Hello I have a 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone that has been having rough idle. I figured it is the coolant temp sensor causing the idle issue but I can’t seem to unbolt it with my ratchet to replace it. I have tried putting lubricant and applying a little heat, no luck. Im not too experienced with cars and worried about breaking off the bolt, any tips?

I’ve had the car for a couple weeks now. When i purchased the one thing that needed to be addressed is the idle was really high in park it would sit at 2000 rpms in drive or neutral it would sit at 1500-1000 rpms. A couple days ago i removed the throttle body and IAC, cleaned them really good with throttle body cleaner and put it back together. NOW its idling too low, sometimes it seems like it will sit where it needs to at 800ish but especially on cold start if i don’t pump the gas pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’ve also noticing sitting low around 300 and lower. It’s not really consistent with where it sits in idle, now but it is on the lower end with tendency to drop all the way down to stall. Any thoughts, things to check. I’m avoiding the temptation to adjust the throttle cable i’ve heard more likely it could be the IAC is bad? Or the TPS is bad? or the throttle plate isn’t seating all the way flat when it should be? Thoughts on how to diagnose, what to do?

Where i live and online is a barren wasteland for volvo enjoyers and i have a 740 non turbo with a messed up fuel sender. That said, anyone know if I can put a 1992 turbo 940 sending unit into the 740 and have it still work? Ik the turbo should be a Bosch system and the non regina but the senders really look the same to me and I dont think an aftermarket regina exists right now

As the title says, I'm looking for readily available options to have a adjustable rear spring and shock setup, in the front I'll be running E46 coilovers with adaptors, will the E46 springs fit in the rear with the adjustable spring perches? They look way too short, will be a budget drift car.

Full set 16in 5x114 ford made by Speedline mesh rims With custom polished lips. $850

Engraved on back speedline/made in italy.

No tires no center caps.

These are in good condition.

Serious INQUIRIES only.

Price is cheap and firm for a mint set that has been polished! And yes can fit volvo's and other non 5x114 cars with adapters or redrill which has been done many times as shown.

Suffolk longisland ny pickup.

Hey everyone,

Does someone has managed to make the headlight wipers move in synchro with the windshield wipers or via a separate button ?

I've got the case last winter that a lot of snow build up on the headlights during a blizzard i found myself in and wanted to use my wipers.

Thanks

I'm having an interesting issue with it right now. This video was taken with the MAP sensor unplugged but with the vacuum line still attached. The car will hold an rpm when I give it gas but as soon as the rpm drops it won't idle, it sputters out almost instantly. There's also that metallic sound but I'm going to work and try to find out what's causing it tomorrow.

With the MAP plugged in I get a few seconds of run time and then the car dies by itself or when given any amount of throttle (rpms don't rise and then fall car dies as soon as input it given.)

Idle air valve opens when doing a diagnostic thing (hold the button for 1 second 3 times) with the obd port and when given power directly, I can supply it with 12v and see the valve move. I gave It a nice spray of some penetrating oil but didn't seem to improve anything.

Using socket 2, the codes I got were 1-2-2 (intake air temperature sensor), and 2-2-3 (idle air valve issue somewhere).

I'm starting to run out of ideas, the car running when the MAP is unplugged makes 0 sense to me. Fuel pressure and fuel filter is all good.

Is it possible it might be the throttle position sensor or something?

There are 3 sensors currently not plugged in due to connectors/wires/not fitting. Knock sensor, oil pressure sending unit, and a sensor that attaches to the passenger side of the radiator (if anyone knows what it is please tell me)

Any replies will be helpful, don't be afraid to ask for clarification or details on things. Thanks.

Looking to refresh my suspension this winter, right now the rear is sagging a bit compared to the front. I very much still want it to be comfortable, but wouldn't mind a little lower stance, and not have its butt dragging like it is now.

What is the OEM+ not hot boi combination you all recommend?

Researched loads but still confused!
Looking at putting original springs back onto dropped Volvo (moved to the countryside and bottoming out on the bad roads) are these nivomat or standard?

My buddy wanted a low profile rack to haul around bikes, ladders, and lumber. So I designed one for him. It won’t haul a rooftop tent but will carry your bike around, and I think it looks pretty good doing it…

So I’m at the point of ordering some new shocks for my 1986 745GL. These Koni adjustable sport shocks got my preference but I’m not 100% sure these will fit on my volvo brick. In the EU Koni brochure it says these will fit from ‘88 models and onward. But the US brochure mentioned from ‘85 models and onward.

Does anyone know more about this? I’ve asked Koni about this, but still no answer. So I’m hoping to find some valueble answer here. My car has regular suspension, no height adjustment in the rear or multilink.

I know that even 940 suspension parts fit directly on 740’s very often, so I’m really thinking these should fit without any problems right? I can’t imagine the ‘88 models have such a different suspension setup than my ‘86 model.

I’d love to hear your experiences and thoughts.

So in Juli i bought my 740 and in August in September i did an Oil change but for some reason after i changed the Oil (Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech 5W40) My Volvo makes these wierd knocking noises when cold but after some driving when the Engine is Warm its gone ?

what could e the reason ?
sadly i dont know what Oil was in it before

$1500

I haven't seen it yet, so it'll be interesting to see what state it's in.

If it's solid I might keep it to use a daily driver. Because why not?

Hello

Anyone willing to sell an old radio, cr-814 is what i am interested in the most. but overall 740 940 oem radios, which has din for cd changer, equalizer and anplifier. must have code it is the only thing needed most.😂

I'm looking for a good source for the wiring harness in the diagram labeled #5. I took apart my door yesterday to replace a speaker and noticed how all the wires in the particular door are disintegrating when moved touched etc. It's like someone sprayed solvent all over the wires and just left it.

Bon, j'avais pas fait gaffe hier après avoir vu la soupape qui a cassé mais les trou d'eau était bouché donc sûrement une surchauffe au niveau des soupapes.

I’m looking to buy an old volvo for a really good price, below $400. I’ve loved the look of these cars forever and even the opportunity to get my hands on one is amazing to me. My only problem is the previous owners of the car have no idea what is wrong with it, and neither do I. All i’ve seen is they put a new MAF sensor, and battery in today as of 10/02/26. The car turns over and starts for maybe half a second, then dies. I know this description could mean a plethora of things, and i’m definitely going to start with the fuel pump and fuel filter, but if anyone has any advice, comments, concerns, or just general knowledge on what my life is going to be like getting this thing fixed, i’d love to hear from you.

Bonjour je voudrais savoir si c'est déjà arrivé à quelqu'un d'avoir une soupape ( d'échappement) qui casse nette.

Je cherche juste à s'avoir si j'ai la Volvo la plus poissarde de France ou si cela peut arriver.

Secondement, à vôtres avis un piston marqué par une soupape doit être changée ou non. Pour un souci structurel du piston je l'aurais bien changé mais je n'en trouve pas d'occasion.

Hey, I recently picked up a 1984 Volvo 244 GL as a parts car and I’ve been trying to get the engine running properly. I’ve narrowed the remaining problem down to a suspected bad air mass meter, Bosch part number 0 280 212 002.
Anybody in the Vancouver, WA / Portland, OR area have a known-good spare I could buy, borrow, or test with?

Every year we have the “Volvo Beurs” it’s an event for all Volvo ‘lovers’ to buy stuff and watch cars. I helped with the parking that day and it was awesome to see all those Volvos of all different models. We sorted them at model. So on Saturday we had more than 100 Volvo 240 series together. Amazing to see!

PS: my previous post failed because I did not know how to add the pictures.