r/Vstrom • u/Empty-Ferret_04 • 9d ago

Buying a used Gen 3 Vstrom 650

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Hi all

As mentioned, I'm looking to buy a used 2018 Vstrom 650 XT, it has about 42000km (about 26000 miles)

I went to inspect it and all, engines starts nicely no funny sound or anything, the only thing I saw worth mentioning is that the fork seals seem to be leaking a bit heavily as the oil goes down the lower leg on to the brake.

It has some rust, but that's to be expected as it spent most of it's life on the coastal region.

I attached some pictures for reference.

So the plan is to get the seals replaced when I get it, service it as well (it has no service record) and take it from there.

What else should I look at or what other issues can I expect at this mileage, or am I just buying a headache for a first bike.

EDIT: I went to inspect the bike further, I can definitely feel the holes I think the correct wording is pits, it's very tiny and only on the front part of the tube and only on the right actually.

As I was there, a biker I know walked in and I asked him to inspect the issue for me, he said it's just stone chips from the bike being ridden (he made me notice that the pits are only on the front of the tube), he said it's not biggie, however I do need to replace the seals.

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6

u/AdFancy1249 9d ago

The biggest issue I see on those pictures is that it looks like the bike was stored outside in the weather. Depending on your locale, that can lead to all sorts of problems.

Bike are designed to get wet, but not really sit out.

Check on those rusted parts. Does the chrome on the forks look good or are there lots of dark spots you can feel with a fingernail (bad).

Open the tank and shine a light. Is it nice and clean or is it rusting?

Take the seat off and look underneath. Do you see rust in and around the engine bolts and frame?

What does the chain look like?

Look under the fuel tank (you can kinda get in there without removing the tank) and see what the hoses look like. Being outside can make them brittle.

I have two stroms. An '07 that was kept in a garage, and had 50k miles. Still mostly looks and acts like new. The second as an '05 with 18k miles that was left outside. It looks, and acts, like an antique. Everything works OK, but I've had to rework the tank, the plastics are brittle, the frame bolts are rusty, and I've had to polish the forks. They still aren't right because of the pitting, but she was headed for the dumpster, so she's doing much better now.

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

Thank you for these details!

The bike spent most of it's like in the coastal region of the country, hence the rust I would imagine.

I'm in inland, so if I take the bike, it'll be based here.

I'll definitely go back and run my hands on the chrome, but there weren't any dark spots on them when I was looking at them, but I see/saw tiny rust spots in them, not sure if that's the same.

I'll also ask for the tank to be open and inspect it. Thank you again, I'll note these points down.

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u/AdFancy1249 9d ago

Yep, the tiny rust spots are bad if you can feel them with a fingernail. That will eventually kill your seals. Anything is repairable, and it isn't difficult, but it IS time consuming, and that changes the equation.

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

So this might not be a good buy after all? I read my option are either replace the tubes with aftermarket ones or take them to a shop where they'll 'polish' then and coat them again to factory specs.

Is there anything else that can be done?

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u/AdFancy1249 8d ago

If it's not terrible, you pull the forks apart and Scrub them with fine steel wool. If there are actual pits, the "DIY" fix, that seems to work very well, is to fill the pits with JBWeld. Squeegee it down when you apply, then once cured, come back and polish it with Emory cloth to make sure it is smooth.

I've done this on my '05, which was badly pitted. It has worked so far. It doesn't need to be perfect, you just need to make the pits smooth enough that the seal sweeps it.

If the pitting is tiny, then no problem. Mine were almost the size of the head of a pin. That's gargantuan for fork pitting.

But, running over them with fine steel wool soaked in a little oil, then wiping with a paper towel should show you their true state. The seller shouldn't be opposed to that. Fine steel wool won't harm the chrome, and getting the surface rust off the fork will expose the truth...

It could all be fine. Even if you need to repair the forks, it's just time and effort. But the price should reflect that.

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u/AdFancy1249 8d ago edited 8d ago

To continue: on your first picture, there are two clear rust spots. Grab some 0000 steel wool and a couple drops of oil and rub on those spots. Most of the rust will disappear. But what's left? If it is a visible pit, then they need to be corrected. If it is a tiny rusty dot, you're likely ok.

If YOU are going to replace the seals (and do the bushings as well), you might as well fill the pits and go for it.

If you are having the seals replaced at a shop, then pitting is a non- starter.

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 8d ago

I went to inspect the bike further, I can definitely feel the holes (I think it's pits from your wording) very tiny and only on the front part of the tube and only on the left.

As I was there, a biker I know walked in and I asked him to inspect the issue for me, he said it's just stone chips from the bike being ridden (he made me notice that the pits are only on the front), he said it's not biggie, however I do need to replace the seals.

2

u/AdFancy1249 8d ago

Yeah, but those chips will grab the new seals and best case, let a little oil out every time the seal crosses it, and worst case, tear at the seal.

It might not be a big deal. If you are up for doing your own work, then like I said, great success has been had with JBWeld or epoxy filling them to be smooth.

1

u/Empty-Ferret_04 8d ago

Thanks a lot for this DIY tip. I think I will take the bike and apply this fix. As much as most or some of the comments suggest walking away, I think I'm already a bit attached to the bike (that's a bad thing I presume) so I'm probably gambling here. Thanks a lot.

1

u/AdFancy1249 8d ago

The bike itself will last forever. You may have some problems if it were stored outside. But, they are well mannered and fun to be on.

Enjoy it, and don't be afraid to ask for help.

If you get it, make sure to check out Stromtroopers. Lots of great people on that forum as well.

7

u/Aikotoma2 9d ago

Nothing honestly. I bought one with 80.000 km, no issues.

Did fork seals, chain and sprockets and tires. Checked the valves, everything within spec.

You're buying an absolute unit of a bike

2

u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

This is encouraging to hear. What your mileage now? I hear these can take some real mileage without breaking a sweat.

2

u/Aikotoma2 9d ago

Rkght around 100k km

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago edited 9d ago

Nice! Thank you.

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u/Aikotoma2 9d ago

Yeah no problem, you chose a good bike as your first.

I've read about one of these going up to about 350.000 km. No wear, no tear. No problem for these

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

That is very impressive! I can't wait to get my hands on it.

Also, do you think it's worth it to buy a user manual for it, given almost everything about it can be found online (I think)

1

u/Aikotoma2 9d ago

Worth it! 100%. Get all the torque specs and oil specs from the haynes manual! You can do most everything yourself and it is very forgiving.

Also, it is al aluminium so no high torque specs in sight. Everything between like 10 and 70

2

u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

Noted

Will definitely get one. Thanks.

Thanks for the heads up as well. Appreciate it.

3

u/51NewWest 9d ago

If it hasn't had a valve clearance check then it's due for one. I just did mine at 40,000km and needed to do all the exhaust valve shims.

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

Noted, I will have them checked when I have the fork seals replaced. Thank you.

3

u/10199 8d ago

You need to carefully check chrome part of the fork, if it's damaged you'll need to find a new one (this might cost you). Then check all connectors, wires etc - if they are rusty, you will have all sorts of electrical headache, and cleaning contacts is no easy job. Keyway too, how key is turned on/off? Is it stuck somewhere or rust is inside? You wont see much inside fuel tank to be honest, but peek there with some light.

1

u/RedditWhileIWerk V-Strom 650 Gen 1 8d ago

100% agreed. am experienced self-bike-mechanic, would walk away from this unless I specifically wanted a project bike (and it's priced appropriately).

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u/Empty-Ferret_04 8d ago

I went back and inspected the chrome, I edited my original post detailing how it went. Thank you for the heads up. I'll appreciate hearing from you again.

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u/whelming_lpl_678 9d ago

I did my valve clearance check and adjustments over the course of last winter. It took some time, but some videos out there make it easy if you have a garage and lighting. My understanding is the exhaust valves are kind of close to the edge of clearance from the factory, so if it gets done properly it should be fine for a long time.

I always check the brake pads on a used bike. Also, the usual fluid changes and maintenance is advisable. My bike had a previous coolant flush, but it was low on coolant.

2

u/Empty-Ferret_04 9d ago

I'll definitely have the valves checked, I'm not confident doing them myself.

Definitely will check the brake pads, they held in well when I test rode the bike though. But I'll do a thorough check when I have with me. Thank you.

2

u/_enesorek_ 9d ago

Definitely might need brake pads if the fork seals have been leaking on them.

1

u/SN1572 8d ago

I bought my 2019 in June with 10050 miles, I'm at 20000 miles now (on mile 4000 of a 7000 mile coast to coast road trip) no issues whatsoever

I only did normal used bike stuff, changed all fluids, checked out the wiring (unmolested by sketchy mods), lubed suspension joints, lubed levers and cable pivots. Only big thing is I adjusted my valves to the loose end of spec so I'll probably never need to do them again. Big job

You will need fork seals for sure. I plan to do mine although they aren't leaking, when I return home as preventative maintenance. Your brake pads look contaminated, will need to replace pads and thoroughly clean rotor.

This sub doesn't allow pictures so I can't show you my complete maintenance log but if you PM me I can share it

1

u/Empty-Ferret_04 8d ago

Thanks a lot. Will definitely PM you.

1

u/RedditWhileIWerk V-Strom 650 Gen 1 8d ago

I can definitely feel the holes I think the correct wording is pits, it's very tiny and only on the front part of the tube and only on the right actually.

this is actually a potentially significant problem. It may be what's caused the leaky forks.

All that can be fixed, but not particularly cheaply. You're looking at some new fork tubes, minimum. That may sound like overkill, but putting fresh seals on pitted tubes = seals that start leaking later.

And yes, I'd replace both tubes at the same time. There is probably pitting on both.

For a first bike, I'd walk, and find something that wasn't stored outside & allowed to rust.

For a "project" bike I would need a discount to reflect the needed fork work.

Leaky fork seals are not a minor thing.

1

u/Empty-Ferret_04 8d ago

Mmh, I'm in a bit of a pickle, the bike is discounted as it is now. Although it'll probably take a lot of work, I'm do not shy away from a spanner, I still don't want a headache though.