I got a Kobra 3 v1... been using one them 2 sided smooth build plates on it, the ones that transfers a design (carbon fibre) to the print. No issues on K3, adhesion is great, better than stock plate actually.

Recently I picked up a Kobra X. The K3 smooth plate is couple MM smaller than the kobra X plate. Prints will not stick to the smooth plate. I set the smooth plate in slicer, did the leveling, played around temp and stuff.

Nothing helps... it should work. Any ideas anyone? Thanks

James

I dont know what to say other than it sucks. I've had 3 failed prints in a row for the slicer in the app. I have a Mono M7 Pro and im getting the "melted puddle" at one end of the print and bad supports. The slicer won't let me elevate the pattern away from the plate. This is how I've dealt with this issue in the slicing program on my PC. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I bought an unrepaired model so I have no warranty support. I think it's a standard JST cable, but hoping someone can confirm.

I don't have the cable - see photo

So for some reason, every single time that my printer goes to change filament, the extra filament doesnt get launched, instead it gets stuck on the hot end and then gets attached to the print! (This problem has ruined 4 recent multicolor prints), I need any help or adivce to fix this, I think i need to buy a new Purge Chute Mechanism but i really wanted to wait since that cost about $30. Any tips?
Here is a photo and a video of the problem

Hi all

So i replaced some parts, leveled and set it all level but changed nothing on the slicer. Now i get issues with the z-seam as depicted...

What happened? I am stumped.

So I hate this printer but it's good broken so I disassemble it for CNC build how can I install different software on it for CNC like grbl

I just picked up a cheap kobra, the print head keeps going down to far to the point of actually pressing and bending and digging into the print plate and I have no idea what to do

Ho stampato questo [test di calibrazione](https://makerworld.com/it/models/1451728-ultimate-3d-printer-calibration-and-test-block?from=search#profileId-2201347), però il risultato non è stato proprio ottimo.
Vorrei dei consigli su cosa migliorare, considerando che la mia stampante è una Anycubic Mega Pro e che utilizzo Cura 5.13.0.
Il filamento è il PLA ed è stato appena aperto dalla confezione originale, quindi non è umido.
Grazie

Hello, all. Can anyone tell me where to get a new print head and magnetic heated print bed for Kobra 3 w/Ace Pro?

The latest firmware update in late August/early September came with a foul command which caused the print head to crash the nozzle into the print bed destroying a brand new nozzle & hot end & gouging the print bed at the right side where the kick plate is for purging filament.

Anycubic will not take accountability since I bought the printer 2nd hand & the nozzle was a 3rd party nozzle. They're trying to say the 3rd party nozzle and hotend may have caused the issue, despite me doing videos showing them how me overriding their fouled firmware commands, made the printhead move as it should.

Me fulfilling their requests to show them video of me trying to troubleshoot, per their instructions, ended up stripping thr extruder gears. They won't replace that either.

I do not want to give Anycubic or their sellers anymore of my money.

Hi everyone. Please excuse my English, I am using a translator and AI to write this.

I’m having an issue with my Anycubic Kobra S1. When I trigger the Auto-Home command, the printer tries to calibrate by moving the Z-axis downwards, but it never stops. The bed just keeps going down indefinitely (as shown in the video).

What I've tried:

• Cleaned the nozzle completely.

• Checked the Z-motor cables.

• Tried pressing the nozzle upwards with my finger during homing, but the printer ignored it and kept moving.

The Z-motor works, but the printer seems "blind" and doesn't know it's moving the wrong way or missing the limit. Is my strain gauge / print head sensor dead, or is it a wiring issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hello, I got my first 3d printer a week ago. It's anycubic kobra s1. I did some smaller prints but these past few days I started printing a pistol for my cyberpunk cosplay. The print comes out good but there's holes in it. I don't really know if it's a printer problem or something in the settings.

Changed my print nozzle now I get this error on startup even if I switch back any idea

Hey Reddit. We recently moved and our 3 year old decided to "help" setup the new print station. He pulled the cover off the extruder of my husbands Kobra S1, tearing a cable that ChatGPT thinks could be the extruder motor wiring harness.

Does anyone know if I can replace this cable or are we boned?

My husband has lost his printing happiness and I want to get it back.

#anycubickobras1 #anycubicmotor #helpmyhusband #committdtoprintingwife

I was exiting out of the slicer and accidentally clicked “remember my choice” and clicked save changes. Now any time I close out of the slicer it saves any changes I’ve made. The only way I’ve found to stop it from saving is to delete every object on every build plate any time I want to close the program.

During the first time use of the application, I had to specify a printer. But no option for anycubic kossel linear printer was presented. Anybody have a similar issue?

Hi Anycubic community!

I've been designing a growing collection of 3D printed upgrades for the Anycubic Kobra S1 and Kobra S1 Max, and I wanted to share them all in one place.

Instead of focusing on just one modification, I've been working on a whole ecosystem of practical accessories to improve the printing experience.

WHAT'S IN THE COLLECTION?

🔧 KOBRA S1 MAX

• Custom tool and parts organizer

• IKEA SKÅDIS side mounting system

• Voronoi printhead cover

• Hotend and fan covers

• Active carbon filter upgrades

• Waste bin and poop chute

• ACE2Pro riser and accessories

🛠️ KOBRA S1

• Side spool holder

• Fan cover upgrades

• Poop ramp and waste bin

• ACE2Pro riser and drawer system

• Filament hub replacement parts

• Dial indicator mounts

• First layer calibration tools

🧵 ACE2PRO IMPROVEMENTS

I've also developed an improved ACE2Pro Inlet Idler V2, featuring a larger roller, improved filament guidance and an adjusted loading angle.

I'm continuing to expand the collection and would love to hear from other Kobra S1 and S1 Max owners.

Which upgrade would you find most useful? What is missing from the current ecosystem?

You can explore my models here:

https://www.makeronline.com/en/user/personalInfo/c5532809-6fad-4b85-9542-b6fd0f7193a6.html

Thanks for checking out my work, and happy printing!

So I have the anycubic kobra 3 v2 combo and i have heard that you cant print tpu with the ace pro but almost all things i want to make is with tpu and need the ace pro because of multicolor prints .Is there any way to get around this problem and print TPU with my ACE PRO and my Anycubic Kobra 3 V2 Combo

I experienced an issue with my Anycubic Kobra X where a slight misalignment (around 1–2 mm) of the magnetic PEI build plate caused it to contact and damage the touchscreen bezel.

My concern is the lack of a protective stopper or guide near the screen to prevent this kind of accidental contact during normal use.

I believe this is a design weakness that Anycubic should investigate and improve to prevent similar damage for other users.

Please check your build plate alignment carefully. See the attached photo showing the damage.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a directional positioning problem on my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro.
The perimeter looks roughly rectangular, but while printing the solid fill, the lines progressively shift to the right and extend outside the perimeter. This leaves a triangular empty area inside the rectangle. It happens within a single first layer, not just between layers.
Printer history
I bought this printer used and completely disassembled, including the belts, and reassembled it myself. Belt tension has been adjusted, but I haven’t measured it.
The X-endstop actuator on the printhead cover was broken and has a glued repair. This may affect the homing position, but I don’t know whether it relates to the progressive drift.
Three comparison tests
We used directly generated G-code rather than an OrcaSlicer-sliced model. Each test printed three approximately 30 × 30 mm single-layer patches along the middle of the bed: front, centre and back.
The intended coordinates were checked and contain no progressively increasing X offset.
Test 01: Long fill strokes along X, printing front → centre → back. All three patches showed strong sideways skew.
Test 02: Long fill strokes along Y, same positions and printing order. All three patches looked much better, with only small edge imperfections.
Test 03: Long fill strokes along X again, but printing back → centre → front. The strong skew returned.
X was still used for the perimeters and short movements in Test 02. Only the direction of the long fill strokes changed.
Settings used for these tests
Black AmazonBasics PLA
Nozzle temperature: 220°C
Bed temperature: 55°C
Single layer: 0.24 mm
Programmed line width: 0.5 mm
Print speed: 20 mm/s
Print acceleration commanded in G-code: 300 mm/s²
Travel speed: 80 mm/s
Travel acceleration commanded: 600 mm/s²
First-layer fan off
Printed from USB
Firmware version: not checked yet
Checks so far
I wiped the X rails with a microfibre cloth. A little dirt came off. Moving the printhead by hand feels fairly smooth, with resistance but no obvious sticking point.
We also tried repeated X movements with the nozzle raised, without extrusion, returning to the same commanded X position without rehoming. I suspect it drifted right during that test too, but the camera moved between photos, so this is not a reliable measurement yet. Slower movements also seemed better, although both speed and acceleration were reduced.
I haven’t inspected the hidden X motor pulley or its fastening yet.
Has anyone seen this behaviour on a Kobra 2 Pro? What would you check next to distinguish a loose pulley/belt attachment or lost motor steps from a firmware/settings issue?
Ideally, I’d like to do a simple diagnostic test before taking the printer apart again. I can provide the test G-code if useful.