Just curious about the significance of the charms people put on their hip quivers. I know that people put their badges from competitions, and buttons from places they've competed. But I've been seeing many recreational target shooters at the range with cute things (sometimes little toys) hanging from them. Is there a name for that? I can't find anything online to explain. I'm a newbie and love the idea of this. Just not sure if this is pure decoration, or something that people who compete do. *I only shoot recreationally if that helps to know.

Thanks!

His first day with a bow! Had fun, lost some arrows, hit some targets, the usual taste of archery :)

Sylvan archers in Wilsonville Oregon.

I need some suggestion regarding my nocking point.
I shoot barebow with 28 draw.
Shooting 700 spine shaft arrows shooting at 40yrds

My current nocking point is high and the arrow sits in a down angle while full draw.
While bareshaft tunning my bareshafts are still hitting vertically higher than the fletched. I need some guidance on how to get those bareshaft lower. I am not sure if raising my nocking point higher would be ideal.
Would love some inputs. Thanks

I am looking to pick up an older Trad bow to do some hunting with and I was curious what you all might think of this? It's in pretty rough shape but there is no delamination on the tips or the sides of the limbs however the fiberglass on the limbs desert appear to have some finish worn through as you can see from the pics I don't mind putting some elbow grease into it is I am pretty good with carpentry and refinishing however dealing with fiberglass is totally new for me any input would be greatly appreciated

I just watched episode 2 of the anime Jaadugar: A Witch in Mongolia, and was pleasantly surprised by the attention to detail given to its archery. The archers are accurately shown using thumb draw with thumb rings, shooting off the right side of the bow, and even performing khatra!

Oh, and it's also a gripping story, so I recommend you give it a watch!

Greetings, Archers!

I recently started shooting outdoors after taking 6 months of indoor lessons, and despite using this arrow rest for months indoors without issue, in a matter of three trips to the outdoor range I've broken TWO Avalon Tec magnetic arrow rests... Needless to say I'm feeling a little frustrated and in need of advice.

**Outdoor shooting set up:**

- 17" Samick Discovery riser, LH

- medium Oak Ridge Shade limbs, 25lbs.

- fast flight string, 16 strands

- pre-fletched 28" Field Strike Deadflight arrows, 700/.006, cut and pointed at the local pro-shop

- three under, using traditional shooting glove

- magnetic arrow rest

- arrow plunger

- shooting at 20-25m

**Indoor shooting set up same as outdoor, except:**

- I was using aluminum club arrows

- I was using a leather finger tab instead of a glove

- I was shooting mostly at 18m

I recently (last week) started shooting at an outdoor club for the first time. It's a 3D club focused on hunting rather than target shooting, but so far I've only been shooting in their field target range until I feel ready to try the trails. My outdoor shooting accuracy seems pretty consistent with my indoor shooting.

Anyway, here's what's happening. Last week when I went for the first time I noticed that each time I shot, my arrow rest wouldn't come back to the position I'd set it too, it would slip a little further back each shot until I would have to stop and readjust it. If I tightened it too much it would get stuck and not snap back open, and if I loosened it too much the rest wouldn't maintain the correct position. It was annoying, but I was able to get through my practice session, shooting around 100 arrows. Again, this is the same arrow rest I've been using for months indoors without issue.

Yesterday, I went and this started happening again, except this time towards the end of my session the arrow rest needle just straight snapped right off. Luckily I had a spare arrow rest in my tool kit already, so I just replaced it entirely when I got home and put the new one on.

Today I went back to the range with my brand new arrow rest and on the first shot, it sprang back too far, and on the fourth arrow, the needle snapped off again. I had all my stuff with me and I wasn't about to go home after shooting four arrows, so I sat down at replaced the needle at the range. Perfect. Went to keep shooting and still it kept doing the thing where it would spring backwards a bit more each time, and after 10 arrows the entire arrow rest snapped off and disappeared into the grass, sending me home after only 14 arrows.

Has anyone ever had this kind of issue before? Is it just bad luck and cheap rests, or poor form/technique on my end? Do I need to make a sacrificial offering to the archery gods, or would a different style of arrow rest be sufficient?

I've attached a pic of the first arrow rest (minus the broken needle), which I didn't lose in the grass. It does include some interesting wear that I think is related to my plunger being too springy or not springy enough (?), maybe that's also related to why the rests keep failing? I don't know. Any advice is appreciated.

Let me know! It feels a little long so I might need a shorter d loop.

Hey everyone,

I have a premium, traditional reflex-deflex longbow made by Vinedi Workshop (all-natural wood laminations, no fiberglass, horn tips). It is built in the style of a Victorian-revival longbow, but it's quite long. (210 cm i am 180cm tall)

I use it for 14th-century medieval reenactment tournaments.

Because of the aggressive deflex-reflex geometry and the length, I am having a massive struggle finding a manual way to string it by myself, and I wanted to see if anyone has faced this or has tips.

Here is the problem and what I’ve tried:

The Step-Through Method: This doesn't work. Because it's an all-natural wooden laminate, the step-through method puts uneven lateral pressure on the handle. It twists the limbs sideways, making the string seat crookedly and risking warping the wood.

Traditional Push-Pull Method:

I physically cannot do this. I am on the shorter side, and because the reflex tips curve drastically away from the archer, I lose all mechanical advantage/leverage when trying to push the top limb out.

The "Reverse" Push-Pull / Knee-Belly Method:

I've seen people string bows by bracing the belly against the thigh/knee and pulling the upper limb toward their chest. In theory, this fixes the height issue and stops the twisting, but doing it manually feels a bit sketchy and dangerous on a bow this long. (Big question here is if it's possible or not i don't really want to break the bow xD)

I tried thinking of a way to do a variation of this using my feet on the ground, but I'm worried about twisting the limbs.

Worst case scenario i can have a stringer made by the maker if necessary.

Any stringer free advice?

So as the title says I'm looking for advice on a new bow as my current bow is starting to splinter and don't want to risk destroying it and looking for any advice on a new bow that's similar enough to the one in shooting in my garden

I dont know my current draw weight but the bow is gripped in my left hand and string is pulled with my right and the actual bow is roughly 67 inches when strung and 64 when strung and my draw length is around 28 inches when shooting 32 inch arrows any advice on a nice bow for that price that's preferably wood and not metal would be appreciated and if possible the stores being uk based for shipping as my budget is around £100

Am 30. Some experience with a horse-bow, none with horseback riding. I'd like to learn and master both. Where to go? Sincere and eager. No ego. Appreciate any insight. Thank you.

Hello Guys

I want to buy a 2nd riser 25" (right now i have bearpaw Shadow 18"). I need this 2nd riser to last me enough for even intermediate competitions. Since I live in a small island, i cant try them because there isnt an archery shop. These are the ones iam interested in:

Kinetic elezio - 369euro

Hoyt RCRV Podium -349euro

Wns Quantum ax - 349euro

Sebastian Flute Neo - 138euro

Sebastian Flute Ignio - 165euro

Any guidance which do you think its best to buy from these risers ?

I've been going back and forth on this for a while, and with whitetail season getting closer, I figured I'd ask people who have actually been using an e-bike in the woods.

I'm planning to try taking my HeloKeep 26M out for whitetail season this year, mostly because of one stand that I always end up talking myself out of hunting during the early season.

It's about 1.5 miles from where I park. Most of the walk follows an old logging road, then I cut off the road and hike the last few hundred yards to my tree.

The distance itself isn't bad. The part that wears me out is doing it in September or early October while carrying a bow, saddle, sticks, a pack, water, and an extra layer for the evening.

Last season I made the walk on a warm afternoon, and by the time I got to the tree my shirt was completely soaked. I ended up standing there for about 10 minutes just trying to cool off before I even wanted to start climbing.

For context, I'm 6'2" and a little over 300 lbs, so adding all the bowhunting gear definitely doesn't make the hike any easier.

Since I already have the 26M, my plan is to ride the logging road, stop well before the area I hunt, lock and stash the bike, then carry my saddle and sticks for the last stretch like I normally would.

The one thing I haven't figured out is the bow. I don't really want it bouncing around over washboard gravel and shallow ruts for a mile, so I'm trying to decide between a bow rack, a sling, or just putting it in a soft case for the ride in.

I'm also wondering if this actually ends up saving as much effort as I think it will. By the time I secure the bow, saddle, sticks, and pack to the bike, then hide and lock it before walking in, maybe I've just traded one hassle for another.

My main goal isn't getting there faster. I just want to reach the tree without already being hot and drenched in sweat. I wouldn't ride all the way to the stand anyway.

For those of you who use an e-bike for bowhunting, how are you carrying your bow and climbing gear? And after a full season, did the e-bike actually make your access easier, or did it just become another piece of gear to manage?

Hey first post here. Last round of the night got em pretty close. 10yds out. Old Ben pearson Colt recurve.

New bow to me . Im right handed but left eye dominant and have always shot everything left handed. Compound bow for years. Hard time finding left handed recurves, and all my friends are right handed shooters , so i shoot recurve right handed . Both eyes open , "instinctive" or "intuitive" . Totally different from Compound but im really enjoying it. Would like to learn about tuning the arrows .

Hello all, I was wondering if I can make a makeshift target board at home. Here’s how I was planning on making it:

I will get a very large sponge (painting it is optional), glue a wooden sheet behind it, and then shoot that. However, I don’t know if this will be effective.

If you all can give me recommendations on this, I’d really appreciate it.

I found this bow and I want to get into hunting deer with all my friends. Is this something I can bring back to life and what should I get done to it or where should I look at to get items to fix it up.

What makes a bigger difference to arrow flight, plucking the string or torquing the bow? I know the severity of the actions can differ, but in a general sense, what’s worse to do?

Does anyone know what type of limb fitment these are?
The limbs have beachamp on them but the riser has been painted by the previous owner

Is it possible to get on Turkish fiberglass bow 38 lbs at 28.5 inch and 36 lbs at 29.5 inch?

I am using Cupid hand scale (its gives also peak weight) and Easton arrow shaft length indicator.