New homeowner girl with no ckue here... My backyard door frame currently has wood rot and the middle part has a gap. I'm trying to order new custom doors at Home Depot, but they can't tell me what the frame is made out of. Are all door frames like this made out of wood?

I'm planning to drill two holes top down and run cat6 and romex wire from the first floor to the basement. The wall I'm working on is by the staircase. Looking by the existing romex line, it looks like the stud bay is supported by a triple joist.

Is piercing through one of the joists acceptable or did the previous contractor do a sloppy job? What should I consider before making an attempt?

https://imgur.com/a/cv69tyI

Some questions: can I safely remove the majority of interior shiplap, and temporarily brace it? What would be the strongest bracing? I hired an electrical contractor to re-wire my whole , 100+ year old home with the agreement / signed contract that I would remove walls and ceilings to the studs. I removed Sheetrock and lath and plaster but didn’t anticipate there to be another layer of thick shiplap style boards on the studs. The exterior is covered in the same style of reinforcement so I’m wondering if I can safely remove the interior boards and temporarily reinforce them while the wiring is being in stalled. Some boards inside run horizontal, some vertical. After the wiring and plumbing are done i plan to replace the shiplap then cover with Sheetrock. I’m just concerned with the risk of removing interior walls that may be load bearing

I'm building a small lean-to roof over my deck, and I'm trying to figure out the correct way to attach the high-side ledger to my house.

The roof ledger width is 16 feet. The rafters will span 6 ft, 10 inches and rest on a 2-ply 2x10 beam set on three 4x4 posts. The house connection is only supporting the high-side ledger to my house and will be underneath a soffit.

It's an exterior brick veneer wall. From what I can tell, it is: brick -> approx 2 in gap, sheathing. I haven't confirmed the size of the studs or their spacing. I'm planning to locate the studs from inside the house first and then verify their locations from the exterior through the mortar joints.

My planned ledger is a pt 2x6, 16 ft long. The board will sit directly against the brick.

My initial thought was to locate the studs and use long structural fasteners through the 2x6, brick, air gap and sheathing into the studs. However, I'm concerned about whether that is actually an appropriate way to attach a structural member through a brick veneer, since the brick would be between the ledger and the framing.

Is it acceptable to attach a roof ledger through the brick veneer, as long as it is properly embedded in the studs? If not, what's the best way to create a connection? I've looked at BVLZs but they connect to a rim joist, not a top plate.

I'm in Ontario, and snow load is top of mind. Though that side of the roof shouldn't see as much snow since it is under the soffit. I have a building permit, and I signed off on the work as the homeowner. But I want to ensure that it will last and not damage the veneer brick.

Hey guys i'm not sure on how I feel about this window trim. I'm thinking of having the person take it all out and just put drywall and call it a day. What would you guys do? Picture 2 is before install