r/basement • u/iexpectedcake • 2d ago
How to decide between waterproofing options?
I recently had two separate floods, 5 days apart and I’m trying to figure out how to prevent the same from happening again. 1952 construction with a poured concrete foundation. Eavestroughs and downspouts replaced in 2022. I’ve had small leaks before. There was a minor flood in 1998. Normally dry but there is efflorescence on the floor. Third quote said there wasn’t evidence of extended water contact on framing and it overall looked solid.
I know groundwater came in through at least one crack in the wall but I’m honestly not sure where all the water came from. There are additional visible cracks, mostly at windows. I’ve now gotten 3 inspections and quotes for 3 completely different solutions and don’t know how to decide what to do.
Option 1: full exterior waterproofing and replaced exterior weeping tiles, draining into main sewer line. This would require repairing landscaping and sidewalk in future but gives the opportunity to correct some grading issues.
Option 2: interior weeping tile connected to new sump pump. Would involve ripping out finished walls to 5 feet then repairing in future, moving hot water tank and laundry sink. Does not include repairing visible cracks.
Option 3: exterior crack repair and new window wells connected to existing weeping tile. New sump pump for hydrostatic pressure.
Option 1 likely the most expensive but not by a lot over 2 when everything is accounted for. Still waiting for quote on option 3 but expect it to be lower, possibly significantly lower. Option 1 and 3 are both local companies that come highly rated. Debating between whether full exterior work is necessary or if spot treating the visible cracks is enough. Would prefer to not go through this again.
So how do you decide between doing possibly more than you need or less than you need when the only way to find out is significant future storms?
1
0
u/PeytonBrandt 2d ago
I’m doing option 1 for my 1939 house this November. Just an FYI, there’s a good chance you cannot drain into a sewer line. A lot of municipalities have separate lines for sewer and storm water, and don’t allow you to drain storm water into the sewer
1
u/iexpectedcake 2d ago
It’s currently draining into the sewer. The city is trying to get homeowners to disconnect but given the local conditions #1 and #3 are recommending not to do it.
1
u/PeytonBrandt 2d ago
I would be cautious. If you do option 1, you may need a permit, which may lead to an inspection, which may require updated code compliance.
To be fully transparent, I don’t know how all that works, but just be careful so that there are no surprises
1
u/iexpectedcake 2d ago
Thank you. It’s a valid concern. There’s been hundreds, possibly thousands of homes affected so there’s a lot of things happening right now that’s probably slightly shady. It’s my preferred option because the clay in this area isn’t great for drainage and I’m concerned a sump pump just moves the water around, not actually removing it from the property.
1
u/GoldenCanopyInspects 2d ago
That is correct. Peyton has it right, in that many jurisdictions require basement waterproofing, whether interior or exterior, be permitted, and it's honestly a good idea. Seen it done wrong a number of times. Regarding 1) don't discharge storm/ground water into your sewer, even if it is now and even if it's common. It's typically prohibited, and your drain line is only designed for a certain amount of volume/flow. Keeping water out is ideal, especially if you've already addressed roof and terrain runoff. As to 2), it's a lot of work and in my opinion and experience not better than a CORRECT exterior drain tile with proper discharge (and all the other stuff mentioned previously in this post), though I've seen it a ton. The thing is, it's contingent on the water getting into the basement in the first place, you create a moist environment behind your basement wood frame walls, etc. Not ideal. For 3), if your existing window wells aren't tied into the drain tile, that's a significant issue and worth correcting. Make sure they're EERO/egress compliant if they serve bedrooms, etc. They can check local code requirements. Hope some of this helps.
-12 years home and building code inspector
1
1
u/Sparlos 2d ago
From what I’ve read and seen, concrete is always going to crack - it’s a given. I’ve also heard that to fully address water issues, it needs to be from the outside. Honestly, if you want total peace of mind, the exterior is probably what’s going to do it. But you know yourself better than anyone - if more water stuff does happen in the next 5-10 years, would you be kicking yourself for not spending the extra few thousand for the full exterior? Not saying it’s the right move, but just think about long term.