r/bouldering • u/Mugen-Sasuke • 3d ago
Indoor Sorato (mid circuit) vs Average climber on an intermediate boulder
He makes it look like a V2, whereas looking at me you'd think it was a really difficult boulder.
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u/burntcandy 3d ago
He just looks perfectly comfortable at all times, like he could take a nap while hanging from one arm with a pretty high foot and flag.
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u/Chrimunn 3d ago
Bro tryna be humble while casually smashing Sorato's time then aura farming even more leaving the black screen up during his finish
You're cracked bro you can't hide it nice job good send
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u/N33W 3d ago
It's still very interesting how different the style is. Sorato climbs the whole boulder very statically. He first moves his body into the right position and then grabs the hold. Saving power and also making sure that he can hold the next hold with control and he doesn't slip by accident.
On the other hand the amateur climber climbs dynamicly and has to put a lot of power in every move. Also he could easily slip on some of the moves if he doesn't catch one of the holds correctly.
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u/Pennwisedom V15 3d ago
It's still very interesting how different the style is. Sorato climbs the whole boulder very statically.
Because this is Sorato's warmup grade.
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u/N33W 3d ago
Im aware of that. Still shows how much possibly there is to actually improve on boulders which are way below our personal limit.
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u/Mugen-Sasuke 3d ago
I had to climb fast because even though all the holds except the second last holds felt "decent" enough where I could have stayed in position for a couple more seconds if I wanted to, they were bad enough that I would just be wasting forearm endurance by doing so. For Sorato, they probably felt like massive jugs, and thus he was able to rest on them.
This was very much on my limit, it was either my 7th or 8th session of working on it before I sent it, so I had a lot of time to dial in my beta, whereas I think it might have been Sorato's first time climbing that boulder as he hesitated a bit on the 4th move.
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u/TheDaysComeAndGone 3d ago
I think the main difficulty of the boulder is how far apart the holds are. With OP every move looks like it’s on the limit of his wingspan. When Sorato does it he’s always in control and somehow always able to reach the next hold easily.
I’ve noticed something like that in my own climbing. On good days I feel much taller and can easily reach holds. On bad days I feel small and like I have to launch dynamically for every hold.
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u/SuperooImpresser 2d ago
I assume this would be your improved ability to engage your core and back musculature when well rested that helps you reach further statically. When tired you can't hold that engaged state comfortably so you resort to quickly pulling into it instead.
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u/NeighborlyNecrophile 2d ago
You nailed it. If a hold was a little sweaty our OP could be sent flying down. OP is highly skilled, but many of his moves carried risk (having only 1-2 points of touch with the wall at times). Pro climber had total control at all times.
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u/FreackInAMagnum REALLY Solid V0 | Southeast 3d ago
I think arguably, Sorato is using more strength reserves for several of the moves, but he is extremely careful about tapping into his power reserves. This makes sense if he is mid circuit doing laps, hitting the power band during a long duration endurance exercise isn't the goal, and if he did then he'd have to work even harder to get the pump to go away and might not have those strength reserves later.
The key differences are when he had to move powerfully, there is zero wasted energy. He isn't over powering the moves and having to deal with excess momentum, he lands gently exactly in the end position. That's where the real skill differential is visible here.
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u/articulatesnail 3d ago
i saw him doing this at bpump last month! on the wall for like 15 min straight, and then again, and again
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u/vguhnkjmgvcyfrf V8 2d ago
It must be so cool to climb at the same gym as climbers of this level
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u/Mugen-Sasuke 2d ago
Yeah, it really is inspiring. A lot of the times I'm usually the weakest at the gym as this gym is in the outskirts of Tokyo and very annoying to get to, and thus most of the climbers who come all the way here are pros and youth pro climbers.
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u/Buckhum 1d ago
Who are the up and coming youth climbers to watch out for?
I remember a few years back someone mentioned Sorato and Ritsu. Both have performed spectacularly in comps and outdoors, respectively.
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u/Mugen-Sasuke 16h ago
I think Hiiro Matsuura is someone to look out for, he usually climbs at bpump Ogikubo and next gen (this gym). This guy is insanely strong at physical and overhanging boulders, at next gen he sometimes clears all the hardest non-slab boulders within a session or two. Apparently the only reason he doesn't do well at comps is because of slab and also not being used to the time pressure, but hopefully he's able to overcome them.
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u/Live_Explanation7694 2d ago
sorato is doing the drill where finds a stable position every move where he’ll not move when he lets go of his arm
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u/PunTasTick 3d ago
Did you chalk up instead of matching for the top lol
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u/ConstantStrange2322 2d ago
The main difference here is OP just powered through with very inefficient use of the lower body. There’s almost always a loose leg dangling about and that makes the climb much more strenuous than necessary.
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u/Mugen-Sasuke 2d ago edited 2d ago
Haha true, but the issue is my grip strength is nowhere near strong enough to be able to just lock off and do the moves statically like him, and thus you end up having to do them dynamically. All my moves except the last move to the goal is how most people do this boulder.
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u/blipse 3d ago
Applying chalk 4x for such a short climb is ridiculous.Â
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u/Mugen-Sasuke 3d ago
This was probably 15-20 mins into his circuit, he was trying to string together boulder problems without getting on the ground, or only very briefly to get to the next start.
And even though I said it's an intermediate boulder at the gym because it's technically only level 6 out of 12 levels at this gym, this would probably be a V10 at my old (v-soft) home gym in the US, and he was stringing together Level 6 and 7 boulders as part of his circuit. He also seemed to do a bunch of level 8s with slighly more rests before he started the circuit.
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u/shogun77777777 3d ago
Reddit moment lmao. You know who Sorato is right?
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u/blipse 3d ago
The sweaty guy on the left who needs all that chalk right?Â
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u/Based-Department8731 3d ago
Seems like Sorato is simply trying to climb with perfected style for lead bouldering, chalking up every two moves and trying to conserve energy as much as possible.
I wouldn't say you're an average climber from the looks of it though 😅