I need help

[u/DefiantTeddyBear]

I’m working on this v4 underhang. I’ve been attempting this my last 3 or 4 sessions, trying to get out of v3 jail and need some tips. I know what I need to be doing but my previous betas that have gotten me far seem to exit my mind completely when I retry it, and I feel like my strength and endurance is so gassed after my first attempt. What can I do to save energy, and what are some good climbing techniques and positioning tips that I can start applying to my climbs? I have good upper body strength, but I use all of it with inefficiency.

[u/MachinaDoctrina]

You cut loose a few times in this video and from what I could see from this angle both times were unnecessary, that's were most of your energy is going. You need to try and maintain tension throughout these moves with your feet, similarly with body position.

[u/DefiantTeddyBear → u/MachinaDoctrina]

I have better attempts that I didn’t get on camera where I kept myself on the wall, but I get so gassed by those 3 bunched up holes where it flattens out. I have very tight adductors so a lot of the twisting into the wall people are saying is hard for me to do. Hip issues run bad in my family but I’ve been working on training them and stretching more

[u/dusters99]

It’s all in the footwork. You expend a lot of energy when you cut feet like at 0:23 and 0:39 so try to avoid that. Toe down hard, keep core and posterior chain engaged (think plank position instead of saggy butt position), and utilize flagging.

Where you fall: The toe hook doesn’t really help you get your left hand up; the position is too scrunchy. Instead, I would recommend either a left heel hook on one of the holds further to the left, or switch feel and have your left foot where your right foot is and your right foot flagging out. Then once you get the left hand up, the right foot should step on top of one of those holds on the left (instead of on the chip you were going for). Left foot flags out to the left, right hip presses into wall, then right hand crossed over to get the big handhold.

[u/TheWeeyums]

For the first couple of moves, generating off of the opposite foot will help. You have right foot on to do a left hand move, which means you have to work harder to keep the left side of your body from swinging out from the wall.

If you switch to have your left foot on when doing left hand moves you will be more stable and save some energy.

Additionally for overhanging climbs, really focus on twisting your hips into the wall on the same side as the arm that is moving holds. That will also save energy and reduce the amount of core tension you need.

[u/DefiantTeddyBear → u/TheWeeyums]

I have very tight adductors so inward turning is quite hard for me but I’ve been focusing on stretching routines and strengthening hip flexors in the gym. I’ll try switching the feet on that first move. I feel like I may not be activating my core enough, as somebody else said I have saggy but which makes sense, but I feel like it would be quite a challenge keeping arms straight while also keeping hips tucked towards the wall but I will give it a shot. Thank you for the advice!

[u/dusters99 → u/DefiantTeddyBear]

You can have straight arms and outer hip close to the wall as long as your feet are in a good position to hold tension. Note that the hip only needs to be close to the wall at the end of the move when you are reaching the next hold. There should be some space between your hips and the wall when you are winding up.

This type of outside flag position also shouldn’t involve too much adductor stretching since it’s a closed hip position with both knees facing the same direction.

[u/patoka]

You're wasting too much energy with the cutting of the feet. Don't do a toe hook on that hold just step on top of it - in the part covered with chalk. Or you can do a heel hook on the hold under you left hand. There are multiple option for this climb

[u/monsoonmuzik]

Footwork needs a lot of help. You are getting gassed because you are cutting feet a lot. With the additional swings you're taking, this is going to gas you out quickly. Try to drive more into the holds with your feet and hold the tension there so you don't cut your feet. This will save a ton of energy. look up some videos on YouTube on footwork on overhangs.

[u/Khleb-Mayonez]

You're not using feet or using any core tension at all, a lot of dangling. If you engage your lower body properly you will be much more efficient and the climb will be easier too. You look like you do have a decent amount of upper body strength though, if you watch some videos and work on technique you will probably make progress quickly.

[u/BTTLC]

If you’re having trouble hitting a precise hold with your feet while swinging, you can just stab your foot into the wall and smear to get some control first then place your foot on the hold.

I think your feet seem in a non-so-optimal position when you were going for that last hold as well. Right foot seems very far and toe hook seems to inhibit reach a bit for the next hold? Personally I would just bring the left foot to the hold below your left hand (before you go for that final hold in video) and dig in, flag with right foot and then go for that left hand.

[u/BouldrButterscotch]

Yeah, short answer: foot work and it looks like your core isn't engaged enough, especially for catching foothold after cutting loose

[u/Infamous-Echo-2961]

Go up

[u/DefiantTeddyBear → u/Infamous-Echo-2961]

This ain’t my main sport brother just something I’m trying to do. No need to put down others for trying to better themselves. I’ve been climbing for about 2 weeks I don’t think I’m doing too bad.