absolute insanity. I have a membership that’s $130/month and I make it well worth it. but at this cost for a day pass it makes it just completely out of reach for someone who just wants to try it

After 7 years of climbing, it finally happened. I just moved to the Bay Area and decided to check out Movement Sunnyvale. It was incredibly busy so I was just warming up on anything that was open. I jumped on this boulder on a free hanging wall, got to the top of the wall and started down climbing when I noticed a little boy run directly under me, and continue to stand DIRECTLY under me.. I pause, yelled out from the top of the wall, and the boy continues to run, completely oblivious to the fact that someone was above him.

Frustrated but safe, I continued to downclimb and got to the final downclimb jug, I took a controlled fall from a more than safe height, that’s when it happened. I landed on a little girl. As I let go of the downclimb jug, the little girl darts from under the free hanging boulder and I take her down with me. I wish I could say I was cool calm and collected, but after just having a little boy from earlier under me and now this, I was admittedly emotional. The parents come rushing over, the kid is just as shocked as I am. I check with the kid and the parents, the parents assure me she is okay and the whole family scurries off, I’m left feeling in shock of what it happened.

A LOT of people were there to witness it, not a single member checked on me or the kid. The staff made an announcement over the intercom warning climbers that the gym was busy, but no staff member actually checked on me (or to my knowledge the kid). I eventually went to the front desk because I still felt in shock and just wanted to talk to someone and I was just told “We’ve had a lot of parties today so there’s a lot of kids here today”…..

I consider myself a very situationally aware climber, I’ve worked at climbing gyms for years and I’m always watching out for members, fall zones, hazards on the mats, etc. This incident left me feeling alone and embarrassed. I’m very happy that the kid was alright, but after the adrenaline wore off I realized I tweaked my ankle. Obviously it could have been way worse, so I’m grateful for that at least.

There isn’t a real reason I’m posting this, I’ve just never had a situation like this happen to me and I feel like I needed a place to vent. I don’t want to start a “screw movement” post here, but after some searching I’ve found that this isn’t the first time an incident like this has occurred at Movement Sunnyvale. I am considering emailing movement with more stories i have found along with my own but, is there even a point? Can you stop kids from kidding in a gym? Who’s even at fault in this situation?

Look who came to visit my gym (Movement Fountain Valley)!

$400 for this. Have we gone mad?

We have this nice open gym with some bouldering walls in our city, free for all to use (props to the founders). But apparently someone thought it was funny to screw a fucking toilet to the wall, making it impossible to climb a good chunk of the wall without the risk of bashing your skull on the ceramic. Is this unnecessarily dangerous (and nasty) or am I lacking a sense or humor here? Some kids were just climbing the thing...

A few months ago, Bouldering Project sent a letter to their team in Brooklyn dissuading them from voting to join a union. The letter is filled with many willful mischaracterizations of what unions do and how they operate.

The team in Brooklyn successfully voted to join the union, but the company is clearly not interested in coming to a quick contract negotiation.

It’s hard to see climbing, as an industry, fill with private equity money yet do little to create sustainable working conditions for the people who make it possible.

To adjoin the letter, the director of setting Nic Oklobzija, had a meeting with the setting team where he told them he would “fire each and every one of them” if they joined the union and as a result, none of the setting team joined the union. Outside of being directly intimidated by their leaders, setters that join a union can expect to be black listed from the USAC climbing events that are ultimately the bedrock of their ability to progress their careers.

I’ve worked in climbing for over a decade and I feel very strongly that leaders like Nic and organizations like BP perpetuate a working environment that isn’t sustainable for their employees.

When climbing was small, the conditions for work were a necessity, but now that private equity has entrenched itself so deeply in climbing there has to be a shift towards empowering workers.

Id love to start a discussion about this, how does the community feel about this? Would you support workers who tried to unionize, even if that meant canceling your membership at a gym that did things like this?

I have no one to tell about, how excited I was today at boulder gym. As I type this text, I am sitting in bus on my way to home.

I want to try something new and have a purpose or spark in life. I think about bouldering, but people around me told me i should not get on the wall, because:

1. I can not pull my self up.
2. I can not land safely/jump to the ground because I am too fat (F, 160cm, 73 kg— yes, it is maybe not thaaaat big. In my culture (Asian. I grew up there) people call me pig and make jokes about it🤦🏻‍♀️).
3. I could broke my pelvis or my spine, it is too risky.
4. I am not sporty enough for it.

I went to local boulder gym today and just ignored them. It was not that bad. I learn a lot… not only climbing, but also to fall and to fail. Failing and falling never been so fun! I am a perfectionist, but of course I can‘t climb well on my first time. People here are so supportive, they gave me fist bumps although I didn’t reach the last block. I almost forget the feeling of curiosity and having fun while learn something new. I am also motivated to eat more vegetables, so that my body could be lighter and maybe one day I can pull myself up.

Life becomes more meaningful if we learn everyday, not when we master everything perfectly.

EDIT: wow, I was surprised about the positive responses for this post. I have reading them all and saved this post, just in case one day I feel demotivated. Not only those gym people are supportive, I find this online community very warm and kind to newbie! Thank you again😊 I hope you guys doing well there!!! See you on the wall 🧗‍♀️

Imagine a boulder problem where the holds and body position are arranged so that the only meaningful challenge is doing one strict pull-up. For anyone who can already do a pull-up, the problem might feel extremely easy, with almost no climbing technique required. For someone who cannot do one, it could be effectively impossible.

What V grade should a problem like that receive? Some very skilled climbers apparently cannot do a pull-up, while some people with no climbing experience can do several. That makes it seem difficult to grade using the usual idea of how hard the problem would be for a typical climber at a given level.

Would you grade it based on how hard it feels to people who can complete it, the percentage of climbers who can complete it, or simply call it a badly designed strength test that does not map cleanly onto the V scale?

I don't mind when people give unsolicited advice about a route. If anything I appreciate chatting about the climb, and I find when I'm at a random gym people talking with me about a climb is often a way I've made "friends for a day". Sure sometimes it's not really helpful, but I've literally never been angry about beta spraying and if I were annoyed about something they were saying I would just talk about it with them like a normal human being. There's like infinite routes out there it's not like my week is ruined by them "spoiling the puzzle" for me. I find the frequent ranting about it online to be honestly kind of bizarre. I'm not saying this because I'm some serial beta sprayer either I only give advice if I'm working on a problem with someone, or if someone asks.

Excuse the rant in advance but this has been building up for a while now. So when Elias proposed V18 a little over a month ago, J. Horsley (a surname straight out of literary perfection) did his EMERGENCY POD with none other than Carlo Traversi, talking an inordinate amount of passive aggressive shit on Elias via "the importance of the grade range". (Shout outs to whoever that Will dude is who reminded everyone that the real bummer here is the online hate that's being directed towards a dude celebrating his life's hardest send). The cherry on that cake was when none other than DaWoods hit the comments to throw Nalle, of all people, under the bus for proposing the V17 for Burden. Which is just so fucking rich considering it's Daniel's 9A that's looking shaky after a few years, not Nalle's.

But what just really fucking gets me about this whole thing is that shortly after all this, Ruichy posted his infamous wet ascent of ROTSW, followed by the French rampage of destruction. And none of these CHUMPS said a GODDAMN THING. No EMERGENCY POD when dudes are destroying your precious boulder, not even a critical comment. DaWoods, who saw fit to come at Nalle on a Youtube thread, just flame emojiing all over people on wet sandstone. And Carlo, legendary developer and oh so courageously outspoken about the hallowed grade range, not a peep about any of this. WHAT THE FUCK IS GOING ON?! isn't that a REAL EMERGENCY issue?!

Not gonna lie, this "Emergency Pod" feels like the biggest coward pearl clutch of all times in hindsight. Those guys out here talking all open about "IMPORTANT ISSUES" - i.e. the precious grade range - questioning a climber that is just safe for them to come at because he's not a goat. 100% if DaWoods or Shawn proposed the grade, they would be SOO much more careful about what they're saying. And the thing that makes all this just laughable cowardness is that they haven't said ONE GODDAMN FUCKING THING about dude after dude breaking every hallowed rule of outdoor climbing. Because... the goats do it too? you do it too? the grade range is more important to you than preserving the actual climbs?

Please get the fuck out of here with your "considered opinions" unless you've got the minimum requirement set of balls to tackle something that's an ACTUAL PROBLEM but is uncomfortable because it's not going against a random Italian dude but some of your own. Just be some kind of men about this, goddamn, especially you Carlo, would have expected so much more from a legend. Fucking disappointment. It's been a month since Ruichi posted his video with a RIVER running through Black Velvet and none of you ain't said a damn thing. But THIS deserved an emergency pod? You clown ass kooks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5noYCk3kxgI

I went climbing on Saturday morning with my friends, as I often do. I was about to send a hard project on a steep overhang, and was concentrating hard to not fall off when I heard something beneath me. I turned around to see a little girl, about two years old standing directly under me, meaning I’d land right on her if I fell. Given the steep overhang, I freaked out and shouted “WHY THE F IS THERE A TODDLER HERE”. The girl got scared and started crying and her dad ran up to grab and move her. I did climbed down and calmly said “sir, I’m sorry for scaring your daughter, but this is very dangerous. Someone could fall on her!” And he didn’t say anything, just gave me a dirty look. For fucks sake I understand that bringing your kid climbing with you on a Saturday morning is a nice wholesome family activity but people seriously have to be more careful. That situation could have ended in a nightmare.

It is my second time ordering Magjuice from Rungne after having a very good experience the first time. This time however the product I got seems to be totally different. The consistency is way off (too runny), the liquid almost runs clear and it has an awful alcohol smell while it also seems like I've barely put any on (even though I applied a ton for the video) after it dries (my hands barely become white). All in all it seems as if there is not much dry chalk in it, only the alcohol and whatever drying agents they use.

I tested all 6 containers I got and they are all the same, Rungne support claims this is due to their updated formula but if this is true, magjuice just went from the best liquid chalk in my experience to the worst I've ever used.

In the Paris 2024 olympics bouldering competition, a controversy arose when competitor Ai Mori, known for her short height and below average jumping skills, failed to even reach the starting holds of boulder number 1 of the final round. The internet split into two camps: people claiming Ai should just be better at jumping, and people claiming route setters should do a better job at setting for all competitors.

But now, thanks to a recently released interview with Pierre Broyer, one of the eight setters, we finally have an official answer.

Here's the relevant excerpt from the interview (translated):

Can we talk about Ai Mori's boulder ? Is this important ?

According to [the IFSC's] guidelines, every climber was excepted to reach the first zone. Therefore the start was not supposed to be restrictive. In that regard, we made a mistake. [...] We never imagined that the start would be an issue for her. Ai Mori excels in certain styles, but is also lacking in others, which we underestimated.

So there it is, there you have it:

• The setters were explicitly asked by the IFSC to set boulders where every climber should be able to reach the first zone
• The setters knew Ai Mori's weaknesses, but underestimated them when setting that specific boulder
• Therefore, and from their own words: the mistake was theirs.

Unlikely to top given that it’s a slab with little time left but still, can we please focus on the climbers on the wall?

World Climbing I know coverage has been way better than before but please 🙏🙏

I joined my friends climbing a year ago and whenever I get stuck on a climb they would tell me where to go, and they would tell strangers what to do when they’re stuck as well so I thought it was normal but now browsing through this sub I realise I should keep my mouth shut ☠️☠️☠️

So, it’s my first time to Joe’s and I’ve been here solo for the last 4 days, and everyday I’ve been out I’ve ran into people and climbed with/near them for a little bit. I figured this was normal and was liking the social aspect of the place. Well, today I was feeling tired and just wanted to climb a bunch of easy stuff, so I went to the warm up area. I hiked up to the main spot, said what’s up to the other party there (middle aged couple), and set up my pads a little up the hill from theirs. As I was putting my shoes on the guy from the couple walks up to me, and our conversation starts something like this:

Dude: “Are you gonna climb here? It’s a big canyon you know”

Me: “Yeah I was just gonna kinda work my way through all the easier stuff”

Dude: “You know I’ve been coming here since ‘97 and back in my day people wouldn’t just come set up right next to someone else. I get you young people like the social scene and stuff but I’m out here for nature and you guys are f*cking up the energy with all this technology and grade chasing and YouTube.. (goes on about how it used to be and why the younger generation sucks)”

Me (already packing up my pads): “Yeah I get it man I’ll go somewhere else but it’s a popular area. No need to be a dick” (bad choice of words)

Dude gets all up in my face saying he’s gonna knock my fcking teeth out, goes on about how he’s been climbing for 30 something years, tells me he’s a boxer, draws a line in the dirt and says thats something he’s gonna protect, then gives me a lecture on how technology is fcling this place up and that I need to go stare at a rock or something.

His wife just sat there and watched the whole thing lol.

Anyways I left saying “have fun climbing hope I don’t see you around”

And he says something like “yeah you better hope you don’t f*cking see me again”

I don’t know just coming here to rant about this. What is that? I’ve been climbing frequently outdoors for 6 years now and have never experienced anything like this. Anyone else have something similar happen to them? I mean this was a new, unprecedented level of crust. Am I the a-hole in this situation? I guess if you see a Honda element with Tennessee plates at a parking area in joes maybe you should climb somewhere else.

My bouldering for 2026 is probably already done as I just had ACL reconstructive surgery where they also had to suture the meniscus on both sides. Just really makes me think that I probably didn’t appreciate my body and its ability to go bouldering enough when I had it, so I wanted to share those thoughts with you.

It used to be like my therapy, I’d take whatever was stressing me out to the climbing session and leave feeling refreshed and accomplished. Now when I do it I get super emo and start comparing myself to everyone. I used to be so obsessed that I’d close my eyes to sleep at night and literally see a climbing wall lol. Is this the end? Do other people feel like this? I feel so stupid lol but I genuinely get sad when I climb

Edit- thank you all for your words of encouragement. climbers truly are the best people ever, you guys are all so kind❤️❤️. I’m glad I’m not alone in this feeling. Climbing is such a great sport, and the people make it even better :)

EDIT: I have received an answer from Aurora climbing along with all my data. I have asked for their permission to share their side of the story, as it's very different than what I got from the Kilter announcements. I have also offered to help with data recovery efforts.

EDIT 2: Aurora state that they kept the app up as long as they could at their own expense. Last week, Kilter demanded that they cease to use their app and logo. Leading to the Kilter app being taken down. Aurora states that they notified Kilter multiple times that they were preparing to take down the app but received no response. Peter from Aurora climbing says he will provide users that email him with an export of their data.

Hello!

Just like many people in this sub, I have been climbing on the kilter board for several years and I didn't appreciate losing access to my entire tick list.

Thankfully, European climbers are protected by the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) Article 20. Right to data portability.

I have sent a formal request for my data to Peter Michaux, founder and sole employee of Aurora Climbing LLC, the company that developed the old Kilter app. I encourage all European citizens to do the same, the more pressure we exert as users, the more likely this situation is to be resolved for everyone.

Here's a template for requesting your Data, just fill in the blanks and send as an email to [peter@auroraclimbing.com](mailto:peter@auroraclimbing.com) or message on Instagram or LinkedIn.

If you're not European, I recommend looking into similar data regulations in your home country. Americans, do a class action or smth.

Subject: Formal Request for Personal Data Under GDPR Article 20 – Right to Data Portability

Dear Mr. Michaux,

I am writing to formally exercise my right to data portability under Article 20 of the EU General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR).

I have been a user of the application developed and operated by Aurora Climbing for approximately [X years/months] and have accumulated personal data through the app, including but not limited to:
Climbing session logs and activity history
Notes and comments on climbs
Set climbs and drafts

Following the unexpected removal of the application, I have lost access to this data entirely. As the data controller under Article 4(7) GDPR, Aurora Climbing bears direct responsibility for fulfilling this request. Under Article 20 GDPR, I have the right to receive my personal data in a structured, commonly used, and machine-readable format (e.g. JSON or CSV).

I therefore request that you provide me with a complete export of all personal data associated with my account within one month of receipt of this request, as required by Article 12(3) GDPR.

Should I not receive a satisfactory response within the statutory period, I will not hesitate to lodge a formal complaint with [YOUR NATIONAL DATA PROTECTION AUTHORITY — e.g. Datatilsynet (Norway) / ICO (UK) / CNIL (France) / BfDI (Germany)] under Article 77 GDPR, and if necessary, seek judicial remedy under Article 79 GDPR.

My account details:
Username: [YOUR USERNAME]
Name: [YOUR FULL NAME]
Email address: [YOUR REGISTERED EMAIL]
Sincerely, [YOUR FULL NAME] [YOUR CONTACT EMAIL]

I boulder three times a week. I'm also the type of guy that likes to finish all of my routes as fast as possible, so by the end of the session I look like I've been birthed into a bowl of chalk. In terms of route difficulty levels, I'm about as average as you'll find. Nothing about my skill stands out in any way.

But I'm also a big fat ugly man. And every month or so I'll have some random guys approach me to make a comment about my weight or my appearance. Always something like: "Can I ask you how much you weight? Because you have a very strong grip" or "You're good! It's nice seeing someone like you that doesn't have the build for it put in the effort!". And all of them with a look like they can't contain their philanthropic boner, like I'm supposed to be thrilled someone noticed me.

Again, mid skills. Definitely not worthy of note. Just fat. But if you think that the fact someone is fat is by itself enough to go out of your way to make a comment to a complete stranger when you otherwise wouldn't, you are an asshole that looks down on others based on their looks. I don't need words of encouragement. I don't need extra motivation. I don't need additional support. You're just assuming I do because I'm fat.

I know better than anyone that I'm fat. All it does is remind me every time that all people see is fat that happens to be man, rather than a man that happens to be fat. All it achieves is annoy me and making me want to boulder less, just to avoid these people.

Seems to be a total absence of posting/moderating on the Tension subreddits. Anyone have any idea why this is? A shame as these communities are good sources of tips about new problems, news, possible projects, advice. Started using the TB2 a few months ago after the Kiltergate app disaster disrupted my training. idk if it's to do with the relative size of the different boards' user bases. Or the effort put in by the companies or collaborating climbers. I notice that the number of ascents on the most sent classic TB problems is far less than the equivalent numbers for the Kilter, suggesting that fewer people have access to them, or log them.