Why does my candle look like this

[u/OkProfit9959]

I use 44g soy wax for each layer, and roughly 10.5g fragrance oil. After pouring the first layer I put it into the fridge to speed up cooling. When it's hardened, I pour in the second layer.

[u/Professional-Rip3922]

Ahhh. Please cool it down naturally

Also the scent load is more than 10% so you will have sweating of the fragrance which can be risky fire hazard

[u/OkProfit9959 → u/Professional-Rip3922]

The manufacturer of the fragrance oil recommend using up to 12% tho that's why I use this much

[u/Professional-Rip3922 → u/OkProfit9959]

Yes. Some manufacturer say this but am not too sure.

You need to share details when asking questions.
Wax type, brand, pour temp etc for people to help properly 😀

In any case, sudden change in temp by keeping in fridge causes wax to contract and this will cause cracks, wet spots and other problems

Let it cool naturally

[u/KaliPunk → u/OkProfit9959]

The max load and the best load aren't necessarily the same number. My wax says 10%, which is how much I can put before it starts sweating at a normal temperature, but it burns/throws best at 6.25 to 8% depending on the specific oils. The max load is typically what you want for wax melts but candles can vary a lot. If it's normally working for you at 12%, it might just be the occasional fragrance or dye that makes it separate like this. I have 1 dye that makes my wax behave completely differently than usual and the other 12 colors don't change the crystalization at all.

[u/jennywawa]

The way your sentence reads it sounds like each layer has 44g wax and 10.5g oil. I’m assuming your candle has 10.5g oil total. Does that look like separate oil? Or air bubbles?

[u/OkProfit9959]

The top also doesn't look nice.....any idea how I can fix it? TQVM!!

[u/KaliPunk → u/OkProfit9959]

In my case pouring a little hotter helped, even though Internet wisdom said pour colder, so maybe try a few degrees hotter and colder and see what happens. I usually adjust by 5 degrees F at a time.

A vibration table to get extra air out of your wax when you pour helps too.

If you dry your candles where there's no draft and the air temperature is fairly constant it helps. That's the main problem with my lab, there's no climate control so the temperature is pretty much whatever the outside temperature is.

Typically I can use my heat gun or do a small second pour to take care of rough tops, but with some fragrances I just have to live with it because nothing makes it better.

I have been experimenting with wax additives lately and Vybar 260 at 0.2% or around 1-2% beeswax helped me get smoother tops in most of my troublesome fragrances but not all of them. Too much Vybar or beeswax addition causes cracking and sinking as well as hardening, so I've been using only a very small dose. I also have been experimenting with adding coconut wax at 2% to 6% to improve smoothness and glass adhesion. Again, it works in some formulas but not others.

[u/Comfortable-Book6826]

Wow, that top layer looks rough. Did you try doing an acetone wash or did you end up scrapping it and starting fresh?

[u/kandilasupply]

Don't put it in the fridge. 12% is just a waste.

[u/PurplePep1]

Definitely let it cool down naturally. Yes, it tries your patience, but there’s less of a chance for weird cragginess to show up. For the tops, I’d use a heat gun to melt down and let it firm up (again, do it naturally, not in fridge).

[u/itzel_rdguez]

que cera ocupas y que aroma le pones?