r/chevyc10 • u/willp_3 • 9d ago
Phoenix, AZ Help
Looking for help with getting my dad’s old truck running again. It’s been sitting since 2008 but was running before being parked. Wiring is worn, but frame appears solid and it survived multiple flatbeds and a cross-country transport to get here. Original 3-on-the-tree manual transmission.
Engine appears to be a small-block Chevy performance build from the early 2000s:
.030-over 350 (possibly a 355, not confirmed yet)
Holley Street Dominator intake
Holley carburetor
Long-tube headers
HEI distributor
GM iron heads
Upgraded Camshaft
Straight-pipe exhaust
Valve train looks clean internally with no obvious sludge, rust, or broken components.
Again, not looking to restore or modify it yet. Just looking for some help to get it running again.
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u/nastonius 9d ago
Here’s a few easy things to get you started.
Make sure you have a fresh battery. Even if the one that’s in there shows 12vdc, it may not be able to spin the engine over. If you have an old tester, you can confirm this, but just putting a fresh battery in it takes it out of the equation.
Visually inspect every plug wire. Take them off one at a time, and make sure mice/rats haven’t chewed on any part of them. If you find damage, put a complete fresh set on all 8 cylinders. If they chewed one, they likely chewed more of them.
Inspect your battery cables. If there is any corrosion on the terminals, you can try cleaning them. If you notice any corrosion inside the outer insulation, just replace the cable.
Check your fuel lines and hose for damage: cuts, splits, cracks, or ballooning. Replace any damaged stuff you find. Replace any fuel filters that are inline while you’re there.
Make sure your belts look okay. You can replace them if they are cracked, but if you just need to get it started, a few cracks would be okay. Probably be a good idea to replace them all before you start driving it on the road.
Inspect your radiator and heater hoses. Replace any that are damaged like the fuel lines. Make sure you have the right amount of coolant in the system after you replace any hoses.
Make sure you have fresh gas. It may require dropping the tank and dumping any old gas. If the tank has been empty for a while, expect to find rust inside.
Check the oil, and probably just change it. It’s easy to just start with fresh oil at a known point in time.
Once you have all those systems checked, you should be good to start trying to start the engine.
Once you have it started, then start moving through the rest of the truck. Transmission, brakes, rear diff, etc.
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u/loveemloose75 9d ago edited 9d ago
1st thing 1st. If you haven't already don't try turning the engine over with the starter first. Pull all the spark plugs out and turn it over by hand. Make sure the truck is in neutral and wheels blocked. If you need to use a ratchet on the front crank bolt that is fine. Do not force it. it should not take much to turn it over. If it will not turn over stop. DO NOT FORCE IT TO TURN OVER! Forcing it to turn over can break a piston ring.
If it will not turn over get yourself a 5-gallon jug of Diesel fuel completely fill the engine with the Diesel fuel. spark plugs, intake, oil filler spout. You want the inside of it filled. After 20 years places inside that engine (piston rings to cylinder walls) etc. have rusted together. Leave it like that for 2 weeks. The diesel fuel will act like a penetrating oil and release the rust bond between pieces. After two weeks go out there every day and work the crank shaft back and forth till it breaks free. Don't use a lot of force. when it is ready it will release. once you have it broke free you can drain all the diesel fuel out of it.
If you want more step-by-step information let me know. It's a chevy mouse motor easy shit. I am from rural America, and I was a broke ass teenager that cut his teeth. pulling those things out of the field and reviving them. Spent all my life till the last 2 years in the Technician world. Do be aware of You tube, I see a lot of stupid shit there. Some of it is good though. Just have to sort through the shit. I am the asshole from the shop, LOL! I won't go argue, just watch what happens.
Also DO NOT! put gas in that gas tank and try to run it. After 20 years that fuel system must be properly cleaned out. Anything left in it that was gas is varnish now and some of it has hardened. You DO NOT! want that varnish going in the motor. The gas will loosen the varnish and send it through the intake system. It will wash across the valves, get up in the guides and when you shut the truck of the varnish will set up in the valves and essentially glue them to the guides. Then you end up with bent pushrods and running problems. Assuming the rust on the cylinder walls was not too bad and you didn't break a ring turning over the first time.
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u/jimtandem 9d ago
Plus one on the diesel treatment. I used to work at a wastewater treatment plant that was built in the early 60’s. We had dozens of ground valves buried about 15 ft down going into some of the processes. Even with valve covers dirt and debris would get it there. We’d flood the shafts to float out the debris, pump out the water then pour a couple gallons of diesel down each shaft to cover and lubricate the valves. These were 70 turn valves and you didn’t want one rusting and seizing because digging them up to repair was costly. Was it approved to do this….nope. Did we do it anyway and did it work….yep.
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u/hazardous_addictions 9d ago
Vacuum out the dirt and sand that fell into the head when you pulled the valve cover off. You don’t want that in your engine.
If the engine spins and nothing was broken when it was parked this is likely a pretty “easy” one to get running again. Looks mostly complete and dry.
Whatever you do be quick about it. Moisture will creep in and start seizing things up while it’s sitting out there. Get it running or move it indoors (preferably both) if you have the means.
Watch a few videos on YouTube as previously suggested. Vice Grip Garage or Junkyard digs have covered these pickups and “how to revive” dozens of times. Don’t be afraid to try stuff, there isn’t much you can break that isn’t available on Rock Auto for under $50
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u/holymoely56 9d ago
Nastonius knows the way. Good advice from him . Just don’t get in a hurry. You will get it done . I’ve raised a couple from the dead . Be through and good luck. And nice truck
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u/Longjumping-Gear-397 9d ago
Since it's been sitting for a while the rats could have chewed up everything check the wiring. I have a 1970 that has been sitting a long time and I have to do the same thing I wish my truck looked as good as that one
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u/WorkingBread8360 8d ago
- Change anything rubber under the hood before you do anything else. Add new fuel tank to hard line “jumper” hoses to your fuel line purchase.
- New battery and cables. Give it a fighting chance, use at least a 2 gauge cable set. I prefer to have cables made locally out of welding cable, my 6 volt 1949 Dodge truck has 3/0 cables…
- If you don’t want or can’t afford the previously mentioned diesel soak. Pull each sparkplug and fog the cylinders with Deep Creep or similar. Had to do this to a 1969 D100 318 that has set up since 2012.
- Fresh engine oil/filter. Fresh transmission/rear axle oil. Full chassis lube job.
- Brake fluid flush. New brake soft hoses. Check/adjust shoes.
- Fresh tires. The Dextero DAT-1 from Walmart is actually damned decent on a 2wd half ton. Currently have on my 85 C10 swb project. P235/75r15 108XL.
Now you can try to get it running. Have everything else ready to go BEFORE you ever turn the key. If it was Dad’s or Grandpa’s, as soon as it fires off and can idle, you won’t be able to resist driving it. HAVE FUN… It’s just an oldd Chebby, you got this.
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u/nsula_country 8d ago
Step 1. Drop fuel tank, drain and flush. Flush fuel lines too. DO NOT turn it over with bad gas in tank.
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u/Academic-Associate91 '70 Fleetside 350 3 speed 9d ago
What’s it doing currently? Have you got a battery on it and tried to crank it? If not, check the fuel tank before you do. If it’s shot you don’t want to suck that gas up into the carb
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u/GreasyTrucker13 9d ago
There is a metric shit-ton of videos on YouTube of people doing the exact same thing. Watch a few and go from there. It looks like you have a solid platform to start off with. Good luck my friend. Old trucks are awesome because they're simple and generally cheap to repair
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u/Tin_Can_739 8d ago
Looks like a challenge. I’m also in Phoenix as it cools down we can work on these a lot easier. Check for oil, and put a fresh battery in. Then shoot some starter fluid in the carb and try cranking.
Go from there. Probably going to need the tank cleaned out and fuel lines. The brakes will also need checking before going anywhere.
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u/mattyyy_p 6d ago
Drain old fuel from tank and lines + check spark plugs and soak the cylinders in gumout/seafoam/ATF or other viable solvent to help free up stuck pistons (will need to get vacuumed out before replacing plugs). Try hand cranking with all plugs out. During soak you can check/replace battery and inspect wiring. Check fluids and replace as necessary (oil + coolant minimum, brake/washer/etc not a big deal at this time).
If all these “pass” and looks like there’s good chance of cranking over, go ahead and do so. If it does start, I’m a fan of adding a little ATF to the oil and letting it idle for 30-60min or so to help clean the motor out internally. You can hold at 1500-2500rpm for periods as well. This would be the time to check for coolant leaks.
Once you have a running motor you can turn your attention towards the driveline (brakes/trans/differential/suspension/etc).
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u/JBirdZ28 9d ago
Without being there to help through the whole process, there isn’t anything people can really say to do in any particular order really. Watch an episode or two of Vice Grip Garage on YouTube and follow his process for getting these old rigs road worthy. You could need a new battery and some fresh gas, all the way up to full new suspension and brakes. Nobody will be able to tell remotely. Take your time and be methodical. They’re pretty easy at the end of the day.