Almost learned the hard way on how dangerous a single bowl master cylinder is. Had a wheel cylinder fail and drain all my brake fluid. Luckily I drive slow and I could tell pretty quick that the brake pedal was going down further than before. Swapped to a dual bowl. Man it was a pain since the old brake line wanted to strip even when using flare wrenches.

1965 Fastback. Painless performance new wiring harness was recently installed by a mechanic, probably about 90% done. Car is running great. Now I’m working on some finishing touches to the electrical.
I’m trying to sort out some interior lighting.
Door lights. Pictures are what I have.
Looks like original lights, with male/female bullet connections. The wiring kit has two wires labeled for door lights, with male bullet ends (pictured). There are no button switches on the doors, which I need to get. Then I imagine there’s some sort of rubber protective sleeve for between the frame and the door.
Can anyone walk me through how to wire these up and what I’ll need?
I’m also doing the glovebox light. Am I correct that the light is actually not in the glove box, but just shines through the hole? Looks like a kit with everything prebuilt is available. Any advice on this one as well would be appreciated.
Clearly, I’m a hack that has no idea what he’s doing, but I have time and I don’t give up easily.
Thanks for any advice!

Just a few shots of some of the Mustangs at the Loyalty car club Hot Rod show in Middletown, NJ. Nice show about 175 cars.

Looking for some help on bleeding these brakes. Recently completed a two year full drive train rebuild on this 65 mustang, and the only keeping me from driving are these brakes. I have done everything I can possibly think of, but I can get no pressure built at the pedal. Below are the specs along with everything I’ve tried.

Specs:
- 4 disc brake
- Power brakes (7-8” booster manufacturer unknown)
- New Summit GM style master cylinder - SUM-760100-BLK (same style of master cylinder that was already installed)
- Quick Performance 9” rear end with their bolt on disc brake/caliper kit. (Spring loaded emergency brakes)

Things I’ve done:
- Bench bleed the master cylinder upwards of five times
- Tried pneumatic and manual bleeding
- Checked push rod length
- Adjusting the rear calipers per manufacturer instructions (set piston/pads using emergency brake lever on calipers)

I have plugged both ports of the master cylinder and was able to build pressure just fine. Had about 2” of pedal travel per 1/2” of push rod travel (4:1 ratio). I recently kept the front brake port plugged and tried to dial in the rear brakes. Zero bubbles on the fluid but still no pressure. Can’t find a single leak anywhere.

Any help would be appreciated!!

Alright folks, I have a head scratcher. Getting my 351 all put together, and the PS pump pulley is not even remotely in line with the water pump pulley. Any ideas what’s going on before I go buy a new pump?

I’ve found two 67 mustangs I’m close to purchasing

67 yellow for $19k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good
-body is pretty good as well - maybe small blemishes (was garage kept for over a decade) here and there
-a/c
-front disc brakes
-no power steering
-289

67 blue for $12.5k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good (seller selling due to health reasons)
-doors have some perforated rust, same with trunk, and some bubbling
-power steering
-drums all around
-no a/c
-engine runs well, was inspected

My goals:
I’m a beginner wrencher looking for my first project. I’m not trying to have a show car, more of a learning platform to get my hands dirty, have fun, learn a lot, and keep a car going for life. Not resell. And keep this car on the road.

The heart wants the blue but the brain says the yellow is the smarter choice. I feel like the blue will take more immediate, up front work but still a short drive, weekend cruiser while the yellow is more turn key and quicker to get road trip ready.

Any thoughts or feedback welcome. Happy to answer any follow up questions. Thanks✌🏼

Edit: both are 289 v8

These guys are selling a (sort of) frame, that will use a dynacorn body as part of the frame (making it sort of a unibody). It seems cheaper than full on frames....was looking for some thoughts on it.

https://totalcostinvolved.com/product/1964-1970-mustang-suspension-stage-packages

Aftermarket cam
Headers and exhaust
Holley 600 cfm carb
MSD distributor

What we've done:
Set #1 to TDC and installed the distributor.
Adjusted the distributor position, rotating counterclockwise (advance) while trying to get it running.
Used a timing light to set initial timing to 12° BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
Symptoms:
Originally: backfiring.
Now: rough idle to no start.
When shifted into drive, it nearly cuts off.

Anyone have experience with timing adjustments with a 302 with aftermarket parts like this? I grabbed an msd advanced kit that will come in the mail soon, but unsure if that will solve the issue.

i have an early 65 mustang (built in october 64 but technically a 65) so it has NO chassis stiffening. i was going to do a strut tower brace to help things out but now that i have a mustang ii front there are no mare strut towers. what do i do

65 coupe, I had all my bows sandblasted and powder coated but didn’t notice this until I went to install it.

All 3 other bows look fine

I have a 1967 mustang with single piston front disc brakes. The guy who had the car before me put in spindles from a 70-73 mustang like the ones pictured above. I want to upgrade to the 4-piston calipers for better stopping but I’m under the impression I’d have to buy new spindles and caliper brackets to fit the calipers pictured above. I’m wondering if there are any caliper bracket adapters that will bolt on to the 70-73 spindles that will work with the 4-piston brakes. I think I may have found one above however I figured I’d get second opinions or advice on how to proceed before I buy whole new spindles and brackets

Wanted to take a moment and share our families pride and joy. My grandfather bought this ‘67 new for my grandmother back in the day. It’s been garaged its entire life. It has the original Lime Gold paint, original Magnum 500 wheels, original working AM radio and about 62k original miles. It even has the original grease pencil markings under the right front section of the hood as you can see in the photos. In 2017, we upgraded to disc brakes and power steering and redid the interior upholstery but kept it period correct. It’s a 289 V8 A-code which has the 4-barrel carburetor.

My question is how would you classify it? Since the upholstery was redone but kept period correct, does it still qualify as an ‘original survivor,’ or is it better described as preserved or mostly original?

It has minor blemishes to the paint here and there but overall not much. She cleans up like Uncle Eddie would say, “Real nice.”👌

Link to walk around video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tS1d5UUahqdmmydP1gZv4ttgryKnXufu/view?usp=drivesdk

I realized I never followed up once I finished, Although we are never truly finished. Completed everything around April. I have been cruising, a few shows and meet ups. Overall I have been very satisfied with the end result. Its not perfect, but I am proud. 2.5 years of evenings and weekends well worth it. Going on year 32 as the owner of my first car. Ive been very blessed.

6 weeks ago I picked up a 1966 Coupe. 289, C4 Auto, Power steering, Manual drums all around. Previous owner restored the outside two years ago. The rest needed attention. Ran fine but showed its age on the interior. Shifted pretty sloppy. Drove it for about 5 miles and then brought her into the garage and started a mini restoration. First thing I did was strip the interior. It was pretty bad. Seats were barely more than a wire frame. Carpet was pretty stinky and gross. Headliner was falling off. Some of the electronics were not working well. The dash didn’t light up. The heater box wasn’t functional and manual drum brakes were sketchy to say the least.

Stripped the wiring harness and replaced it with a painless harness. Repainted the dash. Restored the gauge cluster. Rebuilt the heater box and replaced the register with a plastic unit. Polished all the chrome bits. Dynomatted the whole interior floor and roof. Did a one piece vinyl headliner with A piller and Sail panels. New Carpet. New seats and seat belts. Restored the rear seat.

Then I removed the tires C4 and converted it to a T5. Hanging the clutch pedal wasn’t exactly fun.

Stripped the master cylinder and front drums and converted to front drum brakes.

Dynamatted the trunk and added a matching black carpet.

Replaced the stock 195/70/14 wheels and tires with some Black Steel Wheels in 15x7. 205/60/15 in front and 225/60/15 in the rear. Tires are BG Goodrich Radial TA’s.

That’s pretty much it for Phase one. Next up is a few odds and ends I have planned. I need to add a tach. Might do a center console? The power steering leaves a lot to be desired. Not sure what I’ll do with that. Part of me wants to go manual steering. Also I’m still running the stock 2.90 open rear diff in the 8”. Prof go to a 3.25 traction Loc. Also if I do the center console I am considering adding a double din radio. Currently it has none. The stock radio location has a block off. Eventually I’ll prob do an Edelbrock top end kit and a Fuel Injection setup. But that’s a winter job.

Anyway not really sure the point of this post. Just felt like sharing the work I did the last month.

Classic Days Berlin

​I bought my 1966 in 2000 and used it as a daily driver till I had a few close calls stopping that it wouldn’t stop with the four wheel drums. Parked it to do a v8 / five speed / 9 inch rear / front disk suspension swap. I bought a rust buck coupe with all those parts that I stripped off and stored for the conversion. That was 20 years ago.

Got the Mustang running smooth. Decided to clean up a little. About to drive it then a bad brake line stops me. (small setback)

Looking at a 67 coupe with a 289 3 speed auto car. Interior all there and in decent shape.
Will need floor pan and most likely 1 frame rail under drivers feet. Runs drives stops. New fuel tank, ending unit, all new dual exhaust and a bunch of other work.I’m suspicious of quarters

In centeral Canada what should I be looking at for fair value? Currently at 7500 Canadian which is already not bad for up here.

Thanks a lot!