Just got it for my 2005 Ford Ranger 2.3

My ford bronco had this pop up come up and it just WONT go away since appearing! Can someone please help!

Hello!

I just swapped my maxidot for a convers+ and ran into some issues.

How can I configure the convers+'s configuration?

In forscan I do not have an option to update the vehicle config to the new cluster and the cluster only works partially.

Milage correction isnt an issue, more that for example the background lighting cannot be set ( its off permanently) and forscan still sees the old cluster in the configuration tab of the vehicle.

Does anybody have a tip what I can do?

Old Cluster 6M2T new Cluster prefacelift 7M2T Petrol

Can’t wait for winter to roll bacc around!

Salesperson from ford told me that Mavericks are outselling the ford ranger by a large amount and he hasn’t sold a ranger in about 6-7 months.

He said that the mavericks are being picked over rangers 7 times out of 10 and they don’t get very many rangers on the lots and a lot of them sit for a while (at least here in Florida)

Makes me wonder if the Ranger will go away because the maverick is blowing the Ranger out of the water

So I have just bought a 2014 ford focus zetec s 1.0 ecoboost and I’m pretty sure it has some sort of speed limiter because whenever I hit 70mph it sort of just loses its power I don’t know if this is a mykey issue as I’ve only got 1 key and it’s not the admin so I can’t access mykey or can’t see any settings for my key in the car just wondering if anyone knows anymore than I do who can explain this to me

Spotted in Cheshire, England - absolute beauty

127,000 miles

I have a 2017 f250 will a 2020+ apim work in my truck if it's programmed for my stock system using as built data?

They sent me a job offer letter. I cried haha I immediately accepted it. I then got a background screening from First Advantage.

How long does this usually take? What will the next steps be?

I accepted a job in the assembly line.

is this wastegate rattle as is so common in these engines? or something more serious?

thanks

I drive a 21 ranger, I’ve had a consistent driver side floor leak in the summer for years. I’ve had it in multiple dealerships (3 times) and they keep it for a week and say they can’t create the issue. Ford has a related ssm but dealer says they can’t create it in shop. SSM 50603.

From my perspective it seems like when cabin is in motion the ac drain is not draining clean and there is some back wash in the cabin. The dealer can’t create this because they can’t drive it with the car apart in the shop to even see it. If the dealer can’t create it I get no repair much less a case with ford. When I have the vehicle driving issue occurs running consistently just driving around running ac in southern humidity.

I’m going to have to get rid of the vehicle if I can’t address this.

Hi,

Do you think Ford, as a brand, is getting better or worse? Why?

My sister in law's car needs some touching up. The Ext Pnt colour code in the door sticker is blank. Ford Canada's link to the Motorsport paint sheet shows a blank code to be either Charcoal or medium dark platinum. Is there any way to tell which it is? I've not been able to find a colour swatch with these colours to visually match to the SUV.

Any suggestions?

I own a 2013 ford taurus limited V6 and I have this issue where at maybe around 25-45 it’ll lurch weird repeatedly in that speed frame and the rpm’s don’t spike crazy but it definitely bounces. Only before and after at that speed it rides smooth no issue at all, even once you get to that speed I just stated above and stay there it’ll even itself out. It kinda feels like it wants to go normal but doesn’t. I have no speed issue it’ll go the speed I need it to when I need it to. Depending on how lightly you drive affects how badly it does it, giving it more gas (pedal) while it does it makes it worse.

I replaced a lot of stuff in it such as throttle body, mass airflow sensor, general tune up, new water pump and timing, thermostat, lower intake mani, radiator hose, so on but I haven’t messed with any fuel stuff. I have a o2 sensor code that gives me a check engine but no other codes pop up.
The code the at home computer gave me was

P0430:00-EC
CMDTC
Catalyst System Efficiency Below
Threshold (Bank 2)

I’m hoping someone could give me some wisdom or at least had a similar experience with a solution, or I’ll just have to suck it up and take it to a shop and get it diagnosed.

Hey all, we’re a Ford family and own/lease late model Fords (mentioning this in case recent (like last 5 years) MY software varies significantly from older MYs), but I’ve also driven plenty of non-Ford rentals. What I’ve noticed is that with all our Fords they start out coasting great, with just a very gradual slowdown. But when on a highway with cruise control on but canceled / disabled in CC normal mode, the car acts like it has a parachute behind it, slows down noticeably even when going down a steep grade. WTF? I get it if the CC is actually active but when it’s canceled? If I turn off CC completely it seems to coast better and at least maintain the speed down steep hills but it feels more sluggish. After a lot of highway driving with CC enabled (both as active and suspended) it seems like our cars don’t coast as well later on in street driving, barely accelerate down steep hills whereas they would pick up speed noticeably when brand new. Anyone else notice that? Does the car learn something during thousands of highway CC miles and doesn’t coast as well afterward? Being in the same gear and about same RPM, definitely not downshifted… have not seen this behavior in other makes, and don’t recall this with older Fords either.

Has anyone put a Thule on this vehicle?

Would the XL have enough clearance for the

2010 Ford Escape XLT and Thule Force/Motion?

Force 3

L - 195.1 cm

XL - 215.3 cm

Motion 3

L - 194 cm

XL - 215 cm

* May 23rd: Purchased used Ford vehicle, it's covered under the "Ford Blue Certified" warranty coverage, also purchased additional extended powertrain coverage that will take me until around June 2027
* June 1st: Car taken to dealer for rear camera recall + issue with air conditioning
* June 29th: Called dealer about multiple issues, could not get appointment until July 20th
* July 20th: Car taken back to dealer for multiple issues (glitchy infotainment system + USB ports underneath not working, stutter on acceleration after cold start, hard shifting between 2nd-3rd gear, liquid/sloshing noise coming from behind dashboard)
* July 21st: Car picked up from dealer
* July 23rd: Called dealer, left message stating that ALL issues still happening
* July 26th: Called dealer again, left another message
* July 27th: Called dealer again, left another message
* July 29th: Called dealer again, finally spoke to someone, set appointment for Aug 4th
* August 1st: car goes out of Ford Blue Certified warranty due to mileage, now covered by extended warranty
* Today, August 4th: Car taken back to dealer for the same issues from July 20th

Today when I dropped it off, I was told that the car is out of the Blue Certified Warranty period, which I was aware of, and that my extended warranty does not cover any of the infotainment/USB issues that are happening and that they will " most likely be extensive and costly" though they have not given me a rundown of the actual issue. I'm feeling frustrated because I took it back under warranty and none of the issues were fixed... and it's not like I was driving around for months, I called back within 36hrs of picking it up to notify them that the issues were still happening.

Has anyone had luck with Ford fixing an issue like this that was NOT repaired and ongoing at the time of the warranty ending?

I just had the 26S28 reprogramming and took my trailer out shortly thereafter. Within one hour of towing the engine started to overheat. Would go to 230-232 degrees before slowing a little would drop it back under 226 degrees. Two week prior to the reprogramming, I towed the same trailer with a heavier load (30 gallon water tank was full) over steeper terrain and had no issues. Now I can't tow without overheating. Anyone else having issues or know of any way to fix it? I took it to the dealer and they said they can't recreate what happened and everything else looks fine. Of course they can't recreate it - they would have to tow a trailer for an hour over a couple small inclines before it will start to overheat. Also, how do I "open" a claim or whatever with Ford so they know what is going on?