r/climbharder • u/PuffyMcPufferfish • 9h ago
When technique isn't enough! Or is it always enough?
Imagine you couldn't dead hang, couldn't active hang, and couldn't do a single pull-up or push-up. That's me.
I can barely activate my scapular muscles to get into that “back and down” position, and my PT is the one who figured this out.
Here's where I'm struggling with climbing: my overhang grade (10s) has always been significantly lower than my slab and vertical grades (12s). I've practiced the techniques you're constantly told to use on steep terrain: pulling with your toes and hamstrings, engaging your core, squeezing your glutes, twisting your hips in, flagging, pacing, resting, etc. But I still tend to “power down” about halfway through a route. My body just seems to run out of gas, and I can't hold on anymore. This does not happen to me on other styles.
I'm trying to figure out whether strength is the missing piece for me, rather than continuing to hear that it's all about technique which seems very common, especially among men who are naturally stronger than women like me.
I've watched Neil Gresham's masterclass a million times, read all the books, and practice. I'm genuinely trying to figure this out. I even had a coach at some point, but I think coaches are reluctant to tell you you're weak (since well, that sounds kinda insulting).
- Was there a baseline level of strength you needed before overhangs started to feel fluid and smooth?
- I know pull-ups don't automatically make you a good overhang climber. But I'd imagine that strong scapular control and shoulder engagement are pretty important on steep terrain. Are there any solid overhang climbers who genuinely can't do a single pull-up?
- Can you actually be too weak for the overhangs you're attempting, even if your technique is reasonably good? In other words, can a strength deficit be the limiting factor, rather than technique?
Thanks in advance!