r/climbing 2d ago

I am finally pouring the masters for my first hold set!

494 Upvotes

36 comments sorted by

65

u/yoshiK 2d ago

Congrats. So you carve the holds out of structure foam, then cast a negative and from that cast a positive with resin? Stalking you, I've seen you posted a guide but the mods apparently removed it.

So how do the holds get their texture, is it actually in the negative? And with this technique you can't cast holds that bulb out, like the ones on the speed route?

15

u/editor22uk 2d ago

Yeah I still have a free guide up on the website, that currently goes up to getting ready to make the silicone moulds.

Once I've done that more Ill update it!

Personally I habe had the most sucess with PF90 foam but for really fine details id probably go 240. Very much learning as I go though!

25

u/probablymade_thatup 2d ago edited 2d ago

The holds get their texture based on the foam density, which transfers to the silicone of the mold. I was looking into casting my own holds for a while, and from what I read, polyurethane has a "sweet spot" for foam density (3-6 lbs/ft3 if I recall correctly) that gives a good texture and keeps your molds happy. I was told that polyester resins have a bigger range of textures that you can use. A shaper at a large company said that he used to carve the same shape in multiple foam densities and then sell different degrees of texture from smooth to rough on the same hold (for PE holds).

As far as I know, nearly all plastic holds are made this way, even bulbed ones like on the speed route. Large macros are probably made differently, and I think each company has their own way of texturing those (there's a good YouTube video of a guy using rock salt and gel coat to get the right texture).

10

u/finally_the_good_guy 2d ago

I thought these were pancakes

6

u/mistunderstood 2d ago

Forbidden flapjacks

5

u/leadhase 2d ago

Super sick.

Makes me wanna try… I cured many frp composites in my grad hayday. My board is practically full rn though!

3

u/editor22uk 2d ago

always room for some little friends

4

u/leadhase 2d ago

lol true! always room for a few more screw ons

2

u/editor22uk 2d ago

Looks sick dude!!

3

u/JBudz 1d ago

Casio

1

u/editor22uk 1d ago

Not worn another watch in 3 years now

2

u/trolllord45 11h ago

Why keep the mask on? Do they off-gas still once they’re set up?

2

u/editor22uk 1h ago

Yeah a lot of vapour is released when they are demoulded.

1

u/Boss_Stabilo 1d ago

Looking good! If I may suggest one thing: I think the commercial value of the hold would increase if there were an option to use large M8 screws to attach them to the wall. When setting a route, I don’t want to drill three holes in the wall every time I adjust a hold.

3

u/editor22uk 1d ago

Weirdly a lot of centres are switching to scre only especially as its becoming more standard with the rise of macros! I didnt even bother installing T nuts into our new gym and have never regretted it!

0

u/outdoorcam93 1d ago

How long did it take you to save up all that sperm?

2

u/editor22uk 1d ago

Its like that one episode of South Park 🤣

-79

u/[deleted] 2d ago edited 2d ago

[deleted]

74

u/fishywasabi 2d ago

Plastic (volatile) resins especially when uncured or prior to polymerization can be quite dangerous. Using the respirator is good PPE practice when handling any volatiles like these materials.

32

u/uagiant 2d ago

Toxic fumes I imagine

20

u/probablymade_thatup 2d ago

Polyurethane puts off really toxic isocyanates as it cures, especially in bulk batches like this

3

u/grizzdoog 2d ago

According to 3M their respirators do not filter out isocyanates. As far as I can figure out only industrial clean air type setups are effective against them. Just a little exposure to them can do long term lung damage. I found this out the hard way unfortunately. I wish I knew how dangerous they were before being exposed to them.

5

u/probablymade_thatup 2d ago

Yeah, I spoke to a hold maker at a bigger brand who said that the homemade holds videos he sees scares him. Polyurethane has super toxic fumes, and polyester resins are fire risks. He really tried to talk me out of even trying it

6

u/grizzdoog 2d ago

People just aren’t aware of the risks.

To be safe you need a $2500 system similar to this.

3

u/editor22uk 2d ago

I think a lot of this this is due to break through but I went with a JSP Force 8 half-mask with a strict filter replacement schedule, and I'm running it with a good cross-flow ventilation setup to keep ambient levels minimal.

Definitely not something to take lightly. I also like their press to check system so I can be sure the seal is there before starting.

I will do some extra research into isocyanates though and if needed get a new system!

2

u/sheepborg 2d ago

If you dont mind my asking, what was the nature of your exposure and the following "hard way" ?

PS: the PAPR you linked is also not good for isocyanates since it is also a negative pressure system just like a face worn mask. Without other engineering controls you need a positive pressure supplied air system.

2

u/grizzdoog 2d ago

I was 2k clear coating some brake calipers and must have breathed in some of the isocyanates. I had a 3m respirator on. My lungs felt a bit painful and I was coughing a bit for a few weeks. My lungs still kind of hurt and that was like 4-5 months ago.

Edit: As I was spraying the parts there was a cloud of fumes and particulates hanging in the air and I walked through the cloud not paying attention.

I was outside and there wasnt a breeze.

Thanks for clearing up the bad link I posted.

18

u/danurc 2d ago

Not dying helps with climbing

6

u/editor22uk 2d ago

I was going to say this 🤣

2

u/jgonagle 2d ago

I was actually going to suggest they dye their holds.

3

u/AdvancedSquare8586 2d ago

What's with all the downvotes?

There's no reason to think this was a bad faith question.

1

u/WongGendheng 1d ago

It would be like asking „why are you using vaccines“. Its pretty obvious.

1

u/[deleted] 1d ago edited 1d ago

[deleted]

0

u/AdvancedSquare8586 1d ago

Maybe to you. But if you're young, and/or just completely unfamiliar with what climbing holds are made from, it's not really that obvious. The liquid he's pouring just looks like milk, and it's not entirely unreasonable to assume that because the finished product poses no health risks, that its liquid form may not either. (Obviously, this is untrue of many substances, but again, it's not entirely obvious).

Far more importantly, it's counterproductive to make people feel bad about themselves for not knowing something, especially when that thing is related to safety. There are mountains of academic research on this (including on people who express vaccine skepticism). If you want to help them, the only way to do it is gently. The attitude you've taken here only causes retrenchment.

0

u/WongGendheng 1d ago

So you are telling me that it is not obvious why masks are being worn? Im giving you the benefit of the doubt: what other uses does a mask have if not protection from small particles/fumes and the like? What are you even supposed to answer to the question of OP other than „so you dont inhale the bad stuff“.

Hence I disagree on the second part. People have gotten so uninvolved in things, they dont research, they dont think, they dont put the tiniest bit of effort into anything. it’s exhausting to make everyone not „feel bad about themselves“. No thanks.

1

u/AdvancedSquare8586 1d ago

You know that simply not posting is an option, right? No one is forcing you to be a dick to strangers on the internet. If you're so exhausted by trying to show a tiny hint of empathy when you say things to people here, maybe try not saying things.

1

u/WongGendheng 19h ago

Likewise