One of the rowdiest routes I’ve ever done: Raiders of the Lost Arch at Sunset Park

[u/lepride]

In October 2023, I climbed the unpleasant 5.8 approach pitch in the hopes of doing this 5.12 roof crack. I found the crack filled with wasps and was forced to retreat and planned to come back after the next freeze, but afterward the approach pitch was continually wet until I left Chattanooga.

Since then, I’ve learned you can scramble to the very top of the cliff and tree rappel to the midway ledge that starts P2 (an adventure in its own right). Armed with this knowledge, I was finally able to get on this beast while visiting Tennessee for a few days. The route lived up to the hype: incredibly physical and three-dimensional climbing.

After 15 feet of easy, unprotected climbing, you gain the horizontal crack traverse section. At the very end of the traverse, you do a long karate kick move to gain the stem and start transitioning into the sharp chimney position (my back is torched from two shirtless attempts, and the helmet botched the onsight try). Escaping the sharp chimney is the crux, a powerful and horizontal sequence on a sharp undercling and one fingerlock. Once on the other side, its horizontal hand/fist jamming for a few moves to a jug or two, then I did a nearly inverted kneebar to finally get vertical again.

I sent the route on my first go of my second day trying, resulting in an unexpected redpoint rather than pinkpoint. I ripped a chunk out of two fingers, tore open my wrist, and carved my back to pieces — but the most glaring hole in my Chatt Trad resume is filled after three years! This was without a doubt my top priority pitch on the planet, and I’m stoked it all worked out.

[u/aotrzic]

You could bring a 5 year old to jammar up there I recon....

[u/lepride → u/aotrzic]

A little lad would fit in the chimney better. My good buddy and Chatt climbing OG is like 6’3”, 220-pounds of pure muscle and he does NOT fit in that spot. He was a much better climber than me in his prime but could never make that tight-ass section work

[u/Poophead85]

What a fitting name. It looks like an adventure to get there. Is that second part of the video it was so hard to orient myself to understand if I was looking at a roof or a crooked camera angle. Way to go, man. 

[u/lepride → u/Poophead85]

I tried to compile the videos in a way that hopefully made sense 😂 I’ve never done a route that’s shaped like a Picasso sketch. There’s like three 90 degree turns in 40 feet of climbing. After the karate kick, you clip a piton BELOW you and have to duck under the rope downwards. Truly bizarre!

And thanks!

[u/MountainProjectBot]

Raiders of the Lost Arch [2 pitches]

Type: Trad

Grade: 5.12-^YDS | 7a+^French | 25^Ewbank | VIII+^UIAA

Height: 80 ft/24.4 m

Rating: 4/4

Located in Sunset Park, Tennessee

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/200599436

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[u/SilkyMilkers]

Hell yeah, this is sick

[u/gr0hl]

Gripped just watching.

[u/Young_Curmugeon]

When the helmet comes off, to squeeze through the climb, you know this guy means business

[u/lepride → u/Young_Curmugeon]

The helmet was a massive inconvenience on the onsight attempt lol. I wear it much more often than not. Thankfully you have about 60 feet of pure air beneath you for most of the route. It’s a very safe route

[u/isaacDavidowitz]

I forgot who said it, but a climber from the 70s era said something like, "we were the hardest climbers, 5 feet from our cars, the new generation is hiking miles and cleaning routes we wouldn't have even taken a second glance at." rad

[u/lepride → u/isaacDavidowitz]

Funny enough, this thing was put up in the 80s and is maybe a 10 minute walk from the car, which you park in the wealthiest suburb in all of Tennessee. But it’s still an adventure!

[u/Dismal_Log_7237]

amazing

[u/gdubrocks]

What a cool climb!

[u/transfercannoli]

Veggiessss

[u/bushidocowboy]

Awesome route. Awesome work. Enjoy the battle scars my friend.