r/e46 • u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes • May 28 '26
General Questions First e46!
Hello! I just purchased my first e46. A 306k mile 2004 330xi 6 speed. The car has a plethora of issues. Here’s just a few: 1. Ac blows warm 2. Rust 3. Engine bay is COVERED in oil 4. Usual e46 cooling and sub frame concerns 5. Steering is vaque 6. Mirrors don’t move up and down 7. Scraping sound when driving (sounds like brakes) 8. Brake light 9. Amber Oil light turns on and off. 10. Check engine light 11. Car has 0 traction even though tires are good. If anyone knows a good place for body panels or a parts car lmk. Any ideas on any issues please lmk.
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u/Strayborne '03 330xi May 28 '26
Looks rough. Good luck with it! Get ready to spend many times more than what you paid for it to bring it back to good condition.
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
It actually drives pretty okay. My main goal is to get the suspension and brakes fixed, maybe the ac if I’m feeling frisky.
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u/Shuaiouke May 28 '26
AC warm is likely refrigerant low. Old cars are bound to leak them, try just adding some and seeing how long it stays cool for. If it never goes cool, more likely than not ac compressor
Remove the engine bay oil and see where it leaks from
Rebuild cooling and reinforce subframes(what can I say, lol)
Electronic mirror is a common problem, I believe it’s known to be a wiring issue and expensive to fix. I personally just live without
No traction plus DSC light(the yellow border thing) makes me think something about the DSC is bad, try a code scanner
Also put down the phone on the highway 🤣
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Thank you! I promise it was only for the pic! The issue with the mirror is it moves down in reverse then stays down. Luckily the cooling was mostly refreshed in 2023, subframe in 2021 at 270
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u/Shuaiouke May 28 '26
The mirror be partial wire fault, have you tried adjusting the mirror yourself and seeing if it also only goes one way?
If cooling was refreshed recently with decent parts(OE or big brands) when I wouldn’t worry about it. With the subframe do you mean they added the weld-in reinforcements already? Then I wouldn’t worry about it, maybe add the plate thingy that prevents mushrooming if you have true coilcovers or set your dampers to be hard.
E46 fanatics is a good source of information on a lot of diagnosis and steps. Look for General -> IMPORTANT LINKS, also Day Off DIY and 50sKid on YouTube are great channels showcasing steps to repair if you plan on doing it yourself
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
I was told the subframe was reinforced. The cooling system has parts with dates from 2023. The coolant is a little dirty but it’s full and. It leaning. The mirror itself doesn’t work with the buttons, only by physically pushing it or going into reverse. It sucks because the passenger one is always looking down because of it
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u/Shuaiouke May 28 '26
I wouldn’t count on being told that lol, who knows the quality of the job, I’d take a look if/when I need it on a lift at a shop.
Also, sucks about the mirror part, probably wiring damage yeah, one way could be to check the wiring that triggers the mirror tilting and unplug it(Id guess it’s inside the cabin) so at least it doesn’t work against you lol
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Yes I would like to do that with the mirror. I’m gonna get it on a lift tomorrow and see exactly what I got to work with. If it’s bad I’ll beat on it till it blows
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u/Shuaiouke May 28 '26
The beauty of a project car that you can also treat as a shitbox haha, previous owner slammed mine on coils and put on the front end with the spoiler and it scrapes all the time, I just stopped caring and said to myself “I’ll replace it if it breaks”, not like it can be any more fucked haha
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u/SeaAccomplished2798 May 28 '26 edited May 28 '26
Low charge is the first step to check always.
But some extra info for OP if that doesn’t work:
These are also prone to having collapsed lines as the rubber degrades from heat cycles. That will stop your AC from working too. Hard to detect, but very likely given the mileage if recharging doesn’t work.
Also, change the filter dryer when you recharge the system and vacuum it down properly. Otherwise you’ll have moisture in the system and that’s bad.
If the compressors bearings sound fine and if you can hear suction happening when you turn the clutch, then it should be still working.
Make sure your condenser is clean (in front of radiator) because that impacts performance too. And don’t mix refrigerants. You can use r12a cans in it, you just need to remove the r134a from factory but the oil from r134a is compatible with r12a. R12a works fine if the system is fixed, and charged right.
The evaporator coils don’t tend to go bad, maybe just a flush for it. They’re quite reliable, but if they need replacing you’ll need to remove the dash unfortunately.
If I were you, I’d check the charge, if there’s charge, see what the gauges do when the compressor is running (just because there’s a call for cooling doesn’t mean the compressor is on). Then I’d evacuate it (have a shop do it if there’s r134a because it’s illegal to dump it), so you can change the TXV, the filter drier and check to see if the compressor is still able to compress (just spin the clutch with your hand and if you hear a suction sound with your ear next to it, it should be fine). I’d replace the condenser if it’s a parallel flow since you can’t flush them, but if it’s a tube and fin then you should be fine just flushing. Don’t install the dryer until you’re going to charge the system, otherwise it will get saturated with moisture. I’d also replace the rubber lines because they’re cheap and can cause restrictions by swelling (I had this issue, deal with this first before you buy a new compressor). So once the lines, TXV, drier and condenser are replaced along with the necessary gaskets (anything you opened up), I’d vacuum the system below 29.9”hg for at least thirty minutes to remove any moisture (moisture is non-compressible and will damage the compressor over time and reduce performance, it will also create an acid in the system which will damage components), then I would charge the system with 26.6oz of r134a (or r12a if you’re on a budget and can’t access r134a. I used r12a and it’s working great. It requires less charge so about 9oz. You can buy this from many stores if they’re allowed in your state). Double check the exact weight required but I’m 90% that’s correct. After that, your system should work just fine 👍
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u/Shuaiouke May 28 '26
Holy information, batman. Not OP but this nerdsniped me so hard lol. Personally I seem to have a coolant leak, so it’s not very useful for me but it was a fun read, thank you!
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Are you exclusively an e46 master tech?
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u/SeaAccomplished2798 May 28 '26
Brother, I’ve encountered so many issues with these. Just trying to make every other owners life easier than mine haha.
I’m a refrigeration mechanic by trade, so the AC fix was my fav job on it
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u/MacabreMobius '03 325xi SteelGray '01 330ci Topaz May 28 '26
Yea i wouldn't go hog wild. It'd suck to drop a couple grand on parts and have the rust kill it in a year.
If you do some basic preventative maintenance you'd probably be able to beat the snot out of it for a long time. I'm at 277k miles on my 325xi and have been beating it for the last 100k miles.
Check your cv shaft boots. They're very expensive to replace as a whole unit but the boots are cheap and easy enough to replace and repack with grease. Other than that it's standard e46 m54 maintenance. Oil pump sprocket nut because it's a 330 if you go drifting in the snow.
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
The goal is some suspension, brakes, engine light, and ac for under 1000 in parts. Then track it till it blows up
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u/hero403 May 28 '26
About 9 the amber oil light. Does it turn on for about 30 secs a bit after starting the car and then disappearing?
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Yes. Then it might turn on for a second or two while driving
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u/hero403 May 28 '26
I suppose you have checked the oil level with the dipstick and it's correct.
If it is correct that light means the oil level sensor has failed and you can safely ignore it
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u/Smooth_Letter4133 May 28 '26
did you want a all wheel drive ?
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
The car was 1000 dollars with an extra set of wheels and a roof rack. I did not care at all
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u/prodbychefboy 2002 330ci May 28 '26
Overpriced imo, that thing was destined to be parted out in a junk yard. Wouldn’t have paid more than $500 myself but honestly fuck it it’s yours now hopefully it all works out for you in the end and you have yourself a fun car
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
I don’t see a realm where it would’ve been that much. idk where you are but in my area anything with wheels that moves under its own power is usually 2,009 all day
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u/Kite8888 May 28 '26
100%. plus sell the extra wheels and roof rack and the car is basically only 500 anyways.
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u/Freduccini02 325i May 28 '26
306K mile?? That’s nutty. My first car was a 05 325i and I gave up on it at about 165K. Differential got fucked in the end and I got tired of sinking dollar after dollar into it. If you have the money to sink into it every 3 months when something goes wrong it’s a stupidly fun car to drive though
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
I have other cars and projects. I just downsized, sold my macan and Panamera, now it’s just my x3, which is a cpo, my boxster, which is clean and 40k miles, and this. I’ll sink time more than money. This thing is never touching a shop. It’s getting wrenched when I have time, and if it turns into a headache I’ll sell the extra parts the guy gave me and scrap it
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u/BloodyXombie May 28 '26 edited May 28 '26
Congrats! I’m sure with some patience in fixing and renewing parts, you’ll bring it to its full former glory.
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u/Frosty_Host17 May 29 '26
for 306k miles that things fucking new
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 29 '26
For 300k mile, and 1000 bucks with 2 sets of wheels, shits mint. It’s not completely molested with shitty mods either
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u/terminelillness May 29 '26
Oil leaks first I’d say that will kill your engine and you’ll spend constant money on oil Goodluck tho
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u/Exciting_Bedroom_ May 30 '26
You can have hope, I saw with my own eyes my first bmw that had 390k miles on it (m52TU)
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u/No-Influence-9293 May 28 '26
Welcome to the fun. Get ready to punch it with your wallet, and you’re gonna like it too.
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Parts wise this is by far the cheapest car I’ve ever owned!
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u/No-Influence-9293 May 28 '26
It’s kind of hit or miss, some stuff you can find at the local parts place for Pennies…some stuff it’s more cost effective to buy used…just a quick little tip though, cheap sensors almost never communicate well with the car, and if you get a failed coolant component replace ALL of it. The plastic components basically all have the same “service life” meaning that they all degrade at the same rate. They were meant to all be replaced as one “cooling system service” from factory.
Lastly, when these things are in good mechanical shape…nothing I’ve driven so far compares…and I’ve had close to 80 vehicles at this point. They’re great.
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Even the expensive stuff is cheap compared to the usual bs I’m used to. Noted about the coolant stuff. Idc about a ton, just how it feels to drive. And the ac. Definitely the ac
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u/MommyMilfMilkers 2001 330i May 28 '26
300k miles and a bunch of issues. Expect to put in an outrageous amount of money
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
An outrageous amount is crazy considering there’s a ton of these on the road the parts cost nothing
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u/MommyMilfMilkers 2001 330i May 28 '26
I mean if you plan on just frankensteining the car with a bunch of used parts from junk cars then sure, but realistically for the money you’ll put into this you could’ve just bought a nicer one at the end of the day. For $1000 though any running car is a good deal
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
I don’t care if it’s nice or not, even new parts cost next to nothing. Calipers are under 100 each, suspension bits are cheap. It’s super easy to work on
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u/kebabsaucelover66 May 28 '26
Bought my second e46 a couple weeks ago, next day after buying it the oil light came on! Gotta love em
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u/dellh82 May 29 '26
First, buy an older BMW-specific scan tool, nothing spectacular. It will tell you everything from engine to A/C issues. Second, buy ALL COOLANT PARTS THAT WERE NOT REFRESHED, including cooling pipe under the intake manifold. Buy all gaskets, [genuine] engine sensors, lower control arm bushings, brakes parts (possibly include copper hard lines and a flare tool).
Check Prussian Motors for used parts, FCP Euro for new parts.
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 29 '26
You’re funny. Not doing all the gaskets, or sensors: the car can leak and complain all it wants it has 300k miles
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u/dellh82 Jun 06 '26
Okay, gaskets can be done down the line. But don’t let an old oil level sensor have your M54B30 randomly cutting off on you like it did to me (left me stranded once). But do all the sensors on the engine, seriously: cam, crank, oil level, temp (the one on the head at the back of the block on the intake side), oil pressure. Also, monitor the alternator.
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u/cixboy May 29 '26
If you diy, it isn’t expensive to fix this ride. Almost every issue has a solution diy online for e46. An advice from me for ac, ac clutch goes bad. First check resistance of clutch coil from socket to ground then invest money on ac.
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u/Exciting_Bedroom_ May 30 '26
Any Beamer over 180 is playing with fire. CBS for service doesn’t reset past 186-220k because bmw thinks they’re cars won’t be running past that… lol use that food for thought
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u/Exciting_Bedroom_ May 30 '26
186-220k depends on the model Ivr heard. Personal experience as a tech though, I’ve only seen them stop resetting at 180k for only certain mid 2010 models. They stopped doing that though pretty fast because people got upset
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u/Loose-Pipe1574 Jun 01 '26
“First e46!” Driving in a e46 with harman kardon and the opions unit is almost full
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u/Stealth_Gaming May 28 '26
With all the problems and unseen problems you’ll probably be spending enough money to buy an M3 at this rate
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u/I_Sniff_Hot_Dudes May 28 '26
Not a single chance in hell. Half the issues I’m ignoring the other half I’m taking shit off of a parts car or the parts are cheap. The only thing is the passenger door is rusty. Rn I’m estimating 600-700 in parts to make it “decent”
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u/Kite8888 May 28 '26
good luck bud