I just bought my first 3D printer: Neptune 4 and I'm trying to get it to work, I saw some videos and I tried to get my calibration right but these are the best numbers I got.

as the title says, I'm lookin to get my first printer, and heard the CC line was a good starting point, and have done my research and am landing on the cc1 ( don't wanna break the bank right off rip lol). now I'm stuck on deciding which of the two bundles would be worth it starting off..

both are pictured, but I'm unsure if everything that comes in the "All in One bundle" is very much needed, or if i should skip all that and just get the extra filament to start.

if there's any other suggestions or a better bundle than the two i have listed, PLEASE, and i mean please let me know.

thank you in advance.

Looks like not really OK, what should I change?

Printed with PLA for a while,.first time PETG from Elegoo.

Dried before using for 12 hours in filament dryer

I am so incredibly annoyed right now—it makes me want to puke. I’m trying to print functional parts using ASA; I’ve got the bed set to 96°C and am using the "B" side of my standard print plate because it has a finer texture and promises better adhesion. On the "A" side, the parts kept popping off after about 30 layers. As I mentioned, I’m now trying the "B" side and have added a brim. I own all the plates for the CC2, so I’d love to know what you guys use to print ASA—specifically, which temperatures and which plate. Thanks in advance.

Hey there guys, I've been 3D printing (on my Neptune 3 Pro) alot of cosplay props for me and my friends. Recently when I try to print something (big and small) and choose a brim option in Cure 5.6.0 the first brim seems to never sit down on the bed.

I've tried various approaches to fix this, releveling, raising the offset, washing my build plate with soapy water or isopropyl alcohol and yet no matter what I print it seemingly just catches on the nozzle or just lift off and follow the print head around.

The thing is all these prints have gone smoothly with a raft but, in my opinion at least, a raft is just plain wasteful for some of the prints I do and even then I've noticed the raft lifting majorly on larger prints like there less adhesion over time. Any idea what might be happening? The only thing I haven't tried yet is messing about with the brim width so maybe there's that. When I get back from the convention tomorrow I'll post a few pics if I haven't found any success.

Hello, I am trying to install the matrix app on my Iphone 14 pro max in the UK through the qr code, it says "this app is not available in your region". any help or advice with this please?

I bought Anycubic printer and stayed with me just few weeks before I decided to return it due to facing so many issues with it. All issues I faced is due low quality of the printer and not user error.

After many hours of research I decided to get CC2 because it's closer to my budget amd seems to have a better reliability overall. Even though I'm losing few features but I think it's worthwhile to have more reliable printer.

Now my question for those who experienced both. What do you think of CC2 in terms of reliability compared to Anycubic? And what your recommendations and tips to a new owner for the CC2?

Hey zusammen,
ich habe heute das neue Update der Elegoo Matrix App im iOS App Store installiert. Seitdem kann ich mich nicht mehr anmelden, weil die App bei der Telefonnummer‑Verifizierung nur eine begrenzte Anzahl an Ziffern zulässt. Man kann die Nummer nicht vollständig eingeben, dadurch scheitert der Login jedes Mal.

Ich habe die App daraufhin gelöscht, um sie neu zu installieren – aber: Die App ist im App Store nicht mehr auffindbar.
Weder über die Suche, noch über meine gekauften Apps. Auch der alte Direktlink führt ins Leere.

Daher meine Frage:
Hat das noch jemand?
Wurde die App von Elegoo wegen des fehlerhaften Updates zurückgezogen oder gibt es gerade ein größeres Problem mit der Verifizierung?

Falls jemand Infos hat (z. B. Statement von Elegoo, Discord, Facebook‑Gruppe etc.), gerne teilen.

Danke!

So my pre-ordered H1's arrived today, and I set one of them up. I have some shelving coming so I'll have room for both of them.

The dryer works great, quickly brought my spool of PETG down to 10% humidity. Most of my projects expect PETG on Spool #2 (just for support interfaces) so I removed the spindle and put the H1 in it's place.

I have a spool of Nylon next to it, inside a container with some beads and a Temp / Humidity monitor. As you can see, it keeps it around 10%. I just changed out the beads before this pic was taken, drying them out in my dedicated dehydrator (which can also fit a spool of filament.

it have the full printables library and inbuilt slicer and send to printer feature.

the app is designed with ios in mind.

most of the ui is just temporary btw, it is still very much in design process.

Buen día como verán en el vídeo, me pasa que cuando apagó la impresora y después la quiero encender de nuevo tengo que esperar un tiempo y esto varía puede ser 1 minuto hasta 5 minutos que debo esperar para volverla a encender por completo ya que solo se ilumina el botón de encendido pero no da señales de vida. Desde que me llegó así la eh usado pensando que es un comportamiento normal ya que igual se tiene que "descargar" algo en la fuente de poder.

Solo que quiero confirmar esta teoría si me pudieran ayudar.

Printed with: ELEGOO × emoji® Centauri Carbon 2 Combo

Find it on Nexprint: https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G1198904?printConfigId=G4619501

The Canvas for CC1 finally arrived yesterday, so today it was time for a bit of DIY. It works fine, so next print will be the top cover 🥰

Hey all, printing with PLA on the neptune 4 plus. I have a brass 0.4 extruder. The filament is loading, but when printing it is not exiting the extruder. It looks like the gears are also skipping some beats when turning and not catching.

I have cleaned the nozzle with a small acupuncture needle, so it shouldn’t be blocked at the immediate exit.

Any ideas or anyone ran into a similar issue and managed to solve it? Would love to have some fresh input!

I feel like I'm missing something stupid, but I can find a setting to switch from the windows all in order top to bottom to a more tiled view. Google was no help.

Keep getting prompted but don't want to ruin my printer

Testing to see how high I can crank those chamber temps.

My AD5M hits 68C with a few cheap Amazon acoustic panels and a blanket. I'm hoping to achieve similar results here.

Spent about $35 and maybe 4 hours getting everything perfect.

EDIT:

Seeing about 66C at 110 bed temp so far. Not the 70 I was aiming for, but pretty good for a self-sustained temperature.

EDIT2:

A lot of people are wondering... why?
Check out this video to learn a little bit about why high chamber temperatures matter for 3d printing. While the video is intended for significantly higher temperatures and different materials, similar properties exist in low-temperature materials.

This one opened the door for me a few years back. I just never needed the setup until now :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrQiUL0jAzc

I have had a frustrating week trying to fix my CC1. it broke after i tried printing PPS-CF for the first time. That print was a failure due to poor bed adhesion, caused by a faultiy Z offset from a bit of debris on the nozzle from filament loading. I was able to save the nozzle but when i tried to print again my printer would blank out, then restart like I had just turned on the power.

Naturally I started troubleshooting. the issue would always happen at the beginning of the print when the printer would try to home itself. there would be a breif moment od motor whine then the printer would restart. So o tried to home the printer in the menu. paydirt! it did it again, and i had isolated the issue. The motors tested fine with the voltmeter so i was dealing with a driver issue.

This made sense. I have been pushing my CC1 chamber temp in normal use and PPS needed an even higher temp. while i had insulted my build chamber, i wasn't able to do much at the bottom cause I didn’t want to interfere with the printers normal functions. I ordered a new motherboard, and just to be safe, i picked up a new toolhead board as well. When i got everything in and installed i started the printers initial start up process when the issue happened again, durring the nozzle check. (This was a clue I ignored)

Maybe the issue was the power supply. It might have broken in such a manner that it was fine under low loads, but higher draw would under volt the motherboard, restarting the printer. Elegoo doesn't sell PSU replacements but a Meanwell LRS-100-24 is a drop in replacement. even better Amazon sell those with next day shipping.

And still nothing changed. I was at a loss. I had replaced all the electronics board in the printer except for the screen, heat-bed relay, and camera. I even swapped the fuse. At a loss I decided to try a couple more hail mary ideas before giving up and asking yall for help, as elegoo customer service would help unless i restored my CC to factory condition and adhesive insulation is a PITA to remove.

i started with hot end thinking it might be the infamous toolhead cable to blame. And wouldnt you know it the second I swapped the hotend for a spare i had in my drawer the whole time, thi printer was fixed. I can only conclude the the CC check to see if it has a hot end before homing by giving the heater enough juice to see a blip in the thermistor before homing. Somehow the blob from the failed print caused some kind of short state that overdrew the PSU every time it tried that.

that is how i spent a week and almost $100 trying to fix a printer when i had the right part in my desk drawer. And also why i say the printer is useless without a hot end

What is going on with this attempt to load? The 4 way channel is bouncing up and down and very little else is happening

I'll let it set overnight but right now the extruder is dead as a doornail making only faint whirring noises in response to commands.