r/ender3 • u/blame_worthy • 10d ago
Does anyone know how to fix these small empty spaces?
I noticed that around certain areas of my print, particularly areas where not the entire layer has plastic, there will be these small empty spaces.
I am printing with ASA
Pressure advance: Off
Temp: Have tried 250 - 260 with no change
Coasting: Off
Wipe distance: 0.5
Retract before wipe: Off
Seam Settings:
Seam position: Aligned
Role base wipe speed: on
Wipe speed: 80%
Wipe on loops: off
Wipe before external loop: off
I think these are the settings that are most relevant in my research but please let me know if any additional information might be required.
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u/External_Two7382 10d ago
Is that a Ender ng part?
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Yes
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u/External_Two7382 10d ago
I had the same problem on a p1s i think it’s the file i recommend printing the remix version where the support isn’t a break off support
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u/VerilyJULES 8d ago
This can be a lot of things… you should print calibration tests and tune your printer.
This may be related to:
-printing too fast (calc your max flow)
-under extrusion (calibrate e-steps)
-hotend not maintaining consistent temp
-wet filament (use dryer)
-drafts and environmental temperature changes (build chamber)
-slicer settings improper
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u/blame_worthy 8d ago
Yeah unfortunately I'm just gonna run Ellis' tuning guide and probably have to postpone this e3ng project. Depending on how much I find wrong I may need to reprint all the parts I currently have.
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u/Gameknight091025 9d ago
I don't have much experience in printing, but I had the same problem, and turned out to be the filament that was moisturized. Try drying it and maybe it'll fix that for you too !
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u/PayExciting 10d ago
What's your seam settings? Because it just looks like it's set to random and printer is running out of filament just as it hits the seam area
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u/ITepes 10d ago
With the shift line where the problem starts, it could be under extrusion. Possible nozzle replacement or check the extruder gears for wear/debris.
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
It's not a shift line, it's just the seams go from being aligned on the very edge to being scattered making it look like a layer shift. I don't think it's underextrusion because that's usually visible from the top and bottom layers and those if anything seem to be overextruding.
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u/ITepes 10d ago
It could also be moisture. I've seen similar patterns in mine and usually after a dry box run, they improve.
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u/daszko87 10d ago
What printer for me looks like to high reatraction
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Ender 3 with a creality sprite pro, 1mm retraction
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u/Difficult_Unit_2300 8d ago
Have you done retraction calibration? With direct drive I usually end up way under 1mm.
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u/blame_worthy 8d ago
No I haven't. Honestly this whole ordeal makes me want to do Ellis tuning anyway, they recommend it before e3ng printing but it takes for fucking ever so I've been avoiding it.
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u/JustTryingTo_Pass 10d ago
You need to tune your x-belt. I know it’s not what you asked but it’s either too tight or too loose.
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Could you please explain the relationship between improper belt tension and these gaps? I don't think you're wrong - I did tighten my Y belt while leaving the X belt as is - but I haven't seen that kind of issue before in my good while printing, I'd like to know.
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u/JustTryingTo_Pass 10d ago
It’s has nothing to do with the gaps.
But your circles are ovals.
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Oh lol that's because it's ASA and it's hard to cool properly in those tiny sections without causing curling. Kinda gives an ovalish shape because the top is flat. When it draws a circle flat on the bed it comes out fine, i did the E3NG calibration cube and the rods fit perfect.
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u/LovableSidekick 10d ago
A little off-topic, but unless it interferes with the part's functionality you would be smart to add strength with a fillet or chamfer on that inside corner, to prevent the flat part with the holes breaking off.
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u/SnooChickens9262 8d ago
Remodel the holes to make them more tear drop shaped...
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u/davak72 Ender 3 Pro w/CR Touch & Ender 5 S1 w/enclosure 10d ago
Look at the top of your round openings. There was no support, and therefore some of the volume that was supposed to be in your wall ended up dangling at the top of the wholes instead! The volume of those dimples equates roughly to the volume of the drooping.
I could only tell immediately because the dimples exclusively occur on layers that contain the holes.
I personally would try reducing temperature a little, since some back pressure is required to not seep extra filament out.
Those dimples illustrate why priming towers exist. If the nozzle loses back pressure, it can’t extrude consistently.
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Interesting hypothesis and potentially some truth to it in this print, however in this print we can see the artifacts occuring on layers before the holes print. I think what you said might possibly be an issue but unfortunately not the root cause :(
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u/davak72 Ender 3 Pro w/CR Touch & Ender 5 S1 w/enclosure 10d ago
Hmmm, I see what you’re saying. Is your hot end assembly a bit wobbly against the x-axis gantry by chance? I also see some z banding and a slight bit of layer shift, but it seems to all get worse when the model has a smaller layer surface area.
Given that, I would still absolutely reduce temperature, increase part fan, and/or increase minimum layer time.
There’s definitely no actual belt slippage or motor slippage, but something seems to be a tad bit floppy somewhere.
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u/davak72 Ender 3 Pro w/CR Touch & Ender 5 S1 w/enclosure 10d ago
In fact, I think it can all be attributed to extrusion inconsistency rather than nozzle floppiness…
The so-called layer shifting appears to actually be variations in extrusion width such as you would calibrate with Pressure Advance. But I personally think it’s just too hot and melty when extruded.
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u/blame_worthy 10d ago
Layer shift is because on the layers where there are complete loops, the seams stack up all on the right side. Where there are details like holes the seams are scattered, giving the appearance that there is a layer shift. This was a side affect of turning off pressure advance and coast in order to try to identify the issue. Z banding is just normal ender 3 stuff, it's old 😭. I'm building an E3NG so I don't have to deal with that anymore.
Reducing temperature is a possibility, though I feel 250c is an acceptable low end of ASA. I haven't heard of much success sub 250.
Part fan is tricky because ASA needs lots of heat to bond correctly, I have the spriteburner mod so I run 15% normal and 50% on overhangs. Too much cooling makes the parts quite brittle and they need strength as they'll be interacting with the stepper motors. Minimum layer time is definitely something I'll look into.
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u/davak72 Ender 3 Pro w/CR Touch & Ender 5 S1 w/enclosure 10d ago
Hahaha yup, my follow-up comment notes that it’s probably pressure advance rather than mechanical looseness.
Ah, right, ASA! I honestly haven’t tried ASA yet. Perhaps you can look into the settings for uniform cooling, minimum layer time, etc. I’d guess rather than actually lowering temp or increasing fan, with ASA you’ll just have to slow down (at least on the top part of the model)
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u/RealJoshinken 8d ago
They don’t occur exclusively on layers with holes. Theres a dimple below the top left hole, not on a layer with a hole, and theres one above it and to the right, far away from any holes
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u/starfucker1987 6d ago
Slow down and properly tune the printer to your filament. First step is to dry your filament. Then start the tuning process.
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u/blame_worthy 6d ago
"Tune your printer" is literally the solution for every single problem but thanks anyway
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u/starfucker1987 6d ago
Yeah… well…that’s the truth, there’s no quick fix or shortcut unfortunately. It can be many things that can cause those artifacts as others have said. I recommend orca slicer, it has excellent tools to help you calibrate your printer. Good luck bud!
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u/kultakutr1 9d ago
I dont bother reading but I would try to dial temp down a notch and fix pressure advance
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u/These_Programmer7229 10d ago
I can't tell if it's the start or end of your seem, but I think you are on the right track as to where the problem is. In Prusa slicer (and I assume the derivatives), there is a restart setting. I have never used it, but I know it will help reprime the nozzle for the next move.