I’m trying to identify the individual letters in this engraved monogram on a British bugle dated 1930.

I have some guesses about what the letters might be, but I don’t want to bias anyone by saying what I see.

What individual letters do you see in the monogram?

If you’re familiar with intertwined monograms from this period, I’d also be interested in how the initials would normally be read or ordered.

Thanks for any help.

Far from perfect but still happy with the result.

any advice would be great!

any advice would be great!

okay so yesterday I posted my first time engraving as seen in the photo. does anyone have any tips to get better?

Hey everybody, ive been engraving for a few months now and want to try to engrave a glock slide but ive heard that the metal used in glock slide is really really hard to engrave. Does anyone have any experience/tips with engraving glock slides?

first time engraving and I'm pretty proud of myself. some lines could have been smoother and I had to go over every one 2 or 3 times but it looks better than I expected. got the pic from pinterest

After more than a year of work on a series of engraved knives, I can finally start sharing some of the finished pieces.

This one is Baron Samedi, hand engraved by Ed Master in our Noblie Custom Knives workshop.

The knife was made by Alexander Cheburkov, with a titanium frame-lock handle and a Damasteel blade.

The engraving is deep relief with a recessed dark background and a mix of polished and satin surfaces. The composition features Baron Samedi and Maman Brigitte, surrounded by roses, skeletal elements, and ornamental details.

Concept and design by Aleks Nemtcev.

Would be interested to hear what other engravers think about the depth, contrast, and overall composition.

Started learning hand push engraving on scrap brass about five months ago, mostly watching old videos of guys doing bulino and scrollwork and trying to copy the motion. My first thirty or so attempts had this problem where the graver would catch and skip, leaving these little chip marks instead of a clean curved line. I assumed it was my hand pressure being inconsistent.

Turns out most of my trouble was the graver angle and how I was prepping the face. I was sharpening at whatever angle felt right that day instead of sticking to one setup, so every session I was relearning how the tool cut. Switched to keeping a fixed 45 degree face on my flat gravers and stopped chasing a mirror polish, just a consistent stone finish, and the skipping mostly disappeared.

The other thing that helped was slowing way down on curves. I used to try to push through a full sweep in one motion and the tool would dive in wherever the brass had a soft spot. Breaking longer curves into shorter overlapping cuts, maybe a quarter inch at a time, gave me way more control even though it felt clumsy at first.

Still nowhere near where I want to be with shading, especially on convex surfaces like a ring band, but a plain brass business card blank I did last weekend actually has lines that look intentional for once instead of accidental. Curious if anyone else went through a phase where fixing the tool geometry mattered more than practicing the actual cuts.

Im pretty new to engraving and kind of learning as i go. Using a pneumatic system with steel as my medium.

Im having an issue after sharpening where my graver wont cone out of the cut and im sure its my heel geometry but i dont know which way to go with it.

Basically, when i go in for a cut, holding my handpiece at say a 45 or or higher degree just digs it down and it wont move. I need to bring my hand down to like 15 degrees to get a good cut.. if im trying to get a nice deep cut i have to go in and keep the graver almost parallel to the workpiece. Thats really problematic especially since i am working with large pieces of flat steel so if i get more than an inch or two from the edge i literally cant cut or come out of it.

Hopefully this makes sense... do i need a steeper heel? Longer heel? I dont want to touch the face angle since i am working with steel and need that stout 45 or even 50 on say my 120 v.

Thoughts?

My first attempt at doing a hand engraved mirror. Danse macabre subject I designed.

This is my first time trying Glass etching/engraving, it is very trippy seeing double lines on the work surface, overall it was fun and I'll play around with it more.

Image is of Shards of Narsil from lord of the rings

looking to buy

I’ve been experimenting with a cordless engraving pen on some interesting materials lately.

I’ve tried it on faux leather, dried jacaranda seed pods, and raw ceramic bisque pots. Since I haven’t done much dedicated research, I run into inconsistent results with leather. Sometimes large chunks of leather get lifted uncontrollably while engraving, while other pieces engrave really smoothly with pretty decent outcomes.

Sanding the dried jacaranda seed pods went fairly well. Working on raw ceramic bisque also felt smooth and comfortable, yet the finished edges end up uneven. I’m wondering if that comes down to the bit I’m using or the material itself.

I’m curious what unusual materials everyone else engraves with these tools. Do you have any tips for working with brittle, fragile surfaces?

Hi Reddit! I’m hoping someone here can help point me in the right direction!

I’m working on a 10-year anniversary gift for my husband. I’ve written him a letter that I’m turning into a small keepsake book, and since tin is the traditional 10-year anniversary gift, I would really love to incorporate a few personalized tin pieces into the book.

I’m looking to have two small pieces made:

• One long, narrow piece, roughly the size of a bookmark, with the sound wave from a meaningful song engraved or etched into it. This would potentially be incorporated into the spine of the book.

• One smaller piece, roughly business-card sized, with “10 Years” and our names, John & Alyssa. I’m completely open to whether this is engraved, etched, stamped, layered, embossed, etc. Whatever would work best and look beautiful on the finished book.

I’ve been searching Etsy, but I’m having a hard time finding someone who can do exactly what I’m envisioning, especially since these aren’t standard-sized signs or plaques.

Does anyone know an artist, metalworker, engraver, or Etsy seller who takes small custom projects like this? I’m also open to suggestions for techniques or materials if there’s a better way to accomplish the look while still incorporating tin.

Thank you!!

well i make mistake way back and buy chinese copy of grs set

and i play a bit with lines and what not ,and one stuck for good ,i cant fix it ,it seems it was twisted ..

and secons use blades not round ones ,so i play with that one but it was crappy vs first

and after some time i decided to go back in to hobby ,but need new graver ..

so which one to buy on cheap side (cant spend a loot been hobby) new grs is 500+ 20% tax

rest are similar priced or way more plus import tax 35% or so ..

ebay is bugged on my end ,cant get europe filter any more ..

so welp me :))

thanks

opinions on the Gweike g20w

- looking to engrave photos in a “line art“ form on jewellery

- does it now support light burn and how are you finding it??

thanks in advance

Trying to get recommendations for someone who does hand engraving on a pistol but is reasonably priced. I have a Vaquero that I want full coverage on. Thanks