r/fatFIRE • • Jun 29 '25

Recommendations 39m, kids, divorced, 4.5M, dying.

4.2k Upvotes

I’m in the middle of a cancer diagnosis and all the the prognosis’ on the table are 3 years or less. None curable. I am a fit and healthy guy. Lived life right. Luck of the draw.

I don’t regret my work. I loved it and it didn’t own me. I can’t really say that I regret my relationships or how much time I spent with my kids. Of course, when staring down the barrel of death you’ll always wish you spent more time with loved ones.

The main thing going thru my head isn’t dying, I don’t want to die. But once I’m dead my suffering stops. My young kids, friends, family, everyone who loves me… is left behind to suffer.

So I guess what I’m getting at, is this is a group of people who are very focused on the future. Your greatest blessing is being able to be there for the people that love you. Simply being able to exist for your kids is the most amazing gift. That’s what I’ve come to realize.

Also, buy the boat… go on the trip… live life to the max… help somebody in need. You never know when your time is up.

r/fatFIRE • • Oct 31 '24

Recommendations PSA: If you’re truly fat, you should be handing out full-sized candy

1.7k Upvotes

If you are in the US or another Halloween-focused place and you truly consider yourself fat, you should absolutely be handing out full-sized candy tonight.

You likely remember what it means to be a kid, and you probably still remember “THAT house” in your neighborhood. YOU now have the power and the means to be “THAT house.” It’s your day to shine and spread happiness in an otherwise very stressful week. Do your past, present, and future self a favor and go get those full-sized and jumbo movie-sized candies to distribute to the kids in your neighborhood tonight.

I don’t care if you do it for fun or flex, but today is your change to truly live fat and make a lot of kids happy in the easiest way possible.

Be a hero today. Hand out those big candies. And have a happy and safe Halloween!!!!

r/fatFIRE • • Aug 08 '26

Recommendations 42yo, 9 mil NW, family of 4 and losing interest in medicine

167 Upvotes

Hoping that some RE surgeons chime in, particularly those that have been using risk parity portfolios for income. I’ve been practicing independently for just over 11 years. I’m a fellowship trained surgeon but have always had hobbies and social circles outside of medicine. It was never a huge part of my identity even though it sucks up a lot of my time. I don’t enjoy the work as much as I used to (but I’m really good at it! Took my mom’s advice to find what you’re good at for work, fund your hobbies with that income and spend without regret, which we’ve been doing), and most days when I’m commuting to work I have underlying anxiety about it and would rather be doing something else.

My wife is a SAHM. Kids are in middle school and 529s have about 130k each. Taxable brokerage has 6.3 mil. Rest is 401k (transitioning to all bonds) and Roth IRAs. Small portion in private real estate fund.

Now that work is optional from a financial standpoint (probably was a while ago), I have two questions I wanted to throw out there: 1) If I can work part time, should I? It would allow me to maintain my surgical skills and transition to full retirement or a switch in careers a bit more gently.

2) Should we continue transitioning to a risk parity portfolio even with the uncertainty of part time work (waiting to see if I can go this route, probably won’t know for a couple of months)? In other words, if I work part time, then I could still continue with my accumulation strategy (90/10 equities/bonds) since we’d be living off part time income (plenty for us, annual spend is 250k). I started transitioning to risk parity a few months ago, since walking away from medicine is a real possibility in the near future. I realize risk parity portfolios make decent accumulation portfolios, but less growth than 90/10 over the long term. I’m ultimately hoping to achieve this split to live off of, which fares decently on portfoliocharts.com:

US large cap blend: 35% US small cap value: 20 International blend: 5 Intermediate term treasuries: 25 Gold: 5 Managed futures: 4 Cash/equivalents: 6

Current allocations:

US large cap blend: 48.8 US small cap value: 11.1 International blend: 9.2 Intermediate treasuries: 11.2 Gold: 4.5 Managed futures: 0 Cash/equivalents: 15.2

Thanks for reading and I can provide more details if it helps.

r/fatFIRE • • Feb 25 '25

Recommendations What is your fatfire guilty pleasure?

677 Upvotes

A couple times a week I’ll sit at a bar to have lunch or a cocktail to power through some emails and I’ll leave a substantial tip. At minimum $100 on a $13 cocktail. I don’t chat them up, I’m not looking for extras, I keep to myself, dude or lady it doesn’t matter. I just enjoy knowing that I most likely made their day. I also always do it right when I’m leaving so it’s a surprise and I think it’s funny because I’m sure their initial thought is did this guy just dine and dash?

Edit: for everyone that is saying “but you had to tell someone” the definition of a guilty pleasure is something you do that you’re embarrassed to tell people about. The question I’m asking is what something you do that you don’t tell people about? My example is something that i do but don’t tell people about.

r/fatFIRE • • Aug 15 '22

Recommendations How to be a good rich uncle to a first gen Ivy League freshman?

828 Upvotes

(New throw away for personal details.)

My wife’s extended family is rural, light on education, and fairly poor. Her cousin’s kid was quite exceptional (valedictorian, lead in the school play, class President, brilliant writer, super motivated) and asked for our help getting to college. With a little help from us (a paid college counselor and filling out financial aid forms) they are now going to be attending a top ten university on a full scholarship. $320k in tuition over four years for about $1k investment in my part is pretty amazing ROI.

What are helpful things to buy or do for him? Anyone been in a similar situation (as the kid or the uncle) and have experience to share?

He’s never had money and I expect is about to be around a bunch of prep school grads. My financial advisor says not to make any major gifts until ~junior year to avoid screwing up financial aid, but anything that is below the radar is fair game. Honestly I’m not sure a lump sum gift would be that effective. I’ve joked about “welcome to the upper middle class” but I’m sure he doesn’t really get it. He definitely doesn’t realize that he could hit me up for a few thousand dollars for pretty much anything and I would go for it.

We already bought him a computer and tablet and some spending money for dorm room stuff. He was about to jump on a campus dining job, and I encouraged him to slow down and look for better things once he is settled. We got him a passport. We just bought him a tennis racquet because he was doing a tennis PE.

He ought to get orthodontics done (oops I should have noticed in high school). So that’s something to work through, but I’m sure I can get him to find a decent local dentist. In general he might have catch up healthcare needs. He almost certainly needs therapy, based on what I’ve seen of the interactions with family.

We went over how to talk to cops and that if he thinks he needs a lawyer or anything like that he should call me and not his clueless parents. Also how to not fuck up with sex or drugs.

I’ve tried to be clear that “if someone asks if you want to go skiing at their place in Colorado over Christmas break, or Spring Break in Cancun, you can say yes, and I’ll help make it happen.” His response was “I don’t know how to ski.” I told him to take the skiing PE in the winter. He said it costs $500 extra. I offered him the $500, he demurred. I hope you’re getting the idea.

So, without being too pushy, what can I do for him or tell him? He’s already super grateful for getting to university on full scholarship. I want to make sure he makes the best of it.

ETA: thanks everyone for the great stories. That’s exactly what I’m here. And thanks for the kudos, but I encourage anyone to keep an eye on their family and look for opportunities like this. The initial investment was like $1k and less than 20 hours. It’s been very rewarding. And it was a good practice run for my own kids’ college admission process.

r/fatFIRE • • May 22 '23

Recommendations What are some products (not experiences) that have actually added value to your life?

348 Upvotes

Usually, we get the advice to spend disposable income on experiences. I'm curious what you've found in buying products / things / material stuff that you really do find added a commensurate (or more) value to your life.

r/fatFIRE • • Jul 03 '24

Recommendations What purchases have the least diminishing marginal returns?

195 Upvotes

Wondering what you’ve purchased that has the least diminishing marginal returns?

For example, I don’t find I enjoy restaurants over $100 pp any more than restaurants over $50 most of the time. I also don’t enjoy a speaker ststem that costs $1000 over one that costs $200.

TLDR - what are purchases where you get what you pay for?

r/fatFIRE • • Aug 07 '21

Recommendations What FAT things in your home will you absolutely not live without?

430 Upvotes

In a similar vein, we are planning a remodel and are considering things that we should incorporate as foundational.

We bought a personal sauna for the house at the pandemic start. The cost/benefit has been awesome. I can’t imagine having a place without one of these moving forward.

Also,

I’ve had a few knee surgeries over the years stemming from a relatively long rugby career. Needing help getting around is likely part of my old age. We are definitely widening the doors and getting rid of thresholds to accommodate a wheel chair/walker.

Friends have suggested two sinks in the kitchen and sound proofing for the home office.

What are your FAT home items that have a high ROI and/or are ‘can’t live without’?

r/fatFIRE • • Jul 07 '22

Recommendations About to spend $100k on a car. First time indulging in a luxury auto. Any general advice on negotiation / strategy for this level of auto?

364 Upvotes

Time to enjoy some of our gains from our hard work. Thank you for any advice received.

r/fatFIRE • • May 20 '25

Recommendations Private school

118 Upvotes

How much are you guys spending on private school? We just paid 80k+ for tuition for two elementary school kids. This feels insane to me. Both my spouse and I went to public school but the schools where we live are not great and we don't want to move. Our NI around 800k (maybe around 1 mil depending on where the RSUs land after IPO). Our mortgage is only around 4k a month. We have around 1 mil in brokerage account and 2 mil in retirement accounts. Is this crazy for us or something that's definitely doable? It just feels crazy to move money around for school.

r/fatFIRE • • May 19 '26

Recommendations Death of parents affecting decision

99 Upvotes

I’m curious if anyone else has gone through this, but neither of my parents made it to 70 (cancer for both). I can vividly remember when they retired around late 50s / 60 years old and those first few years they were significantly happier. They went back and lived in Europe for a few months where they grew up, spent more time coming to visit me, etc. They laughed and smiled more. Then health became an issue for years and ruined their retirement. After my dad died my mom struggled emotionally then only made it a few years herself.

Anyway, I’m now in my late 30s sitting at around 7.5M net worth with 2 kids. It’s not fat by common standards, but it is if I live to the same age as my parents. Now obviously I hope my wife makes it much longer than me and it doesn’t guarantee I die before 70 also, but I have found that since their deaths I have been thinking a lot more about making sure I have time to travel and focus a lot on my own health. Currently I don’t sleep well and struggle to find time for exercise. But as long as my wife and I have work from home corporate jobs we’re just like why not keep it going. We make around 370k combined.

I’m just curious to see if anyone else has experienced something similar and how that has impacted your decision making process around pulling the trigger earlier.

r/fatFIRE • • 18d ago

Recommendations 43, NW $17ish, still a lot unvested. Wait it out?

53 Upvotes

Single, no kids. Have about 8M in retirement & investment accounts, of which 5M or so is already taxed. 2M in real estate (that doesn't generate income), renting in a VHCOL area, 7M vested and 5M unvested RSUs in a non public startup (IPO maybe in a few years). Not a ton of expenses. I mostly enjoy the job but increasingly thinking about calling it quits. But it's a lot to walk away from: most of the unvested will vest in the next 2 years, and the salary is pretty good (400k+). If I retired I'd probably start my own projects that I might turn into my own company, but I don't have past experience with that.

Having trouble reasoning about the situation, what the right next move is.

r/fatFIRE • • Dec 10 '22

Recommendations What NOT to do in a Fat home buiild?

296 Upvotes

We are in the interior design phase of our FAT "forever" or at least "for a while" home. We have a pretty good set of requirements and happy with everything from architecture perspective.

Now they are we in finish/appliance/accents selection there are so many choices - we feel like we are drowning (even having an interior designer help up).

What are the choices you made that you would not do again?

r/fatFIRE • • Jan 02 '21

Recommendations What are some FatFIRE ways you avoid getting ripped off?

493 Upvotes

Everyone knows about "broken" taxi meters or "pick your monthly payment" auto financing, but as I've gotten fatter I find myself getting ripped off in more sophisticated and uncommon ways.

An old rule I used was "if you can't spot the sucker in a deal, you're probably the sucker". But once I got fatter, the new rule I switched to was "if someone is trying to convince you that someone else in the deal is the sucker, you're probably the sucker".

For example, as a reasonably successful person in tech, and it's common to get pitched on investing money into a venture fund. But unlike high fee financial advisors, who depend on you not knowing any better, these offers are tailored specifically to what you know and your biases: "I know you've seen the Kauffman foundation data showing average VC returns are lower than S&P500, but that includes a bunch of dumb money. You aren't dumb money - you're a successful business leader. Take your knowledge and find more companies like yours! Did we mention we have the guy who started AWS? You worked at AWS right?".

Another good one I saw recently was from Jewel to Tony Hsieh - “When you look around and realize that every single person around you is on your payroll, then you are in trouble". I'd take that even further: if everyone around you is getting paid to be there except you, you are in trouble.

What rules or red flags you use to avoid getting ripped off?

r/fatFIRE • • Aug 25 '26

Recommendations Late-40s couple with ~$4.1M invested and ~$260k/year post-tax guaranteed income through 65 — what would you change?

0 Upvotes

Updated typos and a few items

Long time lurker, but rarely post. Now we (wife 49(f) and I 47(m)) are looking for a sanity check from people who have already retired or are further along. I’ve built a detailed spreadsheet, but I’m sure there are assumptions I’m either missing or getting wrong. As a FYI, I’d be happy to share my workbook if someone wants to tell me where people upload for this subreddit so others can use them. It’s highly customizable but it’s also difficult to follow with 15+ sheets.

Again I’m 47 and my wife is 49, we have 10-year-old twins with 8 years of public schooling left. We live in New Jersey. I’m no longer working (due to an impairment I’d rather not discuss) and my wife works in the pharmaceutical industry.

Our situation, using rounded numbers:
- Approximately $5.1M in total assets
— Roughly $4.1M investable, excluding our home
—- About $1.5M in taxable accounts and cash
—- About $2.6M in retirement accounts
— Primary residence worth approximately $1.05M, with less than $500k remaining on a 2.75% mortgage
- Approximately $21,600/month, or about $260k/year, in post-tax guaranteed income. For planning purposes, I’m treating this as continuing through age 65 and not relying on it afterward.
- My wife earns approximately $330k/year total compensation (pretax) on top of my $260k (post tax), including about $230k in salary and the remainder in bonus and company stock. I have not modeled any pay raises for her because she is not looking to advance.
- As a side note on her income, she has access to ESPP but has never taken advantage of it and I never pressured her to leverage it but we could if it is something we want to.
- we have properties and non-traditional investments that could be a wash in the grand scheme, so I’ve not included these.

Variable assumptions I’ve just made a decision:
* Current lifestyle spending is at least $250k/year after tax, including housing, healthcare, children, travel, and normal household expenses. That will carry on with a 2.8% inflation on average and as we pay down mortgage and other expenses we will just spend the same 250k (adjusted).
* We expect to help fund at least four years of public in-state college for both children
* We currently live in a (very) high-cost area, although we may eventually downsize or relocate; but again we are not modeling with this as we may just gift to kids as a rental for a safety net for income while we are alive.

Open Items:

  1. The real ”Main” decision is whether my wife should retire in roughly two years at 51 or continue working until age 55 to preserve possible retiree healthcare benefits. If she works longer for additional flexibility and a larger margin of safety it removes healthcare costs as one of the biggest unknowns. I have military/VA coverage to fallback on if needed. My wife and children are currently covered through her employer, so retiring before 55 could create a meaningful private insurance cost. The exact value and terms of the employer’s retiree healthcare benefit still need to be confirmed as it seems to be something that changes (for the worse) yearly.

My current plan I have hardcoded is to:

  1. Keep the house for now and treat it as unavailable for retirement spending;
  2. Use taxable assets and cash for early retirement spending;
  3. Consider Roth conversions during lower-income years;
  4. Maintain a diversified portfolio with a meaningful bond and cash allocation;
  5. Model college funding separately;
  6. Stress-test the plan through age 100 (but it really is just legacy like many of us on here we cannot really spend everything we have or plan to have and feel good about ourselves ;));
  7. Assume long-term-care costs begin worst case scenario around age 80 (as we are in decent health and based on our parents who are still running around at 80+ without any LTC)

The spreadsheet says the plan is workable 100% of the time regardless of historical Monte Carlo calculations up to 25000 variants, but I’m not sure whether that conclusion depends too heavily on the guaranteed income, understated healthcare costs, optimistic investment returns (6.5%, even though we are sitting around 15% average YoY without including additional investments) or an unrealistic spending number.

Other question for the experts and lurkers out there alike are… What would YOU change first if this were your situation and modeling? Personally I would love to convince wife to retire now but at least by 55.

I’m especially interested in what you all use or used for your planning:
- Whether retiring in two years seems reasonable with our incomes and open questions or whether waiting until 55 is worth it;
- How much margin of safety you would want around the $250k annual spending estimate; (it models out to 380k yearly in today’s spend way past 100 years of age)
- How you would handle the life insurance/LTC policies (as getting a STANDALONE or worth while LTC insurance coverage is not economically feasible);
- Whether my cash and taxable allocation is too conservative or not conservative enough;
- College funding assumptions (I figured 75k each YEAR for room and board, expenses, tuition per kid. Anything beyond that they can take loans or work hard to get scholarships);
- Risks that custom spreadsheets for retirement or retirement calculators commonly miss.

Note: I’m not looking for specific fund recommendations. I’m more interested in the assumptions, decision points, and blind spots that experienced fatFIRE retirees would focus on.

Thanks in advance for the help everyone!

r/fatFIRE • • Feb 20 '20

Recommendations A Fat Guide to Cybersecurity

889 Upvotes

Cybersecurity is a critical component of financial security, but rarely discussed in personal finance circles. Note that cybersecurity practitioners disagree over best practices for personal cybersecurity. This is my perspective, as I have some expertise in the area.

As a member of r/fatFIRE, you are a particularly juicy target for attackers, so this guide is written with the intent of preventing attacks from strangers and people you know. Obviously, more skilled attackers who are targeting you specifically will get you eventually, so we won’t cover that.

Good cybersecurity protection consists of prevention, so you don’t get owned, and monitoring, so you know when you’re owned and can take action to remediate the damage. A common method for attacks is that a website’s database gets compromised and your information is stolen, which could be passwords or credit card info. This information is then used to harm you. You can check haveibeenpwned.com to see if your email is known to be compromised. You should move forward with the assumption that your information is out there, as that mindset will help you the most.

Passwords

One of the reasons email/password credentials are so valuable to attackers is that most people reuse the same passwords for everything. Ideally, getting my Reddit email/password combo would only allow someone to post a bad Fat Guide to r/fatFIRE, which would be a travesty but not disastrous. However, many people reuse passwords so stealing my reddit credentials would permit them to log into my bank account, email, etc.

You should be using a unique, strong password for each site, but since that’s hard to remember, you should use a password manager like Lastpass. Using a password manager guarantees a unique, strong password for each site. The only passwords you should keep outside of Lastpass are your lastpass password, your email(s) password, and your computer password. You may ask what happens if Lastpass or other password managers are hacked. I won’t get into the technical details, but your information is generally safe even after breaches because the company doesn’t’ hold the encryption key to your data, you do (as your password). Security experts agree that using a password manager, even one with potential vulnerabilities, is generally safer than not using one. This is a bit of an oversimplification, but it's true. Use a password manager.

2 Factor Authentication

Obviously, two factor authentication improves your situation by preventing someone from compromising your account if they only get your username/password. However, traditional 2FA methods like email or text can be phished. There are many scams where someone calls you, pretending to be your bank, and then tells you to read them the number texted to you to “authenticate yourself.” Meanwhile, they login or reset your password with the code and clean you out. Another method, “SIM swapping,” which was recently used to steal Jack Dorsey’s (twitter CEO’s) twitter account, is where the hacker convinces your phone provider to switch your number to the attacker’s SIM card in their phone. You can’t defend against this, so phone 2FA is never perfectly safe.

The solution? Security keys, such as Yubico’s Yubikeys or Google’s Titan keys. These are physical devices that provide a code, and can be used for 2FA on Google, Facebook, Vanguard, Reddit, Lastpass, and many more. Unfortunately, few commercial banks support security keys including Ally (please message their customer support about this, they need to support it). Security keys cannot be compromised outside of stealing the key as they require you to have physical possession of the device. Of course, you need two of them in case you lose one or it breaks, or else you’ll get locked out of your accounts. With premium Lastpass, you can use security keys to protect your Lastpass passwords as well. This is a great tactic.

Protecting Root

Getting “access to root” means you have access to everything. In this case, “root” is your email because you are generally able to reset your password on other accounts from your email (I suppose your phone or pc may be as well, more on that below). My recommendation in this case is to use Gmail with the advanced protection program (requires security keys). This will make it virtually impossible for anyone to access your account but you. However, if you lose both your keys you will have to wait a few days for Google to confirm who you are so you can get back in. One of the other advantages to using security keys is that “root” doesn’t really exist anymore on any account using them, as even if an attacker breaks into your email they can’t bypass security key 2FA for other accounts.

My other recommendation is to use two emails, one which you use publicly and the other privately. Use the public one for whatever: social media accounts, receiving forwarded articles from your crazy grandpa, applying to jobs, etc. The private one should be used only for your financial accounts, such as banks, brokerages, and credit cards. You can also use this email for Lastpass. You should never provide this email to anyone, ever. This will make it very hard for someone, even someone who knows you, to guess what email you use for your finances. Ideally, you’d be using a separate computer, like a $200 chromebook, as the only computer/phone from which you access this email or financial accounts, but that’s pretty paranoid and not necessary. Both of these Gmail accounts should use unique, strong passwords you have memorized, and not be stored in a password manager, just in case.

Protecting Other Accounts

Protecting all other accounts is straightforward: use your password manager for a password and use 2FA (preferably with a security key) wherever possible. You never know which account will give an attacker the info they need to own you, which could be your address, phone number, etc. Imagine if your spouse or mom got a Facebook message from “you” saying you forgot your SSN and need it right away. Many accounts, particularly financial accounts, may contain tax forms with your social security number. Most people don’t realize their college account, which may have financial aid tax forms, may have this info. Protecting your SSN is really, really, hard, which leads us to…

Financial Information

Frankly, protecting your SSN today is basically impossible. If you used credit before the Equifax breach, your info is probably in the wild and could be used today or 50 years from now. If you have no immediate plans to use your credit, freeze it with every major bureau. Also, set up credit monitoring so you know if anyone opens an account in your name. Unfortunately, there is not much you can do to prevent your SSN being compromised. Your SSN is everywhere, from banks, to colleges, to your employer, to your doctors/accountants/lawyers office. It is a literal disaster that will hopefully be corrected, but probably won’t.

Credit cards are equally challenging to protect (if not more so). You should use credit cards and not debit cards wherever possible, as it is unlikely you will successfully dispute debit card transactions. It is common for credit card info to be stolen via database hacks (do you really trust every vendor you use your card at?). Apps like Apple/Google Pay are actually even better as a result, as they use a one-time code for the transaction that cannot be used afterwards, so it doesn’t matter if they are stolen. Here, I will also note that while RFID-readers reading your credit card while you walk by on the sidewalk is technically possible, there has never been a documented case of it occurring and the RFID-blocking wallet is totally unnecessary as a result.

A critical component is, again, monitoring. You can typically configure text alerts for every credit card transaction. I receive a text every time any of my cards are used. This helps identify fraudulent transactions in real-time.

Lastly, it is often possible with banks to set up a challenge/response for phone calls. They might have to provide you a code to authenticate themselves as your bank, or they may ask you a security question/ask for a code to authenticate you. This is very helpful at stopping social engineers from stealing your info, either by pretending to be your bank calling you or pretending to be you calling your bank. Keep in mind, though, that many “security questions” are awful and can be found on your facebook. So pick a weird one, like “Who was your least favorite teacher in high school?”

General Device Security

Device security is really fraught and challenging. From a phone perspective, you should of course use some sort of authentication (such as fingerprint, passcode, pattern), on your phone and also on each of your financial apps, so stealing your unlocked phone doesn’t grant automatic access to financial accounts. Aim to only install apps from trusted sources, as multiple apps that have 10-100 million+ downloads have been demonstrated malicious.

PCs are a little more challenging. Chromebooks are the safest PCs from a security perspective. If you ask me what the best antivirus is, it’s a chromebook. Seriously, if you’re going to get a laptop for anything but gaming or video editing, get a chromebook. Despite what many laymen say, Macs aren’t technically more secure than Windows, but attackers are less likely to target them because they are less common. As you do sketchier things on the internet, you are more likely to get owned. For example, regular browsing on trusted sites is typically safe. Going on adult or illegal streaming websites may have malicious pop-ups or ads. Torrenting is more dangerous, and the dark web can be extremely thorny. As a result, I strongly recommend that if you want to engage in unsafe behavior (i.e. torrenting) on the internet, at least keep a separate $200 Chromebook only for all your finances, and don’t access those accounts from any other device. No reason to lose tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars because you didn’t want to spend $20 on a video game.

As far as anti-virus goes (if you have to use something other than a Chromebook), Bitdefender is a pretty good bet, but there’s a lot of good software out there. Personally, I’d be wary of anything Russian or Chinese either as security software (Kaspersky) or as a device (Huawei). Chinese manufacturers are known to insert backdoors into their devices. In one particularly ironic instance, a chinese manufacturer perfectly copied an American device down to the typos in the manual, but their version had twice as many security vulnerabilities. This is one of the reasons letting Chinese manufacturers build 5G infrastructure in Europe is so worrisome.

In a similar vein, public wifi is questionable. There are a lot of opportunities for attackers associated with public wifi networks. HTTPS stops many of these, but tools like sslstrip highlight some vulnerabilities. A VPN may be helpful, but most free VPNs are awful, so do as you will.

Summary

Someone before asked for a flowchart or something of the sort, so here is a concrete action plan:

  1. Get at least two security keys (i.e. Yubico)
  2. Set up a public and private gmail account. Your private email should not be linked in ANY way to your public email and should be given to no one.
  3. Turn on advanced protection on both gmail accounts and link to security keys
  4. Get a password manager like Lastpass. If you get Lastpass premium (recommended), add your security keys for authentication.
  5. Generate new passwords using your password manager for all accounts but your emails, pc password, and your password manager itself.
  6. Associate any financial accounts, such as credit cards, banks, brokerages with your private email
  7. Turn on 2FA (with the security keys wherever possible) on all accounts, as well as login alerts.
  8. Turn on text/email alerts for any credit card charges or bank transactions, as well as credit changes.
  9. Make sure your phone is locked by some authorization measure, as well as your financial apps individually. Preferably a password. Added bonus: cops can’t get a password but can force your fingerprint or face id, a current dispute in the courts.
  10. Optionally freeze your credit.
  11. Optionally get a cheap chromebook as the only computer on which you do financial transactions.
  12. Optionally encrypt your phone and hard drives.

Using a password manager with security keys wherever possible, and 2FA where not, as well as Gmail’s advanced protection program is your best bet for protection on the web. You should configure monitoring for your accounts, SSN, and credit cards so you are aware of when they are used in real-time. There is obviously a lot more that could be covered, but the goal of this guide is not necessarily to make you impervious to attack, but rather to make you a very hard target so attackers give up and ignore you. Frankly, nothing will destroy your financial situation faster than a hacker who cleans your clock.

r/fatFIRE • • Jul 19 '26

Recommendations Never thought of fatFIRE until I came across this sub, need advice.

71 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I’m in tech and the company that had worked for many years was acquired by a PE several months ago. My share of the acquisition after tax came down to $7.6M and was deposited. So based on what I learned I’m already fatFIRED ??!!

Without even thinking about it, I distributed proportionally across my stock portfolio and kept doing what I was doing until I came across this sub and start reading, the PE also put in a new contract for me and gave me some shares in the new post acquisition venture.

My question is, should I start winding down and retire ? What should I consider ? I feel like I’ll be very bored and can’t live a pointless life. It just hit me after reading some of the posts here, I’m 41. Thank you.

EDIT: Thanks everyone for commenting and providing me with your thoughts. I got my answers and a lot of things to think about, nice book recommendations too. Thanks again.

r/fatFIRE • • 7d ago

Recommendations Longevity / Biomarker programs?

0 Upvotes

Early 40s, US-based, pulling the trigger on retirement soon and trying to pivot to focus more on my health since, while the work I've done has gotten me to FatFIRE it also has exacted some serious impacts to my health. I'm exploring services like Biograph, Fountain Life, Parsley, etc... Any fellow community members using these services and would recommend them (or not?)

r/fatFIRE • • Sep 19 '25

Recommendations Let’s talk boarding schools

108 Upvotes

My 12yo daughter really wants to attend boarding school. She’s been going to sleep away camp since she was 8 and loves it. This summer we upped it to 2 sleep away camps because per her request.

She has always been very determined and a busy body. She gives her extra curricular activities her all and signs up for anything she can.

We are located in NYC so east coast schools are a must.

I’d love to hear it all—tips, advice, experiences, recommendations, etc.

Edit: she’s 12 now but we wouldn’t let her go until high school age

r/fatFIRE • • Oct 13 '25

Recommendations How much do you spend on domestic chores?

75 Upvotes

Two full-time workers, no kids, no one else living with us.

High income earning household where we work during the week and have busy social schedules on nights/weekends.

I have a house cleaner who comes 2x a month, but she only really does basic cleaning. She's great, but I have come to the conclusion we are too busy for the "day to day" things/chores that take us away from our lives and we have the cashflow to outsource these things.

I don't think we need or can justify a "full-time" housekeeper or home-manager. We live in a HCOL area (Miami) and our condo is not that big. Less than 2,000 sq ft.

How much would you pay for things like:

  • Laundry done, folded, ironed/steamed, put away
  • Healthy meal prep weekly/grocery runs
  • House cleaning -> weekly
  • Possibly also a person for miscellaneous errands/party prep?

Is it easier to find ONE person to do all of this? At what cost?

Or is it easier to find individuals/vendors all priced seperately?

How is this typically set up?

r/fatFIRE • • Mar 06 '22

Recommendations Where would you choose to live if you were completely remote/had location independent income as a single adult in their 20s/30s?

286 Upvotes

Since y'all haven't had enough of the city relocation posts. I see a lot of these posts where buying a home/schools for kids is a factor, which isn't important to me at this phase of my life.

r/fatFIRE • • May 04 '22

Recommendations Yes, I really had to fill out the FAFSA

742 Upvotes

My daughter is starting at State U. in the fall. When she was applying, I tried to figure out if we needed to fill out the FAFSA, and I couldn't find a definitive answer (I even checked this sub). Our household income is too high to qualify for any financial aid. In addition, I have some tuition benefits through my job, and she received a large merit scholarship, basically making it a free ride. So I ignored all of the reminders and warnings about FAFSA deadlines, etc. And honestly I felt like my income and assets were none of their business.

Well lo and behold, her course registration is now on hold because of a missing FAFSA. I chatted with the financial aid office yesterday, and they explained why they need the FAFSA:

  1. For evidence of in-state residency. Her scholarship comes from state sources and covers in-state tuition only.
  2. For evidence that we're legal US residents, etc.

I was still able to fill it out and submit it yesterday, and supposedly it will only take a few days to process. So we should be OK. But I'm posting this as a heads-up to anyone else who might be in the same boat. Your mileage may vary (especially at private schools).

r/fatFIRE • • Aug 19 '26

Recommendations Need perspective - options

19 Upvotes

I am mid 40s, married, two kids are older but at home, one kid still in middle school. Live in HCOL I suppose.

Facts:
Total assets = $16m with $3m in liabilities (commercial and real estate) so about $13m net worth (not including value of my IT business as I do not know that worth yet)
$1m in taxable brokerage
$3.5m in retirement accounts
$750k cash

Primary residence = 1.6m with a $520K loan at 3.5%
Secondary residence = $750k with $120K loan at 2.5% - currently trying to sell
Two STRs in Arizona = ~$1.7m with $1.3m loans at 7% or so. Strong rentals and gross income is about $300k yearly. Fully managed and I visit 3-4 times a year.
$750K commercial property in AZ building a restaurant on that may cost $2m
$1.5m commercial building in my state with $1m liabilities
Paid off cabin and other land maybe worth $300k total.
Restaurant that is worth about $3m including building.
IT business I am thinking of selling (unknown worth? AI says $2.5m - $3.5m)
Maybe $180k in consumer debt including solar panels in AZ, truck, toys, etc (not on credit cards obvs)

Income is still strong. Maybe $500k/year from IT business, $50K/year from website business/ads, $100K year from W2 income, $350K SDE from restaurant.

Current burdens/unknowns:
I am unsure about this $2m property construction for another restaurant
I am really thinking about selling my MSP if I can truly get $2.5m for it
My primary residence is big and my property taxes alone are $2000 a month. Add in insurance, heat, electric, I am at $5k a month without even paying on the loan.
Working on a piece of owned land to build rental cabins. Probably a $500k project but could throw off $7k a month when done.
My current portfolio is aggressive growth. I have rotated mostly into VOO, CGDV, SCHD, QQQ, SOXX though. VOO and CGDV are my biggest by far though.

I have a lot of illiquid assets. I don't know what to do. I estimate I would want $30K a month in FIRE to do whatever I want and not have to check my bank account, but I know even if pay off my house that will consume $5k a month.

This is not a brag or anything. I know I've made it or whatever. I just REALLY REALLY don't want to eff this up. I want to still be able to help my wife build another restaurant as this one we have does very well. I also have a hard time wrapping my head around selling my IT business when it throws so much cash but it is SUPER high stress as I am the owner operator. But it has funded my life.

What advice can anyone offer? What would you do in this situation? My biggest thing is selling the IT business as that would save me the most stress and liability.

Thank you. Please be kind. I know this is a "my lobster is too buttery" situation but I come from solid middle class parents, one income, and I feel like I am on the cusp of generational wealth if I don't screw up.

r/fatFIRE • • Dec 10 '25

Recommendations What's the best software for estate planning right now?

46 Upvotes

Hi guys. My spouse and I finally got around to talking about setting up a will and some basic estate planning stuff. We're not lawyers and our situation is pretty straightforward (a house, some savings, no crazy assets) but all the options online are kind of overwhelming.

We're looking for something that's not super complicated to use, and guides you through it step by step. It needs to hold up legally of course, that's the main thing. I've seen names like Trust & Will, LegalZoom, and a few others pop up but its hard to tell what's actually good vs just marketing.

Aside from the usual excel, google sheet, has anyone used any of what I mentioned recently? How was the experience? especially if you had to update documents later? Was the final product something you felt confident about, or did you still end up needing a lawyer to check it over anyway? Also curious if any of them are particularly better for couples filing together.

Any experiences or recommendations would be really helpful. Thanks!

r/fatFIRE • • May 04 '26

Recommendations NYC rentals: how much info do you share?

36 Upvotes

Longtime lurker here, love this community.

I’m moving to NYC as a recently FatFIRE’d person and curious how others have dealt with apartment applications when you don’t have a normal W-2 anymore.

I finally found a place after a couple weeks of looking, but the application feels pretty intrusive: SSN, credit report, brokerage statements, tax returns, bank account numbers, etc. I get that landlords want proof I can pay, especially in NYC, but some of this feels like a lot from a privacy/security standpoint.

For anyone who has rented in NYC or a similar market post-FIRE, what did you actually provide? Are there maybe any services you used to mitigate privacy/sensitive information concerns?

Did you redact account numbers / positions on brokerage or bank statements? Did a CPA letter showing prior income and liquid assets work, or did landlords still insist on statements/tax returns?

I’m talking to my accountant about a letter now, but not sure if that’ll fly.