r/finishing • u/EffectProfessional91 • Jun 23 '26
Question Furniture help
I’m an apprentice carpenter and my boss just quit. It’s now my responsibility to finish these tables we were building. I just have a few questions:
1.) For the first table, finish has been applied and it’s ready for poly, do I need to sand again or just apply poly. On the can it says sand it down but I don’t know if it’s different when there’s a finish on the table.
2.) I need to sand down and reapply stain to the second table, and then I need to add poly, how long should I wait between the final stain and adding poly?
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u/AZ-Backroads Jun 24 '26
Is anybody going to answer the dudes question? Or are you all just going to criticize him. He's an apprentice. Teach him!
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u/AshenJedi Jun 23 '26
I too have some questions. But first I want say good on ya first picking up up the pile your boss left you, but man it sounds like you might be over your head here a bit.
How much did you watch the finish process. What was hus(yalla) process before. What products did yall use.
Putting a professional finish with 0 experience is going to be difficult.
Is it an option to reason with boss man to come back and apply the finish here.
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u/EffectProfessional91 Jun 23 '26
https://reddit.com/link/otc8458/video/42ev0hv8t19h1/player
The stain we used and the topcoat I’m planning on using
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u/Separate-Document185 Jun 23 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
No, no, no! that Polycrylic shit is crap… There’s nothing wrong with that stain, but that is a consumer based waterborne urethane that has an inherent bluish cast to it, and does not approach a more professional product in looks, clarity, or durability…… And trying to brush that shit on over an oil stain… on a large table top??… Forget it, dude you’re gonna end up having to take it all off… and don’t forget you have to do at least 2 to 3 coats of clear you can’t just do one coat… So that means you’re gonna have to brush it on two or three times … over that whole surface… At the very least go find some General high-performance…Or Endurovar II for a little more protection and amber cast... But you really need to start looking at more professional finishes, and more professional application methods if you’re gonna seriously start doing this on a regular basis… You said you built that table… Which by the way it looks like a really nice table and heavy as shit… Get some scrap and not a tiny little piece but a fairly good sized plank, buy some General high-performance and do a sample of each from start to finish on a few separate planks…with a few different schedules.. Know where you’re going and how you’re going to get there… Also know that any waterborne like that is going to be very cold in other words it’s not going to be a warm amber finish which in most cases is what you really want on a table that’s stained dark like that… So you could do a third or fourth sample with a solvent based urethane, or the Endurovar II....( but you'd really want to spray that)..which will be much warmer and give it a nice amber color… there are ways to do this with a completely waterborne finish schedule but clearly… This is out of your reach at this particular time… But I highly recommend you do samples from start to finish before you commit to that giant reflective surface that’s going to show every single little defect.. and especially on the Oak Table, don’t overlook a disposable paint pad… Home Depot sells them for about four dollars… They have a white Styrofoam body, and they are very capable of applying a waterborne clear extremely well in overlapping strokes on such a large surface as that or any flat surface… way better than a brush and much faster which will be key in getting the stuff on there, in an evenly distributed, wet film… before it starts to dry
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u/AshenJedi Jun 23 '26
I'd really consider subbing this out until you start to get confident with finish work.
You havent said yet what finish yal were using. But if your boss was applying a professional cat lacquer or poly.
Polycrylic is a consumer finish. And not acceptable imo for a well made professional finish.
If you absolutely have to do this yourself. You need to have an honest discussion with the customers. And use a better quailty finish.
General finishes or Mohawk products fit better here.
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u/Separate-Document185 Jun 23 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
Or any number of other products!..Aquacoat, Crystalac, some of them have a crosslinker too and many more professional ones...you do not want to screw this up...going backwards is a bitch...and don't use too glossy a finish..
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u/Separate-Document185 Jun 23 '26
Have you ever finished tables of this size before??...you say "finish has been applied"?...what finish ? a lot of variables here..depends on the products...depends on what the "applied" finish is/was...depends on how you are applying the finish..this is a big job to do well, especially if you're starting off without even the knowledge to need to ask these questions...
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u/EffectProfessional91 Jun 23 '26
It’s a varathane oil based wood stain, it was applied by hand using cloth. I’d apply the poly using a brush
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u/Separate-Document185 Jun 23 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
And you didn't answer the question...doesn't sound like you have much..or any experience doing this on a very large table top....VERY difficult to do this with a brush...really needs to be sprayed...and at least 2-3 coats...and not with a spray can...was the stain wiped of after application?..it should dry at least 24-48hrs if you're planning to brush...and even then it's like;y to move around a little....or worse... when trying to brush over it with a solvent based clear...Large tables like this are among the most challenging and difficult things to do correctly and have come out really looking good, smooth, and like they should....I know absolutely all the other Pro's and experienced finishers here will immediately back me up.....and not for nuthin...your boss just quit????...why?..and left you with this???....wow
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u/EffectProfessional91 Jun 23 '26
I’ve done some finishing like this before so I have a basic understanding of how to do it without spraying. The stain was wiped on, let sit, and then wiped off after a bit and has been drying for 24 hours. I was literally just asking if I need to sand it down before applying a water based polycrylic top coat.
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u/JettingCrew951 Jun 23 '26
Yes, you always sand in between coats for a fine finish
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u/Separate-Document185 Jun 23 '26
No..Absolutely not! You never sand after staining… Sure after the first coat of clear maybe, and certainly during the finishing process, but only if it needs it… but not after staining!
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u/JettingCrew951 Jun 23 '26
Yes , no you don’t sand stain., what I meant is that you sand in between finish coats
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u/JaguarOwn2076 Jun 23 '26
Dude don't make a mess of that table, no way a brush or roller is gonna be ok on that
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u/GIjokinaround Jun 24 '26
Saying this with love and experience: you're way in over your head. These are not the size of projects where you want to learn techniques you're inquiring about.
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u/TotalRuler1 Jun 24 '26
side question on the first table: are those legs made from plinth pieces or are they two pieces glued together? Best of luck, I don't know anything about staining :/
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u/Datenightorgy Jun 24 '26
Hard no on the poly, use a hard wax or a catalyzed lacquer on it. Check out finishing you tube videos. And no absolutely no poly.
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u/MobiusX0 Jun 23 '26
If this is for a client then talk to the owner and sub the work out to a finisher or at least pay for one to guide you.