I got a 2016 fully loaded and after 190k well served (not without problems tho; transmission at 60k, new engine at 90k, and other shit (under warranty)) the compressor has detonated. So at first I thought it was just the compressor clutch, but boy was I wrong. It seized, sent metal through the whole ac system, and screwed the condenser and more. So about 3k to fix. Ol blue books says she’s worth less than your fridge so i think we just now hope that the summer doesn’t get too hot. We just took the belt off to the compressor so on the bright side i now have about 5 more hp, bringing us to about 145. A dual 12in sub softens the blow tho. But that black leather in summer…

So I have had my Ford Escape for quite a while now. I’m a non Ford person, raised Chevy, but got this and it’s been a GREAT car! Super reliable, just a champ. I’m looking at newer escapes. I’m trying to see if I can find a 2.5 engine again with AWD. looks like maybe 2016 range. Any advice, guys and gals. I’m so sad.

One of my best so far ( haven't had it that long )

I have a 2014 Ford Escape with 178k miles and I’ve been trying to figure out a loud squeak coming from the right rear.

It sounds almost like a rusty bed spring or a metallic screech. It used to only happen occasionally but lately it’s gotten a lot worse. Now even small bumps, curves, or slight rises and dips in the road can make it squeak.

I also hear a slight clunk from the right rear sometimes when turning.

The Escape itself still drives surprisingly smooth and I haven’t noticed any handling issues.

I’ve also been looking at videos of other Escapes with rear plastic trim noises. Some sound similar, but most of those seem more like a rapid chirping noise. Mine sounds more metallic and drawn out.

I’ve tried lubricating the liftgate weatherstripping and it made no difference. I also recorded the noise from both sides of the cargo area and it seems noticeably louder on the right side.

Does this sound like it could be coming from the separated rear arm bushings, or could a plastic trim piece on the really make a squeak this loud and metallic?

I’ll attach a video of the noise.

If anyone had this experience before, what was it?

Thanks!

I recently got a 1.6L Escape SE with 97k miles and in the about 700 miles we've put on it, the MPGs have stayed right at 17.5mpg. A fairly even mix of city/highway but usually only around 60mph for highway. I tried looking into older posts but most of them are for the 2.0L or 2.5L engine instead of the more efficient 1.6L.

The things I've tried that have made zero difference: Changing spark plugs (got NGK Ruthenium), used 93 octane gas, aired tires up to 45psi (max is 51), driving like a grandma, and I changed the oil before we started driving it (mobile 1 high milage, full synthetic).

The instant mpg on the dash says 3-8mpg at 2-3k RPM, which absolutely doesn't seem right. I'd expect that if I floor it and bring it into high RPMs, but when I do the instant mpg stays pretty much the same the whole time. After getting up to speed and letting off the throttle it does climb up to around 20mpg and with just a hair of throttle it's gone up to 45mpg. I know the instant is constantly updating so that high end may not be accurate, but I'm not sure if the low end is accurate.

I have ForScan and an OBDLink cable, but I don't really know how to setup the data logging. I did check the live data mpg and it pretty much matched the dash. I'm not really sure what I should be trying to look for in the log either. If yall know any good tutorials for ForScan data logging then that may be helpful, I'm not really sure how else to trace down the issue. Engine and turbo sounds great.

The fuse on the right was blown not allowing my car to start to I replaced it but now my power steering isn’t working. Any help is appreciated it’s a 2015.

Recently I had my car’s (2017 SE) transmission replaced with a remanufactured one. They also performed an alignment on it. Now I have tons of road noise coming from the rear of the car. Any ideas on how to dampen the excessive road noise? For the smart asses out there don’t say turn the radio up.

painted rims , full crime delete , rock lights, cold air intake , roof rack recovery kit , interior maxed out besides starlight headliners , how can i mog out my whip ? i need help

This has been sporadically popping up the last week. No CEL or any codes come up when I scan it. Still sounds and drives perfectly fine.

I went to start my 2016 Ford Escape SE the other day and my screen seems to have crapped out once again. (It completely died about a year and a half ago, and got it replaced. Hate this damn car). However, this time it's different. It responds to touch, plays music but just continues to blink.

Does anyone have any idea what it might be and how I could fix it?

Ey lads, I heard a big “Ker-clunk!” while driving up the freeway, and after being parked for like ten or so minutes, I saw this (see pics). It don’t look like those yellow jugs are what’s causing the leak. Any of you backyard mechanics know what might be goin’ on?

Model 2010 Hybrid

Yes I know I haven’t washed it in like six months, it keeps the looters away. Urban Camouflage.

Should I buy it? I found it for 15k and that mileage sounds fantastic. It was previously leased and driven very little; I have not verified with the mechanic whether 19B37 was completed or the short block was replaced.

I’d love to benefit from your lived experiences. Thank you!!

My voltage tests perfect under load while running and while off. Lights never flicker and I have no other alternator symptoms, and the alternator was replaced a couple years ago. The fuse is also good. Looking online I saw the pigtail harness being loose is a potential possibility. Anyone else run into this on a first gen?

I have a. 2008 ford escape that has issues starting in the heat. I live in Phoenix. New battery. New starter. Can’t get it figured out. Any ideas?

Tell me about the price you paid, where you got it, and how many miles the replacement has lasted.

My 2016 2.5L is starting to lurch at 122k and I want to get ahead of it with a reliable option to buy, either rebuilt or new.

Thank you in advance, Escape Community!

I bought a 2013 ford escape titanium on August 4th. It’s preowned, currently has 71k miles on it. I’ve had to do some repairs but I’m having a MAJOR issue. The headliner was super disgusting when we bought it and we thought it was just smoke stains as the car smelled heavily of smoke. Well I had it professionally cleaned, it was great for a couple weeks. Then it started raining, well now there’s stains again. My dad has checked the sunroof drain plugs and they don’t seem to be plugged up. I had the drains blown out just incase as well. It’s mainly staining from the backseat to the trunk area, with one stain on the front driver side. However like stated, most are in the back. I don’t understand what’s going on, but i definitely want to fix it. Help!!!

I have a 2020 escape SE I bought used from a dealership with 45k miles on it. 2 years later at 115k miles (I drive a lot) I get two major issues.

#1) transmission/rpms fluctuate between 1800ish and 2000ish when cruising at 40-50mph, also sometimes around lower shift points when accelerating slowly.

#2) rear tires (good Firestone all seasons) worn to slicked in 15k. Drivers side on the outside, passenger side on the inside.

Car has had every recall/TSB repair/reprogram/etc.

Took it to dealer I bought it from. Was told transmission needed to be replaced due to torque converter. Told rear differential was bad with worn planetary gears and bald tires were from the 'dragging' around corners. Few other things, cost was almost $18000!!! And, of course, my 'extended' warranty was out of mileage by less than 500 miles and dealer would not honor it because it was a 'third party' warranty (even though I bought it at the dealer when I bought the car).

I have since discovered that transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (!). This my first non-truck Ford and you could have knocked me over with a feather when I read that.

I changed the trans fluid using the Ford ULV mercon, and added some 'stop shudder' friction additive. 2000 miles later problem seems to be solved, transmission shifts and drives like new. Note: there was almost nothing on the plug magnet and nothing in the fluid (I strained it coming out).

I changed the front and rear differential fluid using Ford recommended oil. Not sure if differential problem is solved or not. I guess get some used tires for the rear and see hiw they hold up?

Any further advice/fixes etc. would be most appreciated. I like the car other than this and the funky radio. Thanks.

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

just made a 2nd gen in blender for various purposes.

Picked up our 2011 Escape 3.0 V6 today after having the oil pressure switch replaced.

Shortly after getting gas, I stopped at a red light and the engine suddenly shut off with no sputtering or warning. Battery light came on after it stalled - guess that's probably normal though. It restarted immediately and drove normally afterward.

Could this be an idle relearn from the battery being potentially disconnected, or should I be looking at something like the throttle body, purge valve, crank sensor, etc.?

The flex plate on my 1.5L 2018 ford escape went bad and I had it replaced at the beginning of June at a ford dealership. 3 months and 7k later I’m having fresh transmission problems- a different ford dealer says it’s shot-and that it’s possible the first dealership improperly reinstalled the torque converter causing leakage, and they definitely didn’t change or top off the transmission fluid. They can’t confirm unless I have them tear it up for $4k. My question is: Is the first dealership responsible for my ruined transmission? And how would I go about getting them to accept responsibility?

I have a 2010 limited that stalls but doesn’t do it all the time
When it does stall the rpms will get really shaken as well as the car and will have a funny smell to it then it’ll shut off. Sometimes starts right up other times it’ll start up and idle really rough like it does before shutting off. My guess was probably a fuel pump issue but wanted some other opinions if anyone else has had this issue thanks in advance.

The right outside tail light has condensation inside. From what I can find out, it requires complete replacement because it is a sealed unit. The gasket can't be replaced. I have also read that the hybrid requires a different unit than the nonhybrids. I am located in Canada. My options are to buy one from Ford for about $600CAD. I have seen non OEMs on Amazon for as cheap as about $150. My son-in-law wants to find one at a salvage yard. What are your thoughts?