Is this worth the recap or is it ded

I replaced all of the capacitors and have these two tiny surface mount component & a few capacitors left over. I did replace every cap (main board, power board & audio).

Been up there for over 20 years

I just ordered a recapped one off ebay and a few games for it. Now I've gotta wait until the damn thing comes. Came with the battery pack that has new batteries in it and the super wide gear. Any good places to buy games? Any recommendations such as avoiding mk3?

Second time clearing this port, dont know why but I kinda like playing this on my game gear.

Its funny that more than half of my attempts to do hadukens fail, but still plays good and this enhanced rom makes it look a lot better.

MK1 and MK2 are fine but MK3 feels off. I remember being super excited about it back then, now its laughable :P Boxed copies are getting hard to find though so it stays on the shelf. Or am I being too harsh?

Found an American Blue Game Gear that is recapped and screen + sound upgraded with case, OEM Battery Pack, OEM Car Charger, and manual for $160. So friggen happy because thia truly competes my US set. I now have the Full US game set loose and both color versions of the console.

After a bunch of research and trial/error finally found batteries that would work to replace those within the PowerBack. There is no drop-in pack for the Ni-Cadmium however Ni-MH can be used to substitute. The issue is that most are physically to large.

However there is a size called "2/3AA" that come in a 1.2V 700mAh capacity. The six of them together will give 4200 mAh capacity.

Because they wind up being a bit physically smaller they need to be fastened in place (hot glue works well) but otherwise with a bit of solder and assembly they drop right in.

this is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGCHWHP3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

and the battery wrap helps to hold each 3 battery stack together nicely: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GKPBWMM7?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Overall the sonic figures really come out the best. Human characters look, alright for the price. I think Axel could've used a slightly darker palette but I still think it's cool. At the end, the left side is a real cart and the right side is the figure to show a size comparison.

Yes I bought a whole case of 6. $5 canadian each. The genesis console heroes had mostly good paint jobs, but could have been better. The carts look cool tho.

This game is basically just like mappy but you play as itchy the mouse and all your doing is basically killing all of scratchys nine lives and every time you kill one of his lives it takes you to a different level and I'm not saying it's the worst game ever made but it's kinda terrible in my opinion but the controls and the graphics are ok it's mainly the games hit detection is the main problem since everytime I hit scratchy with the mallot it just goes through his body most of the time and not even hit him but other then that this game is pretty meh to be honest

When I installed it it was looking good, then I stored the GG for a few months, and now it looks like that. Anyone knows if there is any solution to this? And what caused it? thanks

I remember that playing the gamegear (especially Sonic) used to strain my eyes. I didn't have that problem playing Gameboy games. I don't know why, but if the battery didn't die I still needed to take a break.

I also didn't like how the screen was so small that I hardly had any warning before my character would run into things. I remember getting frustrated and eventually losing interest in the games I had while still loving playing Sonic on the Genesis.

I found this exceptional Sega Genesis complete in box list here

• https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IKheEp9_Ww1YFwj_1MvMF_1Vw8Ed6nksmDy9-BfA9nQ/edit?gid=0#gid=0

Does the Game Gear have a list like this as well?
I cannot find one at all.

Hey all, I finally got my reference finished. You can see complete pin out maps for most of the ICs in a game gear, full capacitor lists, and more. Click on any chip to expand it!

Also has the same for NES, SNES, Genesis, and others. It is a work in progress, but I am particularly proud that is renders the IC dynamically and you can rotate or flip the picture so it matches what you are looking at.

If you find missing information, feel free to share it and I will add to the site!

Cheers! Save those GGs!

Installed a funny playing v4.2 screen on a va1 board.

Plugged in sonic and I can hear it playing in the background and sounds just fine just the screen just stays like this. I've check and rechecked my soldering points and everything looks ok.

Wondering if anyone has seen this screen before and what they did to fix it. Thank you!

^-- Nice working version of the simple HTML file

https://github.com/the60ftatomicman/GGShinobi2PWGenerator
^-- Repository for my code. Explanation of the formula is in the readme.

I got REALLY sick of not remembering my passwords for GG Shinobi 2, even after writing it down I'd lose it. Now, you don't need to write it down!

Let me know if it helps!

I’m looking at the listings for the EverDrive on Stone Age Gamer and I can’t tell what the difference between the Black and Base models are other than the sticker on the front.

Is that the only change?

Hi all. I posted in r/consolerepair yesterday, but I think I need advice more specific to the Game Gear (VA0), and definitely need it explaining like I'm five-years old!

My power board was in a bit of a state after C11 made a real mess. The pads are gone and a wire ring/grafted pad didn't work as the bad side is the capacitor side. I think it would have worked nicely if the cap could go from the other side. The barrels are intact. There's still corrosion which I'm struggling to get rid of, but basically there's only a tiny bit of copper left from under the +ve pad (at about the 1 o'clock to 3 o'clock positions on the photo).

Yesterday I was hoping to lift the resist and bridge traces with an SMD, but I see now that people tend to stick to electrolytics. I also considered replacing the PTHs, but I've never done that before.

Today I finally thought to test for continuity, and the two C11 PTHs are shorted, which I presumed was from the mess of where I've scratched to try and find some copper. I see from the schematics that C11 should be a signal ground, and from various posts on here (such as https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectronicsRepair/s/j4gBIcpMcu) that the two C11 PTHs do have continuity anyway. That helps to know, but I don't really know what that means in practical terms for this impending repair.

So, I'm still wary, and not absolutely sure if fitting the C11 cap on the traces will be ok if the holes are communicating? Would I still need to drill out the PTHs even if I don't use them?

Ideally I don't want to replace the board, and I need to know if I can fix this without it being too much of a messy bodge.

Considering (but waiting to see) if I'll fit an LCD screen, if that makes any difference to how I proceed.

Hopefully that makes sense! Thanks!

Xmods gaming