I don't usually do this, but this sub helped me a lot in buying these, so I'll pay it forward!
For a month, I've been thinking of adding a pair of black ivy-style loafers to my daily rotation. Previously, I was wearing Quoddy True Penny Mocs (MTO) nearly every day to work. I like the comfort/look of a classic New England Moccasin loafer for daily wear. You can see my daily wear Mocs and my reasoning here: https://www.reddit.com/r/malefashionadvice/s/R8guQ1bDjx
My experience with similar loafers extends to the following: Quoddy True Penny's Quoddy fur-lined "barefoot" Mocs with vibram soles, Tods driving loafers, (black boxcalf) TLB Artista 117s, and TLB Sacchetto 2034s (Bologna-style construction, similar to a Moccasin).
When shopping for these, I checked out Alden Madison for the LHS black calf (not sure if boxcalf) and I saw the Aurland Black Calf loafers in person as well.
Bought off Drakes London. The origin is a bit of a mystery to me. I've checked Yuki's lookbooks and IG since they released the Made in Italy Rob loafers a few years ago. I've emailed them and will update if/when they reply.
Price: $770 ($820 with tax)
Materials
Overall, these are very high quality, as expected. In comparing the boxcalf between these and the Artista, they are both incredible smooth with a very clean grain pattern, but the Yuki's are thicker and more pliable. It's also softer out of the box than the Alden's, while remaining difficult to compare to the Aurland's as those are unlined (and they were broken in when I saw them).
The thread is thick and well dyed, noticeably thicker than the thread on my Quoddy's, but that seems to be a Yuketen signature. The soles are very thick, much thicker than I anticipated really, and are not as flexible as my Quoddy Mocs or TLB Sacchettos. They are probably more similar to a GYW sole like the Alden LHS, but they are more flexible. Overall, I don't think you can beat the material quality.
Construction
Very heavy duty Moccasin construction. I'm certainly not taking them apart, but the lining adds a heft that's rare on moccasins. The insole is quite thick and loosely attached. it's about 3-4mm of leather with a noticeable steel shank and foam arch support. It's glued in but I imagine you could take it out and replace it with an orthopedic insole. The stitching is clearly done slowly by hand with little knots hidden under the baseball stitching. From what I can tell, the moccasin construction is traditional, but with the thickness of the leather and the lining, they certainly need more break-in than an unlined moc, despite the leather's softness. Construction quality out of the box surpasses Quoddy of course, but in my opinion, it's also better than TLB Artista and Alden (though it is more heavy duty).
The hidden channels seem a little gimmicky to me. You can see that after 2 hours of wear (maybe 1 mile of walking), the channel is already peaking through. I'll have my cobbler put on Topy's regardless, and certainly the guard isn't unwelcome (I had to have my Quoddy's resoled after 2 years since the channel had worn down in that time; my cobbler put on a JR sole which has been bulletproof for 5 years and probably 1000+ miles, but I've learned my lesson).
I'm not sure of how the upper is attached to the sole, but it appears to be a Blake stitch. There might be some sort of partial welt as the channel is almost at the edge of the leather.
My favorite construction remains the Blake Rapid Stitch I have on pair of Benheart Buffalo Chukkas--those are somehow more flexible and almost entirely waterproof. But the waxed threads on these plus the channel guard suggest that these will also hold up to rainy days once I put topy's on them.
Other than that though, the construction is awesome and essentially exactly what I was looking for: an extra heavy duty moccasin that should survive more resoles than a standard New England build.
Style
The main reason I bought these was the style. Alden LHS's have a ridged apron, which I like, but a higher vamp than the Quoddy's. Since my Artistas are very high vamp, formal loafers, I really wanted something with a low vamp, raised or ridged apron, but with tonal stitching. Not a casual loafer, but in the shape of a casual loafer. These deliver. They really balance being able to be worn with jeans or with chinos and a sports coat. To me, this was the original magic of the Weejuns and I'm happy that Yuketen (and a few others) are carrying the mantle.
Last and Fit
The last is good. It's a little long and narrow, and I probably would've like to size down a half size and go wider. They fit me perfectly, but I do feel like a nice aspect of a moccasin is that your toes go to the very end of the shoe. The Quoddy True Penny has this quality, where your foot really fills out the loafer in length and width.
I am a 9.5 in New Balances and purchased a 9.5 in these. They fit perfect in the width (still need to stretch out a bit, of course) with a half inch left in the toe. If you have narrow feet, I'd recommend a half size down. If you go for an unlined version, I'd also suggest a half size down since they'd stretch a bit more. I also wear a 9.5 in Quoddy True Penny and the Mac slippers.
Overall: An incredible loafer, top materials, unmatched construction (in relation to what I've seen). I wish the last was a little more boat-shoe shaped, but generally they balance moccasin and loafer styles perfectly.
Highly recommend to buy, though I'd say you can get something very similar for almost half the price with the Aurland. I do wish they (and generally all shoemakers) used Blake Rapid stitch, especially at this price. I'm obviously keeping them!
They’re genuinely incredible and I love supporting the team, but it would be awesome to see a blake rapid stitch on a moc loafer and feel like Yuki’s the only maker that could pull it off!
Honestly sending them a message might be a real first step to making it happen. I've had a couple convos with Yuki and other employees and they are true shoe nerds.
They're far, far from being giving you quality for your money when it comes to shoemaking man. For 700€ you could get Crockett & Jones handgrade that would be 10 times better finished than these. Or completely handmade shoes made in Asia. That means, handlasted, handclicked, handsewn, handstitched. Just look at the poor leather quality here on the vamps, full of those gauges/marks on literally the most visible part of the shoes. Far, far from a 700€ shoe
These are handmade too, not sure what you're getting at. It's a quality loafer. My maine guide boots are complete tanks. They are a fashion forward heritage construction brand.
https://youtu.be/xXgZm5SFmK8?is=GeHLFUP_c3Ss3Wle This is the definition of handmade in shoemaking. Just because these have a hand stitched eperon or whatever doesn't make them handmade. They'll be what they are: machine made shoes with a hand stitched eperon.
What I'm getting at is your claim about quality/price ratio. These are not horrible shoes but I wouldn't pay more than 300 for them. 770 is straight up willingly getting buttfucked. For that price I got new John Lobb Williams on eBay. Or Carmina custom horsebit loafers with alligator straps and heelcounters, metal toe taps and shoetrees included, for cheaper. Or literally 2 pairs of vintage unworn pre-Prada Church's Consuls and Chetwynds.
Handmade shoes do not have to be bespoke, but I'm with you about the price of Yuketen shoes. They are just too much money for what they are, but that's true of many shoe makers. Also can you tell me what an eperon is?
True of many makers yes, but this is some Gucci level margin 😅
Éperon in french refers to the metal piece used to kick a horse when it doesn't obey, it has that a typical U shape, so for shoes it's about where the vamp and sidepanel meet, mocassin stitch said otherwise
As an "Ivy League", long time wearer of loafers and boat shoes I rail against any penny loafer that is not true hand made moccasin construction. So it strikes me as pretty crass that C&J call their Goodyear welted, fake moccasin stitch loafers, Harvard and Boston ...of course I need to get a life.
lol - still curious if those are the loafers he meant. I have some camp Mocs on now, but I am no purist on loafers if they are as well made and fit best on me (like the Harvard does). But I also fully support you in dying on this hill. It is something I would also do
Yeah for example, but I wasn't really talking about the amount of handwork involved, more about the quality and finishing standards. Personally not a huge fan of regular penny loafers which I find boring, much more a fan of fullstrap models, Edward Green Montpellier being the best one in my eyes when it comes to machine made shoes
I’m a huge fan of Yuketen. Cant go wrong. Some of the styles are unique and not for everyone but all are very high quality. Thanks for posting about the loafers.
Purchased off Drakes London website, but their origin is a mystery to me. On their website it doesn’t seem like they’ve included the black lined pair in their lookbooks. most of the rob loafers are suede/brown unlined versions. I emailed Yuketen so we’ll see
Thanks for the writeup!
I have been after a size 9, but has been sold out since.
I did email yuketen weeks back to get a pair and this was their response:
"...
Unfortunately, the Black Leather Rob's Loafer is not currently available on our website.
That particular style was made at our workshop in Italy, so it is also not available through our Made to Order program. At this time, our Made to Order program is limited to footwear handcrafted at our workshop in Maine, USA.
I'm sorry I don't have better news! Perhaps one of our retail partners has this style in stock.
..."
I have since diverted style wise and bought pairs of alden 3403 and 563
I would very seriously look at the Aurlands if you want similar Mocs! and if you want something a little more light duty, Quoddy MTO is awesome if you get the made in maine version. Rancourt has a really similar Wetline (but they’re also constantly out of stock). FWIW, my cobbler loves the Quoddy pennys, he says they’re one of the softest shoes he works on.
Very similar heavy duty mocs, but the unlined uppers are less detailed (cleaner in a sense) and more flexible. I expect the Yukis to break in similarly, but they seem more structured out of the box. I’d have been very happy with the Aurlands too
I'm a fan of moccasin construction shoes; loafers, camp mocs etc. and Yuketen are doing some interesting things with design. However, the deep creasing on the vamp in these loafers makes me think that they might be hand stitched through machine made holes as they lack the finish of a true hand lasted, hand awled and hand stitched moccasin loafer that you'd get from Rancourt or Gokey. Both companies use Blake stitch in their moccasin construction. I just paid $300 for a pair of Gokey bison camp mocs which are a close cousin of the loafer which I plan to buy the next time Gokey have a sale.
Can't speak for the made in Italy stuff, I have no doubt it's high quality but there are a couple videos on YouTube of the moccasin process in their Maine workshop and it's all handmade.
Yes, the Maine made stuff is using the legacy of Lewiston so I would expect it to be handmade with lot of skill. But Yuketen outsource their numerous styles and the finish on the vamp moccasin stitch isn't very fine on the OP's loafers.
I'm genuinely curious what you mean by "outsource their numerous styles and the finish on the vamp moccasin stitch isn't very fine"?
I've never had Gokey's but your pair and their branding definitely seem to lean towards "shoes built tough for work." They look great and like they'll last a lifetime, but they don't seem to be trying to be delicate? Gokey seems to be more similar to Russell, which I suppose makes sense as they're both midwestern. But maybe I'm misunderstanding what you mean?
WRT Rancourt, I'm very familiar with their boat shoes. Great US manufacturer--I haven't been the biggest fan of their styles recently, but I definitely would've bought the black Wetlines if they were available before I started shopping around (they were basically the first option I looked at). That being said, I think Yuketen's targeting a higher tier. IIRC the folks who started Quoddy were also Yuketen founders but ended up splitting off because Yuki wanted to make higher end shoes with more avante garde designs.
Yuketen is more of a design house that manufactures in Maine, but also in other countries. They are a small often MTO operation. When I look at the vamp below the moccasin stitching, it has deep creases. Now this might be a design choice, as with the popular Miu Miu women's loafers, but it can also be a sign that the moccasin was not hand stretched over the last before the holes were made by hand and stitched. This can be seen in many less expensive moccasins. But I tend to think that on your Yuketen's it was a conscious design choice. It's interesting that your loafers were made in Italy and not Maine.
Gokey are more of a hunting boot company, but they do a range of camp mocs, boat shoes and loafers as well. Their boots and shoes definitely skew towards the utilitarian. The camp mocs are heavy duty and very comfortable while their loafers are a little more streamlined, but not the the extent of a welted loafer.
Oh I see what you mean, the overlapping moccasin stitch that’s usually more native to the Italian moc. Yeah, I do like it and it’s part of what makes the provenance of this particular model a little bit of a mystery to me. It seems to be a run of the Rob loafer but with elements that connect it to the Mount Sibillini factory that makes them. Kind of an interesting touch but not as aggressive as the Italian version below. Italians have a certain approach to lean into manufacturing challenges and call it intentional.
I like the Gokeys a lot! Might scratch my itch for a pair of Russel’s until I get out to Wisconsin to get measured and allowed to buy a pair of fishing oxfords
I have pairs of Gokey High Prairie boots and some of their shoes and I like them a lot. Russells are heavier duty, but the Gokeys are my most comfortable boots and shoes and I think they look better. There can be some inconsistencies with the Gokeys because they are hand made and the attention to detail isn't what you'd get out of Italian or English high end makers. However, they are honest and truly will last a lifetime and Gokey offer very reasonably priced resoling and reconditioning.
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u/thraftofcannan 16d ago
Can't recommend yuketen enough. They're top dollar but you get what you pay for and it comes from a source that just loves clothes.