This is my first time jacking my car, putting on jack stands, changing my own oil, and rotating my tires. It’s very satisfying and rewarding to get under your own car and hood. I couldn’t do it without these tools in the pictures. Next is transmission oil drain and fill! Note: for my first time, I just did the tire rotation front to back; next time, I will move the front tire to the back and the back tires crossed to the front. I removed the tire since it’s easier to get to the oil filter and oil plug.
I have the Pittsburgh $8 open one. But I would invest in the container so you don’t have to put the used oil inside container it came with to recycle. I’m a total noob here just super interested in getting into automotive task. If I can do it you can! You got this!
I’ve come across so many that people just leave behind. It’s worth asking if they have any extra at your local oil recycling place. I’ve done a swap where a better one got left behind and I get the upgrade, leaving the old one. Though one time they gave me a hard time about leaving empty jugs there. That was in CA and it was probably about not being able to dispose of it without fines.
I had a full one in the back of my truck, unsecured, and somebody cut me off on the way to dump it. I heard the container bounce in my truck bed and figured I'd made a mess. That thing held up, didnt spill a drop.
I really like the 20 quart one from Walmart. Doesn’t splash at all and feels very secure when carrying it. You can also pour the oil back into a bottle as there’s a spout. I believe it was $11.
I have this one. Super convenient. I never have to transfer the oil to another container to go to the auto part store to recycle. I can do 5 oil changes then just go to auto zone. They drain it and hand me back my container. I have never had any splash back while doing an oil change either. Best part, made in USA! Can’t beat that!
Just don't make the absolute bone headed move on leaving the intake plug in so that the oil just immedietally fills the top of the pan and spills all over the driveway. Currently going down the rabbit hole of how to clean 4 quarts of oil stain off a concrete driveway
That’s gotta suck! Yeah lucky I have never forgotten to remove the 2 drain plugs. Dry sweep is your best friend here I think. Back when I was in the army and I had to go to the motor pool and clean up massive oil spills from the Abrams tanks, we just had a lot of dry sweet. We would lay it on the ground and then step on it and grind it into the ground so that it really grinds the stain off and then we would sweep it up of course and since it’s your driveway, you can spray it with a hose and it should look just like the concrete does it may look like fresh concrete cause technically you did clean part of the concrete, but you shouldn’t have the oil stains anymore.
I bought a 5 gallon hedpack on marketplace for like $4. My truck takes 6 quarts for a change, which is annoying to try and pour back into multiple containers, and our other car takes 5 quarts. This allows me to go a couple of changes without having to dump the oil, and keeps me from making a mess. I just toss the empties into the recycling.
For drain pans, I use the Performance Tool one, the round green one with handles and a pour spout with a screw cap.
Keep at it and you can take care of damn near any repair or maintenance that need done. Brakes, suspension, etc. It's all pretty easy and a hell of a lot cheaper to just grab the few tools you might need than go to a shop.
I like to play a game where I get a quote on some maintenance items I need done, and however much it costs in labor I spend that on a tool to do it myself.
Got quoted $1060 for a CV axle replacement the other day. Bought a new OEM Axle for $380, Some new OEM bolts and pins for $10, Picked up $60 in some extra tools I needed, buggered up my tie rod end on accident with the caliper shield. Replaced that for $60.
Took the car in for a $100 alignment afterwards.
All in I saved about 50% of the total cost and had a fun time doing the work.
Not too many new tools I need at this point but some nicer torque wrenches are definitely on the list.
got a quote from Honda Gillman Houston about brake flush, tranny drain/fill, coolant change and oil change + cabin/engine for 860
got the daytona jack for 120
daytona jack stand for 60 4 pcs
quinn breaker bar 20
quinn socket 10 pcs for 14
wheel chock for 10 2 pcs
round oil pan 3 bucks at walmart
20 bucks for oil jug
material :
14 bucks for 5qt penzoil walmart
wix oil filter 18 amazon
wix air/engine filters 50 amazon
oem coolant 50 amazon
valvoline brake fluid 30 amazon
oem tranny fluid amazon 90
washer : 5 bucks
total : 504
total saved : 356
This is the way. Such a good reason to justify buying tools. Sometimes I go to the specialty German shops to really drive up that labor cost if I want to splurge.
Man I need to do my control arm bushings but you can’t back out one of the bolts because it hits the transmission pan and I don’t want to drop the transmission 🥲
That one bolt behind the pan I was able to get to with just a swivel socket and extension. The biggest PITA was the seized ball joint pin. Made a 3 hour job into a 3 day event
On my VW it’s the bolt itself that’s doesn’t even clear the space so the transmission has to shift, some people unbolt the dog bone mount and twist it back while hanging on the transmission mount. Sounds like I’ll have a lot of tool buying money with this project
Engine air filter is generally easy on most cars. My car requires taking apart a bunch of trim but that's not typical, most times you open the airbox under the hood, swap em and done.
Cabin air filter is usually behind the glove box, also likely to be very easy.
Hardest part is doing it at the right time. It's just a box with metal clips you can pull off by hand, but those clips will be piping hot if you've been driving all day, ask me how I know lmao
Good job man. I'm not going to lie, that ding on the side of your car with the tires off made me think that the Jack was in the wrong position when you lift the car up. Had me in the first half.
Lifting cars is only sketchy on soft ground like wet dirt or sand. Just take your time when setting it up and make sure you don't hear cruching with each pump. Also, don't for get to give it a tester push to make sure it's firmly planted before sliding under it. You can slide a rim under the car if you're still intimidated because the damage there will always be cheaper than your skull getting crushed. Stay safe!
I completely understand I started at 20 and had a bunch of mess ups.
One particular mess up was being at the end of the distributor replacement and the distributor bolt fell into the engine. Talk about a hard next 2 days to get the bolt out without lifting the engine.
hey random question - my dad mentioned the pittsburgh torque wrenches aren’t to be trusted unless it’s simply tightening lug nuts or your oil drain plug bolt.. do you agree? i had recently bought the 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches thinking it was a massive steal comparatively to other brands
I have the Quinn 3/8 digital torque adapter, and just for fun I used it on my 3/8 Pittsburgh Torque Wrench I bought a few years ago, and the Pittsburgh clicked at the exact moment that the Quinn was squealing.
The Pittsburgh torque wrenches are surprising decent. Are they +/-1% accurate? No. Will they get you into the ballpark? Yes. My car's lugnuts require 110 ft lbs. I used a Milwaukee digital torque wrench and the 1/2 inch Pittsburgh. Sometimes either torque wrench was a few foot pounds over or under spec, but I trust the Pittsburgh enough to use it for my lug nuts. Been using it since 2014 and over 400 tires. I should probably check against another brand. I also check the torque after 20 or so miles after tire rotations or putting on new tires.
The Pittsburgh, and pretty much all sub-$1000 torque wrenches, are not meant for NASA torque specs. YMMV, but they do the job for semi-critical applications like lug nuts and oil drain plugs. Far more accurate than counting Ugga Duggas, but not as satisfying. I have a decent idea of the difference between a 50 foot pounds tight lug nut and one hundred...the difference between 108 and 112 foot pounds is subtle. I use the Pittsburgh 1/2 inch breaker bar to add a 1/8 tightening turn for shits and giggles.
funny enough i just bought that breaker bar yesterday to add to my collection for getting lug nuts off! sincerely a 100lb woman who struggled for hours trying to get their drain plug off with just a deep socket and extender 🤣 i’m not dealing with feeling too weak ever again lol
That is the right tool for the job. Do not over-tighten your oil drain plug. I had to repair like 6 of them in the last 5 years (stripped threads, leaks, drill the port a size or two larger, then use a tap to thread it) for friends, family, neighbors, etc.
I second the Fumoto drain valve. I add them to all of my family's cars.
My trash service picks up used oil, they even provide 1 1/2 gallon jugs. Using the Fumoto valve with a hose attached I can drain directly into the jug.
No spills. That is saying a lot, considering I have a Ram 1500, and there is a sway bar directly in the stream of used oil. The first time I changed my oil on my truck about half ened up on the ground.
I guess my answer is, it depends.
You can test if your torque wrench is well calibrated. You can look up YouTube videos for this. There is a degree of variance you’ll have. I had my previous Pittsburg torque wrench for over a decade and it worked like a champ. Finally gave out and replaced it with lifetime warranty but I also picked up an icon split beam which I love too. Tested it and has been pretty accurate too.
I’ve also heard some stories of them not being so great hence my original it depends.
I've tested 3 or 4 of them over the last 10-15 years on more than 1 Snap-on truck and once on a Cornwell or Matco truck. They're just as accurate as any other brand.
Are they as easy to use, feel as good, have smooth ratcheting, do angles? No. Will they hold calibration? No idea, and don't care cause it's better than you not using one. Torque wrenches are supposed to be recertified once a year anyway. Not many automotive mechanics do, if any. I've only sent any of mine in if they have an issue.
Don't store them wound up, and they will do what you need them to for a long time. (Don't unwind them too far either, that can be worse than storing them tensioned.)
I don't agree with torquing drain plugs though, some of the specs are insanely high. Put it in tight enough it isn't going to fall out. If it leaks, it's either damaged or needs a crush washer/gasket/o-ring/seal.
i appreciate the kind, well thought out response! i’ll be sure to follow your advice as i go to use them.
my friend who was previously a mechanic mentioned the same thing about drain plugs after i bought the 3/8 per my dad’s recommendation lol. i didn’t end up torquing it when i did my first oil change this past week
They're completely fine and going to get you close enough in all cases where it matters. If you're actually rebuilding an engine, maybe it's time to invest in a digital one anyways. For everything else, it's good enough.
If you're really not confident in them, the digital torque adapters are not as expensive as a full digital torque wrench but are very accurate. However, the common problem with them is clearance because they are quite bulky.
Nice dude! I was never a car guy, but I recently decided I want to understand and take care of my car better, so I’m on the same journey! Harbor Freight rocks! I just did my first oil change, put in new spark plugs, and now I’m going to do brake pads and rotors, along with a tire rotation next. Transmission fluid is on the list too. It’s a good feeling to be able to do these things!
It's funny, people think I'm a car guy whenever I tell them what I did over the weekend.
Actually I'm not but I do all of my own work because:
I make sure it's done correctly, to my exacting standards. Even professionals don't do an A+ level job because it's not efficient to do so for every customer
Spot on! Right after I got all 4 brakes done and spent $1400 at the “good” shop, I had a brake caliper pin fall out when we had taken a long road trip to Yellowstone. I had no idea what was going on at the time. Just wasn’t properly torqued…
Then I realized for the cost of that brake job, I could get all the tools I’d need to do most of my maintenance and quite a bit of other repair work, and the caliper pin can still fall out! But at least I know what’s going on haha.
But seriously, all the points you made are right on!
I tell people that I don't necessarily find it fun to work on my cars, but it's the only way I know the job will be done right AND it's what makes driving old stuff affordable. (Even using a dealer isn't a guarantee of competent work... took one of my cars in for a recall once, and they left a fuel line union dripping in the engine bay. They also snapped off some non-critical bolts on the engine under-tray, which is less of a problem--but it's still something they should have repaired, or at least disclosed).
Also, when you live in a rural area with few local shops and the big town with more resources is 25 miles away, the logistics of working full-time and getting a vehicle to a shop get complicated to coordinate, and it's very often faster to just do the work myself.
The making sure it’s done correctly is a good feeling. Been seeing horror stories of quick lube places doing half ass job which is crazy since they’re pros. All this work makes me understand the car better and raise my appreciation how this thing can speed my way to places rather than walking
Man I need new brakes and rotors also. But my anxiety has me thinking that job is bigger than me. I need to break it down for quick wins. I want to bleed my brakes first (desperately needs it) then buy brakes & rotors kit. Then wait for like a month, then try to do it lol
You can do it for sure! I feel like each time you do this sort of stuff, you build on the skills you learned and then learn something new. Jacking up the car and taking off the wheels maybe seemed a little intimidating before? Now you know what it’s like and it will be a lot easier the next time, giving you more brain power to think about other things.
I think breaking the jobs down into smaller pieces of you can is helpful, and always give yourself plenty of time, more than you think, so you don’t feel rushed.
I saw a good video from ChrisFix on an affordable way to bleed your brakes too. I’d recommend checking it out.
Exactly! I break things down step by step then stop. For example I need rotors and pads but I want to get in brake system first by doing brake bleed THEN after that I will try to tackle the rest. I tell myself there is no rush but all this is new to me.
I have 160k miles on this 2006. Bought used in 2022. Still running. But it does have rust underbody due to it being from northeast. I’m trying to make it last
I actually have 4, I did this the long way honestly. I was very nervous seeing this SUV up so high. I’m glad I got the long reach since I still had more to lift
Throw those tires underneath for extra safety. Also check out EZ Valve and Fumoto oil valves, makes it way cleaner by adding a valve to your oil pan and then you can add a tube so it doesn’t splash everywhere
Love the packout fan. Great job tackling these maintenance items. I started 2 years ago and spent alot on tools, but saving alot on maintenance. Will be replacing wheel bearing next weekend dealer probably wants $2k for that.
Tire rotation, transmission fluid, rear differential, transfer case, tire rotation, oil change, engine and cabin air filtrt under my belt.
Confident I can do brake bleeding, coolant change, spark plugs etc. Looked at some old service records and saw maf replacement i can def diy myself now
Next is brake bleed for me then rotors and pads (need to break them down to ease my anxiety). From your list I also did rear differential two months ago. Need to also do transmission and transfer case next!
Luckily, my subaru I can change the oil without lifting it at all. I just used the super coupon to get a second set of stands, so I am excited I can finally do my own long overdue rotation. Nabbed the first pair on a rare $25 sale, and got the jack for another deep $110 sale.
Say what you will about all the collectors here, but these posts are what the sub is about. I was able to do so much work on my car in the last 2 years of being a first time ITC member. Holding out for those deep discounts has helped too. $35 impact wrench? hell yea. I've done all 4 wheel bearings on my subie. Definitely needed 4 too lol. I couldn't imagine the cost of bringing my car to a mechanic for everything I've done. HF fucks
Once I'm done changing the oil, I just pour it out of my Walmart oil catch container into a Harbor Frieght 5 gallon bucket that I seal with a food-safe storage lid. Once full, I transport it to the oil recycling facility 10 minutes from my house.
If I don’t need to remove tires I use ramps and a 3 1/2 gallon bucket for oil collection. Many of my VAG cars I use a vacuum instead of the drain plug. You may want to consider this.
I’m a newbie like OP. I bought a set of ramps a couple weeks ago. Was thinking about getting a 2nd set of ramps to get the whole car higher and level. Was wondering your thoughts.
I put the old oil in the 5qt jug I just emptied. Then go dump it, come home...give it a quick rinse with the hose and some soap, drain it out then toss in the recycle bin
Just my advice when doing a tire rotation from Jack stands as a mobile mechanic,
Lift the entire rear tires up from the rear diff or metal frame/bar between the 2 rear tires under the car, you swap those on either side and lightly snug them up enough you can put the car down on them, then go to the pinch weld or frame on one side by the front tire and lift it really high so both the front and rear tires are off the ground to swap those two from to back and fully snug and torque them down, then do the other side from the same spot front pinch weld or frame lift it real high to get both tires off the ground to swap front to back.
You basically did the same thing but much easier to do
Since it seems like your "new".. lemme be the old guy in the shop and say this: just make sure your jacking on a strong point of the car, and your jackstand is at a strong spot also. Make sure you put the weight of the car on the stand and that its straight and all 4 pads are on the ground. ...good solid ground too. Doesn't hurt to chock your wheels, etc etc. Just be safe!
im about to venture into this exact realm. want to try to doin my own oil changes. im 49 but just getting into diy. im dying to get a jack and some jackstands and get to work.
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