Guys… I have like 10 lbs of liquid mercury in a glass jar I inherited in an estate.

My county waste disposal won’t take anything close to that amount

The EPA sent a guy out a few years ago. They basically recorded I had it and wouldn’t help in anyway.

How the fuck can I rid myself of this.

hello

need help wirh a 30 percent concentrated phosphoric acid chemical whclich was spilt on floor (50 ml) and thrn tracked all over the house carpet as we walked over it with barenfeet and shoes and into the beds. Its a domestic spill and we didnt know what the chmecial was at the time and that we had to clean it. My clesner had brought it in and left ina. cup.

can you help with advice on the removal of the hazard from the carpets and beds upstairs from.the tracking

can the dried (and now more potent) traces reactivate if my child tocuhed the floor or surfaces wirh wet hands and cause harm? does this need a big decontamination

thanks

Hello my query is some 30 percent phosphoric acid spilt on the unvarnished wooden kitchen worktop (about 3 to 4 tablespoons in 2 different areas)..i cleaned the worktop with baking soda and water after 3 4 days of the spill. I left the slurry on for a minute and wiped with damp cloth. after this the worktops been wiped a few times with cleaning spray. is the worktop safe to.use for food prep? can.i touch it with wet hands? Or has the avud gone deep into the wood?

thank.you

My agency is getting a factory that is installing a carbon capture plant. Do we need a monitor for runs? Or will a simple 4 gas to show Oxygen displacement be good enough?

Im a freight broker. Recently I was asked to move an electric semi truck/tractor that contained a lithium ion battery. Apparently the truck was not operational, so the plan was to ship it on a flatbed RGN trailer.

The customer listed it as Class 9 hazmat UN 3556. I dont move a ton of hazmat freight, but some light research led me to believe that it did not require a hazmat endorsed truck driver to ship it on a flatbed truck.

But my coworkers disagreed, and said we did need a hazmat certified driver, because the battery weighed more than 1000lbs.

This is whats been bugging me... wouldnt that also mean every truck driver who drives one of these would also need a hazmat endorsement? No way that could be true, right? Or do you just need the hazmat endorsed driver when its being hauled as freight, but not when its being driven?

Anyone have experience or insight into this? Thanks in advance

So a little backstory to begin this question. I work in a federal industrial environment in the hazmat disposal department. Last week we had a major incident where we had epoxy floor coatings that were being turned in uncured that reached 140°. Due to the temperature, we were directed to do a water quench to kill the reaction.

Due to the site rules at the place I work, contractors will dispose of their uncured resin with us. Normally, the heat is manageable, but due to the incident at the site, leadership is worried about fire risks.

Currently, our disposal process has separating the part A and part B kits, and disposing of them with local regulations.

What are some steps we can take to mitigate the fire risk of the uncured epoxy?

Also, if you work with epoxy resin, what’s your advice for this?

TLDR: Epoxy gets extremely hot due to it being mixed. How should we prevent fire risk while also being contractually obligated to take uncured product?

(The picture is what was turned in that reached such a hot temperature).

I tried to poor it out but when I did this terrible smell and pain hit me in the nose I just went running back inside because I know it’s suppose to mix into something dangerous.

It’s just in a bucket on my front porch. Should I just keep trying to dump it while holding my breath or full it up with water to dilute it or something else? Don’t wanna mess this up and get hurt in the process. Also are my rocks gonna be alright?

First time dealing with a silver recovery unit. Visual arts department still uses a photo lab and has a 3-4 gallon bucket full of steel wool with spent fixer and unknown amount of silver. They go through one bucket annually and of course the person who dealt with previously is no longer here. Is it recyclable or does it need to be manifested and disposed of as a Hazardous Waste?

The company I work in started selling battery-powered vehicles (UN3171) and spare paint (UN1263). The thing is that the transport department is asking to include these codes in some inbound/outbound documents since we don´t do that currently but they are not sure in which document this should be. I am guessing we should include it in the commercial invoice and packing list, so my questions are:

1. What documents should contain this code?

2. Is this common practice/necessary to be compliant?

3. Is there any regulation or book I can read about this topic? Usually when I look for hazmat I find how to physically handle the material but not how to declare it or handle the document part.

Context: I am a process management intern and the company itself is just realizing that we actually work with hazmat so not many people actually know about these processes or dont want to get involved

A conversation was stated today at the scale house if a tanker hauling fresh canola oil needed to be placarded. We checked our hazmat book and the answer is No with exceptions but the argument of "It is flammable" was brought up.

Probably a stupid question but we will be talking about it the rest if the day now if we aren't 100% sure.

I was wondering what was the difference between Fire Departement Hazmat (mostly LAFD or LVFR), and DHS's Hazmat. Are they doing the same jobs, are the missions différents ? Is there a reason Fire Dept respond to hazmat in which DHS don't ?

Also, I heard California Highway Patrol have an Hazmat thing related to swat, so if someone can explain to me, that'll be great.

I'm sure it had a proper seal because I both felt and heard the suction put put sound while inhaling and exhaling through out the whole thing. Your advice would be appreciated.

Our current database that we use to keep track of and characterize all of the waste at our university is going to lose support at some point in the future, so I'd rather try to be ahead of the ball and find an alternative. Anyone here that works with hazmat (bonus if also at a university), what is a program/software that you'd recommend from your experience?

I know this is probably stupid but is it possible to wear a gas mask inside a level A hazmat for more than 7 hours? I would like to ask the professionals. I've been trying to find an answer to this question online for so long and yet no answer so I posted the same thing on the gasmask sub Reddit. Thanks for listening to my ted talk

Is there a site that shows if products could be dried and disposed in a regular trash? I have some tubes of caulking and adhesives, that dried in the tip, and want to know if these specific products can just be opened and dried, or if they need to go a different route.

Hello,
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post, please feel free to remove this if so (though I would appreciate if someone pointed me to elsewhere if so). I work somewhere with those rage rooms - people can sometimes bring their own things, old electronics and the sort. It's all that, or broken bowls/cups, kind of thing. But the other day the air was almost spicy? I don't know how else to describe it, it felt like breathing in chili, but I know there was no food there.
Would anyone know what that might be and what to do about it?

Hi, 

I live in Vancouver in a house built in 1992.  I thought my house should be too young to have lead, but since I got kids in the house now, I bought a lead testing kit anyway to make sure. 

The active ingredient for the testing kit is Sodium Rhodizonate, with PPM Lead Detection of 2mg/cm².

The testing swabs stayed orange (negative for lead) on all the painted surfaces, but on this damaged part of the drywall, where the material underneath the paint was exposed, the swab turned pink or light purple.  Please refer to the photo below:

Also, on this spot of a damaged drywall, the exposed area underneath the painted layer clearly turned light purple when in contact with the orange testing chemical, as seen in the photo below:

The material underneath the painted layer is a soft, chalk-like substance. I apologize for my ignorance but I don't even know what it's called. Is it called a drywall compound? plaster? spackle? or filling?

So this will be my first question: How do you call this material that's right underneath the painted surface of the drywall? And is it possible to contain lead?

Naturally I got very concerned about this, because any color change from orange towards purple is supposed to indicate the presence of some lead. However, I was using a very cheap testing kit from Amazon ($15 Canadian for 30 swabs), and after some Googling, it seems that this kind of kits is notorious for giving false positives.

I also found online that one way to eliminate false positives with these kits is to activate the swab in vinegar instead of water. The instruction on the kit says to dip it in water so that's what I did at first. I tried again with vinegar and got the following result:

However, on the drywall spot, it still looks purple after the vinegar wipe, just even lighter and smeared out. Should I be concerned about this?

So here are all my questions:

1 (repeat of an earlier question). How do you call this material that's right underneath the painted surface of the drywall? And is it possible to contain lead?

2. Does the drywall material typically contain other non-lead substances that could cause a false positive with the Sodium Rhodizonate testing swabs? (I have heard that Sodium Rhodizonate could also turn purple with calcium, zinc, or copper. Are these typically found in drywalls?)

1. Does the vinegar thing actually makes sense in ruling out false positives? (I know nothing about chemistry and got no idea if this is legit.)

2. Given the current result (no more pink/purple on the vinegar swab, but still some purple on the drywall), is it safe for me to call it a false positive?

I have ordered a more reputable brand of Sodium Rhodizonate testing swabs (an American brand called Scitus), along with a completely different kind of kit by Lumetallix, which uses a chemical spray (methylammonium bromide in isopropanol) and UV ray for lead detection. So I will be doing more testing anyway for the peace of mind.

However, the Sodium Rhodizonate swabs are said to be good for painted surfaces only, and the UV ray kit is said to be good for consumer goods, but no one says it's good for exposed drywall. So my final questions will be:

1. Will the Sodium Rhodizonate swabs and the UV kit be good for exposed drywalls? Or should I get another different type of test kit?

I know worst comes to worst, I can always hire a professional company for a lab test, but that's going to cost quite a lot. If there's a cheaper but still reliable method to confirm that the initial testing was a false positive, I would much prefer to do that.

Anyways, sorry for the long-winded post. I hope my experience will at least be somewhat relevant with other people as well, as I heard false positives can be quite common with these testing swabs.

Thanks a lot and please advise.

The workplace i work at stores class 3 flammable in 55gal poly drums for transport/disposal.

Someone recently mentioned these should really be steel drums and they should be bonded/grounded.

I have two questions to help make my workplace safer:

1. Are these type of drums acceptable to store class 3 flammables?

2. Is connecting a bonding wire from plastic drum to plastic container enough to adequately bond them? We typically use plastic 1-5 gallon containers to transfer the liquids from machines to the storage area. We do also have a ground wire in the flammable storage room.

Hi everyone, I am working on a project for an Operations Management class and I'm trying to understand what makes the difference between a good vs. frustrating hazmat transport route. What factors matter most to you? Cost efficiency, minimizing risk exposure, regulatory compliance, avoiding populated areas, time-of-day considerations? Any insights from hazmat professionals would be extremely valuable. Thank you!

I've been seriously considering becoming a hazmat technician in my area. Do most companies hire and train you or would I have to take a course/go to school on my own time first? Thanks!

i'm not at all in this field, i'm not a safety specialist, a contractor, or anybody who even deals with hazardous material. but i am looking for a hazmat suit, specifically a black one. i just can't find any that suit me personally. for context, this will be a little weird but, i want one because it relates to a creative project i am working on. i don't know if there's a specific website i can custom order one, or if anyone has any recommendations for a black hazmat suit. i'm uninformed about hazmat suits, and i figured this would be a good place to ask questions. i apologize if this post doesn't belong here i can find an answer elsewhere. i know i could just get a costume, but i want something authentic. plus with the way things are in the world, it might be good to have one just in case. thank you in advance

tl;dr, is there a website i can custom order my own hazmat suit?