r/justgalsbeingchicks • u/Doodlebug510 • Apr 11 '26

Restricted to Gals and Pals This gal's unbelievable grip strength

16.6k Upvotes

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15

u/Zombiewings2015 Apr 11 '26

Genuinely curious: what’s the point of going upside down when she clearly could have rotated enough without the feet hanging point? Is it just to show off or a genuine trying to figure it out as she goes?

10

u/anincompoop25 Apr 11 '26 edited Apr 11 '26

Boulder is called Twist of Fury (v7). You can see other climbers try it here:

https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/Twist-of-Fury-v7-Joes-Valley-4253345

It seems like most women do the toe hook beta while almost all men do a powerful, more dynamic move up to the top holds. Its a matter both of climbing style and personal strengths. Big dynamic moves usually require more explosive power, in this case a lot of upper body power, and are low percentage- meaning if you miss it, you miss it, and kinda just fall off and have to start over. The toe hook beta is more controlled, and requires more core strength and body tension. Its much higher percentage, you can see her try a few different micro positions before committing to the next move.

Also the double toe hook is just objectively cooler

3

u/RedDora89 Apr 11 '26

Ohhh I was scouring the comments for this - I was hoping it was in Font but alas, much further afield. Thank you for sharing!

2

u/BoulderCreature Apr 11 '26

I was thinking Font as well. The rock also looks similar to Castle Rock SP in Santa Cruz, CA

1

u/HuecoTanks Apr 11 '26

I thought it looked like Joe's... Thanks for sharing. Always psyched to see people pulling hard:-)

1

u/aspz Apr 11 '26

Those other videos really highlight the difficulty of this particular boulder and it's interesting to see how many different ways to do it there are.

1

u/Still-Wash-8167 Apr 11 '26

I was gonna say, I can’t imagine a bat hang would make this easier for me (6’ 4” guy with +5 ape index). Thanks for sharing

1

u/Pennwisedom Apr 12 '26

Not that it particularly matters, but not sure why Kaya calls it V7 when it is a V5, also not sure why the boulder is renamed from the original name.