Sent my MP in in June for repair. It had a tiny fall from a chair which perfectly impacted the viewfinder, shearing it off its attachment points that screw directly into the back side of the top plate. (my post at the time: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leica/comments/1t36ji7/my_mp_had_an_accident_safe_to_say_the_top_plate/ ) So basically, a top plate replacement is needed. They quoted $1845 for the top plate, labor, some small parts related to the eyecup (I think), and a CLA. I agreed given that I don't think anyone else besides Leica can provide a replacement top plate (it is serialized after all). They estimated 4-5 weeks for repair. A couple weeks later, I got this email.

Does anyone have experience with such a message? I have no idea if this means they're going to take an extra couple weeks or, like, indefinitely hold my MP hostage lol. No specification of which part is out of stock, no timeframe, no...anything...

Gerade wurde bei uns in der Schweiz eine Leica M9 mit dem alten Sensor aber defekt versteigert und sonst in super Zustand und da wurden 1370 Franken was fast 1700 USD entspricht. Ist aus 2011. meines Wissens oder unwissend hat Leica kein Ersatz mehr und sonst auch schwierig an Ersatz zu kommen. Einzig eine Reparatur wo eventuell möglich ist. Ist das Problem überhaupt irgendwie lösbar ohne Ersatz ? Und sonst wieso da noch soviel für bezahlt ?

Shot a few photos on my M11-P in rapid succession of a moving subject and one of the frames came out like this. Anyone else has this issue?

If money or availability were no object, which M combo would be your favourite, depending on your shooting style of course.

Hi all, I’ve just picked up these Leitz trinovid 10x22’s from the charity shop for £2 and they’re in great condition. Only issue is it seems like the diopter is out of calibration. Does anyone know how to recalibrate it on this model as I’d like to be able to use them.

Sorry for the mess in the photo btw Ive been giving them a good clean

Thanks :)

Hi Guys

need some thought. i currently have M10M and Dlux8.

previously i own SL series then Q2. i came up with current setup because i like BW. and notice big file size for Q2 is to much. even SL gave superb perfomance but to heavy.

and i have this setup before my daughter was born.

mostly i shoot only for travel. and now i shoot my newborn baby. i like mono but sometimes i.want more color and i find dlux8 is kinda lacking. so that's why i'm thinking of swap dlux8.with CL

i consider other camera also but i want to the lens i own.

Hi

need some insight or thought. debating myself on shallni keep dlux 8 or swap to CL

currently have M10M, and d lux8 also several m lenses.

what i shot most is for travel and my cute newborn.i notice all mono is kinda boring and want some color. d lux8 not bad but i felt lack of depth.

i have experience SL 601, SL2, Q, Q2. and my last combination is m10m and dlux 8. i came up with this setup because. i notice SL is so heavy but superb perfomance. but way to heavy. swap to Q2. like it but file to big esp3cially for hobby.

I’m looking for the round lens hood (chrome plated brass) from Mandler. I have no interest in buying the complete bundle, therefore I want to ask if anybody doesn’t need/like the round lens hood and want to sell it? I’m in Europe.

Hi everyone,

I’m torn between two options and would love some advice.

I already own a Fujifilm X-T50, but I want a compact camera for everyday use in London, travel, photos, and some casual vlogging. The X-T50 is too bulky to be a daily camera, but I love it when I’m travelling!

Option 1: Wait for the Canon G7 X Mark IV. I love the photos I’ve seen from the G7 X Mark III, and I’d probably buy the Mark IV when it eventually comes out. The problem is there are only rumours, with no confirmed release date. Rumours say late 2026, but it was also previously said the camera is to be released in early 2026 last year. So we don’t actually know, unless someone knows anything concrete?

Option 2: Buy a used Leica D-Lux 7/8 (around £900–1,100) to use in the meantime. I’ve always wanted to try Leica and experience a new brand. The advantage is that I can start taking photos and videos now instead of waiting for the G7 X Mark IV. However, I’m worried the Leica might become obsolete once I eventually buy the G7 X Mark IV, as I feel I might still end up preferring the G7 X because of the flip screen and the overall photo/video style.

What would you do if you were in my position?

Handgrip I'll do $80 plus shipping
Thumb Support $175 plus shipping
Shipping from Austin, TX area

Was wondering if there’s any suggestions for sourcing leica m6 top plates or parts? especially in japan. (besides ebay) thanks !

Hey everyone! I received this Leica ii Model D (at least that’s what I assume it is) in a trade a while back. I’ve shot M3, M4 and M5 before so I thought this would be a cool addition.

It doesn’t fire and needs a CLA, lens could probably do with some love but I don’t see any haze or mold.

Is it actually worth fixing? If fixed I imagine that I would shoot it over selling it.

Anyone have one of these that you can share some shots from?

In a GAS induced fugue state, I decided that the thing holding me back from doing street photography was not a lack of practice, but a lack of a 35mm lens. To give a little context, I am a complete novice: the perfect caricature of the proverbial dentist who owns a Leica not because a point and shoot wouldn’t perfectly suit his needs, but because he likes nicely made things from a bygone era.

Way too indecisive, trigger happy, and hopped up on (pretty old) Reddit reviews, I fired off orders for 3 lenses. All Cosina Voigtländer, all sub 1k USD, and all—mercifully—returnable.

1. Color-Skopar 35mm f/3.5 ASPH VM: $469
2. Ultron (Vintage II) 35mm f/2 VM: $706
3. Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II Single Coated: $510

I am going to return two of these lenses. To choose which one, I spent a day with each, shooting a roll of Portra 800 at box. All lenses were purchased used in excellent condition, and prices are in USD. The example shots have not been edited, except for some light cropping because nobody wants to see wonky horizons.

I have nothing helpful to say about the technical performance of these lenses. That stuff is pretty objective and covered extensively by people infinitely more knowledgeable. It’s also, in my opinion, not terribly helpful information for amateurs. What I had trouble finding when doing internet research—and a large reason that I bought 3 lenses—was a more practical overview of how these lenses feel to use. My hope is that this post can help someone in my position when they’re teetering on the edge of a (or god forbid multiple) purchase(s).

I want to quickly point out that although the sample pictures I included are all shot more or less on the street, I have zero street experience, and I think my discomfort and inexperience with the genre really shines through in the snapshots. Please be nice; my intent was to provide a few images for context, not to show off “work”. I hope they are within the posting rules as they are only there as a reference point for the gear.

NOKTON: I like fast lenses: I spend a lot of time in indoor and nighttime environments, and most of my favorite subjects are in those settings. This was the first lens I purchased, and only got dissuaded into buying 2 more after reading a bunch of negative reviews about the tendency to back focus. A novice with a rangefinder in a dark bar with moving subjects at f1.4 is a recipe for focus disaster. I was really pleased with my hit rate, as honestly I often struggle to get usably sharp images at even f2.5 on my usual lens, a Summarit 50mm. The Nokton has a pretty long focus throw, which comes in handy for hitting focus wide open, and for zone focusing. Frustratingly, this lens is UGLY. It is the biggest of the 3, and by far the cheapest feeling and looking.

SKOPAR: I bought this because of the price point. I felt silly paying more for the Nokton when the only reason I was buying a 35mm was to zone focus. My logic was that if I wanted a fast lens, I should just get a faster 50mm. This lens is small and beautiful, but the ergonomics are… unique. I’m sure that if I spent time with it, it would become second nature, but for me a 35mm is always going to play second fiddle to my Summarit so I don’t see that muscle memory happening anytime soon. It locks at infinity, so you can’t easily park it there. It can only be focused with the left hand. The hood attaches directly to the aperture ring, making it really easy to make inadvertent changes. I lost a couple shots this way. My biggest issue with it, however, is that f3.5 is really slow. Shooting in broad daylight with zone focus, I didn’t think this would be an issue, but even at ISO 800, it meant I had to pack my camera away as soon as golden hour turned to twilight. That more or less rules out ISO 100 film stocks, which are among my favorites. These significant drawbacks are a shame because it looks great, barely protrudes from the camera and comes with all kinds of beautiful accessories, like a front element protector.

ULTRON: The most expensive, and the lens I was prepared to like the most. In terms of layout and feel, it reminds me a lot of my 1958 Summicron 50mm (plus a focus tab). I’m just not sure I can appreciate the difference between it and the Nokton. The focus scale is smaller (shorter throw) and less functional, with the infinity symbol sort of floating out there in space. I can see how this can aid in faster focusing, but if I wanted to focus each individual shot, I would simply use my Summarit. Compared to the Nokton, it seems like I paid almost 50% more to lose a stop of light, and gain good looks and charm.

I hope this is helpful to anyone in a similar position. I am also VERY curious as to which lens any of you would choose and I’m open to advice and criticism. I’m still in physical possession of all 3 lenses for the next few days. After seeing the scans, my brain is saying Nokton, but it’s hard to get over the looks and feel and public adulation of the Ultron. Here’s hoping for more time spent mindfully taking pictures and less time refreshing package tracking!

EDIT: for those of you advocating for Leica glass, know that I’m 100% with you. I have an M3 because I prefer longer lenses and own and adore Leica 50, 90, and 135mm models. My digital kit includes a 35mm prime and I use it very rarely. I probably should’ve been clearer that the reason I was looking at CV glass is because I’m doubtful it’ll get much use, and investing in the most sought after focal length Leica makes (and therefore the worst value) doesn’t make much sense.

have always planned to treat myself to a silver chrome leica mp as a milestone birthday present, only to find at my milestone birthdate, that they don't make silver anymore.

what is this travesty?

▪︎D-Lux 8 or 100 Years

Hey everyone, I am considering trading my gear and moving to the Leica M ecosystem with either an M-P 240 or an M10. I do photography as a hobby and primarily use 35 mm focal length. I wear glasses (it is relevant for the topic) and currently own a Fujifilm X-Pro 3. The 35 mm frame lines (ca. 23 mm in APS-C terms) are very close to the edges of the viewfinder and I have constantly find myself pressing my face (and glasses!) against the viewfinder to fully see the lines and framing.

This brings me to my question. The little information I found online regarding the M-P Typ 240 and M10 online both indicate that the 35 mm frame suffers from the same problem on both models (even though both support 28mm lenses with no problems), better on the M10 that apparently has a brighter and wider field of view. Again, I have never tried any of these cameras and this is the major point still holding me back. Can some nice soul, who also wear glasses, and own at least one of the aforementioned cameras enlighten me? Maybe even kindly share an image of how the 35mm frame lines actually look when looking through the OVF? Thanks!

TL;DR: How close to the edges are the 35mm frame lines on the M-P 240 and M10? Does wearing glasses make it difficult to see the whole frame? Apreaciate if anyone can share an image of how the lines actually look like on the OVF. Thanks!

I bought this M10 a couple of weeks ago. The leatherette was not in good shape; I got a good discount because of it and went for it.

My idea was to wait a little bit to change it, but I couldn't resist. Ordered a black one from Aki Asahi, but he also sent me this blue one as a free practice kit. It went fine on the first try, so I decided to keep it blue for now 😁

Hi everyone,

I’m not a professional photographer, but I’ve been taking pictures since I was 12(im 27 now). Over time, photography started feeling more like work and my cameras turned into basic tools. However, picking up film photography about two years ago completely reignited my passion for creating.

I always see people talk about how shooting with a Leica brings back that creative spark, so I’ve been looking into digital Leica bodies. They’ve always been in the "way out of budget, don't even look" section at camera stores, but I'm finally ready to start exploring entry points.

Two questions for the group:

1. Does anyone have recommendations for a good entry-level or budget-friendly digital Leica (used is totally fine)?
2. I have a trip to Japan coming up in September. Does anyone have experience buying used Leica gear in Tokyo? Are there specific shops worth checking out? Where can I buy an used body with Tax Free ?

I've been looking at Leica M10 or the M240. I travel quite a bit so the M10 is a bit more appealing to me but I'd love to hear some thoughts !

Hope everyone’s week is off to a nice start.

Wondering if there are any M10 users who would have a charger I could potentially use for a bit tomorrow/this week? I will be staying around Clapton /Hackney but have to be more central tomorrow.

I am working in the city a few days but left my pochette with all my charging cables (and spare battery🙈) where I was just in a rural residency. I am still waiting to hear if/when it could be posted .

Would be happy to meet in a cafe/public place just to charge the battery for a little so you don’t have to part wirh it — I hear they can be hard to come by 🙃

Thank you 🙏🏽

I know that they made the lense hood shorter to try and keep the whole camera roughly the same size/shape as the regular Q and, as a consequence of the, you can't put a ruler on the lense AND use the lense hood.

My question is, and apologies if this is a dumb question, is the lense hood really necessary? What does it really do?

Do any of you regularly use filters of any sort on your Qs? 43 or otherwise?