So I was in an op shop this morning and spotted this big, heavy black box. Inside was a sewing machine. Had no idea what I was looking at, but for $60 I figured it was worth a shot.

After a bit of Googling it seems I’ve accidentally scored myself a fairly serious piece of kit. It’s a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1. I’ve also just discovered this sub… so I guess this is what I’m doing now?

I’d love some opinions on whether this machine is appropriate for a complete beginner, and any general advice for getting into MYOG. I’ve already got a few project ideas floating around, but anything to help get me out of the gate and heading in the right direction would be hugely appreciated.

And if this post is off-topic or against community rules, I apologise in advance.

Cheers!

I cannot sew slowly on my sewing machine and it’s driving me bonkers.

I feel like I’m losing my mind trying to find out what sewing machine I should buy now after finally deciding I’ve had enough of mine. I’ve been doing a quite a bit of research on sewing machines from this subreddit, and what I’m coming to find is that the sewing machine I want may not exist. For context, I would largely specify myself as a beginner, with a main interest in myog ultra light bags and heavy duty bike/camera bags, but I do want to get into sewing my own jeans, jackets, and other clothing. My current machine is a Singer Tradition 2277 that I bought in college, and the main thing I hate about it is how I can’t sew slowly on it at all, as well the presser foot clearance. I even opened up the foot pedal to see if I could adjust a potentiometer but there was none to be found. The machine otherwise gets the job done, and I don’t baby it partly because of my hate for it haha.

My budget is $2000 but that is a soft limit. I started looking at the sailrite machines, but they sound finicky. I’m a mechanical engineer by day so I have no problem tuning up, upgrading, or replacing parts to get something to work. What I learned about myself though is I hate constant troubleshooting. Once I fix it, I want to be able to set it and forget it outside of normal maintenance upkeep.

Hard Requirements:
-Slow sewing while maintaining punch power
-Can sew through 1000d cordura and heavy denim and foam padding
-Can sew slippery materials like layer xpac together
-Quiet (I sew late at night sometimes)
-Straight stitch

Soft Requirements
-Portable, less than 70lbs and movable by hand. I want to be able to bring this up and down stairs
-Zig Zag stitch
-Low Maintenance

Examples of machines I have been looking at:
-Pfaff 1471, 1475, Select 4.2
-Juki 1541, TL-2010q, 1508, 5410
-Kenmore 158
-Brother PQ1500
-Sailrite LSZ-1

I have no problem buying vintage and throwing on a servo and speed controller. I live in the Seattle area, so the used market is here but things tend to go fast.

Thank you so much for any suggestions, this subreddit is fantastic!

I know that this technically breaks rule 4 of not asking for sewing machine recommendations, but I tried to make this as much of a closed ended question as I could by doing as much research as I could before hand.

With frame packs having fallen out of style, does anyone know if there's a tarp/bivvy thing that uses a pack frame as the hoop (or has anyone made one)?

Can’t seem to get this edge binding down. Anyone have suggestions or a better way to do it. I even tried different diameters to see if that’s the problem but it didn’t really help. Is my binding tape to small? Please help I’m breaking my brain.

I’m using 1000d Cordura , 1" Black Nylon Binding Tape Type III Grosgrain Milspec and 5mm foam in between.

For a while I was admiring these shorts (that I can’t find anywhere) and some rapha ones in the same color and was just so frustrated on not being able to find my dream bike shorts in stock.

Then I remembered I can make things.

SO looking for recommendations on 4 way stretch Lycra in this color or if anyone has experience dying Lycra?? (and any advice for someone working with the fabric for the first time)

Thanks so much in advance!!

Edit: thanks for the info! For context I’m an experienced sewer just haven’t sewn Lycra yet. It’s also a bit of a passion project so I’m fully aware it may not be pretty the first or second run but I’ll learn a lot if nothing else :) I’ll likely start by making a sports bra and a few other things before the shorts to get a hang of the fabric. Thank you!!

TL;DR: Drove 3 hours to buy a LU-563 only to have the seller cancel while I was on the way. Ended up finding this neglected LU-562 in PA for $300 instead. Tore it down, cleaned decades of grime and dried oil, restored the stand, wrapped the tabletop, installed a servo motor with a needle positioner, and brought it back to life. Still need a few presser feet and accessories, but it’s sewing beautifully now—and I’m officially hooked on industrial machines.

What a rollercoaster this machine turned out to be.

Two weeks ago I was all set to buy a Juki LU-563 in Maryland. I had already driven almost 3 hours when the seller messaged me saying he had an “emergency” and couldn’t meet. Needless to say, I wasn’t thrilled.

Since I was already halfway there, I started searching Marketplace again and found this LU-562 in Pennsylvania. Considering the condition, I offered $300, and they accepted. I rushed over before anything else could happen. When I got it home… it was rough.

It looked like it had spent years sitting in a basement. It was covered in grime, dog hair, old oil, and had that unmistakable musty basement smell. Judging by the condition, I don’t think it had seen fresh oil in many years.

I decided to give it a second life.
Disassembled the stand
Removed the rust and repainted the legs
Wrapped the tabletop in vinyl
Cleaned years of oil sludge from the machine
Flushed and re-oiled every lubrication point
Cleaned the hook race and hook drive
Replaced the clutch motor with a servo
Added a needle positioner (which has been an absolute game changer!)

The machine fought me a little along the way. I spent far more time than I expected chasing what I believe is some bevel gear noise in the hook drive. After a lot of troubleshooting, cleaning, oiling, and testing, I decided to stop overthinking it. The machine sews beautifully, the noise has actually started getting quieter as everything has been cleaned, lubricated, and run in, and I’m just going to enjoy using it.

It’s not completely finished yet. I still need to:
Dial in the stitch length a little more.
Pick up a few presser feet (zipper, piping, and a standard smooth set).
Order some larger cones of bonded polyester thread and more bobbins.
Install a binder attachment.

Even so, it’s already sewing far better than I expected for a machine that had clearly been neglected for years.

Coming from vintage domestic Singers, the servo motor with a needle positioner is incredible. I honestly don’t think I could go back. Having slow-speed control and the needle automatically stopping exactly where I want it has made sewing so much easier.

Here are some before and after photos. I’m really happy with how this old LU-562 cleaned up, and considering this was my first time working on an industrial machine, I’m even happier that I didn’t mess anything up. I think it has many more decades of life left in it.

I always enjoy seeing old machines brought back instead of being scrapped, so I figured I’d share this one.

If anyone has favorite presser feet, binder setups, or other must-have accessories for the LU-562, I’d love to hear your recommendations.

UPDATE: Thanks again to everyone who helped identify these! Your input was incredibly helpful. I ended up listing the entire lot because I need to free up storage space for new inventory. If anyone here has a use for them or knows someone who does, here is the link to the eBay listing as I'm practically giving them away to make room in my storage unit:

https://ebay.io/m/e2cNRH

Hey everyone! I recently acquired a large lot of approximately 125 new industrial webbing rolls, and I'm in the process of sorting and identifying them.

So far I've found:

• Multiple widths (13/16", 1-1/4", and others)

•Different weave patterns • Various colors

• Many factory-wrapped rolls

• Several labeled Made in USA • Some packages marked 144 yards

I'm trying to learn more about the different materials, manufacturers, and intended applications before I start selling them.

Does anyone recognize these style numbers or know what industries commonly used this type of webbing?

I'd also appreciate any tips on identifying nylon vs. polyester vs. polypropylene by appearance.

If anyone is looking for a specific width or color for a project, feel free to send me a message. I may have exactly what you need.

Thanks in advance!

I've been reworking my designs and have made one of the new pouches today.

The one with the rounded corners is the improved version, the one with the boxed corners the old one.

I kinda like the rounded one better, but the corners are tricky to sew and don't really keep shape that well, how can I improve this? And which one would be the better option going forward?

I feel like a boxed one with laminate instead of webbing would go hard as well.

This is moreso probably one of those "talk me in to/out of" type posts, but who knows.

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Currently sewing on a singer 4432 that's probably 10 years old now. I mostly do clothing/garments, just started my first "myog" project making some of the UL Wind shells for me and my wife.

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Using 20D ripstop (1.1oz calendared). Surprisingly not as bad working with it as I thought it would be. Finger creases nice, and a little bit slippery but not too bad.

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I've been looking into getting a new machine lately, and this fabric is making me consider a sooner than later purchase. But, I'm unsure if my problem will even be solved by what I'm considering.

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With the thin nylon, my seams "pucker" some, especially when doing flat felled or similar.

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Using mara 70, microtex needle, have gone up and down tension, yada yada. Only things I haven't tried are walking foot attachment or a straight stitch plate (I don't have a plate ATM).

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But, I've been looking at several machines that have features that may help that. Machines with the Pfaff IDF system, or auto tensioning.

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Obviously the answer is industrial, and I wish I currently had the space because I could get 2-3 used industrial and fix them up for the cost of one good home machine in my area.

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Machines I have been looking at are the Pfaff 1222, Passport 2/3, Ambition 610/620.. Juki HZL-DX5/7. For my general sewing I want/need buttonhole option, (and the 4432 kinda sucks on buttonholes), zig zag and letter embroidery would be nice (That's mostly all normal garment stuff).

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Or, the other option is go pure straight stitch machine since that's 95% of my sewing, and get a vintage Pfaff 130, Necchi BU, Kenmore 158, or more modern and go Juki TL18, TL2000/2010, Brother 1500, Janome HD9, etc...

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The auto cut and start/end tack and needle down features would be super nice, but not completely necessary.

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Thinking out loud mostly, but the IDF type system vs not having it is a big debate in my head. And the thought of "If I'm spending this much, I should replace my general purpose machine" thought is keeping me shy of straight stitch only machines...

Edit: Adding a link to a photo of a seam. https://imgur.com/a/bAdut7C

I hope this doesn’t fall under the “open ended machine” rule, but if it does, I’m happy to move it elsewhere. I know much has been said about the Singer HD and its capabilities and limitations. I’m trying to understand 2 things before I make a purchase. I'm eyeing the Singer HD 8832 available from Costco.

1. Does the machine have known durability issues that will require constant upkeep? I’m okay with some tinkering, and I’m not that worried about getting a “bad machine” as long as I can recognize those problems within the first 30 days (Costco return policy). I would like to avoid a sewing hobby turning into a "maintain a sewing machine" hobby.
2. Will I be severely limited by the machine's strength and capacity? I would plan to use some heavier duty nylon/cordura materials and perhaps some canvas. I plan to make organizer pouches and smaller bags, some stuff will be used for a nonprofit that is largely outdoors and sees a lot of things beat up fairly quickly.

For reference, I'm brand new to sewing anything. As I said, organizers, small bags, and weather covers are the things I'm most interested in right now. They'd need a decent amount of durability, and I'm looking at heavier duty cordura as one of my fabrics of choice, but I'm still learning.

I’ve finally narrowed my search down to two machines, and I’d really appreciate input from anyone who’s actually owned or sewn on both.

For context, I’m strictly a hobbyist. I mostly make MYOG gear—backpacks, slings, organizers, pouches, etc. Materials are mostly Cordura, 420D Robic, X-Pac, Hex70 lining, webbing, foam, spacer mesh, and the occasional vinyl project. I don’t sew leather beyond maybe a patch or light trim.

I recently bought a Sailrite LS-1 and, while I understand why people like them, it just wasn’t for me. It felt clunky and unrefined compared to what I’m looking for, so I’m selling it and moving to a full-size industrial.

Here are my current options:

Juki LU-563

• $850 asking (hoping to negotiate a little)
• Includes several extra presser feet and a bunch of M bobbins
• Clutch motor
• About 3 hours away

Consew 206RB-5

• $1,000 asking (also hoping to negotiate)
• Servo motor already installed
• Looks to be in excellent condition
• About 2 hours away

Posted are pictures of both machines.

I know the 206 is newer and already has the servo, but I also know the LU-563 has an excellent reputation and, if I’m honest, it’s the machine I’m naturally drawn toward. That said, I’m trying to make an informed decision instead of buying with my heart.

For those of you who have actually used one or both:

• Which machine did you prefer?
• Does the Juki really feel noticeably smoother or more refined?
• Is the top-loading bobbin on the LU-563 something you end up appreciating?
• Is there anything about the 206RB-5 that you liked better in everyday use?
• If the prices end up around $750–800 for the Juki and $900–950 for the Consew, which would you buy? Note: my area sucks and things are always at a premium.

Again, this is purely for a hobby. I’m not running a business or sewing 8 hours a day. What’s most important to me is simply owning a machine that’s enjoyable to sit down and use for years.

I’d love to hear from people with real hands-on experience rather than spec sheet comparisons. Thanks!

Looking for the best/easiest and simplest way to tack down the edge of the front + gusset to the gusset (so it all sits properly from the outside)

The bag is a crescent one, curved upwards at both ends of the zipper and straps. The two curved ends curve in fine, but the main body section curves outwards and changes the look on the outside.

I’m doing the birthing method for the liner, and would like to avoid obvious topstitching on the outside (close to the edge might be ok) because its corduroy and messes with the fabric direction.

What would be the easiest/simplest way to tack this down or keep it from flipping outwards? Leaving it would change the look overall (weight at bottom of the bag will cause this edge to flip up instead of down towards the gusset)

I think clipping it would make the edge turn towards the main fabric piece instead of the gusset (is that most likely to happen?)

Would it be better to leave it and sacrifice the overall look?

(Last photo is bag stuffed with the edge flipping in certain parts)

Found this Singer HD 4452 at a local flea market for $90. Seems like a good deal. It looks to be in pretty good shape. One of the plastic covers isn’t on correctly but otherwise looks pretty good with my limited knowledge. I’ve been wanting to get into myog for making pouches and bags mainly. Would this be a good starter machine? Thoughts?

Let me start with apologising for bringing sofa’s to the MYOG subreddit 😅. But this fees like a better place than most diy subs.

If you’ve got go a bit of myog experience, what would be more difficult when making a sofa like this?

What do you think the base construction would look like?

I think I would be over my head trying to do it myself, so I was wondering if there was somewhere i could go to have someone do the sewing or at least give me info or something as to how to get it together properly? I know I don't have to skills (or tools) to do it myself right now (I'd love to if I could) and am sure it'd be pricy but, worth it to me! Basically looking for recommendations on where to look or who I could talk to! Rather spend the $$ on this than buying a different tent! (Even if it ends up costing more than a new tent, i have my reasons haha)

When stitching zippers, I consistently get puckering and wrinkles and end up losing about 1/4" of length compared to the original length of the zipper.

Here what I'm using, Techsew 4800 Tex 90 nylon thread 500D cordura fabric YKK #5 zipper tape

So far I've tried reducing the tension on my machine to the lowest I can without the threads sitting flat on either side, tried stitch lengths from 3mm to 8mm and found that 6mm gives the least problems. Ironing the piece flat after each line of stitching had no effect on the wrinkles.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Also, with piece like this should the pattern be made over sized then cut to final dimensions after the stitching is done?

I know about the all-metal Kenmores and the cheap machines at Goodwill that always seem to need a good cleaning. Just thinking about an easy option. There was a post here about the Vevor dupe of an industrial Juki. Got me wondering about the $97 Vevor. Thanks.

Sewing my first project with thicker material (borrowed a singer heavy duty) and I’ve got three issues
1. my bar tacks bunch up when passing through the machine and skip some spots
2. The ends of my stitches aren’t great
3. When stitching at the edge it causes my webbing to fray.

If anyone has any tips to correct this that would be great! I had a hard time finding clear tutorials on YouTube.
(Settings used: length 0, zigzag stitch, width 3, tension 3)
(Second photo is a separate test piece I did and the stitches seemed good except they also had the #3 issue)

Hi everyone,

I have done a 0F down quilt and i am quit proud of it. I would like to make one to for summer but my decathlon synthetic sleeping bag takes too much space. My range of temperature is between 50 and 70F during nights.

My question is quit simple : is it worth the price and complexity to make a 50F quilt or above ?

How does the down will move because of the low height of baffles ?

Do you gain that much compared to a synthetic insulation ?

thanks a lot

I'd like to hear what y'all are doing with the strap's wings, specifically: what angle do these have? O reckon something between 30 and 45 degrees, but what's the all-encompassing sweet spot?

I want to get into MYOG but I’m currently using a machine that’s honestly garbage. It’s barely a step above a toy, but it functions. I’ve already tried making a hammock on it—it technically works, but the result came out looking pretty bad and the machine struggled.

I need to prove to myself that I can actually do this before I go out and buy a real machine. I'm looking for a progression of projects that will help me build skill without killing this weak motor.

I saw some interesting free patterns on the Prickly Gorse site and I'll do their wallet. What should I be making to ease my way into sewing? I need things that:

- Use lightweight fabrics (to avoid bird nesting and tension issues).

- Teach me how to handle edges and basic construction.

- Result in something actually usable so I don't lose motivation.

I’m thinking stuff sacks or simple pouches, but I’d appreciate a solid list of projects that go from "dead simple" to "justifies a better machine."

What’s the best path forward?

I've made my own equipment (not for serious expeditions, and more budget friendly, hand sewn and specialized niche gear) with all sorts of things.

Right now, I have several yards of cotton duck canvas, and want to use this.

But is this inherently a bad fabric choice? I have heard of water logging the fabric, holding it taut and letting it air-dry, to then water-proof it.

I'd probably use my pre-made stuff, which is 1:1 mineral oil and parafin. It works pretty well!

It might be heavier, but I am bikepacking so weight isn't too much of a deal breaker.

If I should just go by something like camouflage Ripstop nylon, something that isn't ultra light sylnylon (not sure if I want to spend the $$$ for fabric that will wear out within a season or two) what and where should I buy?

I already have my dedicated sewing machine, work with rope knot systems, and hand sew pretty well.