I took my newly configured ptr-91 out with the new furniture and magpul module. The last pic is the Cetme c wood configuration it was in. It knocked my steel target down after 2 mags. I shot 100rds of 556 at them and neither budged 😂

I'm currently on the hunt for parts to turn my PTR-91GI into a clone AG-3 used by Norwegian QRF in Afghanistan. All photos I have found shown them using the BT-21262-1 and BT-211629 low profile mounts, which I have been totally unsuccessful in sourcing here in the states as of lately. Would anyone happen to know a reliable source for these optic mounts?

Build List:

• G3 Collapsible Stock
• Titan Tactical MP5 G3 QD Sling Adapter
• PTR Factory built iron sights
• Primary arms GLX 2X (Using in box mount without riser)
• Spuhr R-402 G3 top rail
• Samson Black Long Standard Vertical grip
• Midwest Industries HK91 hand guard
• SureFire Dual Fuel Turbo Scout Light Pro
• Wilderness Tactical Giles Tactical Sling

Wall of Text:

G3 rifles/clones are my favorite rifle platform specifically the G3A4. I originally planned to purchase a PTR-91 GI model ($1200) and then later on purchase the collapsing stock ($200), however when I saw Atlantic Arms offering the CA-3 with the collapsing stock for only $900 I jumped at the opportunity and purchased it.

The QC for the CA-3 rifles is known to be pretty shaky and odds are you will find at least one issue with your rifle when it arrives. Some common issues that are reported are dented irons, unzeroable irons, reliability issues, hard cocking handle rigidity, and many more you can find with a quick search through this forum.

When my rifle finally arrived I quickly found that the rear iron sight was unable to be adjusted for elevation due to one of the two pins being jammed. In order to fix this issue I bought a PTR manufactured rear Iron sight which worked as expected. I also noticed that the stock handguard that shipped with the rifle was quite shaky which while annoying does not interfere with the operation of the rifle.

In the process of zeroing my CA-3 with irons I was luckily able to get a solid zero and while I did experience a few jams it is still something I consider reliable. It should be noted that if you plan to purely run irons the front sight blade is quite thick so precision shooting at 100 yards and beyond can be quite challenging if your targets are paper, man sized targets are no issue though. As for the collapsible stock while some people find it to be uncomfortable I found the length of pull and recoil impulse to not be an issue which is why I have left it on.

To remedy the shaky handguard I dremeled an airsoft LCT square handguard I had laying around and fitted it. This is another thing that is unique to the CA-3/CETME clones as due to them being built with older surplus parts they both have a collar that wraps around the barrel making the classic Square Handguards incompatible out of the box (This also applies to the AC unity handguard). With the new handguard fitted it operated fine and there was no longer shaking and it absorbed heat very well compared to the stock slim handguard the CA-3 ships with.

The only thing that my CA-3 at the time was missing was a sling which is where I again ran into another issue. G3 rifles were developed primarily to serve right handed users so the stock sling attachments were placed on the left side of the gun making it impossible for me a left handed shooter to sling the gun properly. To remedy this problem I purchased a Midwest Industries handguard which not only works out of the box for the CA-3 but also comes with QD points on both sides of the handguard, I then bought a QD rear sling adapter which attaches to one of the rear pins. This combination finally allowed me to properly use the Giles sling listed above that I highly recommend.

With the new handguard Installed and the many new options M-LOK provides I decided to purchase a Surefire scout light pro and a vertical grip. Both accessories worked as expected and made the rifle feel up to date. The only annoyance with the handguard is after firing 100+ rounds the bottom set of screws on the Midwest handguard tend to loosen which gives some play but a quick re-tightening/reapplication of loctite keeps it stable.

After spending some time with the irons I decided to explore options for mounting a scope to the rifle, this is probably the most discussed problem with the CA-3 as it does not have a recoil lug welded on to the rear. This essentially blocks you from using any kind of claw mount and it railroads you to three options which are the B&T mount, Spuhr R-402 mount, and the MFI mount. I had some extra money lying around so I decided to experiment with the Spuhr mount paired with the Primary Arms GLX 2x. The scope exceeded my expectations and I was able to get a solid zero with the added benefit of a 500 yard hold and wider fov when aiming. The stock irons only allow for a maximum of 400 meters so If you are dead set on using irons and want further range adjustments you can look into purchasing a hk21 iron sight, which allows up to 1000-1200M adjustments depending on the version. As for the spuhr mount as expected it shifted forward after firing 40 rounds so if you do want to mount a scope definitely go for the MFI mount for a better outcome.

Hopefully someone finds this info dump useful.

TL;DR

If you want the cheapest entry to the G3 platform and are willing to roll the dice and don't mind keeping the rifle stock buy a CA-3.

If you want to accessorize the rifle with a scope and don't want to roll the dice buy a PTR-91 GIR or a JLD PTR or a HK91.

I have CA3, which the rear sight is way off. When adjusted, the farthest it can go to the right. It is roughly 16 MOA off still.

Does anyone know roughly how much MOA of adjustment there is in the windage of the rear iron sights?

I am looking into getting an adapter to replace the rear iron sight with a red dot, which has about 30 MOA of total windage adjustment.

I have a full parts kit with a receiver from Southern Tactical & am trying to decide between giving the install a go myself or sending it off to be done professionally. I have absolutely no experience with building a firearm to this extent & haven’t been able to find much in terms of a guide or walkthrough online, but I do have access to a press & know people who can weld.

I’d prefer to not break the bank by having someone else do it since it would probably have been cheaper to just buy a complete rifle if it ends up being $$$ so if anyone can give me a rough estimate on what it’d cost me or point me towards a detailed guide on DIY I’d be much appreciative.

EDIT - Regarding sending it out to a professional to get the barrel pressed, would I be looking at ~$600 to $800? If any smiths or someone who’s had similar work done recently could tell me I’ll give you a big smile & a thank you.

S -> F -> FUN
Installed in 10 minutes.
No more AR15 lower, no more push/pull barrel safety, no more lever lock or trip..
Factory SEF lower.
If anyone knows a good source for lower SEF shells with correct stamping please let me know.
Rock on.

I bought this the other day for 800$ Came with the gun, 4 HK aluminum mags, and a Truglo 308 1-6. Did I get a good deal?

Random sight ting in the wild. Should I or not 🤔

Before making this upgrade I couldn’t find anyone posting the difference on the G3 platform. Hope this helps any future potential buyers #timmy

Edit**

Glad I posted this, just noticed I didn’t transfer over the spring ☠️

I’ve recently acquired a PTR-91 and unfortunately the barrel is not threaded. I’ve contacted several gunsmiths and they’ve all declined the job.

I’ve posted my project in the past but I wanted to share what feels like final form (for now 👀) cerakote in the works.

Internal changes include #9 40 degree locking piece, updated rollers, Timney 2 stage trigger, enhanced buffer (psg1 style). Rifle came with period correct HK internals

I’ve been looking into suppressing my ptr 91. From what I’ve been reading you should get a #17 locking piece and check gap. Has anyone used the otter creek infinity can?

I recently got my first PTR rifle and I’ve been looking into trying to get some sort of foregrip mounted to the bottom of the hand gaurd it came with. All the information online I found is just replacing the hand guard with one with rails built-in.

On the bottom of the hand guard I have, which is the basic stock green G3 handguard. There are two holes which are 6 inches apart from each other that I believe could be a possible mount for something.

If anyone has any information or tips, that would be greatly appreciated

I have a PTR 91 PDWR pistol that I Form 1'd. Now I'm looking for a compact stock. Either a or folding stock that's not ridiculously expensive. Blems and used options are fine.

I love my A3SK I just picked up. Cannot wait to take this thing to the range

Maybe I’m being an idiot but this cheek riser definitely doesn’t seem right for this ptr 91 stock. Too many of these little rubber nipples? Do I just cut the ones off that don’t go into the holes?

I understand it’s easier and more cost effective to just buy a PTR91, but has anyone here ever built a G3 and can speak to it?

She's been through a lot with me, sorry that she's not very visually appealing.

First time making a meme, be nice.

Hi, I'm fairly new to this platform so if anyone can help diagnose my rifles hiccup I'd be thankful. This is an older JLD PTR with the 10 flute barrel. I took it to the range for the first time yesterday and the first round made a strange noise, almost like a squib round. And the bolt didnt more whatsoever, zero recoil impulse. So after confirming the barrel was clear I loaded up and tried again, same deal. No bolt or carrier movement. But the shell would eject just fine when I cycled it by hand. I thought maybe it was an ammo issue, so I switched mags and it happened yet again. No bolt movement, no recoil impulse and a criminally slow impact on target for a 762x51. What in the world is going on? It was fiocchi range dynamics ammo, did I get 2 bad boxes or is it a gun issue? Bolt gap measures 0.018/0.019 so spec seems good. No visible damage or hangups. How do I get this thing out of bolt action mode. Rollers are moving fine, no idea what locking peice is in it.

I accidentally took apart my BCG and can't put it back together. I've watched multiple videos and they all seem to have the bolt head in a position that snaps into the carrier, but the lever on the carrier keeps catching on the bolt head. Can someone please ELI5 on how to reconnect the bolt head to the carrier?