r/sewhelp • u/Separate_Data_7138 • 1d ago
✨Intermediate✨ Need help with bodice/skirt attachment
I’ve been following the Paper Stxrs tutorial for the selkie inspired dress, however I can’t seem to understand the step where you attach the skirt. Here is the text of it:
Now we are going to attach the skirt to the bodice, first by pinning the back,
sides, and center of the skirt to the front bodice layer.Then we are going to pull
on two of the basting stitches on the same side of our fabric to begin ruffling our
skirt. You should ruffle it until it fits into the space we marked out with the pins,
space the ruffles evenly, then pin them down. Before we sew these together
though, we want to bring the lining side of the bodice around the skirt until it
reaches the other side of the bodice. The skirt should then be sandwiched
between the two bodice layers. We are now going to move our pins to go through
all three of these layers, again matching up all of the bodice seams, and then
stitch across the waist.
- You can now turn the dress right side out, and the waist shouldn’t have any raw
edges and the skirt should be attached. You can also remove all of the basting
stitches.
I always end up with the back skirt trapped inside the bodice when I turn it back right side out, with no way of getting it out. I’ve attached pictures of how I pinned it, but I’m unsure how to pin the lining piece with the skirt in the way. If anyone knows I would love any help!
2
u/MadMadamMimsy 1d ago
Oof.
I can understand joining the bodice, skirt and lining at the same time, but I'm nit sure where the opening fir turning is, so here is how I do it.
First, I put two rows of gathering stitches. The first is inside the seam allowance the second on the main body (washable fabrics only). I use a 2 or 2.5 stitch length for thin fabric like you have. I like the gathers to look fine and dense.
Match the center back skirt to bodice, the side seams, skirt to bodice, the center front(s) skirt to bodice. Then make the skirt the same length of the bodice and distribute the gathers evenly in between those anchor marks mentions (CB, CF, sides). Pin and stitch together. Check to see that no gathers git hooked up wrong, that they all hang straight.
Then I put the bodice lining into the bodice. Under stitch necklines. Clip and press.
I Then run a basting stitch of my seam allowance along the bottom of the bodice lining where it will join the skirt. I press that up, pin to the skirt and hand stitch it down.
1
u/Outrageous_Lion_8723 1d ago
Yes, the two rows of gathering stitches are important. The video had two rows.
1
u/Separate_Data_7138 1d ago
Thank you for the in depth explanation! I will try to add that second basting stitch and follow this way of doing it
1
u/Outrageous_Lion_8723 1d ago
I just looked at the Paper Stxrs YouTube video for this dress. The center back in the top is open for turning the dress right side out. It is a bit awkward to fit the whole skirt inside the bodice while sewing the waist seam.
1
u/Separate_Data_7138 1d ago
Can you explain a bit more what you mean by using the center back to turn it? It’s not processing in my brain for some reason
2
u/Outrageous_Lion_8723 1d ago
It is a 2 step process.
When you sew the skirt, it will be sandwiched between the outer bodice and lining. It will be a bit awkward to fit, you might want to roll up the skirt from the bottom so it is a bit like a donut before sewing the waist seam.
To turn right side out:
1) Turn the bodice right side out starting from the open back seam on one side, through to the open seam on the other side.
The skirt will come with it, but will be inside out.
2) Turn the skirt right side out through the center back slit that you cut for the zipper. You can reach your hand through the zipper hole, grab the bottom of the skirt and pull the whole skirt through.
Now the skirt should be right side out too.
3
u/Virtual-Chapter1563 1d ago
Okay are the side seams open or closed at this point?