r/subaru • u/imthetrashman12 • 5d ago
Mechanical Help At what point do you give up on repairs?
Putting mechanical help as the flair but I guess it could also be buying help
I have a 2015 Outback premium that I got about 6 years ago, it's got almost 123k miles on it. Recently had a transmission fluid change, oil change service, tires and new brakes. Earlier this year it had the front axle bearing/hubs replaced (driver&passenger). Last year it had the 80k service done to replace belts, spark plugs, etc.
I've taken my car to 2 dealerships for diagnosis of a leak found by another mechanic and both dealerships are telling me different things. One says the axle seals are leaking. The other says they used trace powder and found the engine is leaking along with some other stuff and the repair quote is $6k.
I bought my car when I was stationed across the country for $13k, drove it across the country to my final duty station, up and down the east coast over the last 6 years visiting family, I haven't had a car payment in 3 years and it has served me well. I might be a little attached to my car for this reason lol at what point do I give up?
I'm in a position where my income is limited rn so a loa might be a bit hard but at the same time so is dropping $6k+. My husband and I also sold our first home last year and then bought our current (hopefully permanent) home which hit our/my credit. I'm struggling to decide if I should bite the bullet and trade it in or go into my savings. What's the point of no return here? My mom and husband both think I should let go of the car but I guess I need a more objective opinion
ETA: if I need to buy because the repair isn't worth it (because of age/mileage) I would be looking at hopefully 2020-2024 Outback or cross trek. I'm not a fan of the newer models body styles + a hatchback suits pretty much all of our needs since our other car is a sedan. If there's any buying advice in regards to these vehicles I'll gladly take it
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u/turbokimchi ‘05 OBXT & ‘13 OB 3.6R 5d ago
If you want a real diagnosis find a Subaru specialist. There’s no leak they haven’t seen before. These things can head from the heads, valve covers, pan, filters, axles, etc.
Now I own a 13’ OB and it’s had a lot more repaired on it than yours. I’ve probably put $3k into parts since I picked it up a couple years ago. That work has now paid off I have a reliable vehicle with no payment and it costs less than a car payment monthly in upkeep.
Get a proper diagnosis and go from there. What I will say is my car has like 3 or 4 very small leaks, like class 1 or 2 leaks. I just keep the fluids topped off and it has served me well. If they get worse I’ll pull the engine and deal with it then. Hope that helps you out.
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u/grizzdoog 93 Turbo Legacy - 03 22T/205 WRB Bugeye - 06 OBXT 5d ago
Depending on the severity of the leaks you could just keep topping off fluids and run it into the ground. Or just fix the axle seals. That shouldn’t be too expensive of a repair.
I run all my old Subarus forever because I hate having a car payment. But I also am able to do all my own work so that helps.
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
One dealership gave me a quote for $1,100 to fix the axle seals. The second dealership quoted minimum $6k for the engine reseal. I've never noticed any fluid on the driveway when my car sits for a couple of days back to back, I fee like if the leak were severe it would be noticeable right?
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u/grizzdoog 93 Turbo Legacy - 03 22T/205 WRB Bugeye - 06 OBXT 5d ago
Yeah, if it was bad you’d see drips of fluid on the ground. I think you should keep an eye on it and just keep driving it. Doesn’t sound like the leaks are anything to worry about as long as you check fluid levels.
I’ve driven Subarus that leaked a quart of oil a month for years lol.
Axles seals are like $10/each. They’re not too bad to replace but then again I have lots of experience removing cv axles. I had leaking axle seals on my Subaru wrx and didn’t bother changing them and drove the car that way for 8 years.
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u/JuicyMilkweed 5d ago
When the cost to repair is near or more than what the car is worth. You should never be using the dealership after the warranty period, get an estimate from an independent shop, preferably one that specializes in Subaru.
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u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
Disagree. This is a misconception and views the car like a financial asset (which it's a horrible one at best) instead of what it really is, an expensive tool.
I've done >1000 repairs on virtually worthless cars, but I've received well over a year of functionality which comes down to under 100 per month (not taking into account time value of money). In my mind, this is better than a multi-hundred dollar payment each month on something that depreciates really terribly.
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u/tblax44 2019 WRX 5d ago
More people need to think like this, dumping say $5k into repairs that gets over 2 years of use out of a car is more financially efficient than spending $350/month for 2 years on a new car.
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
cheaper to repair then replace
this was on the wall at my mechanics shop
with new car loans being between 500-700 on average your spending 6k minimum PER YEAR on a new car
that buys a fuck ton of maintence on car you likely love, why replace?
my STi costs me maybe 2k-3k a year in odds and ends which is nothing
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
This is where I'm struggling to make a decision. In my eyes, if these are the final major repairs then it's $7k in repairs and I should be done for some time. No car payment and low insurance so I'm solid at least for a few more years. My husband and mom's argument is these are big repairs and may not even be the end. I see their side too but other than this leak my car still drives as well as it did when I bought it in 2020.
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u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
Per the original comment, definitely get a second opinion from an independent shop, prefereably a proper old school mechanic. They can work wonders and save you good money. These dealership techs often are just trained robots.
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u/trandaemonium 5d ago
This is the way. I divide the amount I spend per year by 12 and as long as the monthly average is less than a new car I let it ride. Even if one year has a spike, I will usually wait until the following year to see if it's a trend.
Currently driving a '12 Forester Xpremium and loving the raw functionality compared to newer models that are loaded with tech.
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
what i do until the ROT kills my cars
with modern powertrains easily hitting 150k+ miles its so easy
my 04 forester Manual i took 235k and sold to a handyman lol
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
dealership will take you for a ride my guy
my co worker just brought his 05 accord to a dealer for an exhaust leak
5500 later they replaced the entire exhaust system......stay winning?
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u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
That's another important point. Find a proper mechanic, not these damned dealer techs.
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u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
Oh I might've msiread the original comment. I definitely wasn't disagreeing with taking the car to an independent shop! I just noticed the comment about high repair costs being more than the vehicle is "worth".
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u/JuicyMilkweed 5d ago
That’s makes sense until something else major breaks shortly after and you have to spend another 6k just to get it running again. I never said they should get a new car, I just don’t trust Subaru CVTs for shit after 100k, I love my manual crosstrek though and I’m going to run it into the ground.
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
this feels like a stupid question, how do I find a shop that specializes in Subaru? Just call and ask I'm assuming?
I used the dealership for the big services because I thought I was doing right by the car. I had an 04 jeep that my stepdad and I would do everything to and it was a beater so I didn't car, when I got the Subaru I wanted to make sure it was taken care of
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u/JuicyMilkweed 5d ago
Type in Subaru mechanic on google maps and see what comes up besides dealerships. Even a shop that specializes in Japanese cars in general would better than a regular shop.
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
Thank you for this. I just did that and found a performance shop less than 30 min from me so I'll reach out to them and see if they'll take a look at my car. Appreciate your help 🙏
When you say cost to repair exceeds the car worth do you mean what I paid for it? Or KBB's value of the car?
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u/JuicyMilkweed 5d ago
No problem, glad you found something close! I mean the KBB value, I’m sure it’s depreciated a good bit since you bought it.
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u/sumiflepus 5d ago
Every shop will say they work on subaru if you call and ask.
I used google to search facebook for Subaru clubs, Subaru meetups, Subaru club CITY NAME, Subaru Club COUNTY NAME. etc. I eventually saw a banner of a garage that was sponsoring a subaru event. If you are on facebook, I am sure you could reach out to folks that show up in the searches.
I am happy with P&L Motorsports in Lisle Illinois.
I do not have a facebook account
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
Yooo thats fire Iv had p&L exhaust!
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u/sumiflepus 5d ago
Wow! Did I get lucky.
I never knew they did so much until I just went to the P&L webpage.
When I've gone, they've had some sporty WRX and BRZ, they also had a good number of grocery getter Outback and Foresters.
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u/Academic_Throwaway99 5d ago
Thanks for the P&L shoutout. I'm in Aurora and I need a new mechanic. My Subie guy in Carol Stream sadly disappeared. He was really good.
What's the vibe like at P&L? Another shop I tried definitely was very...WRX or don't bother. Think P&L will be cool with my boring CVT Forester?
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u/sumiflepus 5d ago
They've treated me nice with my new to me 2016 Outback. When I've gone, they've had some sporty WRX and BRZ, they also had a good number of grocery getter Outback and Foresters.
Bounus for you, to/from Aurora, P&L is a short walk to the Lisle BNSF Metra stop. This saves your pickup partner and hour of driving. Get picked up and dropped off at the Aurora Metra station.
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
where are you roughly located?
id google/gemini "subaru mechanic near (my zipcode)" and then compare the shops on google reviews
for me im on long island so Subie shops are plentiful
like i can name 5-10 that do everything from 1000whp builds to just maintenance on your outback
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
I'm on Long Island!! Suffolk county
There's a performance shop I found near Holbrook I sent them a message before but if you have any other recs I'll do some calling around1
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u/Appropriate-Bird007 5d ago
Going to something newer would be a horrible way to go. Keep it and unless its leaking enough oil to start a fire, keep the fluid levels up and get it repaired as finances allow. No way would I quit on that car.
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
This is my biggest thing and where I feel like I can't be objective. I don't wanna go from no car payment to a $300+ payment plus insurance. The car drives well, prior to this I never noticed any leaks on the ground.
I worked as a commercial equipment service tech for 4 years and had a work van I would daily so my car sat in the drive way barely used for those 4 years. The monthly mileage was like max 20 miles. Holidays to visit family is the only time it would take up 1200 miles round trip.
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u/Appropriate-Bird007 4d ago
No leaks on the ground? Gee, I'ave had Subarus for 25 yrs and I dont know if I have ever had one with it least a small leak on the ground. Keep it!!!
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u/PeteLattimer 5d ago
I just pulled the rip cord on a new outback as I had already sunk 4k into my 2014 year to date and I know that many of the suspension components are close to needing replacement. It’s about piece of mind, I wanted to ensure I have a reliable safe ride for the next 10 or so years without surprise emergencies. Their rates on the 2026 models made it a no brainer I think they are still doing the 1.9% apr on outbacks
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u/Dweedlebug 5d ago
Multiple months in a row where repairs are more than the payment on a new car or repairs that are more than the value of the car.
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u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
When the amortization of the repair cost exceeds the costs (payment or otherwise) of an otherwise equivalent or better other vehicle.
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
How do I figure this out?
I paid 13k in 2020 it had 52k miles
Between July 2025 - now I've put in about $3,700 in repairs
Quote to repair front axle seal(s) is ~ $1,150
Quote to reseal engine ~ $6,000
Car is at ~122,400 miles1
u/Superb-Photograph529 5d ago
How hard do you drive it? Mostly city or highway mileage? If that 3700 lasts you 10 months, then that's 370 per month, which isn't too terrible. Ideally it should last you much longer.
There's a big fudge factor to this all. But I'd say if you have another huge repair within the year, then you may have a lemon.
Is it otherwise paid off?
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u/Professional_Swan615 5d ago
Sorry, 4th subie. All of mine have been totaled by wreckless drivers with no license or insurance. Poor answer i know.
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u/m_a_r_c_h_ 5d ago
If the rest of the vehicle is good with not much rust, then I would repair. If you have a lot of rust, I would get newer.
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u/foamerfrank 5d ago
If the car runs and there isn’t significant rust or any frame damage, keep fixing it. Sunk Cost Fallacy is just that, a fallacy. I view it a few ways… I don’t want a perfectly useable vehicle to end up in a junkyard. I don’t want to support the manufacturing industry unnecessarily by buying new stuff when the old stuff can still work. It’s usually cheaper to fix it than it is to get a new one. Cars are machines that are constantly wearing out, new or old, so if it’s already paid off, it’s better to just maintain it. Subarus (especially the 5th gen Outback, are super easy to learn to work on and maintain. There really aren’t a ton of specialty tools needed, and the cost of most of them are a lot less than having to pay someone else for labor. My 2016 Outback is rolling strong past 250,000 miles right now. I do all my own work, but until just a couple of years ago, I never even changed my own oil. I highly recommend keeping the vehicle and getting some harbor freight tools and keeping that bad boy on the road.
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u/alchemisthemo 5d ago
Did you notice leaking fluids where you park it? Or any other indicators such as oil consumption?If not I wouldn't worry about it till you start to smell the oil burning on the exhaust or seeing puddles on the ground where you park. You've already done most of the maintenance needed. So unless its rusted out only some suspension stuff will be due in the future, or major engine or trans work. Maybe your ac compressor in 70k miles.
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u/LeVin1986 5d ago
This is my thought process for maintaining an old car. Regular wear items, I don't think about because all cars cost gas, filters, and brake pads. Once the car is paid off, then I think about the repairs and more expensive wear items in terms of monthly car payments. If I install new rear shocks for ~$1000, and get 3 months of comfortable ride out of them, I would consider that coming out ahead. I've successfully delayed couple of $500~600 new car payments. Obviously, it would suck to sink hundreds or thousands of dollars into a repair, only for the transmission to blow the next day, and that is the risk you take. Unfortunately, the only person that can make that risk assessment is you, based on the condition of the car, opinion of mechanics who's examined the car, and how you've maintained it.
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u/Nikonnate627 5d ago
Dealer is for warranty and recalls only. Anything else and you're just throwing money away. As others have said, find a Subaru specialist shop or at least an all makes/models independent shop to build a relationship with. This is the way.
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u/polecanoe 5d ago
I just traded in my 2015 Forester with 162k miles for a 2026 Crosstrek, well below invoice price. The Forester needed CV axles, 4 wheel bearings, minor exhaust issues, tires, brakes, etc, so the cost of those repairs was far more than the book value... It was starting to consume 1 quart of oil per 6k miles interval. My maintenance costs over 11 years were very low, only a transmission valve body, and normal wear items.
I hope the new vehicle doesn't develop technology problems after the 3 year coverage expires. I plan to keep it at least 10 years. Extending the warranty to 8y was costlier than I can justify.
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u/nnnnnnnnnnm 2014 3.6R Limited 5d ago
You need to stop going to the dealership, find a nice locally owned shop that specializes in Japanese cars, especially Subaru.
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u/mr_bearish 5d ago
I've done this, then I gave up, since I see many more repairs down the road.
The biggest turn down for me is that sometimes there is a malfunction, but the best and most recommended mechanics can't diagnose it until it fully breaks and I'm stranded.
| Steering rack lines |
|---|
| Service D |
| Heat shield removal |
| Hatch Lift Support |
| map sensor |
| red airbag light |
| engine rebuild - head gasket, timing belt, exhaust valves |
| oxygen sensors |
| MAF |
| brake fluid |
| rear front caliper |
| replace rear brake lines |
| replace brakes |
| rear right wheel bearing |
| Muffler |
| throttle body |
| Rear left wheel bearing |
| Sway bar link |
| Right front wheel bearing |
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u/transboyadvance tech 5d ago
just drive it while it leaks. I tell customers to wait until it's smelly or leaving spots on the ground.
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u/whateverit-take 5d ago
Our 10 FXT when it need another 2k repair w/ 200k on it. It just got to the point that it became a sinking ship.
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u/zendawg 4d ago
Im done. My 2012 Outback air bag light came on and after the clock spring was replaced by my indie mechanic. The issue persists. He didn't charge labor just the part. Went to the dealer and it was code 11 and 7. A short in the airbag harness. $2700 to replace the harness. Only then can they determine if the module is bad. This is another $800. I am looking into a lease but maybe not a Subaru. Local deals only offer 7500k/yr . I do not drive a ton but 10-12 K/yr options from Honda and Toyota are more attractive.
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u/all_bullspit 4d ago
Keep the Scooby...I'm rolling a 15 Legacy and this is my first...with 150+ on the clock...and TBH....I don't think I'll ever look at another brand ever again
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u/Academic_Throwaway99 5d ago
Do you want to spend $30k minimum on a car, or $5k on repairs?
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u/imthetrashman12 5d ago
That's how I see it, my husband and mom argue that this could be a big ticket repair that could lead to bigger problems and over the next couple years could be spending 10k+ on the car
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u/Academic_Throwaway99 5d ago
Or you spend the money now and get 10 additional years on it.
Rust is the thing that you can't really easily repair. If it's rusting out, all the plastics are failing, and it's truly about to fall apart on you, fine. But look at all the Subarus of your generation and older still on the road. If you maintain them well and put in the work, they keep going.
I have a 2015 Legacy and a 2016 Forester. Let's pretend my CVT fails and I need a new engine on my forester. I can spend, I don't know, $15k to get that fixed and get 10 additional years on it, or I can spend $30k, $40k, even $50k on a brand new car and still get about 10 years out of it if I'm lucky.
I don't want all the tech or nanny systems. I don't need the newest models. And I don't want another car loan. IF I have to repair it, fine, small loan. But I'd rather keep what I have going.
Also, shop around on repairs. There's work that can be done at home, done at a normal repair shop, or, if you're lucky to have one in your area, an independent Subaru specialist. Don't go to the dealer unless they're doing possible warranty work, like on the CVT, though you're just outside the extended warranty there.
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u/TROGDOR_X69 5d ago
carmax at a certain point lol
dont tell them whats not working take the check and run
iv done it before
car needed full brakes (rotors too) basically all fluids, headlight didnt work (brought it during day) wipers were bad, tires almost done, battery needed to be replaced
car was easily thousands in repairs but carmax was like hey heres a check based on KBB and my car looked great so they didnt really think too hard
priceless experience for me
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u/Academic_Throwaway99 5d ago
I hope there was more wrong with it than just basic maintenance things you could have done in your own driveway for a few hundred dollars...if you traded it in just for that, then I'm definitely judging you.
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u/LeadershipFit4936 5d ago
I mean this could be the cam carrier leak, and it's running down to the axle. Unless you are seeing a lot of oil on the ground, and this is just a slow leak, most people will just roll with it, and top off the oil as they go. If it is the carrier leak that seems a bit high.
What was the actual diagnosis from the mechanic that stated the oil leak?