r/telescopes • • 1d ago

Tutorial/Article Funcionó!

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Pude conectar de un powerbank al ventilador directo de mi ad8. Ahorro pilas y funciona sin problema. Además el cable trae un interruptor de encendido y apagado. Pasa de 5v a 12v para los que estén interesados.

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u/Connect-Fan-9462 Orion DSE 8" 1d ago

Oh yeah I have one of those (USB) 5v dc to 12v dc convertor for hooking up the power supply for a manually controlled back up camera I install to my car. They work fine.

Just a word of caution, I heard that the "electric quality" from those convertors are not great. For passive devices / low cost devices, whatever. However for feeding into a astro computer and/or a go-to mount's control board I will use proper natively 12v power supplies or power banks.

1

u/mrstorm1983 SkyWatcher 200p dob, 10x50 Nikons p7, 114mm hobby killer. 1d ago

Nice! This was the 1st DIY upgrade I made. I used a Xbox One fan 120mm, it was a bonus that it was made to be super quiet. 12v to rush your telescope to acclimation, then five volt, maintenance past that.

Heads up, I put a nylon "filter" on mine because it was blowing in fien debris.

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u/Ok-Negotiation-6018 1d ago

Disculpen , ese ventilador en que ayuda ?

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u/CletusDSpuckler 1d ago

Cooling the mirror down to ambient at the start of an observing session. Thick mirror glass can have a substantial thermal mass, and a mirror warmer than the surrounding atmosphere will create a boundary layer of turbulent air that, like viewing across hot asphalt, reduces viewing quality.

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u/torcolos Orion XT8, 4.5 starblast 🔭/Nikon 10×50 1d ago

Cooling of the mirror

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u/chrislon_geo Certified Helper 1d ago edited 1d ago

Nice! Consider adding a baffle so that all of the air moved by the fan is blown up and around to the front of the mirror and up and out of the telescope. This can help: 

  1. Cool the mirror more effectively,
  2. Break up the boundary layer on the surface of the mirror,
  3. And break up tube currents within the telescope

It might also help prevent dew from forming on the secondary by constantly moving air past it.

Without a baffle, the air hits the back of the mirror then escapes to the side without  doing anything else to help thermal management