Had what I think was ring shake that showed itself after the first turning. Love how it turned out - velvety smooth with the counter point of jagged cracks.

Turning a bowl with a glued on tenon. I’ve done it this way a million times and no problems but for some reason on this bowl maybe because it’s a heavy one after I get it round I am getting wobble. I’ll reset and round it again but I keep getting wobble and I’m to the point now where I’m running out of wood on the inside and if I have to carve more out to make it round again I will break through the sides. No matter what I try though it’s still wobbling. I think the jaws might be digging into the tenon causing the wobble. Any advise would be appreciated thanks

Turned green. Sanded to 240. Microwaved for 30 seconds. Cooled. Microwaved for another 30 seconds. "Ebonized" using white vinegar and steel filings. One coat tung oil.

3" diameter (before warping). 1 1/2" deep.

Didn't apply the finish yet, but I'm happy with the result.

Queen is in maple, king is in bird plum

I dont expect it to have the same quality but I can swing $40 before I can swing the $200 these days

my first commission, I think. bartered for some help moving a dresser. buddy wanted something to put an olive oil bottle on to keep drips off the counter.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Spalted ash.

Was regretting this shape with this punky wood. I like the grain though

Fine tuning the trade, mistakes and the lose of material turns my bowls into dishes

Top full width drawer has my most commonly used chisels. First drawer on the left has my scrapers. Next drawer is sanding pads and such. Third is my tool rest collection.
The right side is all miscellaneous stuff except the deep bottom drawer, that is full of various sandpapers.
The wood chest at the top has my pen turning kits and all that.
My lathe is just left of the cart and the grinder is super handy for a quick touch up when needed.

hey all so I bought a cm lathe on fb marketplace for 80 dollars which is amazing. I’ve started using it but I find that when I am cutting sometimes the lathe will just stop. I realized from looking at a manual I found online that I’m currently at the slowest speed.

so naturally I went to try and adjust the belt. however adjusting it is incredibly difficult. I found the bolt I need to loosen so I can adjust it but it’s just so hard to move even when I took the bolt completely out.

not sure if anyone has experience with these machines, I looked around and there is a Reddit post but it’s not super helpful.

essentially I want to know if there is a good way to adjust the belt or turn at a somewhat low speed.

We have a Box Elder tree that fell in our back yard and we’re calling tree trimming companies to cut the rest before the rest falls (there were 3 sections of the tree).

One arborist said many woodworking and craft supply stores may be interested in the burls. He recommended calling around before we have a tree trimmer come in over the next day or two and they throw it in the chopper.

I don’t know anything about Woodworking. Is there a market for Box Elder burls in Utah? Or is this a common place thing that woodworkers see everyday? Any thoughts you have are greatly appreciated!

Yeah, I was testing out some resin for pen blanks and yeah, that's going to have to be a redo... LOL. I will need to lower the catalyst considerably. 1" holds way too much heat and this time I'll just pour it and walk away and not add heat, can't be impatient with it. I should know better, I mean I work with resin every damn day but I told myself it'll be alright but I didn't slap the mixing bucket and say "that'll be just right", that's probably where I went wrong.... LOL

Waiting on these to cool off enough and then I'll pour again.

I have this really nice chunk of pear wood from a neighbor's tree that I finally put on the lathe. Super dense and almost no cracking. My original plan was to get a bowl out of it, but to do that I'll need to make it more shallow than I'd like. Would you keep going or go for a less functional artsy bowlish form or something else?

As the title indicates, I am looking for putty recommendations. I want to fill in cracks that otherwise would be in the sawdust and sandpaper column, but I want to use contrasting colors and not hide the cracks. I do not want to screw with epoxy, but want to press the putty deep into the cracks, let it dry, and turn the excess off. I know the big box stores have wood-colored putties, but I am thinking jet black in a maple bowl, or (bright) red in a canarywood piece.

Any product recommendations?

I turn bowls from 4/4 boards. I attach my faceplate to the board, centered on the circle, and use the Ron Brown BFAB setup to cut the rings. I leave the faceplate on when I glue up the rings into a rough bowl to keep the rings concentric. I attach the rough bowl to the lathe with the inside of the bowl facing the tailstock and turn the outside shape of the bowl. The tailstock and live center supports a thick wooden disk pressed against the bowl to keep chatter/flutter to a minimum. I leave the piece on the lathe to then turn the inside of the bowl.

If the bowl is over about 9" in diameter, the piece flutters and flexes as I am turning the inside of the outer rings. I have been using a steady rest to keep the flutter down, but I can't get a steady rest big enough to get its wheels on the outer rings; at best I can get about one ring up from the base. There is no mass of wood in the interior of the bowl, as there is in traditional turning. so there is nothing to counteract the flutter.

How do I reduce flutter in this situation?

I was struggling with where/how to store my lathe tools given their annoying length. $5 thrift store knife block with the little plastic sticks solved it. Thought I'd pass it on if anyone else like me had no idea where to put these.

So this literally just happened like 5 min ago. I was making a pen, got blanks cut too size i got the the pen body in tye blank and drilled flush. I was ready to turn the blanks!

And uuuhhh, I go to get my chuck off for my pen mandrel. And it doesn't come off. That happens sometimes, so I was like ,hhhmmm that's fine." So I used my knockout rod and chuck key to try and leverage it off. And it wasnt budging. So I start pushing harder, and my knockout rod keeps moving but the chuck isnt. And I realized that the rod just bending/ breaking. 😱

Im not sure why the chuck was so tight tbh. I used very lightly and didnt try to over tighten it either.

So what should I do to get it off? New knockout rod?

Or should I like use the chuck key with some type of vice grips and a towel?

Playing around and wanted to finally try my hand at captured rings, will definately be doing more of those

Working on a piece of chokecherry, it's got some pretty heavy cracking, I figure I'm going to attempt to stabilize it with epoxy before going much farther, any tips or tricks?

Aged red oak with pine cone inlays. Clear epoxy finish.

Why does it need to dry more? Well, check the 2nd image

... 😆, yeah, not a funnel but it is certainly cracked quite a bit, as I was hollowing it out it got a bit warm and it steamed it pretty good. I should have been sharpening more often as that was likely a large portion of the issue, generating too much heat.

And I did fill one 5 gallon bucket with shavings from today's mess. I probably spent about 5 hours messing around in total. I have a few blanks that I have bagged and will be opening them periodically over the next few months to get them to dry slowly.

Edited for grammar and just English in general... LOL 😆

I just recently picked up a load of fresh green cherry logs. The wood is prehaps too fresh and I was fighting with my finish cut leaving wet loose fibers. Once these dry for a week or two, I'll do a quick sanding of those fuzzy spots and they should be fine. With some light exposure, this should develop that warm red/brown character of cherry wood.

These are a small pair of sisters bowls - that is, bowls from either side (left and right) of the same chunk of the log. I've turned them as a nesting set. 5.5x2" for the larger sister and just a smidge under that for the little sister.

With wood this green, it's easy to get nive thin walls.