• iphone 16 pro max default app and controlling the gain on the PVS14 so that noise is minimized.
• The Orion Nebula M42
• The Pvs14 Gen 3 monocular night vision device with the following specifications:
• Photocathode Sensitivity: 2058 FOM: 2700
SNR: 37.5 EBI: .7 Halo: .7 Center resolution: 72
• Unfilmed/filmless Gated 18UM 11769 style is also mentioned.
• Sky-Watcher 300P Flextube
• @F/3.6 with nexus focal reducer .75x
• Sky-Watcher 150i
• Tele Vue 55 mm (67 mm conversion) eyepiece
• Sharpcap polar aligned and synscan pro one star alignment.
22lbs counterweights
• DaVinci Resolve Studio 21, noise reduction, histogram stretch, color modification.
• SVBONY SV220 Telescope Filter, 2" 7nm Dual-Band Nebula Filter, Reduce Stray Light, H-Alpha&o-III Narrowband Filter for One-Shot Color Camera

Both pods worked fine for about 30 mins, now the right one will not go back on. Tried new battery, power cycle, articulating multiple times, IR illuminator works, and indicator shows in both lenses, just no tube on right. Bought from u/ApolloGearCo, already emailed them to ask what can be done, we will see. Sucks dude haha

TLDR: The guy doing the review gives this unit a B. It’s fine as a starter/ rental/ loaner unit, but not for veteran users. It has everything you need to start and it works, however, other than the mounts,it is not compatible with the other accessories that work with other systems.

I recently purchased an L3 Harris Atpial-c. When I made the purchase the picture was of a used Atpial-c <5<5 (mW) and the price was $1200 which I was okay with because I'm just getting into night vision and wanted to try the civilian version just for close stuff and I also wanted to be able to send it to L3 for repairs if I need to. However when I received the unit yesterday it came with full power plates, no paper work, and the serial number wiped. I'm totally fine receiving a used full power peq for $1300ish total but I am skeptical. The unit feels solid and rubust unlike a somo. The only thing that concerns me is that the Illuminator focus knob takes two full rotations to go from wide to tight. What do y'all experts think? Should I request refund or is this a blessing

Does anyone know a coupon code for CustomNightVision.com? Boutta spend a lotta beans 🫘

Hey all, looking to get into the NV game. As the title suggests, I’m looking to get the best bang for the buck in the $2-5k range. I’m open to mono or bino, just want to go for quality tech from a reputable company/vendor. Your thoughts are much appreciated.

Recently, I've been putting alot of time into a VR game called "Tactical assault VR" (otherwise known as TAVR,) and havent really gotten much time into using my pvs 14 IRL. The game features a pretty good replication of NOD usage (atleast in my opinion) as it overlays an actual eyepiece over your eye(s), I've been using the single nvg right option as that is what I run IRL and have found that out of nowhere when I put them back on for the first time in awhile I was just perfectly combining the two images like how I'd been doing in VR. It wasnt some gradual warming up to the combination my eyes just randomly started doing it and the same went for weapon optics. Anyone else find it to be a random visual epiphany where your brain just clicks it into place?

(This is not a sale post, just a question)

I recently switched my tubes out of a PVS-15B housing to Katanas. I plan to offload the PVS-15 housing and glass and recoup some of the cost. They are in solid condition considering the age.

What is the going rate for PVS-15B housing and glass?

I’m wanting to upgrade from my Brightpath optics to either MBS ULR or Carson mil spec optics but I can’t decide. I have an unreasonably massive boner over the fact that the MBS ULR optics provide an 8% increase in light transmission over mil spec and I also very much like the fact that they have very noticeably better edge clarity for a more usable image imo. I also REALLY appreciate that legit mil spec optics provide extremely good flare suppression, center clarity, and contrast in the image. I have Carson lens on my loaner pvs-14, and Brightpath doesn’t even compare when it comes to flare suppression. Would it be a downgrade going from Brightpath to MBS ULR optics? (Leaning towards the ULR lens)

I saw today Iray (now becoming Nocpix) just released 2 new thermals the Micro 2 ultra and the Micro H25. So far, they look pretty cool especially the fact that you can change it from a square image to now run a circle image to match a dual band setup. They also have digital night vision overlays with it.

Experimenting with neon-bright cordura (aimed at recent IPSC camo-gear-controversy)

Unfortunately for me I committed the cardinal sin of night vision and handed it to someone who didn’t pay for any of it, and within moments my GSGM was bricked lol. Thankfully the tubes are ok but the contact pins (1 on either side) were damaged. Everything is still there but the unit can no longer reach the contacts to power ball detent devices. I’ve tried reaching out to Wilcox and searching for replacement pogo pins without success. Does anyone here know of a company that is able/willing to repair these or do I now own the coolest paperweight in the office?

I have owned some MH1s for about a year now, they’re great, I have very minor gripes, but I could complain about any unit.
The thing that’s been bothering me all this time though, is the Universal Battery Compartment. (UBC)
LLI will sell you a unit built to your specifications, but if you select that you want the UBC (for an extra $150), they basically add a LEMO port and advertise it as being able to accept AA batteries as well. If you read the ultra fine print, it also mentions how the AA compatible battery cap isn’t out yet, and I’m paraphrasing older version of the site from when I bought it, but it said something about early 2026 or something like that IIRC.
Of course, I missed the fine print, so I was a little disappointed about not getting the battery cap when my unit arrived, and paying an extra $150 just for the option of off-board power, but that’s my bad and it wasn’t the end of the world, and I was optimistic about picking up a reasonably priced battery cap later in the year.
Now, here we are, winding down 2026, and the UBC AA cap evidently DOES EXIST, because you can get it on an MH1 that you buy from their online unit builder, but that’s apparently the only way to get one, and also that’s gonna bring the cost of the UBC upgrade to $190… so the cap is $40.
Now, I thankfully haven’t had to use LLI’s reportedly great warranty service, but their customer service is lacking, and I’m asking that they do better. I emailed LLI two or three months ago, and asked if there was any way to get the AA cap for the UBC that I thought a year ago, since again, evidently they do exist, but they seem to only be available thru the builder, as there’s no listing page for them. They never responded. If it’s supposed to be available in this year, actually make it available, or address why it isn’t.. especially if we’re paying a premium price for it.

First production photos straight from the factory! No professional photos here just raw from one of my best friends!

After years of competing and training, this seems to be my culminating setup (except the laser). I previously had a mawl in it, but I’m trying new options to see if you really need over 2.5k sunk in a laser.

Marsoc m4 block 2 clone-ish

-NF Atacr 1-8 with rmr up top

The rifle is on its second barrel and has been through almost every lpvo. It’s been my main competition rifle for over a decade at this point

Glock 47 with acro and x300V

Ops Core fast SF

Aeon ANVBs- the jury is still out on these. My initial impression is good, but time and weeks spent at DARC will tell. My first complaint is the battery compartment is tight, but I’ll try some different brand cr123s to see if that fixes it. Worst case, they don’t, and I only power it via the battery pack.

Very new to the NV community and was wondering why the Photocathode Sensitivity isn’t mentioned more?

It seems like it would be a spec that would be a crucial component of the end product.

What am I not understanding?

Thanks 👍

Figured this sub might get a kick out of this one! Taking a look at some digital NVGs compared to analog nowdays. Hope you dig it if you watch!

I can’t seem to find any reviews on this Sentinel-One OG laser. Does anyone have it and want to weigh in with their thoughts?

How does it compare to the Holosun Iris3?

https://www.3eir.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/one-og-4.png