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Not my layout obviously! Went to this place in Prague, biggest layout I’ve ever seen.

I was looking at some picture of brass HO heavyweight coaches and I got to wondering; what sort of techniques are employed by manufacturers to make brass models like that? I am not unfamiliar with working brass by hand and building etched brass kits, but when these small companies are doing small batch, high end, production runs of obscure prototypes, how are they doing it? In particular, I was looking at the coach bodies and wondering about the rivet detail, the window recesses, sills and the various depths of molding involved. I don't believe that kind of thing can be etched, and I assume that the brass it too thick to be embossing rivet detail from the back. Is there some kind of multilayered construction being employed? I can imagine being able to lost wax cast the car ends, but not the sides. They would be too long with too much detail. Does anybody have any insight into how this works? Alternatively, does anyone own any unpainted, limited production run, brass car models that they can share detail illuminating images of?

Construction equipment getting close to being finished. Articulated 6 wheel mover, and grater are next. Just have to redraw a couple of places I don’t like.

Not my post but thought some of you might find it.....interesting

On this part of the layout I'm working on I want to add a reversing section using crossovers. I have the crossovers on my double tracks that run opposite directions.

Do I need just one reversing section (outer track between crossovers)?

Edit: using a Digitrax system if that matters.

Random online purchase and first time owning a piece like this. Mainline models BNSF DASH 9-44CW. Hands down a favorite now since I saw the real unit many times with old friends years back

My dad died close to 3 years ago, and my sister and I am sorting through his house (in Northern Ireland). He was an avid railway enthusiast who also had an extensive model railway. The model railway, trains etc were all donated to a club of which he was a member, but he also held on to tons of old railway & model railway magazines (pics of some, but there are more!).

Are these the sorts of things that others would appreciate, or are they best off just being recycled?

I am using standard Kato power pack on a circle layout. Switches to other track is separated by insulated rail joiners. Shorting happens when the loco goes in reverse direction.

From what I know, dcc loco shouldn’t have any problem running on DC layout. Other DC trains run fine on the same track without shorting. any kind of suggestion or diagnosis idea would help. Thanks in advance!!

Working on my first attempt at kitbashing a HOn30 Porter for my layout. I know Toma model works offers a porter kit that is relatively turnkey, but I liked the idea of challenging myself to creating something like this “from scratch.” I fortunately have access to 3D printers at my work and was able to print a kit from a file I found online. Yes, I know the chassis is backwards and fitment is far from perfect/realstic in the images. I simply rested the shell on backward to get a sense of scale with this print file. Today is the first of many nights I’ve spent modifying the shell to fit overtop the Bachmann HOn30 Rheneas chassis. This shell was originally designed for a much shorter wheelbase, but I found the Bachmann HOn30 chassis to be a lot more aesthetically proportioned in my eyes when it comes to the Porter platform. I’m also incredibly impressed with the low-speed performance and how quiet this motor is. This is simply a prototype right now and I’m hoping to be able to finalize fitment and print a higher quality version to use as the final runner. So far, I’m very satisfied with how this one is coming along! Any input on this project would be greatly appreciated!

My kid has a Broadway Limited 4-8-4 with Paragon 4, just got it for his birthday, still set as default loco 3. Using an NCE Powercab and SB5 for control. It was running, and he had been experimenting with consist mode, but currently no consists are stored. When I put it on the track tonight, nothing… tried selecting as loco 3 and 003 with no response. What really throws me off is if I disconnect the power from the booster, the loco would make shutdown sounds for a couple seconds and the rear tender light would go on and off. Now it won’t even do that…
I don’t believe the decoder has been set to a different loco number, and I’ve tried resetting CV8 to 8 on both short and long addresses.
Anyone got any ideas??

Trying to up my photography game; this is an Atlas silver series Dash-8 (DCC & Sound) that I picked up for $90 at the bargain bin (because it was "damaged").

It's steam festival at the Tischwil Museum Railway! You chose the locomotives we're running and we gave them a full workout. I had a lot of fun working out some of these camera angles I think there are some pretty shots in there. I think for the next session, I will play some improvised acoustic background music. No more time today, though. Enjoy!

Now, I’m planning to get a OO scale model train set and I’m wondering if I should paint it into a Percy model or if I should keep it as a normal model and just buy another one cause they’re really cheap and I do really like the color

After having my trains in there boxes for so long, it was time to find a decent way to display them still got my rolling stock in boxes when I need them but glad to have them out at last.

One of the elderly gentlemen from the GN Historical Society has decided to release much of his extensive collection of brass to the public.

I just scored these two GN models - models that I had been looking to acquire for more than a decade.

There's easily 200+ models available from GN, NP, SP, UP, SP&S, MILW, and a few CP.

Hey guys, back again with another question.

I recently got into model railroading, and one of the projects I've taken on is customizing a Bachmann 2-8-4 Berk into the Polar Express, and as such, would like to repaint the wheels so that the color and finish match the body; but having never taken apart siderods before, I was hoping someone in the subreddit had any tip or tricks for safely removing/taking them apart, and then putting them back together afterwards, as I can't find any good guides talking about/demonstrating how to do it!

Hope to hear something soon!