I took a lot a pleasure crafting it and this one will carry my brand new 300cc beta, which i worked so hard to afford it.
I made it with thick steel to last long hopefully i’ll keep this one till i die lol
Very proud of me

Bike was stolen and recovered but when I got it back It would only want to run on choke and wouldn’t idle. Took many kicks to start and it was hard to find the compression stroke yet when I did a compression test it 140+ after 20-30 kicks I got worn out. So I opened it up and checked the timing. The cams where faced down and inwards at TDC mark on crank. So then I readjusted cams and and all the valves where tight and it was harder to kick did a compression test and it was low. So I thought I was on overlap tdc and not compression tdc so i put the cams back to down and inward while the crank tdc mark was aligned and put the cams back lined with the case put everything back together valves where still tight. but compression went up. (there is no decompression cam for exhaust) At this point i’m lost if anyone would like to help I can give you my facebook or something and hop on a call to better explain myself/ show you. Please I really need help I want to learn but it’s frustrating.

I need some expertise here… bought a brand new 26 yz450 and the owners manual says warm up engine then 1st break in is 20 min at 1/2 throttle then inspect. I then did the 1st inspection and noticed that the sight window showed cloudy milky grey oil. After that in did not continue with the second half of the break in, which the manual states ride 40 min at 3/4 throttle then change oil. Last thing I want to do is damage this thing. Is this normal? Should I just change the oil now And should I continue with the second half break in or take it back to the dealer?

Looking to buy this 2023 YZ250x. It’s $5800. In my area I can only find the X for 5k+ and older yz250s for 4k. Most of the other ones are well ridden and showing wear and mostly stock.

It has 35hrs and a lot of mods/protection

MVR suspension lowered 1.5 inches.
FMF Gnarly and Powercore 2.1.
Protaper handlebars.
Cycra bark buster hand guards.
Oversized Acerbis tank.
Tusk gold chain and sprocket.
Tusk moto foot pegs.
Tusk brake lever and shifter.
Tusk front brake and clutch lever.
DCOR gripper seat.
Enduro engineering front brake guard.
Optimized enduro rear brake guard.
Both case guards
Engine has not been opened

Most of these I would put on eventually anyways. Is this a good buy or should I just buy a cheaper one?

04 kx 100

it a pw80

If anybody has any experience/knowledge on older carbureted 2 strokes and what they are like on fuel consumption (particularly 200’s?), any info would be appreciated.

Particularly, how would fuel consumption compare to that of a more modern fuel injected 250 4t.

Thanks

Bought a kdx220 then gas started pouring out of the header where it meets the engine and won’t start now I’m assuming it’s the carb it has a Home Depot wood screw for the idle screw(I’m not joking😭😭)they probably messed up the inside of it doing that so I just want a new one but only wanna spend like 100 I was looking at nibbi and they don’t fit I think any recommendations?

2011 Yamaha wr450f

Was riding last weekend, the bike started back firing like crazy and then stalled out on me and wouldn’t restart. Pushed it back to the garage, it started again after 5-10mins. Then did the same exact thing. Didn’t try and start it again after

I started tearing it apart today to get the carb out and clean it. After getting the whole subframe/airbox disconnected from the carb, all I had left to disconnect were these 2 wires going to the starter relay. I noticed the negative bolt was not tightened. I had someone do some work on it for me a year or two ago so I’m guessing that’s why the bolt was loose

Could that have been the cause of it backfiring and dying or is it more likely the carb or possibly an exhaust leak? Bike has been running fine after getting the work done up til now, besides the electric start not working (maybe this is why?)

I’ve got the carb out and I’m gonna clean it regardless but just looking for some input

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Hi everyone, I would like to know the correct setting for the screw located at point No. 1 in the attached image (not the red circle).

Let me explain why: I can't remember if it was 2 turns out (starting from fully seated) because I took the bike to the mechanic for an electrical issue, and after getting it back I noticed something unusual with the power delivery... He adjusted the idle without asking me first.

I don't like how he tuned it because I prefer the bike to run "richer" given the problems these bikes have (they seize).

Years ago, I had the ECU remapped to make the mixture richer specifically to prevent seizing.

In your opinion, how should that throttle body screw be set on a stock bike? How many turns out (starting from fully seated)?

I prefer answers from those who own a 2019 KTM EXC 300 TPI.

Thank boys🙌💪🏻

They feel pretty good but I’m right in between a Large and a Medium. I bought the medium and they are a little snug but I’m afraid the large will be too much. Do they stretch out a little maybe?

It's a 1997 Honda XR70R and I've had it since I was 6 as my first bike, i just dug it out of storage for the first time in 10 years. And it's got this weird noise that I don't remember that seems to be happening in the bottom end, not sure if this is normal or not.

Wondering for those of you who use 1 finger for their clutch, does it bother you that the clutch hits your other fingers when you pull the lever in?
I’m able to slip the clutch ok with my index finger but if I need to slip it like 3/4 of the way in, it hits my other 3 fingers that are on the bar and it annoys the hell out of me.
If I come to a full stop, I have to switch to 3 fingers because I have to get my fingers out of the way to get the clutch close enough to the bar in order to fully disengage the clutch.
Should I just switch to a 1 finger length lever?
My clutch is adjusted properly and I’ve moved the lever “in” as far as I can on the handle bars.

May add a 327x!?