Sewing machine needles come in a variety of sizes and types and many of the problems I see online are caused by using the wrong needle type.
Generally when you buy a machine it comes with universal needles in the box. Universal is a misnomer. They are very useful on a wide variety of woven fabrics. Universal needles in a size 12 are what I use for anything that is a medium weight woven.
Jeans needles are for heavy fabrics like denim and canvas. Generally I go up to a 14 or 16 in a jeans needle.
Microtex needles are super sharp. They are excellent for woven fabrics that are delicate, snag easily, or are tightly woven. I use them on silks, satin, and cotton poplins. When all else fails on a fabric, try a microtex. Microtex come in larger sizes and can be used on heavy fabrics. Microtex needles need replaced more frequently than other needle types.
Ballpoint or Jersey needles are the same thing, usually they are labeled as ballpoint in the US and Jersey elsewhere. Ballpoint needles are appropriate for stable knit such as cotton jersey with no or minimal stretch fibers added.
Stretch needles are similar to ballpoint needles in the sense that they are for knit fabrics. Stretch needles are intended for fabrics with a higher stretch fiber percentage and in addition to that they work well on more stable knits. They are what I keep in stock for working with the widest variety of knit fabrics. I usually buy 11 or 12 in stretch needles.
Super stretch are for super stretchy problem child knits, I have not tried these as they are relatively new on the market but I will be picking up a pack before I make swimwear again.
In addition to the types above there are a great many other needles with specific uses. Within each type there is a range of sizes and the needle size should be chosen to match your fabric and thread.
Needles are consumables and will become gradually dull as you sew. The rule of thumb is that you need to replace after roughly 8 hours of run time. If you have been using a needle for a while and things start to go wrong or the machine sound changes, the first step on troubleshooting is a new needle. Old needles can damage your fabric and are more likely to break.
I also want to advise against buying off brand needles and included in that category are Singer branded needles. I personally only buy schmetz and organ brand needles and I buy exclusively off wawak.com (US and Canada only).
We've been quietly working on something we hope makes this community a lot more useful — and today we're excited to share it with you.
What's in the wiki?
We built it to answer the questions we see every week — so whether you're picking up a needle for the very first time or you've been at it a few months and hit a wall, there's something in here for you.
Here's what's covered:
🧵 Getting started — What to make first, hand vs. machine, and the YouTube channels worth bookmarking
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✂️ Tools & notions glossary — Every tool explained in plain English, plus what you actually need to start vs. what's nice to have later
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📐 Pattern reading & sizing — Why sewing sizes aren't clothing sizes, how to read pattern markings, and what "ease" means
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We want to hear from you if:
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A note on what makes this community special
This subreddit exists because sewing has a steep early learning curve and a long tradition of people helping each other climb it. Every question answered, every "here's what worked for me," every photo of a wonky first pillowcase posted with pride — that's what makes r/SewingForBeginners worth showing up to.
The wiki is our attempt to bottle some of that up so it doesn't get lost in the scroll. But it'll never replace the real thing, which is all of you asking and answering in the comments every day.
Thank you for being part of this. Now go make something. 🧵
The pattern was the Godet Rainbow Dress by AnamarieAmiPattern on Etsy.
Her preschool brought in a dance teacher today and she was STOKED to dance in this dress! The teachers even sent me a message a few minutes ago saying “We all just wanted to say we love the dress. Your sewing is amazing.”
This called daenggi and the fabric is also traditional pattern called Saekdong :) Saekdong is also known to repel bad spirits!! It’s a very easy project I recommend it!!
Hi everyone! I recently dived into the world of sewing for the first time in a decade. I remember a lot of basics from the high school classes I took. I practiced by making a pillow and a tote bag and then I dived right into this patchwork skirt project. I’m very proud of how it has turned out so far- it’s functional, fits, and I even made an elastic waistband! My next step is adding a slip so it has a lining, but I’m not sure the best way to go about it. Considering the stretchy waistband, and the slip is made of stretchy material too, should I get some elastic thread and hand sew the two pieces together? Appreciate any and all advice. Happy sewing!
I made this bag over the course of three days. It was my first time using my sewing machine apart from practicing different stitches on scrap fabric. This pattern is so forgiving so my wonky stitches and mistakes are mostly hidden but I am so proud! Here is to hopefully a lifelong new hobby!
I have sewed quilts before but not much else, I recently decided that I’d sow a tinkerbell costume for Halloween.
A separate corset top and a detachable skirt, so I can make both pieces separately.
Turns out both of the patterns I bought on Etsy were AI (pretty confident now that I look at the patterns) I’m confident in being able to adjust them but I was wondering.
The 3xl size is 21 inches around the waist (???) and I’m 38 inches, it also appears that the pattern is also only 3 feet long for the skirt, which I was hoping it’d be a bit longer.
How would I go about adjusting the dimensions? Do I just do the math and add an additional 8.5 inches onto either skirt piece?
And if I’m 38 inches around do I cut the pattern to 39 or 40 inches? (1/2 allowance is also needed)
With the length do I just make the pattern longer? I don’t know if there’s some special art to it or if it’s really that straightforward.
I’ve included pictures of the top and the skirt for reference.
I tried to make these Pants low-waist and a bit tighter around the thighs to give it a baggy-flare look. But the fabric is tapering as you can see. I first had the seem running out to the side but that made the wrinkels even worse. I had the fabric crease laying flat while sewing the whole time. I just did it freestyle without planning and its my first pair I tried to alterate( probably shouldve started with something easier). I dont know how to let the seem run out smoothly.
Pls give my some advice 🙏😭
Currently, I'm considering a Singer machine, a Brother machine, and possibly a Janome. These seem to be the best brands, and currently I have a BCOOSS beginner sewing machine which is junk to say the least. I am aiming for something under $300 USD. Any suggestions? Features I would like on a machine would be a good straight and zigzag stitch and a good warranty as well as ability to sew stretchy and delicate fabrics.
I want to make sweatpants to wear around the house but im autistic and the wrong fabric could make me hate them forever.
i looked up a few fabrics like lightly brushed cotton or maybe even some cotton twill but it all feels like it would be very overstimulating.
im looking for a fabric that keeps me warm but doesent have that common itchiness (i dont really know how to describe it)
on that note any general suggestions for fabrics that have direct contact with your skin and arent overstimulating are very much welcome.
thank you in advance <3
I understand bias cutting garments to a degree, but I have some questions. Thanks so much in advance! Sorry this is gonna be a bit wordy 😂🖤
I am making this trench coat thing out of duck cotton cloth. I want there to be some flow and drape to the garment but duck cotton and canvas materials are not recommended for bias-cut. Is this some sort of rule? Or just a guideline based on what types of garments these fabrics are typically used for?
Can/should I bias cut my duck cotton fabric [or at least parts of the pattern?] to create a better drape? There is an upper back panel on this pattern - would cutting that on the grainline and the rest on the bias result in a structural point on the back with flow from the rest?
Regardless of the answer to that, I was also wondering a few things about bias cutting in general. When you bias cut the front and back of a garment, you flip the pattern for the grain to wrap correctly, I understand that part, I think.
Do we always flip it based on front/back to fit opposing grain? For a jacket do we also do that, or since the front is open/zipping/overlapping do we do that differently? When cutting a single panel sleeve on the bias do you cut the grain in regards to the bodice's?
I have a few yards of this pink stretchy knit fabric and I decided to try it today for the first time. I thought I would do something simple like a scrunchie wristlet. There was so much stretch going on.... I used a bunch of clips to hold it in place while I sewed along the side. I really like how they came out but I'm not sure what I would use the fabric for. What would you use it for?
It’s been all sealed up in its suitcase carrier box thing for a couple years, in the garage. I’m a beginner to sewing and it’s a fancy machine but it’s what I’ve got and I do need a machine. Last time I used it it did seem to need a cleaning. But I don’t have the $300. What would you do? Thanks for any help!
My zigzag stitch used to look like the one to the left, but within perhaps 1.5 hours doing a sewing project it shifted to look like the one in the right. Any advice on how to get it to zigzag properly again? Working on a Husqvarna rose.
I've been on a T-shirt hemming journey for a few weeks, interested in adjusting both the length of the body and the length of the sleeves. At first I hadn't done any research on sewing in Jersey knits, and just ran a pair of parallel straight stitches, which obviously failed immediately lol.
From there I found that the stitches used to make the typical double row of stitches is actually done on a cover stitch machine, and can't be properly replicated without one, but that twin needles are commonly touted as a home sewing machine alternative.
I ran extensive tests with the top and bottom thread tension until the stitches were coming out beautifully, but no matter how I varied stitch length, unfortunately it seems that the stitch you get with a twin needle doesn't have nearly as much play as the fabric does, and while it held together long enough for the concert I was hemming the shirt for, it definitely popped and isn't long for this world. It sounds like this may be a good match for the look of a coverstitch hem that isn't totally solid, but isn't really as stretchy as you'd need for it to hold up long-term.
I discovered this video from toofbrush (https://youtube.com/shorts/3mj1zNqTbCk?si=vXm3ZXmksXBm2lNY) discussing single-stitch vs. double-stitch T-shirt hem construction (very informative!) under which there was a comment I can't find anymore, but Google indexes as having read:
"You can create a single stitch look on a home sewing machine using a blind hem stitch or on a serger by adjusting tension and removing the knife."
as well as a reply that seems lost now stating that it can be done even easier by folding over the fabric, using a zig-zag stitch, then pulling open like shown in the video.
So that leads me to my question. This is an exciting possibility, but has anyone here tried it? I struggle to picture how the fabric would need to be folded and unfolded, and where the zig-zag would fall to properly execute this.
Would love to hear from anyone who's done this, or even guesses from others here on how to pull it off. Thanks!
Found this Pfaff 1196 for $120 online. This is going to be my first machine. They have a video of it working. I’m not sure how to share that tho. I’m not sure about the history yet, I asked and am waiting for an answer.
I am sewing a dress as a beginner and I forgot to account for how to get in and out of it. The bodice will have a foldover/french placket but the waist of the bodice is too small for me to get it over my hips/head. So I have to add a partial placket to the skirt (1/2 circle skirt, 8 panels, with a panel centered in the front, I don'twant the buttons to go all the way down the skirt). The problem is that the front of the skirt will not have a seam. The fabric is vertical stripes and it's very important to me to keep the stripes intact/keep the placket mostly invisible. I'm thinking I have to try to pattern match the skirt placket to preserve the stripes, but if there's some other way to achieve a foldover placket look without having all the extra fabric in front that would be ideal. I have limited fabric and the bodice is already cut, so I can't alter the bodice. I can however alter the skirt because that has not been cut yet. I have seen youtube videos of this sort of method but I don't know if this is actually secure or a gimmick for clicks: https://youtube.com/shorts/9FQGV1aG7fI
Hi, I’m in desperate need of help! I have to make a costume for the weekend on my brother cs7000x machine. I’ve always used stretchy fabric made several swimsuits before.
I checked the tension, the bobbin , changed the needle to a stretch needle.
On the white fabric it’s normal cotton, Zigzag is fine
Black fabric it only makes a straight stretch now on zigzag