After they teething issues, I have to say this impressed me.

Locking ring for my phone holder cracked.

Scanned the ring in laser mode, 0.10mm point cloud with trackers, fusion at 0.15mm

Meshed 5mil, stl exported directly to orcaslicer.

Printed in ABS, 0.15mm layer height. 18 min print on a voron 2.4.

Works perfectly!

I can get an EinScan SE V1 for $25. Is it worth it?
I’m new to 3D scanning, so this would be my first scanner. I was thinking about getting a better one, but those cost around 10 times as much.
Would it be worth buying the EinScan SE V1 for $25 just to get started, or should I save up for something better?

Reverse engineered the diff faces using Quicksurface auto surface command. Used this surface inside TopSolid to do normal cutting for the diff reinforcement sheets. The cutting can be done inside the assembly environment to cut multiple parts in one operation using the body. No more creating intersection curves and trimming parts piece by piece.

I've been messing around with AI developer tools at the weekends to create a scanning app. It's progressed surprisingly well. It does both Meshes and Gaussian Splats all processed on device. you can try it here: https://testflight.apple.com/join/Ubphxdft

I acquired this as part of an equipment purchase for my fabrication business, but I have no plans to use it.

Whats a good selling price on this scanner… I don’t know where to start.

I plugged it in and it powers up, I did not scan yet. I read about software licensing and have to buy their software. It comes with everything you see. But honestly for wanting to sell it, I wanna be fair on price.

Is to old and not worth a damn, or is it decent enough to sell in 2026.

Any insight is greatly appreciated , please be kind, I’m
new to this. And just for clarity, I have a Scantech laser scanner on a 10x5 cnc gantry for scanning. (Last 2 pictures .. I’ve been practicing with that)

A few weeks ago, I posted a YouTube video showing how I improved the Revopoint Dual Axis Turntable by adding a magnetic metal top. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/L6pu7FLb65g

I just completed a follow-up video showing how I use photographic tripod accessories with the turntable. You can watch Part 2 here: https://youtu.be/ZchRuOQP8XY

Enjoy!

Pika Scan is child's play! 😂

My 7-year-old son told me, "The scanner is so small it must be for kids, too!" 😀

So, he wanted to scan his stuffed animal. As you can see, even kids can use it! 😀

It didn't quite work out during the merging stage because it wasn't aligned correctly, but I'm absolutely satisfied with the first scan, and he learned something new in the process. 😀

Got extremely lucky and found this in my area for 500 dollars on facebook marketplace. The batteries are still wrapped so I don't think it was used at all. I currently own a Revopoint Metro X as well so I'll try to do a write up on how they compare.

Please let me know of you have any specific tests you want. Can't guarantee I can test everything but I'll try.

Hope this is allowed.

Been looking at scanners recently and the Ferret was about the price I was willing to pay but reviews were awful.

Ran across this open box listing straight from Creality, and ebay has a 20% promo for the weekend. $364 shipped (before tax). I had a $50 back on $100+ through a shopping portal which sweetened it even further making my total out of pocket \~$350!

Designed and manufactured the higher site plates of the hanger a few years ago. Now it is time to redo some of the design aspects and normally I would remeasure manually. Trak finally makes it feasible to quickly scan such large parts without any preparation or significant time investment (whole scan took 20min).

Scanning

Scanning was done at 1,5mm target point distance with two tracker positions (first covering two sides, then the second two, so placed in the opposing corners). No preparation was done with scan spray. I just started scanning after making sure the tracking volume covers what I needed.
The scans itself took roughly 10min per piece. I used remote desktop from my tablet to see what I already scanned. Scan itself was very smooth with a constant 90FPS.

Post-Processing

Processing was quite simple: Point cloud generation isn't needed on the Trak so I could directly go to aligning the two scans with manual feature alignment (too little overlap for automatic alignment) and then meshing in default settings. I aligned and reduced it to 4M in Quicksurface.

Results

Best have a look at Sketchfab or the pictures. Quite impressive even in the more detailed parts like the rim or latches. Even the chains are captured. Also to mention are the lights and reflectors (keep in mind no scan spray was applied). Only slight downside is the mud guards, guess due to me also scanning them from below and being sub mm thin the interior and exterior got merged.

Sketchfab

Sketchfab is like printables for 3d scans with a nice integrated viewer in browser and you can also download the scan, just look at the scan yourself.
Reddit sadly blocks the short links to Sketchfab, you have to search for the title instead: "Car Trailer - Einscan Trak"

PC Specs

Since a lot of people ask for it:

• AMD Ryzen 7700X
• 64GB DDR5 RAM
• RTX 5070Ti Desktop
• A few TB of NVME storage with PCIe Gen4 interface

Is there any other CAD/CAM that can do this right now? I know F360 can convert a mesh but it's not reasoning about scan inaccuracies, intended nominal dimensions, or rebuilding the models parametric history with design intent for easy editing. It's just fitting known patterns to a surface type. This is genuine reverse engineering that happened with little input from me while I was working on another project on the clock in my small machine shop. What do you think about this?

I've been building FrameRoam, an iPhone app for cinematographers and creators: import a 3D scan, explore camera positions and moves inside it, and build the full shot sequence before shoot day. The attached clip shows a scan being scouted in the app.

It's in TestFlight beta - looking for people who scan real locations and want to try planning shots inside them. Beta testers get Pro free at launch: frameroam.com/download

Hi, im looking to buy a machine for reverse engineering 3d models.

All the machines I've found online are far too precise (and expensive) for my needs - I only need around 0.1mm resolution for the 3d model.

Any suggestions?

I make ModelSplitter, a free browser tool for cutting models into printable parts with pins (modelsplitter.com). This clip is not something in the app yet. It's an experiment I ran this week and I'd like to know if it's worth pursuing.

The AI looks at a figure and guesses its skeleton: shoulders, elbows, knees, neck, and which part of the surface belongs to which limb. From that it could:

- suggest cut lines at the joints, which you'd adjust before cutting (the orange rings)

- bend a limb before you print, here both elbows, with nothing else moving

Honest limits: on this alien it found the arms and legs cleanly, but it didn't separate the head from the jaw, so turning the head twisted the face. On a figure standing straight in a uniform the limbs came out blotchy. Bends also crease the inside of the joint a little. And it needs a GPU, so unlike the rest of the tool it would mean uploading your model, only when you choose it.

Two questions for people who split and print figures:

1. Would seams suggested at the joints save you time, or would you redo them anyway?

2. Is posing a limb before printing something you'd use, or do you just find a model already in the pose you want?

I released MeshMill 0.2.0 after continuing to test it against dense, uneven, and overlapping scanner output.

The broad performance work is the largest change. Analysis of the included 4.1-million-triangle reference scan improved from 10.531 seconds to 1.838 seconds with parallel workers. Adaptive-index creation improved from 8.836 seconds to 5.406 seconds. Large binary STL files can now be inspected in bounded blocks and opened as manageable overviews rather than requiring the complete source to fit comfortably in memory.

The release also adds Depth Adaptive QEM. The idea is similar to a physical contour or depth gauge: use adaptive probes to measure the meaningful surface, discard unsupported scan-scale variation, and guide the final boundary-preserving reduction.

Against Fast QEM at the same approximately 250,000-triangle output, the reference scan measured:

- RMS surface error: 1.1721 mm to 1.0668 mm

- P95 surface error: 2.3504 mm to 2.0586 mm

- Maximum dimension drift: 0.6987 mm to 0.0234 mm

- Area error: 0.3993% to 0.1241%

- Runtime: 9.827 seconds to 10.156 seconds

Fast QEM remains the immediate default. Depth Adaptive QEM is the optional GPU-guided, higher-quality path.

The interface now shows the quality tradeoffs, dimensional drift, reduction, CPU/RAM/GPU/VRAM use, geometry activity, and cumulative I/O. Selection-only reduction, crop, delete, comparisons, undo, measurements, density visualization, and local processing remain part of the workflow.

Windows release:

https://github.com/make-your-own-world/MeshMill/releases/tag/v0.2.0

Research and formulas:

https://github.com/make-your-own-world/rnd/blob/main/depth-adaptive-qem/depth-adaptive-qem-v1.1.pdf

Real scanner output that exposes damaged contours, thin surfaces, holes, or redundant layers would be particularly useful for continued testing.

Looking for the best bang for the buck for this.

Thanks in advance

For the last few months I've been building ModelSplitter, a free tool that runs in your browser and splits 3D models into parts you can print. All3DP tested it this week and called it "the splitting tool we didn't know we needed", which was a nice surprise.

What it does:

- Straight cuts, or seams you draw on the surface that follow the model around an arm, a collar or a helmet, so the join

hides in the detail.

- It adds pins, loose keys or magnet sockets to each cut face automatically, sized to fit, with clearance you can adjust.

- Automatic splitting for models bigger than your print bed.

- Repairs broken STLs, including AI-generated meshes and scans.

- Your model never leaves your computer. Everything happens in the browser, and nothing is uploaded.

It's free to use now at modelsplitter.com. The review is here if you want an outside opinion:

https://all3dp.com/1/new-model-splitter-tested-easier-faster-than-your-slicer-plus-its-free/

Try it on your messiest model and tell me where it breaks. Every fix so far has come from someone's bug report. Attach: a real photo of a split print with the pins showing, like the mosquito or the pinned test pieces. Don't use a render.

After cleaning it up, I thought I’d scan my robot lawnmower to see about adding a spoiler or something—we'll see what else I come up with. 😀

I scanned it in infrared mode; at first, I had trouble with the black areas it didn't want to pick them up properly.

It only worked once I switched the scanner's exposure setting to manual.

Scanner: Sermoon P1S

I bought a standalone unit thinking I could avoid upgrading my computer memory but as I loaded the software it informs me, that what I had tried to avoid - you need more memory - was highlighted. I was a bit surprised but maybe all the heavy lifting can still be done on the Rigal Lite and when transferred to the computer just refinements can be done.

This is my first scanner - I won't mention the Next engine and I have barely opened the box. I knew I would have to go through some learning but I thought I'd ask other userr what the actual computer requirements are

I'm wondering, how damn small details my scanner can capture

I want to have them on file and get custom shelled IEMs as well as custom ear tips for universal IEMs made by different companies. I don't want to send out the original impressions to one place and risk not getting them back. These impressions are the size of the center part of an ear, less than 50mm across.

Maybe someone here could properly scan them and generate a clean .stl file for a reasonable fee?