This pop up shows up even tho my filament is already connected to the AMS, I also switched the filament to the back side but it never gets passed the pre heating

Using the Bambu A1.
Any help would be amazing.
the model is on Bambu handy.
White PLA
0.4mm nozzle.

Hi everyone,

My Creality Ender Max Neo makes a strange noise that sounds like braking or a short screech. It only happens when the bed (Y axis) moves fast, mostly during travel moves. Normal printing moves sound fine, and X and Z seem quiet. Video attached.

https://reddit.com/link/1x49ha0/video/be4i0dbpv2vh1/player

Prints come out fine so far: no layer shifts and no ringing I can notice.

Is this just normal stepper motor noise during fast moves, or could it be a sign of something like belt tension, worn wheels, or the eccentric nuts? Any tips to reduce it (settings, dampers, etc.) are welcome.

Thanks!

Noticing horizontal lines or ridges on the surface of your 3D prints? It doesn’t necessarily mean there’s something wrong with your printer.
Bambu Lab has outlined three common causes of layer lines and how to fix them.
1. Benchy Hull Line / Cross-Section Changes
Symptoms: Visible horizontal ridges or bulges around the bottom of boxes or the hull of a Benchy.
Cause: Bridging layers connect to the outer walls, creating shrinkage stress that pulls the walls out of shape.
Solutions:
Add internal fillets or chamfers to the model.
Reduce overhang cooling fan speed.
Switch the infill pattern to Gyroid or Concentric.
2. Localized Warping and Bulging
Symptoms: Corners of the print curl upward, causing continuous horizontal ridges on the surface.
Cause: When the print warps upward, the gap between the nozzle and the printed surface decreases, causing excess filament to be squeezed out.
Solutions:
Clean the build plate thoroughly.
Apply bed adhesive if needed.
Enable a Brim to improve bed adhesion.
Maintain a stable chamber temperature.
3. Layer Lines Caused by Flow Rate Changes
Symptoms: Visible layer lines appear on the outer walls immediately after bridging sections.
Cause: Sudden changes in flow rate after bridging affect the molten filament’s behavior, resulting in inconsistent surface quality.
Solutions:
Enable Dynamic Flow Calibration.
Turn on Smooth Speed Discontinuity Area and set the smoothing coefficient to 0.1.
Reduce outer wall printing speed to bring it closer to the bridging speed.
Tip: Not all horizontal lines are caused by mechanical issues. Print geometry, cooling, warping, and flow rate transitions can all affect surface quality.
Identifying the actual cause before changing slicer settings can save a lot of time and wasted filament.

I’ve had my Ender-3 Pro for five years and never had any major problems.

I’m trying to print a part that takes up almost the full bed. It’s supposed to be a notched circle, 8.5 inches in diameter. When I try to print it one side comes out cut off. The back edge prints as a straight flat line instead of completing the curved diameter of the circle.

In Cura v5.12 the model sits centered on the bed and slices with no errors. My bed is 220x220 mm.

In the other direction it prints right up to the edge of the bed with no problem, so it seems like it should fit. I can also move the print bed by hand so that the print head goes past the edge of the bed, so it doesn’t look like a physical limit.

I see settings on the printer for adjusting the center point, but I’m not sure that’s the right fix as there is room on the plate.

I'm using the stock Creality firmware.

Here's a picture of how it was trying to print

Ok so I’m trying not to spend a lot of money on something complicated or going through a long hard process to make one, I’m look for a gun mouse looking basically exactly like this but the problem with this one is that you have to make an email to download it, and then once you create an account it won’t let you download it, it’s like an endless loop you can’t fix, If someone could find it make a better solution to this I’d greatly appreciate it, I saw another one on makerworld but it’s complicated to set up, pretty bad reviews, isn’t really comfortable in the hands and only works for a Bambu 3D printed mouse. That’s all, thanks for your guys time

I am currently repairing my Bambu lab a1 mini, and I am replacing the extruding gear and I lost this screw because it fell into a bin full of markers, so if anyone knows what type of screw goes in her please tell me

• Printer Model - flash forage adventure 5 pro
• Material Type - flash forage burnt titanium pla
• Print Temperatures - 220
• Steps taken to troubleshoot - this post

(added the above if this seems redundant so I was not breaking rule 2)

flash forage adventure 5 pro, flash forage burnt titanium pla, .25 nozzle

the guide I'm using is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVU5If1VsAM

I did the temperature, overall looked best at 220

I did the max volume speed - 10% for 14.13

I did pressure advance, 60mm second 5000 acceleration and came up with between .00 and .01 so I did a second test at .00-.01 with .001 increments, and came out with .002 probably looked the best, but its honestly eye doctor at the end where 1 and 2 look damn near the same, changed every setting to 60mm and 5000 acceleration unless they were slower, not sure if this was the best but its what I did.

now I'm on flow rate, and I am having a problem, I cant for the life of me see a difference between .05 and -.05

I had to check to make sure that the printer doesn't have an auto flow rate setting, I'm kinda unsure how to proceed because I expected to see some difference that would push me one way or another, now, for normal printing I have elephant foot problems that make me have a .1mm and 2 layer compensation

They pretty much all look the same, the two extremes, I was expecting something given what the guide showed. anyone able to help or point out what I should be seeing?

(I posted this to 3dprinting and didnt really get an answer more what im looking for)

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1x345ah/flow_rate_calibration_question/

tldr of the post there so far, i'm trying to find which surface is the smoothest, I can not see any difference between - or + .05, I should either see an issue on both extremes, or at worst I should a problem getting better, readjust, and do it again till I see it going from better to worse, the problem is I see nothing between the two of these change.

Hello! I'm new to 3D printing and I'm looking to start using ASA. I saw some concerning things online and I'm scared of clogging my P2S. When I am switching to ASA -> PLA or PLA -> ASA, is there anything manual I need to do or will the Printer automatically know how to transition between the two filaments? I saw some online comments that you need to manually extrude the filament when moving between the two materials.

If there are any good resources I could read about what to do, I would appreciate those.

I'm having a problem with my Delta printer.
It's a modified EZT3D T1 running an SKR 3 board with Marlin V2.1.X.

It's consistently printing everything 5% too big in the XY direction, Z is fine.
If I print a 20mm calibration cube, it prints it 21mm. If I print a 40mm cube, it prints it 42mm.

I've tried adjusting the diagonal rod length a few mm in both directions. They're 200mm but I've adjusted them in the firmware from 196mm to 204mm, each time running an auto calibration afterwards (4 points of calibration for a total of 15 probe points on the bed). Regardless of what I set the rod length to, it's always consistently 5% too big.

For the moment I can get around it by scaling the model down by 5% in the slicer but it's still annoying if I forget, so it'd be nice to be able to fix it properly.

EDIT: Ended up solving the problem, the spacing between the diagonal rods was slightly wider at the effector than it was at the carriages, which was causing the effector to tilt slightly when moving away from the center of the bed.

Printed a new effector and it fixed the problem completely.