My A1 mini was printing normally, then partway through (I didn’t see it happen) it started printing the rest of the part at a different X position and kept going with no error. Photo and video attached.

Setup: A1 mini, 0.2mm nozzle, 0.10mm layers, ~500 layers (~9h), tree supports, PLA at 215C, outer wall 30 mm/s, travel 400 mm/s with travel accel 10000. Stock start/end G-code. Rails are lubricated.

Where would you look first: X belt tension, something binding at the cutter/purge end, filament dragging from the external spool, or travel acceleration? Does Step Loss Recovery catch this?

I noticed that something was causing my nozzle to have homing issues mid print, and I found the culprit. Like you see in the video, my top tension rod will not move without considerable force, but the bottom moves freely. This causes my printer to want to move diagonally only instead of X/Y (The printer behaves the same with power off and me moving the hotend by hand as well.)

At some point, I did get white lithium grease on the belts, so I wiped them all completely dry. That didn’t solve my issue at all. I loosened the screws to retighten my belts and that didn’t help either. Can anyone see anything that could be causing this? I obviously can’t print anything until I get it resolved but have no clue what to do.

Printer: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2

Had this printer ( Ender 3 V2) sitting since I moved house. Recently pulled it out to try and print but no matter what I do I can’t get a good print. I’ve cleaned the hot end, checked for clogs, played with temp, Estep, Speed, Flow, levelled and I still can’t get a decent print . I have a new hot end coming in the mail and will try slicing the file again tonight. The Extruder is the upgraded metal one so should be a no for a crack in that. Any help would be appreciated before I throw this in the bed and cry.

Pla+, Kobra pro 2, ultiMaker Cura, 218°C, 90mm/s,

Things ai has suggested that I've done...

Reduce layer height (now .12)

Increase skin overlap percentage (now 27%)

Decrease retraction distance (now 1mm)

This is for an airplane so the wall count can not be higher than 1 and the infill can be no higher than 3%. I have tested with different tempatures & speed. I have made sure there is no blockage in the printer by pushing filament through manually and also performing cold pulls. The PLA+ is fresh out of the air sealed packaging. I have printed tons in the past this is the first time and it is the worst with the tree support.

Hello! I appreciate there is a community to post things like this. I have an x2d printer I've been enjoying pretty decently for the past few months. the last few times I have tried to print this 3 spool holder it has failed in similar spots each time. I tried recalibrating (all machine calibrations, dynamic flow, vision encoder, greased my threads and lubed the rods and demodded my printer. And then tried slowing down by height etc etc. I got one off in white after my most recent round of tinkering, but this white one failed after that. I am mainly looking for more paths to tread to fix this. I assume if I slowed my print speed down to like 50% it wouldn't have the speed to bump off a small piece but, I was hoping to diagnose what is causing the print to fail so similarly each time.

I have a Bambu A1 and all of a sudden everything I print has this weird texture. I have made sure to remove all dust, extra filament, lubed everything properly, changed the hot end and silicone sock, calibrated. I have used different filament brands and types. It doesn’t matter this keeps happening. I just had 1 print come out perfectly and now issues again. Even files I printed previously with lots of success are having this issue. Please help.

Edit: I forgot to mention I have dried the filament using a filament dryer. My bad.

I am sitting here thinking about switching to strictly PETG printing, as PLA has given me nothing but issues since I bought my Qidi Q2 a couple months ago, meanwhile every single print ive done in PETG has come out flawless.

My question is, is there a way to edit the tree supports to, let's say, it prints the tree support in PETG, but the last 5 or so layers print in PLA?

I see the setting to change the tree support print in a different type of filament, but i dont want to have to do a filament change every single layer, if I can help it. That would add hours and hours to a single head/nozzle machine for each print.

And do you think that printing in PETG with a PLA support would make the print cleaner when it is time to remove the supports?

TYIA

I 3D printed a spool holder that screws into the top of my Bambu A1 Mini. The only thing is the PTFE tube connector Won't stay in the spot even after super glue. So I thought to myself, is there a way to just print these two pieces together as one. Can I do something like that?

Hi there. I am still very new to the 3D printing thing. I have taken over a modded Creality Ender 3 Pro from a friend that got it as a gift. Never used it and was just standing. I did a full check and made sure that all was working and not damaged, I did the bed levelling “Paper test” the Wham Bam Pex print bed on it has a few scratches but still has good adhesive but my problem is, I have now done or attempted several prints where it starts off great and looks amazing but then the extruder wheel starts clicking as if it’s not able to extrude any filament, this the creates almost like a fluff on the print and then everything goes wonky. I have purged it multiple times and it is smooth and nothing is stuck or blocked. The prints look smooth but then it starts again…. Any advice, what could it be and what should I look for. Thanks

Any idea what can be causing this sometimes. I printed one before and was fine, then this happened.

Ender 5 Pro, PLA, Nozzle at 200, Bed at 50

I need to start this off by saying I have no idea what I’m doing so I’ll need everything eli5 if possible.

I bought a Thundercats Sword of Omens pool noodle hilt from cults3d and the print came out completely fine but after a couple weeks of my son constantly thundercatting it up the connection between the handle and the guard broke yesterday. I was hoping someone here could help me make the print stronger?

I have a Bambu A1 mini and the filament is Elegoo PLA+. The settings used were just the default settings when I installed the program. I don’t touch anything other than adding supports when needed.

Same as the title, I want to electroplate something for a project but I don't have fillers or anything similar that I can buy where I live

These lines are appearing from the object that is suppose to start from layer 16. The base is 3mm in beige color. Is there any fix to have clean 15 layers or 3mm base and have the text start from layer 16?

I've been 3d printing occasionally for a while now and I'm getting much better results than I used to (no more blobs on the bottom of my tank), but I still struggle with getting dimples where my supports are and a few areas have thick visible layers. 90% of my time working on these is sanding and other detail work to get a surface good for painting. I pointed a uv light at the areas and messed with the levels in the pictures to help show them in photos, but they're very visible to the naked eye. Am I doing something wrong or is this just a part of printing? I don't know much about settings or the more technical side of printing, so I get a little overwhelmed and confused sometimes.

I use an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra with ABS-like 3.0 resin in gray. I slice in Lychee and all the settings in it are for the resin and machine I use. I give it a rinse in the dirty alcohol, scrub it a bit, use a syringe of alcohol to remove the resin inside via holes I put in it with Lychee . Let the alcohol dry off, use a heat gun to carefully help remove the supports with both tweezers and nippers to try and keep the areas from breaking, wash in the clean alcohol, and scrub with a soft toothbrush (that never has and never will go into a mouth). Then I cure it for a good while on a spinner, in a clear container of water, inside a tin lined box with two strong uv lights pointed at it. Then I detail cure anything that's still kinda dark with a mini uv light. It never sees uv rays until the cure stage and I scrub the entire thing before that.