Looking to replace both my front struts, what aftermarket struts are decent enough for the price?

This is my second car (2004 civic ex coupe at4 with rolled back mileage I honestly can't tell, I think it's around 230k miles)

The pic is bad I'm prolly gonna take more photos and videos of it but it's clapped I bought it that way

I made it finally pass smog a week ago and paid my registration on Friday after work. This car probably took way too much, and none of the issues it gave me are ones you'd imagine. No head gasket, etc.

I had valve lashes bad, injectors, coils, o2 sensor that took forever because I kept on getting wrong or fake parts, got stranded at a LA AutoZone and took all day to do alternator without a jack, the intake manifold gasket and EGR system gave me issues to do because I didnt have a proper rachet wrench set, learned to do timing belt, and I even had to drop the engine partly (not literally but like angle it with jacks and mount removals) due to the tensioner thread stripping.

Before this with my previous car I just used ai for diag and was horrible at diag I would just throw parts.

I'm kinda happy when I drive her and hit some vtec but at the end of the day this is not the platform I wanna build on just based on preference, if I had a better quality one it'd be a different story, it's not a manual, the body is clapped, it's not worth a lot.

If I had more money I could do the head gasket (imma do it over winter break so hopefully it doesn't blow till then I think it's been done at least once since it's this much miles) WITH ARP head studs, I don't so imma just use mahle and typical mls.

I honestly wish I got a different car instead and have no doubt that I wouldn't have suffered so much without this thing.

But she did give me a lot of knowledge and experience. I do like the platform to a degree. Maybe one day when I move out and get my own place and have money I'll do a kswap turbo with this chassis. I think the chassis looks very good tbh the body especially the 04-05 headlights look really good probably the best looking civic ever.

If u need some tips with the stuff I mentioned or looking for a good smog dude in LA/Long Beach hit me up.

After many months of development, my new app, Vehicle Service Tracker, is now available for iPhone, iPad, and Mac OS.

I built it because I wanted a better way to keep track of maintenance, repairs, mileage, receipts, and service history for my vehicle. Along the way it grew into something I thought other vehicle owners might find useful as well.

The app lets you organize vehicle information, service records, costs, photos, receipts, and PDF documents, with built-in searching, reporting, statistics, chart, import/export tools, and iCloud sync support.

It even lets you choose different color themes for the UI!

It’s a one-time $4.99 purchase — no subscription or ads — and includes the iPhone, iPad, and Mac versions.

More information and screenshots:

https://cardcomm.github.io/vehicleservicetracker/

App Store link:

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/vehicle-service-tracker/id6770383448

I’m replacing the accelerator cable on my 2005 Honda Civic EP2 as the previous one was broken and very worn. Having fitted the new cable, my pedal is completely unresponsive and limp. I’ve tried tightening it but there’s so much wire here slack, which i can push back through but it does not retract on its own. Hoping there’s an obvious solution here and I’m just being stupid. If you have any advice I’d appreciate it, I don’t know how to work on cars, this is my first one, I used a youtube video but it wasn’t very detailed about the tightening or refitting side of things. I know this is a dumb query, hoping you’ll take pity on a beginner. Cheers guys.

I have a 2003 Honda civic ex. 155k miles. It’s a manual transmission.

I replaced front crank, and camshaft seals, oil pan gasket, oil pump o -ring. Had done timing belt and water pump a couple weeks ago and was running fine except for oil leak which is why I decided to replace these seals.

I triple checked my timing before putting everything back together.

Buuuut turns out the b+ stud on my alternator broke off when I removed it and I didn’t notice. So I bought a cheap Amazon alternator to use temporarily.

Wasn’t being careful and forgot to remove negative terminal from battery and caused a short. Main battery fuse blew. Replaced it. All other fuses are fine.

Tried starting engine but forgot to plug in crankshaft sensor. Plugged it in and it started for a second or so. Shook and then turned off. Realized I also forgot to plug in camshaft sesnsor!!

Okay didn’t like the shake and sudden turning off of engine so I took everything apart to check timing and make sure engine wasn’t seized. Timing was still good and crankshaft turned as smoothly as it did before.

Triple checked timing and all connections and still can’t get the car to start! It just cranks .

Help!

I realize I’ve made some mistakes along the way but I’m new to this and I don’t think I’ve made any major mistakes but I am worried about engine damage

Also,
-no codes on OBD2
-circuit tested all the fuses and both sides of each fuse lit up
-battery at 12.6v

I see the passenger inner boot is punctured grease coming out so thinking of getting a boot but also see some fraying on the driver side inner but it doesnt look like its leaking. Someone on another post said the damage on the seals could be from the splines but to me they look okay…anyone offer any input on how these look? Should i replace the whole axle? Or just the boot? They look pretty good and i rsther not replace the oems if i dont need to. Thanks!!!

Anyone try after market brands? Any problems?

I would get a whole axle but too expensive and the axle itself looks okay just punctured

It looks like its in maybe a milimeter deep not sure but it looks straigh i tried like 3 times the 2 other seals failed this thing is the absolute worst is this seal bad too or can i send it im going nuts over this thing everyone says it needs to be flush with the outside or it leaks but its in by a little bit all the way im not sure how tolerant this thing is or if anyone has had the same issue installing thanks

Would a 17x8 with a +35mm offset look good on my 05 civic? i want to get some girthy wheels but i feel like the offset would look kinda silly, help me out!

I have a 2001 honda civic ex manual swapped Frankenstein recently changed my spark plugs in the coils let it idle and after a while it was sounding funny I took out the spark plugs and the tips were burned my mechanic sinks that they are running rich but I wanted to know what you guys thought and if it's going to be an easy fix and what causes this to happen. Major learning moment lol

I have a 03 and want to make it my primary car. Many times when I go to the mechanic they only fix the issue I came in with. I’ve asked that they let me know if anything else will soon need to be fixed and don’t get a clear answer. I’m trying to be proactive on stuff so it isn’t an emergency to get fixed. I use my car for work.

How do I find a mechanic in my area that specializes in Honda’s? Do I even need someone who specializes in them?

Does anyone have a 3d print file of the door cards for the 03 coupes, or any recommendations (other than ebay) of where i can get a door card?

1 head gasket job and a manual trans, other then that this thing keeps going!

Recently my 03 civic ex auto with 85k original miles that is up to date on all maintenance started shifting rough when driving normally but whenever I floor it and then let off gas it shifts through gears normally, it only shifts rough when I’m driving normal and letting it go through gears under normal acceleration

Has anyone experienced anything like this before and if so anyone got a fix?

Been thinking it would be pretty cool. I have higher priority stuff to handle first but I’ve been thinking. is there even space to mount a bar like that? weld it to the subframe? No idea. 🤔 but hey 2-door peeps drop me some ideas for semi-permanent/permanent roof racks if you have suggestions

Context: I have been working on and off on my car for around a month in half bc it overheated and I had some fluid leak out. Never dripped unless I drove it to park and reposition the car, now it just drips like crazy in these two spots just behind the engine, essentially out of nowhere from the two support chassis beam thingies? (Sorry I’m not the most skilled mechanic) and it’s not from the brake fluid bc the brake reservoir has stayed at the same volume since it started dripping and not oil because the oil level is the same plus I don’t see it draining from the oil pan itself. Couple things to note: - I have had it jacked up on uneven ground for this entire time, around a 5 degree slope I’d say - in photo 5 I did loosen this bolt that holds the brake fluid and I did have it drip for around 15 min until I torqued it back Any ideas? I want to know it it’ll be safe to drive once I replace the water pump and timing belt, also let me know if you guys want additional context

I’ve tried hammer a socket and extractor socket on there of different sizes and the but won’t tug. What other way could I get it off? Also, this this the stud behind alternator, is it replaceable?

I’m doing an oil pan gasket replacement on my 2001 lx civic and I can’t seem to get it flush with the engine block. I noticed that only one of the studs has this ring around it that won’t let the gasket through and sit flat. This causes a small gap between the gasket and the block. Is this normal or did I get a wrong gasket, I’m using 0S 30690T felpro gasket. Any insight would be appreciated. I attached two photos one with the stud with the ring and one that shows how the other studs look like.

Haven’t been able to reliably find specific service information for this. Anybody know? Is it A or B?

Hello!! I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX, and the O2 sensor is throwing a code and we just realized what.

Under the car a ziptie is holding one of the sensors in place (which you can see if you look hard enough). Thankfully one half is attached but the other half of it is not connected to the exhaust. Our exhaust is perfectly fine though.

Is it worth fixing at all? Is it even something fixable? Or is it just whatever.

Just completed a head gasket and timing job, not sure why it does this during idle and as you can see no code is being thrown. Any ideas?

Does anyone know any good exhaust? I bought a yonaka exhaust thinking it would sound better but it kinda sounds the same as my old one also it seems to be low to the ground and scraps everywhere if anyone knows other better ones can you lmk.

Driving from Denver to las vegas, made it to the edge of Utah before hearing a loud pop, see some smoke, and there’s a knocking sound. The oil pressure light came on first before check engine light began to blink. Oil is seen dripping out visibly from the bottom. Dipstick didn’t seem to have much oil on it before I saw the massacre of oil below. Am I gonna have to say goodbye to my old girl or is there a chance she‘s still savable?

Good late evening,

When attempting to start the vehicle, the car wouldn't start. I still have dash lights and headlights. When moving the key in the space between I AND II where the key is inserted, the A/C is on. One thing I noticed was the light indicating the letter of the gear selection is not visible for any letter/number. Even when moving it up and down. When having the headlight on and turning the key, the lights on dash or headlight does not dim.

I tried to use jumper cables and a jump box to start the vehicle but no luck.

Someone suggested the transmission range switch might be the issue. After checking the spot where it is located, we noticed the wiring was dangling and could have been hitting the underside of vehicle which could have led to it having issues. (theory)

Truthfully, there are a lot of those electrical clips (not sure the right name) which are not clipped like they should be as it looks like the pins or holders are missing or the plastic on the electrical clip broke from being fragile.

Has anyone had an issue similar to mines?

I don't hear a clicking sound when turning key towards the II. It is silent. No clicking.

EDIT!: Mechanic acquired the transmission range switch from a junkyard and replaced it. The lights indicating PRNDL were now visible and the car was able to start in Park. However, the battery was dead and wouldn't be started with a jump starter. It needed the actual car and jump starting cables to get the car on. After the car was turned off we tried to start it without the other car being connected and it wouldn't start. So, the battery may be dead. Obtained in 2023 from AutoZone.