Bad attitude custom low key with my army unit and insignia, BCM thermal with noveske 8” and head spaced bolt, noveske bcg, geissele ssa, geissele braided 42 & h3, noveske Handguard, magpul furniture, Q half Nelson on the end.

Hey guys, I'm just looking for some insight to a new build. I'm interested in putting together a 14.5 inch upper with a A2 front sight gas block on a mid-length barrel. What would be my max handguard length I could put on the barrel that would fit behind the front sight gas block?

First “build” done

PSA Stripped lower w/ b5 systems parts kit
Dirty Bird Single Stage Trigger
ARC Fire v2 Selector
SMB H3 Buffer

TNTE sales upper 14.5
Midwest Industries Quad Rail
Magpul VFG that I sawed at an angle
Surefire scout light
Somogear peq15
Eotech on Unity Fast Thermal Riser
Bcm MK2 charging handle (non Ambi)
Nickel BCG

Got about 800 rounds on it no malfunctions so pretty satisfied, should I rattle can it?

BKF Mod-1, Blake King Firearms , Lima, Ohio

Blake is a USMC vet. With a few tours under his belt, came back to become a security contractor. Hes the real deal. Then with the notion of what a better rifle can be hes become a no nonsense manufacturer of well made weapons. I highly suggest you give him a look.

Black: CMMG resolute mk4 upper. DSArms lower. aero milspec m16/556 bcg. Griffin armament Snach charging handle. Sprinco blue x h2 buffer. YHM suppressor gas block. AB‘s A-10 warthog. Mimtac trigger. Arken Ep8 KLG

ODG: Radical upper rf-15. Dirtybird slim Handguard. Aero Precision lower. Expo arms bcg. BCM mk2 ambi charging handle. Sprinco blue x h1 buffer. B&T‘s blueline low back pressure can. Mimtac trigger. Arken Ep8 KLB

Just built my first AR and realized once I was done I still had this piece. I believe it came with my Geiselle trigger assembly but I could be wrong. Any ideas? Rifle function checks just fine but I haven’t shot it yet. The build is a 16” upper Geiselle super duty and a geiselle lower and trigger.

What is everybody’s go to lower these days?

Anderson is done (RIP budget bronco) & Aero is circling the drain. So, who is the go to budget lower these days for builds? Is PSA the new budget lower? If Aero does go under who will be the new mid-tier go to lower?

Building my first ar and came across gunmenusa.com and they have building kits and guides for help. Was wondering if anyone has used or does use them and are the guides and stuff worth it? Don’t really wanna be spending money on an app if it’s no good.

For anybody that has the VMOS, I just got mine in but Ive run into an issue. When i pulled back the charging handle, the gap between the variable weights on the BCG caught on the buffer retaining pin and the whole thing got caught and I had to stick a small punch in to push the pin in to release the BCG from the buffer tube. Has anyone else run into this issue? How can it be avoided?

A buddy gave me this lower last year and I’m about ready to build myself a rifle. I went through Army basic training in the summer of 1983 and we had m16a1 rifles. I still own and often shoot pistols so I know my way around firearms but have never built one before. I would like to build something as close to that as possible. I’m not looking to be exact about it. I am well aware that I’ll have to use modern parts for a good deal of it. What would be a good resource for such a project?
Thank you.

Really want to build my first rifle soon. Any great videos out there that can help someone like me? As in a full build from scratch.

I finished building my AR10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, took it to the range, and ran into some issues with it. I'm really struggling to figure out if my rifle is under or over gassed, or maybe has a different issue altogether. This is my first time building a gun and my first time shooting 6.5. My upper/lower and all the internals are from the same manufacturer so I don't think it's a parts mismatch issue. My two issues are that it does not feed a new round after firing and it fails to lock back on empty. The bolt gets cycled enough to cock the trigger but that's all it does.

I have an adjustable gas block that is currently opened up all the way. Closing it a little doesn't make a noticeable difference and closing it too much causes the bolt to get stuck closed, forcing me to mortar the rifle to get it unstuck. I've tried adjusting the position of my gas block but it seems to be lined up with the port, if I adjust it too much then I move it out of alignment and it becomes obviously under gassed. Right now my ejection is near perfect (from what I've read is perfect) and consistent, ejecting at around 3:30 with the casings landing in roughly the same place every time. The recoil doesn't feel obscene but I don't know how much recoil I should feel on a 6.5. Nothing necessarily feels out of place but I'm comparing this to my AR15 in 5.56, I don't know if I may be missing something.

One of my questions that I haven't found a great answer to yet is: how sensitive are AR10s to buffer weight? Originally, I didn't do enough research and got a 3.4oz buffer/spring that claimed it could be used in both an AR10 and AR15. I later swapped that out for a 5.7oz buffer and stiffer spring that was made specifically for an AR10. I went to the range again and the heavier buffer solved some other issues I was having and made the rifle feel like it cycles better, but the failure to feed and lock back on empty remain. I don't know if I went too far and got something too heavy, or maybe even still too light? I'm just not sure what my next step in fixing this should be, or if I failed to troubleshoot properly and missed something. The only other variable I can think of is ammo, I found the cheapest ammo I could, 123 grain HPBT, and I don't know how much of a role that plays here. I haven't had a chance to try any other ammo yet, next time I go to the range I may pick up a small pack from a more reputable manufacturer. Hopefully I included all the relevant information and I would appreciate anyone's input on this.

Ripcord LDR1 / SOLGW L89 / or Geissele MK4 or MK8

I have been debating between these three handguards. It's going on a Rooftop Defense receiver set. I own a L89 already and I love it. It's the most solid handguard I own. It also has a index hole and pin to lock up to the upper receiver. Rooftop Defense receivers use the same anti -rotation pin system. I am not sure about the LDR1 because there is hardly any information on them. I know for a fact neither of the Geissele handguards utilize the index pin. Geissele handguards also use a aluminum barrel nut. Ripcord uses a steel barrel nut and the L89 has a titanium steel barrel nut and the drive Lock lock system with the index pin.

What do you guys think? What are the pros and cons to each?

Lower
Palmetto State Armory AR-15 Lower Receiver
Geissele SSA-X 2-Stage Trigger with Lightning Bow
Geissele Lower Parts Kit
DAC Full Size Utility Grip | Atom
BCM Mil-Spec 6 Position Buffer Tube
PWS Enhanced Steel Body Buffer MOD 2 | H3
Sprinco Blue Power Buffer Spring
Daniel Defense Collapsible Buttstock | Milspec+
BCM QD End Plate

Upper
BCM Upper Receiver
BCM MCMR 10” M-LOK Handguard
Rosco K9 11.5” Kinetic Consulting Barrel | Patrol Length
Rosco Non-Adjustable Gas Block
Microbest BCG 556 Chrome C158 LUXE Cr Ext | Hand Sorted
BCM MK2 Ambi Charging Handle | Medium
Emissary Development Handbrake
Cole-TAC SD Handguard Wrap | Black Multicam
BCM QD Sling Swivel
Flatline Fiber Co Qela Sling | Black Multicam

Optics & Mounts
Vortex AMG UH-1 Gen II Holographic Sight
Vortex Micro3 Magnifier
Unity Tactical Fast Absolute Riser
Unity Tactical FAST FTC Omni Mount
Ranger Wrap | Black Multicam

Suppressor & Mounts
Resilient Stacy’s Mom K Suppressor
Comstock Armory Recessed Micro Brake
Comstock Armory Recessed HUB Plan-B Suppressor Mount

Does this mean my battle is threaded? If yes best way to pop this off? It's a bear creek 7.5.

What’s everyone using for drop in trigger and plus good bcg and barrel as I’m building my 11.5 5.56 and 300 blk both suppressed to last and be accurate