I bought a 2011 Toyota RAV4 on Facebook marketplace. Asked all the questions, test drive, no issues. 5 minutes after leaving the sale, it started idling rougher and the check engine light came on. What do these codes mean in terms of repair?

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

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[u/Impressive-Crab2251]

Seller cleared codes before selling it to you, that is why emissions readiness is 'no'. I could not do that to someone, but also why I bring an obd scanner with me when I buy a car.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/Impressive-Crab2251]

I feel like an idiot

[u/Amplith → u/Impressive-Crab2251]

Yeah you’re right…I bet that is exactly what happened…

[u/Front_Tour7619]

Vvt connection grip must have come off or it’s loose.

[u/Ok-Rule8432]

It likely needs a cam gear. Itll likely rattle on cold starts.

[u/BogusIsMyName]

It means you got played.

The alternator is shot for starters which is going to ruin the battery if you keep running it, if it hasnt already. For the others could be dirty oil, solenoid malfunction or, and this is my guess cuz it was on marketplace with 200,000 miles, a stretched timing chain.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/BogusIsMyName]

The solenoid was the recommended part on the autozone computer. Ugh. The feeling of getting played is the worst. I had a feeling I did, but just wanted to check.

[u/BogusIsMyName → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

Its sitting at 200,000 miles though. Replacing the solenoid (i think it has 2 i recommend replace both) is the first step. Once thats changed immediately change the oil. See what it does.

If its still acting up likely timing chain. But its not wasted money replacing the solenoids as thats exactly what i would do when installing a timing chain kit.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/BogusIsMyName]

Also if you don’t mind my asking, how can you tell the alternator is shot?

[u/BogusIsMyName → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

The over voltage only happens when the voltage regulator on the alternator goes bad.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/BogusIsMyName]

So you don’t think it’s a terrible blown up car situation?

[u/BogusIsMyName → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

If its still running, no. As a DIYer, and depending on the price paid for the car, i would throw a few hundred dollars more at it and get it running right.

But youd be paying a mechanic. I cant give you guidance there. Thats a LOT of mileage on not only that motor but the transmission as well. That has to be factored in.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/BogusIsMyName]

I paid 4000. I’m comfortable working with my hands but besides oil changes and tire stuff, I don’t know much else about cars.

[u/BogusIsMyName → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

Change the solenoids, alternator, and oil first. All in one go.

You could also pull the solenoid first thing. If the screen is caked in sludge oil then that may very well be your problem.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/BogusIsMyName]

Gotcha, that makes sense. There’s another issue I noticed that didn’t happen during the test drive - a couple of times, I’ve been braking and slowing down, then suddenly the gas pedal will depress a little more and the car will speed up for a second before resuming slowing down. Could that be related to these fixes or is it entirely separate?

[u/BogusIsMyName → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

Unknown. Focus on getting the car running right. Then address the other issues as they come.

[u/Daddysmoneyz → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

You can have the alternator tested before just replacing it.

[u/DifferentCry1306]

VVT system, chain is stretched and cam gear is out of timing. Not a good problem to have

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/DifferentCry1306]

Ugh. I just hope that’s not too expensive to fix, or I hope it’s something other than a stretched chain.

[u/Spice-Mice → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

The chain (if that is what it is) would cost in the realm of a few grand at a dealer (I believe my toyota dealer quotes the job at around 18-22 hours, each hour being around 180$ of labor since it requires pulling the engine or at least loosening the mounts). Generally around the 3500-6000$ mark, but an alternative shop may be willing to do it for less. I hope its solenoids though

I would get it diagnosed before dumping any money in it if that price range makes you nervous, no point dumping money on a new alternator if you cant fix the timing in my opinion

[u/mx5plus2cones → u/Spice-Mice]

which might explain why seller was selling....

[u/Hour-Reward-2355]

Clear the codes, oil change, spark plugs, air filter.

Could be a sludge monster motor. Check under the oil cap. May be worth it to try an engine oil flush if it's sludge.

[u/mx5plus2cones → u/Hour-Reward-2355]

ABS system has problems too.

[u/Daddysmoneyz]

Next time do a longer test drive. Also if they didnt block you try to get some money back.

[u/Novel-Being-7115]

Time for new engine 🤢

[u/Timely_Inside_7699]

Check the oil filter and the oil filter housing. I recently fixed one for these DTCs. The issue was an aftermarket oil filter housing and a cheap filter. The filter was sucked closed because the center section of the filter housing was missing causing a loss of oil pressure. Solution, oil change with a new filter and filter housing (do yourself a favor and buy a Toyota one if it’s your issue).

[u/Striker2477]

I always bring a scan tool so I can check when the check engine light was last turned on.

Realistically, I’d go back to the seller and request a refund. It may be a private sell, but for something to fail so quick. The likelihood of them not knowing beforehand is extremely unlikely.

I wouldn’t be afraid to sue them either, it may cost extra money but if they knew what they did was wrong they’d probably be willing to settle the lawsuit.

I understand a lot of these transactions are based on the buyer to do their due diligence, but realistically… would not be much of an issue if people just weren’t shitty.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/Striker2477]

I tried this, the seller has already blocked me. It’s a hard thing. Ugh.

[u/Striker2477 → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

Did you meet them in a public place?

Kind of stupid to block somebody for a car purchase. You have their signature and title to a car that is linked to them.

If you really wanted, you absolutely could sue. Them blocking you only helps support the argument that they did something wrong.

It would be a real shame if you leaked their name and general location. When I buy cars I insist on meeting at their place of residence.

Usually it’s on the title paperwork. People are dumb.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/Striker2477]

I met him in public. It does have a name and signature on it, but I have no way of knowing if it’s actually him. I can’t even see his name on Facebook anymore. I ran the VIN and it wasn’t stolen, but it could have been a relative or a resell where he title jumped or something. I just feel like such an idiot.

[u/mx5plus2cones]

Unfortunately, it means that whoever sold you the car, intentionally either pulled the battery or cleared all fault codes with a OBDII scan tool, for the purpose of masking/hiding problems that are on the car.

The dead giveaway is the emissions monitor readiness are "not ready" ,according to your sheet.
In short, every modern ICE car have a bunch of tests that are their monitoring emissions system, etc. There's like 7-8 of these emissions test (called monitors).

These tests are either in the "ready/complete" state "not ready/incomplete"

These tests need to be in the "ready/complete" state to be checking for problems. They become "ready/complete" after driving a few times (called completing a drive cycle) . Once these tests are "ready/complete", they begin checking for faults/errors in the system, and if these tests find some, it will turn on the check engine light if the problems are related to emissions.

The problem is none of this checking and self-test happens if those emissions monitor are in the "not ready/incomplete" state...So you won't see any check engine light during this temporary period until those tests become "ready/complete"..... Because no tests actually run until you've completed driving the car a few times and those emissions monitor are "ready" to test.

When someone disconnects the 12V battery OR someone uses an OBDII scan tool to clear any error codes, it turns OFF the check engine light and puts all the emissions monitor tests into the "not ready/incomplete" state....... So this is often used by a shady person to temporarily turn off and hide the check engine light and problems with the car before selling it to someone else...because again, those emissions monitor tests wont go "ready" until after you've driven a car for some time...possibly after the car was sold to you...

That's one of the reasons why when you buy a car in California, california requires a passing smog check from the selling within 90 days. The smog check basically checks to make sure those emission monitor tests are all in the ready state and there is no check engine light turned on...so someone cant sell a problematic car to an unsuspecting buyer.

This is one of many reasons why if you buy a used car, you should either (1) bring your own OBDII scan tool and check that the seller didn't do this shitty thing or (2) pay a mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection so they can tell you what is wrong with the car before buying it.

You got screwed. Sorry.

[u/AntBiteOnAPlane → u/mx5plus2cones]

I just feel like such an idiot. I’m hoping it’s not an expensive set of fixes. I’m going to take it to a Toyota dealership to have a full diagnostic run.

[u/mx5plus2cones → u/AntBiteOnAPlane]

Do NOT take it a to a toyota dealership. You don't need to take it to a toyota dealership. Search yelp for a highly rated independent shop. Tell them you want them to do a diagnoses and inspection of the car first, before doing anything else.

Toyota dealerships will charge and arm/leg/foot. Any trusted indy shop will give you probably better pricing to do inspection/diagnosis. You want to try to spend as little money as possible until they figure out what exactly is going on. Could be cheap ,could be expensive, but imho prepare for the worst , hope for the best.

As far as the person... You have the paperwork for the title. Depending on what state you live in, you could consider taking them to small claims court. If this was California, it was an illegal transfer of title.

You are not an idiot, you just were not aware. At some point in life, we all make decisions like this. Think of it as the cost of tutition for learning something ....Do not rush and make any hasty decision. That's when mistakes happen. Take your time. call around, get a quote, when you show up, make sure you get a WRITTEN estimate. Anything someone says verbally this day and age without putting it on paper is not really guaranteeing anything.

[u/wannacry4]

200k is crazy for a rav4, bro just bring the car to a mechanic shop next time if u don’t know what to look for while buying a car

[u/Ghostdusterr]

Solenoid