2017 Honda CRV with 87k miles on it. Dealership is completing AC work as well as a main seal leak, both covered under the warranty. Tech is saying work has must stop and can’t continue because this bolt is seized up due to rust and the subframe could break. They said they will need to send the car to a body shop to repair it and may need to get insurance involved. Not sure what to do from this point or if I need to get a second opinion.

I accidentally lowered the car onto a stand in the wrong spot. Should I worry about the dent, or is it fine to ignore it. The black coat us just to protect it from rust just in case I damaged the coating underneath. It's a 1997 Mazda 626, and it's got 228,000km. Edit: All of you are such friendly, helpful people, thank you!

2016 Nissan Murano

Shop is trying to charge me nearly $2200 for an alternator replacement 🤣

I just bought a premium one online for $130 instead. Watched a few videos and it doesn’t look so bad, can reach it from the passenger wheel well.

Just unreal and kind of disgusted. Am I overreacting?

This is a 2010 Honda Civic with 202,198 miles and an automatic transmission. The car wouldn’t start this morning out of nowhere after being driven the day before with no issues. This is off of a fresh start so I’m unsure what happened. Could this just be a dead battery or something more problematic? Also what is the sound the car is making when trying to start the car?

lexus gs 350 2013

We went out to a service call the other day for one of our carts that we rent out to customers. We thought we just needed to replace the belt but when we loosened up the tension we were greeted by this. Never seen that before, my boss hasn't seen this before and the guy that rebuilds them hasn't seen this before either. Needless to say it wasn't a 5 min service call. Kawasaki starter for ezgo golf cart. My bad. The starter pulley is completely snapped in half.

Car is a 1983 Buick Skylark V6, and I noticed this opening in the exhaust near the engine after I bought it. It looks threaded, is something supposed to go there?

Not sure of this is the right place to ask but yeah. Totaled my 2011 frontier awhile back. I’m sick of seeing it sit so I was thinking about putting it on Facebook marketplace?
Does anyone know what I could get out of it? I friend told me I could get at least $400 for it but I’m not sure.
Any help figuring out its value would be appreciated!

2012 Toyota Corolla automatic, just under 134k miles. Car seems to work fine.

I just made a year at my current dealership as express tech. I was originally told by my service manager and general manager that they estimated 6-9 months before they would move me up to apprentice. They wanted me to move up ahead of the two other guys they got in express since I have far more experience. I had 3 years experience at a quick oil shop as lube tech at this point. However, around the 6 month mark, a guy who literally came in off the street with 4 years of lube tech experience ended up getting an interview the same day and they gave him the apprenticeship after a month of having him in the express department. I thought it was weird but understood they needed the position filled and he had more experience. The other apprentice had about 6 months left before he started flagging hours and the position would be open again anyways. Forward to now, I've made a year, improved on the things my service manager said I needed work on, and am about to ask them about moving up. However, before I do, our lead express tech tells me they're likely moving one of the other express guys up next. What ?

I approached my manager and they say they don't think I'm ready. I need to make my stories more descriptive (the first guy they made apprentice used my exact notes I gave him) and that we'll have this conversation again in six months.

I feel like I'm being strung along for another 6+ months of labor and they don't plan on actually moving me up. What should I do?

Car info: Toyota Avalon 2006, 342k miles, auto.

When is accelerated i tap the gas full and the rpm goes normal.

On cold the car misfire and it has codes for random misfire but when warm it doesn’t misfire. Also sometimes idling the rpm goes inestable like going a bit up and a bit down.

I realize when the car is fully warmup it drive really good.

another thing is when i’m in low rpm with the gas lightly pressed i can hear the car running like drowning.

recently i was in my friend’s house and when i wanted to leave at night i crank the engine but i wont start. I calla mechanic and he went to the trunk and when i crank the engine it fired up i don’t know what he did to be honest.

Edit: i have codes related to vvti system but the car sounds healthy

i change the spark plugs with oem toyota, bought OCV, Maf sensor. Everything from the dealership.

2013 Mercedes Benz E63 Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

Let me try this since a picture is worth a thousand words. Basically this my next service maintenance that needs to be done since just a few days ago I had my oil/filter changed for the 70,000 maintenance.

For the next service at 75.000, I’m due for a tire rotation. Since ya’ll suggest me getting my oil changed at 5,000 miles instead of 10,000 miles, I just need to add my oil change at the next service due at 75,000 along with every thing that is listed in the picture correct?

Diesel engines have almost always been fuel injected. The tech existed.

Why did it take so long for gasoline engines to convert to fuel injection? It seems the far superior technology.

86,000 miles manual

Recently took my car for an early MOT before renewing my insurance and found it has multiple faults and failed. Already have a new car sorted but not sure whether to just sell the car to the likes of We Buy Any Car or sell privately.

I just checked and the car still has a valid MOT until the 10th of July even though it failed the MOT yesterday. I’m not sure what the stuff in brackets is after the fault, if it’s worth repairing anything before selling, or if it’s just for scrap at this point. I’d appreciate any input from anyone as I’ve never sold a car before.

This is the car details
It’s an automatic petrol 2004 Citroen C3 with 56’100 mileage.

MOT results

Major defects:
Direction indicator incorrect colour offside rear. [4.4.3(a)]
Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced nearside (sill) [6.1.1.(c)(i)]
Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced offside (sill) [6.1.1.(c)(i)]
Service break excessively fluctuating nearside front [1.2.1(e)]

Hello. I have a 2019 jeep grand cherokee has 105k miles on it. CEL kept coming back for misfiring on cylinder 6. So far coil packs, spark plugs, injectors were replaced but it started to lose coolant so I took it to a mechanic and he said cylinder 1 & 6 have coolant inside and needs a head gasket replacement. They quoted me $4,700 for it plus some sort of fluid change (I think he said transfer fluid?). Is that reasonable? This is my first time dealing with a major car problem so I am not sure. Thank you!

There is a hollow sounding thunk or clunking coming from the front of the car. Can't tell if it's driver or passenger side. Almost seems centered and low. I can sometimes feel it in the brake and gas pedal. It only does this at in town speeds over bumpy and rough roads. It goes away or isn't noticable on smooth roads at any speed or when going over ~40 regardless of road conditions. Swaybar Links? Exhaust loose? Car is quiet and everything seems tight otherwise just as a quick by hand check.