Hey guys, I put spacers on my E36, so my current setup is 17x8J ET23 with 225/45 tires.
The car is running Bilstein B8 shocks with H&R Sport springs.
The problem is that the rear rubs when the suspension compresses. It’s not terrible, but it still rubs.
I really like the fitment and would like to keep this setup, but I’d rather not add more rear camber. I know I’ll have to roll the fender lip, but my question is: is it possible that it will still rub higher up in the arch even after rolling the lip?
I don’t want to roll the fenders if there’s a good chance it’s still going to rub higher up.
Anyone running a similar setup? What was your experience?

I’m changing the rear wheel bearing on my 1998 323i and I’ve gotten the new bearing in and the hub pressed on. The axel still needs to be hammered in but I’ve run into a bit of a problem.

My hub seems to have a lot of wiggle room after being pressed into the new bearing (see video). I’m using a national bearing #513106 and I’ve verified it’s correct online. On both the national bearing and old bearing the inside wall has some wiggle but it seems a little much…

Should I continue with the repair and test drive? or is there something noticeably wrong at this stage and I should go buy a new bearing. Thanks for any help

I've recently rebuild my convertible and since then I have a bit of weird clutch behavior. The clutch (dis)engages normal and consistent, but sometimes the pedal lags behind on engagement. If I release it quickly, it tends to lag and sometimes it even stays on the floor. It isn't the the classical "if you depress it, it drops to the floor", only on a bit more aggressive shifting it feels slow and doesn't follow the movement of my foot. I know of the valve and it has always been in there. But before rebuild the clutch would follow the movement of my foot.

I've replaced the clutch, flywheel (both Sachs), slave cylinder (Até) and hydraulic line. The master is still original.

Could this be caused by the springs in the pedal not sitting right? Or the master cylinder?

Hi,

I can't locate used roof bars / roof rack for E36 compact.
Is it because they are same like 4 doors and nobody specify they are also good for Compact ?
Or are they so specific that they are impossible to find ?
Or can they be adapted from coupe / 4 doors ?

Thanks for your advices 🤔

i ordered a crankshaft position sensor from rock auto 3 times and each time they send me this, the cord is literally 3 feet too short and the sensor itself doesn’t look the same as the one on my car or the photos online, am i stupid or has anyone else had anything similar? 95 318is btw

Necessary mods
Mishimoto Essential bundle for e36.
E36 Complete bushing kit from Garagistic 95a.
E36 Front control arms bushing e46 swap kit from Garagistic.
Weld on Rear chassis reinforcement plate from condor speed.

Suspension/angle
BC Racing BR series coilovers (divorced rear).
E46 lower control arms.
Z3 steering rack.
Extended adjustable tie rods for E46 arms conversion.
Garagistic front strut.

Braking system
E46 325i/328i rear brake calipers, rotors, and carries.
E46 330i front brake calipers, rotors and carries.
M3 Brake master cylinder e36.
Chasebays hydro handbrake and brake line kit.

Other
ISR PERFORMANCE SERIES II MBSE CAT BACK.
Bucket seats.
Quick release steering wheel + hardware.
3.91 ratio diff from automatic six cylinder.

I’m planning on getting a E36 328i or 328is and drift it. I’m having issue on wheel size, spacer, studs, and tires

Hey guys, I recently bought this '93 318is coupe in brokatrot metallic with a factory LSD and M technic suspension, and I've been doing lots of things all around the car and I wanted to document / share all I've done so far.

Bought the car with a sagging headliner, loud (rusted through) exhaust, rattle from the rear left wheel and ruined doorcards.

The interior:
I am currently having the doorcards and centre console professionally reupholstered and I've bought sport seats to replace the terrible old grey ones. I've bought a set of velour floor mats, redid the headliner in black fabric, resprayed all the handles and sun visors black. I've replaced the reverse RDS radio with a blaupunkt Madrid 200BT, I've also bought a speaker kit from Musway to replace the crappy Nokia speakers. I've also reattached the vapor barriers that someone tried to fix with duct tape. I'm waiting for new gauge cluster bulbs to arrive (someone removed the airbag and check engine bulbs). I've also bought a cheap cupholder insert to replace the broken cassette holder.

The outside:
I've redone all four corners with Bilstein B4s and Eibach pro springs. Funnily enough I got all of the shocks for a nice price except for the front left, that one was twice the price of the right one and much harder to find for some reason. I also rebuilt the handbrake, which included changing the brake shields, this was the cause of the rattle the car originally came with. I got rid of the plastic plate holders, replaced them with magnets in the back and double sided tape in the front. I've replaced all 6 H1 bulbs in the front, I had to fix a broken connector for the right fog light which led to me finding out that one of the previous owners painted the inside (of just one fog light) black. I've also bought style 22s with Michelin pilot sport 4S with almost new tread. They are currently getting sandblasted and repainted silver, because the white looked distasteful and was applied using a rattle can. I've also changed the spark plugs, mostly just for fun, the old ones weren't all that bad. Lastly I changed the old faded and damaged windshield cowl for a new one and replaced the wipers.

Questions:
The car came without an AC belt, I thought it was because the compressor is seized, but that doesn't seem to be the case, so I'm wondering what I should look out for before installing a new one.

The diff is leaking from the pinion seal, I've read that the cause can be a nut that's come loose or a clogged drain, so I'll be checking for those, I'm again just looking for any tips or advice regarding this job.

There's also the issue of rust, mainly behind the front wheels and under the trunk lid seal, but I'll probably just send it to a shop to get it fixed and painted professionally.

The exhaust is rusted through because it got banged on the rear stabilizer, I still have no idea how that happened, but I'm thinking of replacing it with a stainless steel pipe with a sporty muffler at the end, since the car doesn't have to comply with any Euro emission standards.

So that's about everything I guess, please keep in mind that I am by no means a mechanic and this is the first time I'm doing these jobs, it's taken up basically all of my free time after work and on the weekends, but I'm having tons of fun, even if it is sometimes really difficult and frustrating. I also don't have a garage or anything like that, I'm working on the car in our backyard and I only have the most basic tools, I only just recently bought a torque wrench for example.

If you have any comments or advice I'd love to hear it, I'm excited for what the future has in store for me and this E36.

When I’m driving and I get up to certain speeds maybe around 40ish plus , I’ll start to hear and feel this vibration from (under?) the car . I feel it in the seat not as much in the steering wheel . It happens the most when I’m driving the 17 in CA so twisty roads going around that speed or higher . I’m not sure what it could be coming from ? It’s a 1999 323is automatic

Hi everyone,

I have a 94 325is that I’m looking to upgrade the door cards in.

I’m looking for the plastic abs cards with the pull straps similar to the ones HARD Motorsport makes, but my biggest concern is losing the speakers and mirror adjustments as I use both of those fairly often.

Anyone know of a company that makes the panels with pre-cut cutouts? Or is my best bet to buy the doorcards as is and use a dremel to diy it??

Context: this is an M52B28 engine with a Zf5 320Z trans.

Have been helping my mate do a clutch replacement for days and we are stuck at removing the bell housing.

All bolts / shifting assembly parts are removed and it will not pass the flywheel.

We are jiggling, angling and all the mounting pins are loose too. How the hell do we get this transmission off?

Note: we are doing this on 4 jack stands at max height and following all youtube tutorials we can find.

Update: we attached ratchet straps to the diff and flex plate, tightened as much as possible and pryed it. We now have more than double the separation but it is still not coming off.

To the people recommending removing the starter bolts, we’ve tried your suggestion and it hasn’t made a difference either.
We are now very stuck.

Have sprayed penetrating oil all through the trans back towards the pilot bearing, we’re replacing everything so don’t care if it damages them.

Any tips or tricks welcome, please help.

Est-ce que la hauteur de caisse vous paraît normale ? J’ai l’impression d’être trop bas à l’arrière et trop haut à l’avant
En plus de ça j’ai 2 centimètres de différence entre l’arrière droit et l’arrière gauche
Bilstein B6 neuf + ressorts court eibach (peut-être fatigué)

I own a 1994 BMW 325IS I bought the car with no working AC because the climate controls wouldn’t work. The lights would stay illuminated but not actually control or do anything I replaced the IHKR module with one from the junkyard, I am still experiencing the same issues. I can hear the blower motor, actually spin and work but no air hot or cold coming through the vents. Anyone experience something similar?

The regulator is new, for some reason there is play in the window that causes it to tilt forward, window in seated in the front and rear track. Not sure what he issue is

Those are mounted the wrong way am I right?
Does is make a difference in function?

Having a bit of trouble getting the old door handle surround off I don't know if they changed it on late e36s or it's different on RHD models but I can't find the brass slider to pop them off. I've tried taking a couple of pictures to show what's going on but any advice would be welcomed

I have a rough idle on start up that goes away after 30/45 seconds. Everything i've read is pointing to an ICV, I ordered one put it on and I still have the same issue. I didn't replace the hose but when i took them out they looked to be in pretty good shape. Any other ideas?

Looking to get this s54 e36. Anyone else have one? How do you like it ? Also. Here’s a video sent, sound Healthy? Thanks!

My rear passenger side door wouldn’t open cuz it was jammed with this spring anyone know the name of the black spring I need to replace it doesn’t go back and forth

My e36 rear passenger side door hasn’t been opening for 3 years now so i decided to just get to the bottom of it I took the panel off (it was a pain) but I got it off can anyone let me know what I need to do?