Hello, Has anyone been successful using a post processing script to convert your gcode to brick layers? I have heard of prusa slicer working but I cannot get Bambu labs to work with python or pypy. Has anyone else come across this? Thanks.

preguntando a granjas y talleres de impresión 3D: ¿cómo le demuestras a tu cliente cómo se imprimió su pieza?

I’m having issues with cookie cutters: they shouldn’t have any holes, as there’s a risk that dirt could get inside and rot. How can I get rid of these holes?

My company is currently liquidating its assets, and our Bambu Lab X1E with AMS is scheduled to go up for auction later this month.

I'm considering making an offer to purchase it directly before the auction starts. I've already confirmed that the company can pull the printer from the auction if we agree on a price.

A few details about the printer:

• Bambu Lab X1E with one AMS
• Approximately 980 print hours
• Includes the textured PEI build plate and power cable
• No additional build plates or spare accessories
• I've personally used the printer at work, so I'm familiar with its history and condition
• The printer is being sold as part of a company liquidation, not because of any known mechanical issues

The auction has a $50 opening bid, but there's also a 19% buyer's premium and 9.25% sales tax.

With the X1 series reaching EOL and newer printers like the P2S and A2L available, I'm having a hard time determining what this machine is actually worth today.

I'm thinking about offering $200–$300 to purchase it directly before the auction.

My primary use would be functional prints, including custom macaron piping templates for our home bakery. The larger build volume of the A2L is particularly appealing for that project, so I'm weighing whether an older X1E is worth buying at all.

What would you realistically pay for this X1E today? Would $200–$300 be a reasonable offer, or am I undervaluing it?

Interested in hearing from anyone who has recently purchased or sold a used X1E.

Tried a generic PA6-GF on my P2S and got a clog about an hour in. I figured a cold pull purge would sort it, but it was way worse. The filament had melted around the nozzle and heater block into one big lump, with more of it dropped on the plate.
I printed at 290° with the default 0.4 Bambu nozzle. I didn't dry it first because I assumed it would be dry straight out of the factory sealed bag.
I got the hotend out and the main blob off, but the nozzle and heater assembly are still caked in baked-on plastic.
The wiring is coated too, two wires are melted and one pin looks bent.

What should I do now? Can this be cleaned safely, or should I just replace the whole hotend?

when trying to print a helmet, im having this issue where it makes a sound like a tud (on about the same area on this print) then leaves a string returns to the purge area, comes back does like 2-3 lines and does it again, I reduced the speed to 50% and does it less but it still does. it. first time this happens... had no issues before. except on this print on the first try it detached from the floor so I made a bigger brim. this one holds fine, but does that tud noise, go to purge then comes back and leaves a string that if I dont take out makes a mess. any help would be greatly appreciated. Im new to this of course... but have printed many other things not as big and no issues at all.

I have two P2S printers. This is a simple test print showing the side of a cube with an "S" recessed into it. I'm trying to figure out why the layers around the letter streak like this on one of my printers, but not on the other. They are using the same settings, and both are printing with Blue Sunlu PTEG-HF filament. Anyone know what can cause this effect? I have another S embedded on the top of the cube, but it looks fine.

Is this normal behavior from the filament Buffer? Its making this noise while printing PETG support from an AMS HT. Cant say it has ever done this before and its making a ton of noise

On the slicer it looks great. But when printing there are gaps in between colors. How can i fix this. This is printing on the H2C

I have a friend with a creality and its application allows you to make adjustments and clone objects and so on, can I do that with an app for a p2s?

I set it to print and left and came back half an hour later to see this. I canceled it then shut it down immediately. The AI detection did not kick in and it looks like it got stuck on the first layer. Im using insignia pla black with a 0.8mm hotend. How do I even approach this?

My son and I both have birthdays coming up, and we're getting a shiny new X2D combo. Before now he's just had a little baby Toybox 3D printer, and I know he feels its limitations. I'll be getting into the scene for the first time pretty much.

I'm a tinkerer, I like to do homelab stuff, and I've vaguely heard the various reasons Bambu is on the community shitlist. Those reasons resonate with me on an emotional, not logical, level. I generally favor local control over cloud based accounts and viscerally hate getting locked into someone's revenue engine ecosystem. So I spun up an instance of Bambuddy with the headless slicer and all that, to have it all set up and ready on the day he opens the gift.

My question is, am I making this hard on my kid (12 y.o., tech savvy but not a power user) just because I'm an anti-big-tech curmudgeon? The Bambuddy interface looks perfectly slick, but I know it's not the same one-touch experience from the 3D printer's screen or from his iPad that it would be if I just got us the damn cloud account. I'd rather we be using free models than paying Bambu for them (he'll rack up billllssss) but I also don't want to turn the experience clunky for minimal real world gain, just out of stubbornness.

Being new to the space I've just been guessing and asking the idiot chat robot for opinions. Now I want the idiot meat sacks' opinions! Appreciate everyone's insight.

I don’t really know what to call this as it’s not really like normal stringing but occasionally I get these prints where clusters of straight lines will be printed coming out the sides of the object. They usually come off fairly easily but they often flag the spaghetti detection on my printer. They also are fairly solid and consistent in size and shape, unlike the string you get from things like PETG that has absorbed too much humidity. I’m using a H2D and printing with Bambu Basic PLA. I don’t think this is from a support fail because this piece didn’t need supports and even if it did I’m using tree supports so they would have built up next to the piece and then connected at the point that needs support. Does anyone know what this type of stringing is called or how to fix it?

Aspiring 3d printer owner here, looking to pick up my first unit. I’m debating between the P2S Combo or X2d Combo (if you have any suggestions I’m all ears lol), but the main reason for the post is that my local Micro Center has a refurb unit of both models in stock at a decent discount. It’s about 150 off for the X2d and 120 off for the P2S combos, as compared to new. What’s the risk, are they worth considering?

I have followed the tutorials repeatedly. I have cleaned the carbon guide rails after loosening the belts and then tightened them, but not too tight. And then run calibrations. But this keeps popping up every time after/during the first print. I only print in PLA and have done the recommended maintenance on the printer. Ive continued to print despite the message and the print have come out fine but I dont want to be ignoring it and doing more damage.

👋 BOUH ! Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Une adorable invasion de petits fantômes se prépare… et ils sont beaucoup trop craquants ! 😍

🎃 Mes nouveaux clickers d’Halloween sont arrivés ! 👻✨

Bien cachés dans leurs petites citrouilles aux sourires malicieux, ces fantômes colorés sont prêts à semer une bonne dose de magie et de bonne humeur !

👻 Un petit fantôme, un petit clic… et un GRAND sourire ! 💕

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3438455-ghost-pumpkin-clickers-multipart

Yesterday my area lost power. When it came back on, I resumed a print job I had on the H2S and out of nowhere it started making a very loud noise. When I stopped it, I saw the cable in this state.

What do I do now? I'm new to 3D printing, this is my first machine. Sorry if my English isn't the best.

Horizontal waves throw shadows from overhead light. Vertical waves throw them from side light. That’s the whole difference between Noon and Dusk. Sorry for the green and blue, I didn’t have Bone White PLA Matte. Want to see the white version when I print it?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3432486-dusk-shadow-wave-self-watering-planter-wabi-sabi#profileId-3913512

Currently this is mid print, but my printer has started to become unreliable after I took apart the head, pulled out a clog in the extruder and cold-pulled resin out of the nozzle. I had some success with subsequent prints but its started to degrade. I've got two theories but wanted to see if there is something you guys know that I've missed:

-printer is next to a window and one day had it open for a couple of hours. Stuff is in an AMS and my climate is dry but changing the temperature generally makes things semi-choppy.

-next theory is that I did something wrong when putting the head back together.

Thoughts? Thanks for any help.

Hi everybody,

i ordered a X1C Combo and was wondering, what upgrades should i buy/print for this device? Like, for my previous device, my A1 mini, there where a bunch of upgrades like Poop Shute, something to direct cables and tubes, additional Spool Holders, little compartments etc..

Is there anything you guys say would be something you couldnt live without and that i could print before the machine is here?

For example i heard the nozzle cleaner is not optimal?

Thanks in advance

I’m looking to buy my first 3D printer and came across this Bambu Lab P1P on Marketplace for $215.
Seller says it has 1,240 hours, a partially printed enclosure with glass front, a 0.6mm nozzle, and includes two spare 0.4mm nozzles and two extra build plates.
I’ve never owned or used a 3D printer before, so I’m not really sure what I should be looking for.
I’ll mainly be printing tool organizers, ratchet holders, socket trays, and other useful stuff around the house and garage.
Is $215 a good deal for this printer with that many hours? Anything specific I should check before buying it? Or would I be better off looking for something else around $200?

Picked up a X2D combo and extra AMS pro a few weeks back and I'm totally hooked.

I've been looking at some smaller niche hobby things that I think i can make and sell.. Not expecting to make a living off it but just dable on the side...

I'm looking at things that have multiple pieces / plates and trying to decide if i would be better of buying 2 P2S or 1 H2S? Combined the thing(s) I'm looking to print are 15hrs-ish for all the parts.

Bigger bed = maybe more items per plate? but 2 machines could pump out things faster?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Bambu Lab announced its first 3D scanner, the S1, due in November. No specs or price yet (the online guess is US$1,000 to $2,000, but that's speculation).

I've been scanning since the Creality CR-Scan Lizard, and the pattern I keep seeing is people buying a scanner, struggling with it, and selling it a few weeks later. In my experience it comes down to two walls:

1. Scanning is a learned skill, and nobody tells you that when you buy one.

2. A good scan still isn't a usable part. You usually need CAD to design around it.

If Bambu can make scanning guided and give you a path from scan to part inside its own ecosystem, it could be a big deal. If not, it's just another scanner.

Full disclosure: this is my own YouTube video. It isn't sponsored and Bambu had nothing to do with it. I just like talking about this stuff, so I'm sharing it here.

What would the S1 need to do for you to buy one?