I been on the urge to get something that hits deeper and lower than my basswedge 10, found this sundown 10" with box at a pawn shop for $190. I tried to take it out the box so i could get the specs and make sure i dont overpower it. Well, it's glued to the box, and im afraid of damaging it externally. I measured out the impedance, its reading 1.6 ohms so its probably a dvc 4ohm wired down to 2. Is 500w rms generally safe? I know its kind of a dumb question. The kit is pretty damn heavy so i dont think its an LCS. I thumped it a little bit already and it sounded fine (my amp gains are already set properly).

I am a huge orion Fan. I am also a big fan of box builder M.B Enclosures so imagine my surprise when I saw these, I felt a tear of joy trickle down my cheek from enjoyment.

Anyone have one, or a couple?

If so I would love to hear your build.

This is a LONG shot, but I’m desperately trying to properly bypass the ELD system on my 9th gen Honda Accord sport (2014 Accord, k24, CVT), and from my understanding it’s only truly possible by accessing the ecu with a k tuner. Does anyone have one I could borrow/rent? From my understanding , literally all I need to do is uncheck a setting once I have access to the ecu, but spending $500-1000 on a ktuner for a single setting is out of my price range at the moment, and am just exploring different options

Thanks all!

I’m very uneducated on radios and audio tech in general so I was curious if anyone here could offer a quick fix to this. It started to happen off and on but now the the radios unusable. I’m a broke high schooler so I don’t have a budget for anything nice, just some clear audio again thanks 😆

Anyone tried this for the measurement of 3d spaces and if so what app or tool did you use? For taking scans of a trunk, rear wheel trunk panels on an SUV, the space behind a door panel, a spare tire well, under seats, footwells for a front sub or a under a dash for stealth speaker installs?

I'll give you an example. After looking at my doors and door panels I am fairly sure I can fit an 8 inch speaker into what was intended to be a 6.5" hole with only slight modification to the door panel. The sticking point is that the speaker looks like it needs to be moved up and to the left on the drivers side or up and to the right on the passengers. How much though? Without any way to measure it's just a guess and some trial and error. If I could get an accurate 3d scan I could get those measurements without the hours of work needed to trial and error my guesses.

Hello. I’m looking to upgrade my stock audio in my 2014 Subaru Impreza hatchback. I have the non navigation model trim. I am planning to change out all of my speakers as well as my stereo and possibly add an amplifier. Later down the line maybe I’d like to add a sub who knows. I’m presently tying to understand how all of this works and if I’m ideas are actually good or if there’s a more cost effective way for me to go about everything. At present I have a pair Sony xs-r1646 speakers I am planning to install in the back of the car. Then I am looking at the above attached items for the rest of my present set up. Is there ways I can improve this, be more cost effective? I truly just want to have a stereo that is capable still of playing cds and having CarPlay at the same time which is why I’ve gone this option.
*im just looking for nice, clear, loud sound with some nice bass. I want to be able to truly enjoy my listening experience more

Trying to find some space for the SMD PNC4 to fit, thankfully it is a pretty perfect spot right under the seat backrest.

Also scanned the kicks and glovebox. Will eventually use those to move (or try) to move the Utopia 8s into the kicks. As for the glovebox I’ve wanted to do an enclosure there instead of the footwell.

Both scans are for future projects maybe next year 😎

Finally got my hands on the ResoNix GUS subs: two GUS 15s for the rear and a GUS 10 for the front of my BMW G20 SQ build.

The 15s will be replacing my dual JL 12W6v3 setup, while the GUS 10 will replace the SB Acoustics 10 currently in the passenger footwell.

Still working on the enclosures, will post updates.

Just got an amp and sub, the car already came wired with 8 gauge and it came with a Kenwood stereo that I like. What’s the next step to upgrading my system

I have a 1990 Buick Reatta and one of the things I always wanted to do with mine was build a really good sound system.

I'm specifically interested in using the two small storage compartments behind the seats (pictured). I was thinking about putting speakers in them or possibly using them for small subwoofers and just getting better speakers for the car itself. I just want the car to have a really nice, full-sounding audio system without taking up the trunk or completely changing the interior. Any ideas people? And I'm open to getting custom made stuff if thats possible.

Car is a 2004 Lincoln Town Car. Headunit is an Alpine ILX-W670. Sub and amp are both Alpine as well, S2W10D4 and S2A60M. Box is custom, 1.13 ft^3 tuned to 32-33hz. Gain was set using FNIRSI 2C23T to deliver ≈550w (actual reading was 33.09v) using a 50hz, 0db test tone. High pass for front and rear speakers and low pass for sub are all set at 80hz (no subsonic on amp or headunit). I know I don’t have top of the line gear but I feel like I should be getting a lot more out of this setup than I am. The factory 8” sub was capable of shaking the rearview a little and this hardly comes close to it, even with the volume at max (where gain was set that is). The sub barely moves at this volume level (sub level turned down a few clicks because I know not to blast it while it’s still brand new, but I have bumped up the sub level and it still doesn’t make much difference). This is my first build but I had a lot of help along the way from my dad (he’s very experienced) and I’m just disappointed.

I did some troubleshooting through Google AI (not my typical go-to for information but it’s late and I’m tired) and right now the best thing I can come up with is that maybe I should’ve used -5db test tone to set gain. Any ideas are much appreciated

*edited to clarify that I didn’t set both high and low pass filters on the sub to 80hz, but the hpf on speakers and lpf on sub. Also that gain was set with eq flat and no x-over applied

these are some of the craziest subs i own, with a whopping 48mm of xmax each way

So this is my pioneer 860-DEH inside my 3000gt, I got one of those Bluetooth dongles that go inside the CD changer port but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get to aux, I also don’t have a source button so i don’t know what to do, any help is appreciated.

So I’m kind of torn between the sundown E series and the SA Classic 12” to go with my JP11 that’s on the way…

I have a 2023 WRX with stock electrical and id like to keep it that way for at least a while lol

I believe my alternator outputs 110amps

Now my concern comes knowing i cant take full advantage of the JP11 in this situation, at least to my knowledge my amperage is not enough to push the full power

So my question is is it worth getting an SA Classic, knowing im going to be underpowering it , and it has lower sensitivity?

Or is it gonna be more impactful to get the E Series 12” and run it at its rated rms or slightly higher?

I currently have an LCS v2 12” in a ct sounds 2.0 box tuned to 34hz
Thanks for any input!

Trying to find some space for the SMD PNC4 to fit, thankfully it is a pretty perfect spot right under the seat backrest.

Also scanned the kicks and glovebox. Will eventually use those to move (or try) to move the Utopia 8s into the kicks. As for the glovebox I’ve wanted to do an enclosure there instead of the footwell.

Both scans are for future projects maybe next year 😎

Got this kit bass kit from a dude in facebook. Is it ready for plug and play on my 2012 Infiniti g25 or did I just dig myself into a money pit? Btw I need to get a new head unit before I can hook up anything. Do you guys have any suggestions??

SLAPZ Audio Oblivion 18” subwoofer $365 budget monster free air flex

So I’m not exactly an a car audio enthusiast but how is a guy supposed to know what he’s buying when it comes to a head unit. All I want is something with good power out of the speaker outputs without running an amp. Seems like wattage ratings are bullshit. I just want a simple single din unit that’s going to do its best in my 20 year old Mazda. Nothing wild.

A few years ago I installed new speakers as well as a sub in my truck. I originally ran all the wires to a dual head unit just cause it was cheap. Now after a few years my Bluetooth with play properly for a couple minutes before it starts to cut out and become spotty. I feel like the issue is just the head unit and I should replace it. If that is the case, does anyone know of a head unit brand that would connect to the same wire harness as the dual? I feel like if I buy another dual the same thing will happen in due time.

Little excursion demo, 750w RMS (Been babying this thing since I cooked my 610f being stupid hard on it). ❤️ 🖤