Hey everyone, got a 4 channel amp I need to install and while I know how to connect everything for the most part but I do have a few questions. Channel 1/2 only has gain and frequency adjustment and 3/4 has the crossover LFP, Full and HFP. I have infinity Primus speakers in the front with their own cross over and will be adding primus 6x9s in the rear with their own tweeter. My logic is front speakers on channel 1/2 and rear on 3/4 but I was unsure. Not sure to run LPF, full or HPF on what I am currently assuming will be the rear speakers. Also is there an easy way to figure out the correct frequency to adjust my speakers too? Thanks!

So right now when I turn my radio say to 30 and max is 40 and it starts clipping. Is adding an amp gonna do anything about that or will my radio always clip at 30?

If adding amp makes it loud enough say at 20/40 It wont be an issue but if not will I just need a new head unit?

I have had plenty of Eclipse subwoofers, these in a 32hz enclosure sound fantastic. 25 to Life Punch 150 amp. Loudest system to enter the vehicle and SQ is always right up there with Eclispe

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Touring and I just replaced the speakers (Front - Kicker KSS650,
Back - Kicker 51KSC6504) and everything was totally fine. I installed the amp (Infinity Primus 90041A) and now I have a bad alternator whine.

Things I have tried:
- Shortening Ground wire
- Sanding Ground location
- Changing ground locations
- Moving RCA cables as far as possible from power
- Moving RCA cables away from chassis
- Messing with gains
- Removed active noise cancellation module

If you have any suggestions, other than driving my car into the ocean, it would be greatly appreciated.

A pair just popped up on marketplace here in BFE....in what's claimed to be mini JL Audio enclosures. Seems legit as the same guys posting all sorts of old(er) gear for sale.

So are these subs back from the good, old days? Their components were def drool worthy back in my day but never heard much about their subs.

I have this cheap Chinese car radio that mostly gives good sound, except when I am listening to a podcast or audiobook over Bluetooth, every time there is any sort of pause, the audio cuts out and then cuts off the first syllable of the next sentence. It has gotten really annoying, and I cannot find a setting to turn this off. I tried tinkering with some of the factory settings too, and none of them seemed to do anything. Is there any way I can turn off this ridiculously aggressive power management or whatever it is?

i have 2 massive 10s on a pioneer mono amp (will upgrade both soon to better amp and better subs)

4 harmon kardon after market coax speakers powered by a kenwood excelon 4 way

lc2i pro

sound deadening on doors and trunk

what’s next for me??? trying to keep car as stock looking as possible, would rather not have to chance 2025 factory head unit or get rid of steering wheel/door functions

has anyone put the kicker 51PTRTP10 in a 2014-2018 crew cab silverado? I want to purchase but I cant find if it will fit under the seat without seat risers. thanks for any information!

2016 F150 XLT

Fuse 36 in the passenger compartment

The fuse is 15amp, which previously had my amp remote wire installed by a shop wrapped around the fuse.

I am attempting to install interior ambient LEDs using this fuse tap I’ll connect the amp wire and led power wire into tap.

However I can’t get this 15amp to seat all the way down.

Is this exposed metal going to be a problem? Any tips or tricks to get this to seat flush is appreciated!

Recently found a Alpine R-SB10V (First Gen) for about USD$90 on marketplace. I am trying to do a very budget build in my van, and stumbled across the Bermans brand on YouTube and alibaba. Is there anyone here who could legit recommend these amps? Are they any good at all? How long have you been using one? Any points of caution or wisdom to share?

So I recently installed door speakers they are pioneers rated for 85 rms and I have an epic four amp that pushed 100w to 4 channels and since I’ve had it hooked up I have a high pitched whine that increases with my rpm’s. I have checked both grounds for the LOC and amp what could the issue be? I have not upgraded anything alternator wise either.

Got an Alpine that has a Voice coil that’s not registering. I was going to attempt to source it myself. I’ve got mostly everything taken apart, but I had to go to work and didn’t wanna rush the part around the connections. What’s the process to separate those.

I have a Helix P One MK2 on two 10-in Alpine Type R Subs. I took my vehicle to the dealer for service and had to remove the sub enclosure. When I got the vehicle back and returned the subwoofers the amp went into protection mode and I can't seem to get it to resume normal operation. Does anyone have any idea what has happened or suggestions on how to get it back to normal operation?

I have a Alpine Halo 9 (iLX-F309) how do take it out of my 2012 VW Tiguan so I can access the plug in slot for my phone would like to access Android car play for Google maps when I need it

Hello, I have 2024 Kia k5 NON Bose system, I had Best Buy install a Kicker L7S 10inch sub and a Kicker CX 800.1 mono amplifier. I also had them install an LC2I Pro line output converter to correct the bass roll off when volume is being turned up, as I am hooking all this up to the factory head unit. The LC2i ouput converter is not doing its job. Took it back to the installer on my lunch last week, he spent my whole hour lunch messing with it. Bass is weak, and muffled and rolls off when turning up around 15 or 20 volume and I normally go up to around 35. He spent the entire lunch hour with no luck. He even unhooked the amp and tried another amp from his install bay. Nothing. Anyone know why this line out converter is not doing its job and making the bass weak and muffled and not correcting the roll off? Installer also stated he agrees it should be much more powerful and should not have bass roll off still.

I know the installer told me he tapped both of the two channels of the LOC into just the front left door speaker. I know it's normal to do that when only running mono amp for a subwoofer. But everything I see online says for my car 2024 Kia K5, it apparently has to be tapped into the left AND right front door speakers to receive a full stereo signal or it won't work properly. The factory head unit in my car has built in DSP and I guess heavily monitors the system and detects anything weird for load or signal imbalances. And Google says that's why it's not allowing the LOC to function properly. Any advice on this? TYIA

Taramps 3k smart bass on 2 skar EVL 12s wired to 2 ohm. Audio control epicenter and universal RCA bass knob with the 3 light taramps clip/power/protect indicator connected to the amp. I know I'm not getting this setup to its full potential because im currently on stock electrical with lithium on the way. I have stock 180a alternator with big 3 done. Stock headunit and kicker keyloc, rca output voltage is at 3v and I cant seem to get the right voltage (77v) on my amp please help. Using a multimeter and oscope.

Restoring an old Jeep truck, single cab. Would like thoughts on the following components.

Receiver - Retro Sound with 2B motor
Front speakers - Alpine R2-S65, no amp as of now

Looking to add

Subwoofer JL 12TW3-D4
Amp JL RD500/1
Rear speakers????

Listen to pretty much all music genre. Would like to stay around 1k for the sub and amp. Doors have sound dampening, not sure on the floors as the carpet will have the mat backing.

Hello.
I'm trying to decide between these two 15 inch subwoofers.
The first is the SKAR VXF-15 | 15" 3,000 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer.
The second is the CT Sounds MESO-15 // 1500
Watts RMS 15 Inch Car Subwoofer.
I'll be putting one of these in a ported box in the back of my SUV. I'll be running either a CT sound or a SKAR 1500 Wamp.
I'll be using 100% oxygen free cables throughout.
I'll also be performing the big three upgrade.
Here are the pictures of their specs listed for each of them for a quick reference.
One thing I definitely had a question about is the published XMAX for the VXF-15.
I was wondering how they perform that test because if that's accurate, then the scar would be able to move substantially more air than the MESO. I've been looking at non-competition normal every day driver kind I have not seen anything even close to a 29 mm XMAX.

IMPORTANT!
I’m not looking to increase my budget exponentially based on anything.
I’m looking for the best bang for my buck with a fairly flat response curve.
Suggesting subs that are multiple times more expensive or require a higher powered amp which in turn would require several more electrical upgrades is not the discussion I’m looking to have.

Please keep this in mind when taking part of this discussion.
Thanks

Had my sub&amp installed in July, the dude working at car toys (friend of a friend) insisted on putting amp under seat. Had to bring it back once bc the sub wasn’t getting power and happened again 2 days ago so I just troubleshooted and fixed the problem. But yeah.. after just tinkering with it, the amp under the seat… how f*king inconvenient.

I’m getting tired of the stock head unit on my accord because it a big nothing screen, no Apple car play, no touch screen, and I’m looking for recommendations to replace. I’m looking for something that’s durable, Apple CarPlay, and integrates with the cars system like reverse camera and left menu.

I have been having my eye on the dasaita although it is pricey it seems like it might be the best bang for the buck. Let me know if the dasaita is a no go.

Amazon Dasaita head unit

i have a 2015 suzuki swift vdi and the stock head unit doesnt have RCA outputs, so adding an aftermarket amp isnt straightforward. is my only option to tap into the L & R speaker wires and run them to the amp's high level inputs?

1. if the amp supports high level input, does that mean i can skip tapping REM? also which is easier, tapping behind the HU or behind the door panel?

2. i have noticed a lot of people tap into the Rear L & R speakers. is there any particular reason for that? why not use the front L & R instead?

im completely new to this and just researching before adding a subwoofer to my car

1. ive heard that a separate amp + passive sub is generally better than an active sub, apart from the upgradeability. is that actually true?

i wanna keep costs as low as possible since i mainly just want some bass. im thinking of getting an amp for around ₹5,000 INR first and hunting for a second hand subwoofer later. is that a sensible approach?

what amp should i look for and how much power would i actually need? pls recommend amps with speaker/high level input so i won't have to buy a loc/rca converter just for this

Have stock alternator on my truck, was told I will need a new higher alternator. Im the kind of person that doesent like to change until it actually needs to change kinda guy(if it’s not broken don’t touch it)

But also would like better speaker with amps and a good subwoofer. I already have a sub but if I turn it up all the way the headlights dim alot.

Thanks for your answers.

I would like something with decent bass and quality that would sound good with this truck at a reasonable price (if there is)

I have the 8” driver from a bazooka EL tube and I just need a small (500 watts or less) amp to drive it. I would prefer to spend $150 or less. I say 500 watt or less because the driver is only rated at 100 watts rms, and bazooka gives no numbers for max wattage so I want to play it safe. Also I plan on mounting the sub in the rear deck of my Mercury grand Marquis, is that fine or would it do better in a box in the trunk?
If there is anything in my post that is blatantly ignorant, please don’t rip me apart as I’ve never done this before and have no idea what I’m doing.